Townsville

5 October 2023

We reluctantly packed up and left Kurrimine Beach early so that we would have some time to linger a little longer on the way back to Townsville. We had to meet the real estate agent at 1:00pm so kept an eye on the time as we travelled.

Our first stop was a detour into Mission Beach – another long-time favourite place. We walked on the beach and found a coffee shop for morning tea. From there we continued back to the highway and south through Cardwell, stopping at the Hinchinbrook Channel Lookout. We made it to Frances Creek Rest Area, just south of Ingham in time for a quick lunch and then it was back to Townsville – and home for the time being. We’ll be “house bound” for a while, but can’t wait to get out and start filling in some of the gaps on the map.

So..some stats –

• We travelled over 40 00 kilometres
• We were away from Townsville for almost 2 years
• We drove on 6 iconic roads - Strzelecki Track, Oodnadatta Track, Mereenie Loop, Gibb River Road, Kalumburu Road / Mitchell Plateau Track, Birdsville Track, Nullarbor
• We camped in caravan parks, national parks, conservation parks and reserves, free camps, pubs, community campgrounds, roadhouses, rest areas, showgrounds and on a friend’s property
• We spent 6 nights at sea – crossing from Victoria to Tasmania and back 6 times
• We stayed a total of 60 nights in 22 different National Park Campgrounds
• We camped by rivers, lakes, beaches and gorges; in forests, mallee, mulga, desert, savanna; in towns, cities and in the bush
• We stayed in cabins, cottages, houses and units in 14 different locations
• We spent time is all states –
• Qld – 31 nights
• NSW – 5 nights        
• Victoria – 73 nights 
• Tasmania – 295 nights
• South Australia – 97 nights
• Northern Territory – 90 nights
• Western Australia – 120 nights
• Mick went on 4 pelagic boat trips and 5 other bird tours
• Together we went on 5 tours – Murray River Sunset Cruise (Waikerie), Lake Argyle Sunset Cruise, Dinosaur Adventures (Broome), Yellow Water Cruise (Kakadu), Danggu Geikie Gorge Boat Tour (Fitzroy Crossing) 

This map shows all the
major trips we have done since 2014

Kurrimine Beach

4 – 5 October 2023

We left Cairns and headed south towards Kurrimine Beach. Because it’s a relatively short drive we decided to detour via Etty Bay, just south of Innisfail. Cassowaries are often seen near the beach at Etty Bay and we were hoping to add to our bird list for the trip. We drove down to the beach and made morning tea – all the while hoping for one of these magnificent, huge birds to come wandering along. Unfortunately there were none around that day.

We jumped back in the car to return to the highway and were very surprised and pleased to see a cassowary wandering along the edge of the road a few kilometres away from the beach, adjacent to some rainforest. We did get a good look but by the time we were able to turn the car (and camper trailer) around, it had disappeared into the bush. At least we were able to add it to the list.

We moved on to Kurrimine Beach and arrived at lunch time. The caravan park was fairly full even though it was late in the tourist season and we ended up in a spot near the road with little shade. It wouldn’t matter for one night but we were glad we weren’t staying longer. During the afternoon we went for a walk along the beach – always a favourite activity – and observed heaps of coral spawn washed up. Coral spawning occurs once a year after a full moon, generally in October or November and when sea temperatures are right. It appears there may be some healthy reef in this part of the Great Barrier Reef.

It has become our habit to go out for dinner on the final night of our long trips so we had chosen to stay at King Reef Resort and Caravan Park, which just happens to have a very nice on-site pub bistro. We sat outside to enjoy the view and were entertained by some of the local curlews who wandered around the tables.

We left early the next morning for the final leg of our almost two year journey – returning to Townsville to make a new home (for now at least).

Cairns

30 September – 4 October 2023

It’s a relatively short drive from Yungaburra to Cairns so we stopped in Kuranda for a look around and a coffee. Towing the trailer makes parking a challenge but there are a number of long vehicle parking bays one street back from the main street. We were early so found one easily. Disappointingly, when we returned later, every other spot was taken by a single vehicle.

We drove down the Kuranda Range and arrived at the caravan park in time to set up and have lunch. This park allows check-ins for powered sites from 11:00 am – very convenient and helpful. We had stayed at this one before and chose it again as it is on a creek, has lots of shady trees and a lovely pool.

Mick had a number of things on his Cairns wish list so we had a fairly full schedule planned, most of it involving photographs of birds. We started with a drive to the mouth of the Barron River at Machan’s Beach. The tide was out quite a long way so Mick had a bit of a walk to get close to the birds there.

On Sunday morning we headed into The Esplanade – always a favourite spot and usually a great place to photograph birds, if the tide is right. It wasn’t, but we had a good morning visiting Rusty’s Market, walking along The Esplanade and having an ice cream. We also did some grocery shopping while we were in town. Later in the afternoon we walked along the creek out of the caravan park and into Goomboora Park. This lovely, “rainforesty” park was being well used by locals to fish, walk, exercise dogs, cycle and play.

On Monday morning we set off early to Catanna Wetlands. Once part of a cane farm, and sand quarry, this environmental park has been rehabilitated into a fabulous network of walking tracks and wetlands, with a number of viewing platforms, bird hides, seats and BBQ areas. We spent a few hours spotting birds and enjoying the surroundings. Later in the day we visited the Cairns Botanical Gardens but the sandflies were biting so we didn’t stay long. After the Botanic Gardens we returned to the Esplanade where Mick met up with some fellow birders – including one he had met on a Pelagic out of Eaglehawk Neck. As always the locals were very generous with their information and shared photos of a rare sighting – a laughing gull. Despite everyone’s best efforts it wasn’t seen again – but they did have lots of photos to prove it had been there.

On Tuesday morning we made another early start – this time to the Mangrove Boardwalk near the airport. We knew from past experience to expect sandflies there so we were well prepared with long pants and shirts, as well as heavy duty insect repellent. Even so they managed to find those exposed parts of the body that hadn’t been smothered in spray. It was still a great walk along the boardwalks above the mangroves. Late in the day, we went back to the Esplanade – again – just in case the Laughing Gull returned. It hadn’t, but it was a nice afternoon there anyway.

We had one more night before returning to Townsville so decided Kurrimine Beach would do us nicely, so that’s where we headed when we left Cairns.

Yungaburra - Lake Tinaroo

27 – 30 September 2023

We had never stayed at the caravan park on the lake at Yungaburra and were pleasantly surprised by the warm welcome, even though it was well before usual check-in time. We were also allocated a site just as requested – not too far from the amenities. To top it off the site had a view of the lake in two directions.

We went for a couple of walks down by the lake and enjoyed some lovely weather while we were there. It was busy with families but we had a site on the end of a row, the amenities and camp kitchen, so didn’t feel hemmed in. There was a long weekend coming up and the park started to fill up on Friday afternoon.

While we were on the Tablelands we took the opportunity to catch up with friends who live in Mareeba. Bill and Kerry drove over to have lunch with us at a very nice restaurant in Yungaburra. We hadn’t seen them since we left North Queensland two years ago, so had lots of stories to share. Bill took Mick out for a paddle on the lake early one morning – a new experience for Mick. We also visited our favourite Lakes – Eacham and Barrine and went for a short walk at each. It was late in the day when we went to Lake Barrine this time and there was plenty of parking.

We still had at least a week before we had to be back in Townsville so we decided on a few days in Cairns before heading south again.

Granite Gorge

25 – 27 September 2023

We stopped for lunch in Mareeba, at the park near the Visitor Information Centre then set off for Granite Gorge. I set the GPS for our destination even though we were fairly confident we knew which way to go, and hadn’t travelled far when we realised that, once again, the “crazy woman” was leading us astray. We backtracked and found the correct turn-off.

We checked in and chose our powered site and then the real trouble began. We had packed up in between showers and the canvas was still very wet – and that had led to quite a bit of water getting inside the camper. The mattress and bedding was quite wet around the edges. In the past we have been able to dry things off easily by lifting the mattress slightly and directing the fan onto it but this was much worse than anything we had experienced before. I drove back into Mareeba to buy a larger fan, and also a hair dryer.

Back at the camp we pulled the mattress out of the trailer, set it on the table in the sun and used the new (small and very cheap) hairdryer to dry it out. It took a while, but it worked. We didn’t use the fan so we returned it on our way out of Mareeba a couple of days later.

We had a quiet evening after quite an energetic afternoon. Granite Gorge is home to a unique marsupial – the Mareeba Rock Wallaby so in the morning we walked down to the part of the gorge where they can be seen easily and fed – if you buy the feed at the reception. Mick spent a bit of time wandering the grounds photographing birds, and we also went for a walk along the creek that runs beside the unpowered camping area. It was school holidays and there were lots of families visiting.

We thought we might stay for three nights but decided that two would be enough so we booked a site at Yungaburra for the next few nights and moved on.

Malanda

22 – 25 September 2023

We stopped for a late lunch at the rest area at Forty Mile Scrub and then continued on to Mount Garnet. We pulled into the caravan park, but despite the glowing reviews, we found it underwhelming, so continued on to Ravenshoe.

The community run caravan Park in Ravenshoe looked really nice, but it was full and there were only spots in an unshaded paddock. Because it was still quite early we decided to go to Malanda. We’d stayed there a number of times before and knew it would be a good spot. Being a Friday, and school holidays, we called ahead and were told there was a spot available.

When we arrived we were actually given a choice of several spots and we chose the one in the corner of the park near the falls, backing on to the rainforest. As we sat having a Friday drink we caught sight of something moving at the back of our camp. To our delight we realised it was a couple of Lumholtz Tree Kangaroos! Mother and baby skirted the edge of the trees, then climbed one where we could watch them for a few minutes. This was a truly special experience.

On Saturday morning we drove over to Yungaburra – as luck would have it we had arrived on markets weekend. First we went for a walk along Petersen’s Creek and down to Frawley’s Pool. This tranquil spot is named for a local school teacher who taught children to swim there in the 1950’s. We then walked back along the creek and across the suspension bridge – looking for birds the whole time.

From there we went to the famous Yungaburra Markets. Always busy, and with lots of local produce, food and handicrafts, we enjoyed wandering around. We bought a few things then went back to Malanda for lunch. There was some rain in the afternoon and more forecast for the coming days, but nothing too drastic – so we thought.

On Sunday we drove over to one of Mick’s favourite spots – Hastie’s Swamp, near Atherton. The two level bird hide allows good views of the swamp where there were many different varieties including heaps of Magpie Geese. Once again we headed home for lunch and then a drive to Lake Eacham in the afternoon. It was a beautiful day so we also had a walk to the Malanda Falls – adjacent to the caravan park.

Unfortunately the rain started in earnest during the night and by morning we had a significant amount of muddy puddles to contend with. The original forecast that had indicated “0 – 6mm” of rain, had been revised twice and was now showing “0 – 15mm” so we had to decide whether to stay and wait it out, or move to a drier location. More rain was forecast for the next 5 days so we chose to move on. Packing up in the wet is never fun, and we had the added complication of the sticky red mud. Thankfully the rain had stopped briefly so at least we weren’t wet. We managed to get everything done and reluctantly left Malanda bound for Mareeba, on the dry end of the Tablelands.

We visited Platypus Park near Atherton looking for birds, and hoping for a coffee, but the café was closed. Devonshire Tea at Lake Barrine was our next choice, but with no designated long vehicle parking, and the parking area full we drove back in to Yungaburra where we enjoyed a very late morning tea at one of the cafes there.

Back on the road and we stopped at “The Humpy” at Tolga for some fresh fruit and veggies, as well as some treats, then continued on to Mareeba.

Hughenden

21 – 22 September 2023

Leaving Boulia early we discussed our plans and both agreed to scrap the next part of the trip due to the weather. We would forego Opalton and birding near Lark Quarry, in exchange for some time on the Atherton Tablelands and along the Tropical North Queensland Coast. We both felt this was a fair and sensible swap, and that we could come “out west” during Autumn.

We made a number of birding stops, including at the old Hamilton Hotel historic site and had morning tea at Middleton before continuing on to Winton. We met up with friends Wendy and Jay who had a rare couple of hours off, so we joined them for lunch at the café in the Waltzing Matilda Visitor Centre.

After a quick round of the grocery store, we hit the road again with the plan being to stay the night in Hughenden, before moving on the Atherton Tablelands. It was still in the high 30’s when we arrived in Hughenden so we sat in the very well-appointed camp kitchen before setting up our overnight camp.

We had no need to be up so early, but we still managed to get packed up, buy groceries, meat and fuel and be on the road before 9:00am. We planned to drive to Mount Garnet, along the Kennedy Development Road, just because we’d never been that way before.  We called in to the Porcupine Gorge Lookout along the way. We had thought about camping at the gorge but with the heat it wouldn’t have been pleasant, and way too hot to walk down into the gorge.

Boulia

20 -21 September 2023

Leaving Bedourie and heading north, once again we made a few stops to photograph birds. Mick spotted some likely habitat and his assessment was spot on. He managed to get some photos that he was reasonably happy with, given the harsh conditions in the middle of the day.

We stopped for lunch at a rest area and then drove in to one of the campgrounds near the Georgina River where we had thought we might stay. We found birding friend Paula camped there but decided to keep moving on – the high temperatures were having us causing us to seriously rethink our plans. With the kite photo “in the bag”, Mick was satisfied with his efforts so we pushed on to Boulia.

We bought some groceries and fuelled up before heading to the caravan park to try to find a shady spot. There wasn’t much to choose from, but it was quite late in the day so we managed with some dappled shade until the sun started to go down. We planned an early start so we could visit friends in Winton, so set the alarm for 5:30am.

Up before the sun, we were breakfasted and packed up, and on the road as the sun started to rise. Hope we didn’t make too much noise and disturb the neighbours.

Bedourie

18 – 20 September 2023

We moved on from Cuttaburra Crossing, travelling north to Bedourie. As with all our journeys there were a few stops to try to photograph birds, including the Flock bronzewings south of King Creek. This time Mick was able to get a couple of shots even though it was the middle of the day and the light was very harsh.

Along the way we stopped at another Eyre Creek crossing - this one on Glengyle Station - that was teeming with birds. We weren't the only ones who stood in the middle of the bridge with cameras trained on the creek.

We continued on to Bedourie and set up at the council run campground. Once we were settled and had finished lunch we wandered up to the Visitor Information Centre to pay our camp fees. We also obtained a swipe card to access the swimming pool and artesian spa.

Once again the temperature reached the high 30’s and we felt a swim would be beneficial. We walked next door to the pool and were pleasantly surprised to find a large swimming pool, with a shade structure overhead, and a smaller artesian pool. We found the artesian water a bit too hot, but we did spend quite a bit of time in the swimming pool, floating around on the pool noodles that are thoughtfully provided. We were the only ones there on the first visit, and on each subsequent visit, there were only a couple of others enjoying the water. It was a fabulous way to spend some time, and to escape the heat. Access is $10 for up to four people, and is valid for as long as you are staying in Bedourie. What a great facility! Bedourie is a well maintained, very small town which is well worth a visit.

We ended up staying for two nights so Mick could revisit the creek and other birdy spots – and the proximity to the pool made it an easy decision. After a final morning at the creek, we packed up again and moved on towards Boulia. Mick was hoping to catch sight of the Letter-wing kite along the way, and we had a potential camp spot picked out.

Cuttaburra Crossing

16 – 18 September 2023

We left Birdsville with the plan to spend a night or two at Cuttaburra Crossing. Lots of people had told us about what a great place it is and we wanted to see for ourselves. We arrived before lunch time and drove straight into what looked like a good camp spot right on the water. After walking around the area for a bit we decided we had found the best spot – absolute water views, some shade, easy access to sun for solar and not too far from the toilets.

                                       

Sitting watching the birdlife on and around the water held our attention throughout the afternoon. It definitely lived up to the expectations and Mick was like a pig in mud trying to get photos of the goings on. As an unexpected bonus the flies were nowhere near as bad as other places we had camped over the last few weeks – but there were millions of bugs at night attracted to the light. I guess you can’t have everything perfect.

Mick was up early to go down to the water near the road to look for Flock bronzewings but without success. We decided to stay a second night with a plan to have dinner early – before the bugs came out to play. It was another spectacular day on the water and even though it was very hot – 37° - we had shade in the afternoon and the entertainment helped to pass the time. As planned, we ate early and had drinks with fellow birder Paula.

If it hadn’t been so hot, we may have stayed another couple of days, but we decided to move on so packed up and headed to Bedourie.

Birdsville

13 – 16 September 2023

We left the campground and headed north again, towards Birdsville. This would be our first time in Queensland since leaving home in October 2021. Entering Queensland from South Australia would also mean another change of time zones. We arrived and were set up in the caravan park in time for lunch. Mick had been to Birdsville previously for work but this would be my first visit. Our arrival coincided with some very high forecast temperatures – mid 30’s – and we found the sudden increase a bit challenging after so long in cooler climates. We knew this would be the start of lots of hot weather and we would eventually get used to it.

We spent the afternoon quietly at the caravan park trying to escape the heat and catching up on the small mountain of washing we had accumulated. The caravan park is well set out and is just across the road from the roadhouse which doubles as the grocery store. The pub is a short walk around the corner, as is the Visitor Information Centre and Bakery, the coffee shop is only two blocks away.

After a number of very early mornings we decided to have a slower, later start to our first full day in Birdsville. After breakfast we walked down to the river at the back of the caravan park and along to the Visitor Information Centre. The centre is very well set up and was hosting an exhibition about the local area. The staff were happy to answer our questions and talk about the local attractions.

Of course there had to be some birding involved in this visit so on our second day in Birdsville we took an early morning drive the 14 kilometres out to the Waddi Trees. These ancient trees are only found in three places in Australia and Mick had been given information about some likely bird sightings there. The heat and harsh light meant that there was only a couple of hours in the early morning suitable for photography so we didn’t spend too long there. Back into town and we went for a drive to a Burke and Wills location – another tree bearing their blaze. We also had a look at the local swimming spot but unfortunately the water looked quite muddy and it was way too cold to do any more than dip your toes in.

One of the major attractions in Birdsville is the “Big Red” sand dune. We figured we should at least go out for a look, and the 35 kilometre drive in the air conditioned car would at least provide some relief from the heat. Most people take the challenge of driving to the top, but we decided against it. We were happy just to get there for a look and to take a couple of photos. No need to push the vehicle just to say we’d done it.

Arriving back into town, we decided there was another “must do” activity for us – a beer at the Birdsville Hotel. The cold beer and air conditioning was sorely needed and very much appreciated. We walked back to camp and had a couple more drinks with birding friend Paula who was also staying there.

Mick decided he needed one more session at the Waddi Trees before we left so he headed out early while I started to pack up the camp. He was back in plenty of time to finish packing and leave well before the 10:00 am check-out time. We had to fuel up and re-inflate the tyres as we would be travelling on bitumen for most of the rest of our journey. We called in to the café for a coffee before hitting the road and ended up staying quite a while chatting with the owner who is also a keen photographer. She told us stories of going out on country with her father, and the expeditions she has taken with anthropologists, archaeologists, geologists and other academics, visiting and documenting significant sites. One day she hopes to use her developing photography skills to share her cultural knowledge. It was fantastic how a simple cup of coffee lead to such an interesting conversation.

Back on the road and we continued north towards Bedourie.

Birdsville Track - Tippipila Bush Campground – Clifton Hills Station

 12 – 13 September 2023

We continued our journey north along the Birdsville Track and made our lunch stop at Kilanbar Bore. Unfortunately the flies were out in force so it was a quick lunch in the car again. Back on the road and we found the campground and drove a little further on to locate the start of the Birdsville Inside Track where Mick would explore in the morning. The Inside Track has been closed for about 5 years due to repeated flood inundation and there is no sign indicating its location.

We returned to the campground which was once again a big open area with a couple of toilets and nothing else. We found a spot near some scrub and set up so that we could escape the flies. Once again dinner had to wait until after dark. There were only two others camped here, but a large group of vehicles camped across the other side of the road.

Mick went out very early to drive 14 kilometres along the Birdsville Inside Track to Goyder Lagoon. Even though the road is officially closed because it is not possible to get through to Birdsville, it is in reasonably good condition as far as the lagoon that Mick wanted to visit. He was home much earlier than I had expected, but very pleased that his mission to photograph the Grey grasswren had been successful.

With that one in the bag there was no need to hang around so we set off on the final leg to Birdsville.

Birdsville Track - Mungerannie Hotel Campground

7 – 12 September 2023

We had arranged to catch up with a birding friend at Mungerannie so we continued north along the Birdsville Track. We had a quick lunch in the car at Cooper Creek Camp, which looked like a good place to stop but the wind had us continuing on. The wind was still way too strong when we arrived at Mungerannie so we took a room for the night – a bit of a luxury, but we had always planned to do that from time to time.

Later in the day we met up with Paula and enjoyed dinner and a couple of drinks together. In the morning the wind had dropped quite a bit, and we were able to snag probably the best campsite in the whole place. The campground is just a big open area that backs onto some scrub which borders a wetland. There is very little shade for most of the day, but we found a spot that backed onto the scrub, with a small stand of vegetation in front. We were able to get some shade and were also quite private from the rest of the campground. Sometimes it pays to be early.

We ended up camping for four nights while Mick went out chasing birds. He went out with Paula a couple of times, by himself a few times, and I joined him on one early morning excursion up the Kalamurina Road onto Cowarie Station. He had some moderate success and was generally happy with his photos, but disappointed not to get the Grey falcon that everyone else seemed to have been able to photograph.

We had one mishap while we were at Mungerannie – one of the gas bottles ran out just as we finished cooking dinner and when Mick connected the other to heat water for washing up, it started to leak. It looked like a problem with the valve. We carry a Jetboil for roadside morning tea stops so used that and considered our options. We were due to leave in the morning but had also thought about staying another day. With only the Jetboil we wouldn’t be able to cook so we had to think carefully. After an early start to go out to Cowarie we decided to stay at Mungerannie another night and have lunch at the pub, and cold meat and salad wraps for dinner.

We enjoyed hearty burgers and chips for lunch and paid for another night’s camping. When we returned to camp Mick decided to have a closer look at the gas bottle. It turned out all it needed was a new “o” ring. Crisis averted. Mick chatted to some other birders and received some information about stops on our trip further north. He went out early on our final night while I did some initial packing up of the camp. We were back on the road again by mid-morning.

Birdsville Track - Clayton Station Wetlands

 5 – 7 September 2023

We drove north from Merna Mora and stopped at Leigh Creek for some last minute supplies, and then drove on to the park in Copley to check a few things online while we still had service. We had pies for lunch from the bakery which is also part of the caravan park. From there we continued north and refuelled in Lyndhurst before continuing on to Marree.

Marree is the starting point for both the Oodnadatta and Birdsville Tracks so we had a quick look around – there’s not much more than a pub and servo – before making our way to the start of the Birdsville Track. We had a couple of possible places to camp so were able to keep our options open.

We decided to make Clayton Station Wetlands our first camp on the track. This is a station stay with toilets, showers and a bore pool. Payment is via an honesty box as the campground is a long way from the station homestead. There were quite a few people already there when we arrived, and very little shade. We really wanted to be close to the wetland but the ground was very uneven and not suitable for our set-up, so we chose a spot that would give easy access to both the wetland and amenities.

We went for walk and Mick found the birding to be quite promising with the only downside being the huge number of flies – far more than we had been used to for quite some time, if ever. During the night the wind picked up and we had to make a decision about whether to spend another night and hope it would ease the next day. We chose to stay and it was a great spot once everyone else had left.

Mick spent a fair bit of time walking around taking photos of birds, while I escaped the flies by reading inside the tent. Dinner had to be cooked and eaten after dark, and we worked out a way to have a fly-free lunch inside too. Fortunately breakfast wasn’t a problem as long as we were up early.

The second night was as windy as the first so we made the decision to move on – it was just too unpleasant to stay, so after Mick had been out birding, we set off again.

Merna Mora Station

4 – 5 September 2023

We had planned to have a big drive from Whyalla to get us close to the Birdsville Track but the sleepless night we had both endured had us rethinking our plan. We left Whyalla and refuelled in Port Augusta before continuing on to Quorn for morning tea and then Hawker for lunch. We had a look at our options, and noting that the strong winds would be around for another day, we decided to look for somewhere where we could get a powered site as cooking outside on gas in strong winds in near on impossible. We settled on Merna Mora Station, partly because we had never been there before, and partly because it wasn’t too far away.

We phoned the station while we were in Hawker, then drove the 43 kilometres along The Flinders Ranges Way. Merna Mora is just one of many station stays in the Flinders Ranges and is well set up for visitors.

Once we had settled onto our site we noticed the neighbours – another couple we had met at Mount Ive. It certainly is a small world. They had told us they were going to Rawnsley Park – another station stay – but couldn’t get in until later in the week so had chosen Merna Mora to spend the time waiting.

We spent a quiet afternoon and evening at camp, and went for a short walk up the hill to a lookout point just on dusk. The views around Ikara-Flinders Ranges are something to be seen. It’s a really beautiful landscape.

In the morning we went for a walk to the dry creek bed looking for birds but there wasn’t much around. We packed up and headed off hoping to be on the Birdsville Track later in the day.

Whyalla

2 – 4 September 2023

We went back in to Kimba for lunch as it was almost noon when we left Lake Gilles, and we couldn’t see anywhere suitable on the map, along the way to stop for a picnic. We found a lovely picnic area at the Kimba Lions Park than decided to take a short cut to Whyalla, not realising that it would be mostly on unsealed roads. It’s always fun to get off the highway and try a different road, and this one started off great, but deteriorated significantly as we drove along.

Arriving in Whyalla, and aware that the forecast for the following day was for very strong winds, we decided to stay at the caravan park just out of town rather than the one on the foreshore. We were given a good spot and settled in. Late in the afternoon we drove out to Wild Dog Hill at Whyalla Conservation Park, another birdy spot Mick had been told about. No luck with the birds, but a nice enough place to visit.

The wind picked up a bit overnight and in the morning we drove down to the foreshore for a look around. We walked along the boardwalk to the very impressive circular jetty. This looks to be fairy new, and is obviously popular. We walked right out to the end which has become a bit of a habit when we see a jetty somewhere in our travels. 

After a visit to the supermarket we returned to camp as the wind continued to increase. We retreated to the small camp kitchen to make lunch and spent the afternoon sheltering from the wind inside the camper trailer. The wind dropped a little later in the afternoon so we were able to sit outside for drinks and to make dinner but it soon picked up again.

Overnight the wind continued to howl and we had a very sleepless night. In the morning I checked the Bureau of Meteorology app and discovered that wind gusts of up to 69kph had been recorded. No wonder it was so noisy inside the camper. Fortunately it had dropped again as we packed up ready to move on, again not too sure where we would end up.

Lake Gilles Campground

1 – 2 September 2023

We had visited Lake Gilles on a previous trip but had not camped there so were looking forward to a night in a quiet camp by the salt lake. On the way in we looked for a track that Mick had been told would lead to a possible spot to photograph a Copper-back quail-thrush. We didn’t go down the track with the trailer but continued on to the campground. At that stage we were the only ones there so we had the pick of the spots. We chose one with a fire pit, and adjacent to a track to the lake.

We set up so that we were facing the firepit which we planned to use as a cold night was expected. We had brought what was left of the firewood that we had been gifted at Mount Ive. We went for a walk along the shore of the lake – this one had no water but was very boggy near the edge suggesting it had been full of water not so long ago.

On returning to camp we noticed another vehicle approaching and realised it was some bird photographers we had met at Mount Ive. We hadn’t expected to see them again as they had been heading west, but here they were. After an early dinner, Tony and Julia joined us for a few drinks by the fire, sharing birding stories.

The night turned out to be much colder than expected and when Mick set off early to the special spot, he noted the “outside temperature” indicator in the car read 1°. No wonder we were cold overnight. He returned to camp not long after because he couldn’t find the spot so I jumped in the car and between us we found it – and he photographed the bird. After breakfast he spent another short session at another spot – success again – and returned to camp for morning tea, then to pack up. We chatted with Tony and Julia before heading back in to Kimba for lunch, then on to Whyalla.

Mount Ive Station

29 August – 1 September 2023

Mt Ive Station is very well set up for visitors with accommodation and camping, including powered sites. With a few more cold nights ahead of us, we booked onto a powered site for three nights and settled in for the afternoon. They also have a bar which opens at 5:00pm so we wandered up and sat around the fire with some fellow travellers, then Mick met up with some birders and chatted with them over a few drinks.

The following morning Mick set off very early on one of the 4WD tracks, with another birder, looking for the grasswren known to be on the property. Unfortunately, despite their best efforts, they were not successful. We went out the following morning to a couple of other likely spots, but again were not successful. Mick tried in the afternoon and again the morning we were leaving, but he had no luck – looks like we’ll have to come back to Mount Ive another time.

  

Mount Ive has a number of 4WD tracks as well as access to Lake Gairdner, another one of South Australia’s famous salt lakes. We paid for the permit and obtained the key so we could drive out to the lake one afternoon. Of course we stopped along the way to take a few bird photos before arriving at the lake only to find that it was full of water! Just as well we went for the drive and not to marvel at the enormous expanse of salt.

Leaving Mt Ive we decided to go via Kimba and on to Lake Gilles – another potential birdy spot. We set off and tried to find our way using a combination of Google Maps and the GPS, which didn’t always agree. We had misplaced the paper map of South Australia so were a bit unsure when the GPS suggested a road that wasn’t signposted as heading for Kimba, but later we realised we should have gone that way instead of the much longer road we had taken. Along the way we saw three dead wombats – I’m not sure if that indicates there are lots in the area or if they are dwindling in numbers. We’ll never know.

Once we made it to Kimba, we stopped to pick up some fresh food and to refuel before continuing on to Lake Gilles.

Port Augusta

26 – 29 August 2023

After 5 fabulous nights at Gluepot Reserve we drove out through Morgan, where we had lunch. From there we drove on towards Burra so we could stop in to the Red Banks Conservation Park. It would have been nice to camp there but after 5 nights in the bush without a shower we really needed to get to a caravan park. We stopped in the day use area “the oval” and Mick spent a bit of time looking for birds. Reluctantly we moved on, still not sure where we would end up. We decided to drive through Laura, looking for suitable caravan parks along the way. We didn’t find anything that appealed so while we were at Laura we phoned ahead to book into the park in Port Augusta where we always stay.

As usual, we spent a day washing, shopping and doing general maintenance at camp, and on the other day we headed out early to Arid Lands Botanic Gardens. The gardens were looking particularly lush and there were so many plants blossoming. We wandered around for a couple of hours before having a delicious morning tea at the onsite café. We then finished our “town” chores and repacked ready to travel into a more remote location.

Mick had heard about the birding at Mount Ive Station and had been keen for some time to get there so we added it to the itinerary for this leg of the trip. We had arranged to meet birding friend, Paula, on the Birdsville Track in a couple of weeks’ time so were able to fit in a visit to this spot in the Gawler Ranges.

We left Port Augusta and drove to Iron Knob where we had a quick look around what was left of the town and then turned off the highway for the two hour drive on the unsealed road to Mt Ive. The road condition wasn’t great to start with but improved as we went along. 

We knew we wouldn’t make it in time for lunch and, as luck would have it, we reached the only picnic spot along the road just on noon. The marker indicated it as “Edward John Eyre Camp 6 Site” and consisted of a small drive through parking bay and a picnic table. Not much, and given the wind was howling, it was sufficient for a quick chicken and salad wrap, then back on our way.

Gluepot Reserve – Babbler Campground

 21 – 26 August 2023

After a couple of very pleasant and relaxing days at Lake Bonney, we set off for another one of our favourite places – Gluepot Reserve in the South Australian Riverland. We stopped in Waikerie to pick up a parcel at the Post Office and to do some more shopping. We then crossed the Murray River on the ferry and drove on to Gluepot.

Gluepot is a protected area and the largest block of intact mallee in Australia – and it is well known as a fabulous spot for birding. This would be our fourth visit. We stopped at the visitor centre to check in and also to have our lunch, then made our way to Babbler Campground. There had been reports of Scarlet-chested parrots in a location not too far from Babbler so it seemed the logical choice.

In the late afternoon one of the volunteer rangers called in and told us that we were the only ones camping in the whole reserve – there was no-one in either of the other two campgrounds. This didn’t last as over the following days a number of other campers arrived. The beauty of Gluepot is that the vast majority of visitors are birders – it’s too remote for caravanners looking for a cheap place to stay.

I went out with Mick a couple of times looking for the parrots, as well as to walk the Mallee Fowl Walk one morning. We actually did see a Mallee fowl not far off the track, but it didn’t stick around long enough to have its photo taken. We went out for a drive just on dark one night looking for Spotted nightjars but were not successful. Mick went out birding each morning and afternoon and processed photos during the middle of the day. I caught up on some reading and enjoyed relaxing and pottering around the camp.

Because there were a number of birders at the camp, much information was shared – not just about Gluepot. It was while we were there that we made up our minds that we would definitely go to another good birding spot – Mount Ive Station – even though it was a bit out of the way.

We had initially booked in for three nights but ended up staying for five. We could perhaps have stayed longer but had run out of drinking water so had to move on. Maybe next time we’ll allow a week. Even though the nights were cold – and fires are not permitted – the days were pleasantly cool and there was not a drop of rain while we were there.

Before leaving the reserve we called in to the ranger station and to check on another camper who had been having tyre trouble on his rented car, and to pay for our extra nights. We let Rob know that we would be spending about ½ hour at one of the hides before heading back to the main road so would be behind him if he needed help along the way. After the session at the hide – where we met up with another of the camper/birders we drove back towards Waikerie without seeing Rob. Knowing he had made it that far we presumed he had been able to get all the way to Waikerie where the two tyres could be fixed. I guess we will never know for sure.

Instead of returning to Waikerie we headed towards Morgan where we stopped to buy fresh bread and we discovered the local church market where I purchased a couple of books – just in the nick of time as I only had one left in my stash waiting to be read. We drove down to the riverside park to air up the tyres and have some lunch. While checking our location on WikiCamps, we discovered we were sitting near the Old Historic Morgue! It was located on the river so the deceased could be transported by steamer from outlying areas, for burial at the local cemetery.

Lake Bonney

 19 – 21 August 2023

We left Bendigo on yet another very cold morning and stopped for coffee in Bridgewater where we considered our options. We consulted the weather forecast and decided that after several nights of sub-zero temperatures we would take a cabin for a couple of nights. We wanted to get as close to Waikerie, and Gluepot Reserve, as possible so we booked ahead to Lake Bonney, at Barmera. We figured we could handle a big day’s drive knowing that we had a place for the night organised.

We stopped and had lunch in a park at Nullawil, just one of many towns with fantsatic "silo art", and continued on towards Mildura. We turned off before Red Cliffs and drove along a minor road before rejoining the highway near Lake Cullulleraine.

We continued on towards South Australian but before reaching the border we stopped at the quarantine bins and deposited an avocado and what was left of a soggy cucumber. We hadn’t given much thought to quarantine when we left Bendigo as we hadn’t initially planned on travelling across state lines. We continued on to the quarantine check point where the car and fridge were inspected, before driving on to Barmera in the South Australian Riverland.

We had called ahead to make sure that our camper trailer could be accommodated near the cabin and were pleased to be offered an empty site in front. Our cabin had views to the lake even though we were a few “streets” back.

We took advantage of the space and comfort and cooked a big pot of bolognaise sauce to go into the freezer. We also shopped and Mick spent a lot of time going through the photos he had taken in and around Bendigo. We walked by the lake and enjoyed having water views for a couple of days.

Bendigo

14 – 19 August 2023

Once we had settled into camp for the first time since April, and after giving the trailer a thorough clean to remove some mould that had appeared, we set about enjoying our time in Bendigo. We visited the Greater Bendigo National Park a couple of times in search of the Purple-gaped honeyeater – again successfully. We also returned to Bell’s Swamp and Castlemaine Botanic Gardens for the possibility of better photos.

On Wednesday we were joined by John and Judy, Townsville friends who have been “grey nomads” for a couple of years. We last saw them in Mount Compass in November 2022. Once again we enjoyed a couple of great days with them. Unfortunately the weather was awful – daytime temperatures in the low teens and an overnight low of -3.9! Definitely not the best weather to be camping in. We had booked to stay for three nights in Bendigo but extended for two more when rain was forecast. We didn’t want to have to pack up wet, especially when it was so cold, and we were happy with our ensuite site, so staying on was the logical thing to do.

This was around the time we were getting up. 

Apart from birding and socialising we restocked the fridge, freezer and pantry ready for the next part of our journey. We visited the Bendigo Pottery Centre where we saw there are a number of artisans as a well as the well-known local pottery. It was an interesting way to spend an hour or so.

Eventually we had to move on and were lucky to have a nice sunny morning to pack up. We weren’t sure where we would end up, but decided to set the GPS for Waikerie (on the way to Gluepot) and decide where we would stop once we were on our way.

The Final Leg – Devonport to Geelong

 Spirit of Tasmania – Devonport to Geelong

13 – 14 August 2023

After way more time in Tasmania than we had originally planned we had the latest renovation at a point where we were ready to leave and head north. We had spent almost the whole of winter in Tassie and were pleasantly surprised at how nice it had been – by all reports it had been a very mild winter so we considered ourselves lucky. In between renos and general house and garden tasks we had managed to get in some family celebrations (both girl’s graduations, birthdays, and a wedding anniversary) as well as a few weekends away.

We had spent our last few days in Tassie on the West Coast at Strahan, and as expected, the weather wasn’t great. We went for a wander in town, but, being the “off season”. We had booked a 6:45pm sail, so had most of the day to fill in on our way to Devonport.

We took out time leaving Strahan and made our first stop in Zeehan for coffee. From there we continued on to Rosebery where we had lunch in a nice park. We then drove a short distance out of town to Stitt Falls. The walk to the falls was about 30 metres so only took a couple of minutes to a slightly underwhelming waterfall – but it did fill in a bit more time.

We drove through to the turn-off to Waratah and drove in to have a look. We went for a short walk to the Waratah Falls viewing point. We also walked a little way along the river then continued back towards the highway. We decided to take another detour to go to the north coast via Hellyer Gorge. We’ve visited several times and it’s a good spot to spend some time. The day was clear, but cold, and we walked down to the river and noticed the water level was much higher than usual, making access to the walking path almost impossible. We returned to the carpark where Mick spent a long session trying to photograph some birds.

From Hellyer Gorge we drove north to Burnie then continued along the Bass Highway to Devonport. For once our timing was perfect. We had timed our arrival coincide with the start of boarding instead of check-in as we usually do. We were checked in and through security and quarantine checks with very little waiting. We were directed to a lane (one of about 20 that were all mostly full) and pulled up beside a birder  who Mick had met in South Australia a few years ago, and had stayed in touch with via Instagram. We knew he had been in Tassie but it was quite a coincidence to be stopped right beside him in the queue to get on the boat. After a really quick chat and an invitation to join us for a drink, our lane was directed to board – we had only waited a couple of minutes.

Once settled into our cabin we made our way to the bar and were joined by Chris for a couple of drinks and a chat about birding. He gave Mick a few tips for our travels through Victoria and South Australia. We had dinner and returned to the cabin for a very comfortable, calm crossing. The biggest downside of a 6:45am sail is the very early wake-up call.

Mick had a couple of birds he wanted to chase on the way between Geelong and picking up the camper trailer in Bendigo so we were pleased to be on the first vehicle deck to disembark and on our way to Barwon Heads in search of the Double-banded plover. We found the beach and walked along for quite a way without success, turned around and went on the opposite direction and found them not far past where we had entered the beach. We should have turned left instead of right. Mick spent a while lying on the sand taking photos before we set off again.

Our next destination was Castlemaine so we stopped in Daylesford for brunch at the bakery then continued on to the Botanic Gardens in Castlemaine. This time we were searching for the Powerful owl. Mick has looked for this species in various locations without success but this time his perseverance was rewarded with some good photos of the owl with a galah it had caught.

The next stop was Bell’s Swamp near Neereman. This time the target species was the Australian Painted snipe. Again, Mick was successful in sighting the bird – three for three, so all in all a great day’s birding, even though he didn’t get a great photo. We had a quick lunch by the swamp and headed into Bendigo to pick up the camper and settle in to the caravan park. We had decided to stay in Bendigo for its proximity to Bell’s Swamp and also the Greater Bendigo National Park.

Part - Time Tasmanians

We would spend two long stretches of time in Hobart with our daughters from the end of 2022 until mid-way through 2023. We would become "part time Tasmanians" and enjoy life in the southern capital, but would also return to the mainland for a short trip around Victoria. Our first visit was at the beginning of December so we could spend Christmas and New Year with the girls, then we left at the end of February and returned again just prior to Easter. We would have our first winter in Tassie - something we were not entirely sure we would enjoy. Because we would be busy with building work, we didn't anticipate getting away much, but we would try to make the most of out time "down south". As it turned out, we did manage to fit in a few weekends away, as well as some special events.

                

A  Couple of  Graduations 

16 December 2022 and 28 April 2023

The first special occassion for us was daughter Julia's graduation -  Bachelor of Science (Majoring in Plant Science) in December, followed by Jo's graduation -  Bachelor of Antarctic and Marine Science  - in April. We were so pleased we were able to attend both University of Tasmania graduation ceremonies and immensely proud of both our girls. They both managed to get through with the challenges posed during Covid lock-downs and had to adapt to a different way of attending university, as well as working to support themselves. 

A Pelagic Weekend

16 - 19 December 2023

Mick is a keen bird photographer and had booked to go out on a pelagic boat trip leaving from Eaglehawk Neck. These are very popular and places fill up fast. He had arranged a spot for the Saturday and Sunday, when we were in Tasmania at the start of the year. Because the boat departs at 7:00am we booked to stay at Stewart's Bay on the Tasman Peninsula from Friday night to Monday morning. Mick is usually fine out on the water, but this time he did get seasick and contemplated missing the Sunday trip. Armed with some anti nausea medication provided by a fellow passenger, his second day was much better than the previous one. 

While Mick was at sea, I took a drive to Nubeena looking for the markets but coudn't find any sign of them so called into the supermarket before heading home. On the Sunday morning, the sky was bright and clear so, after I had dropped Mick off, I drove over to Devils Kitchen and set off on the Waterfall Bay Walk. This walk in 3.5km return and hugs the cliff line, affording some spectacular views. At one of the lookouts I could see the boat taking the birdwatchers out into the Southern Ocean. The walk is rated a Grade 3 but I found it to be quite easy and definitely worth it. After the walk I also visited Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen, which are both just a short walk from the carpark.

A Family Get-Together

27 - 30 January 2023

Back in 2020 I had planned a family get-together to celebrate my 60th birthday in May of that year, but Covid put an end to that plan, so it was decided to reschedule at the start of 2023. My sister and her partner would travel to Hobart and we would all spend a weekend on the Tasman Peninsula. The girls were both working in jobs that allowed them to be there from Friday night until Sunday afternoon so we were able to have a lovely few days together in a house on the edge of Safety Bay. Because of the timing, we were able to make it a combined 60th birthday (me), belated graduation (Julia), early graduation (Jo) and 65th birthday (Bronwyn). 

Bronwyn and John spent a day at the Port Arthur Historic Site, while we went for a walk with the girls to Point Puer, one of the stops on the boat tour from Port Arthur. It was a lovely walk along the beach and through the bush which gave an interesting perspective looking back at the historic site across the bay.

On Sunday, John stayed at home to work while the rest of us drove down to Remarkable Cave. We then went along the track to Maignon Blowhole and towards Mount Brown. Jo was keen to keep going but we talked her out of it - it looked too strenuous for us old folks. The girls left after an early dinner on Sunday night and we packed up and headed off on Monday morning.

Before leaving the Peninsula we called in to show the visitors The Blowhole and Tesselated Pavement. We had to keep moving as Bronwyn and John had a plane to catch but we did have time to watch (and photograph) some dolphins cruising in Denison Canal at Dunalley.

Aurora Australis

24 April 2023

I've long been fascinated by the aurora and have wanted to try to get a photograph of the Southern Lights, but when we have been in Tasmania over summer, that would have required staying up way too late. On the morning of 24 April we started to see reports, and photos, of Aurora Australis from about 4:00am, and visible to the naked eye. Julia consulted her sources and determined that conditions would be good that night so we headed out just after dark to Goat's Beach, out towards South Arm. 

The small carpark was packed but there was plenty of room on the beach to snag a spot and set up the tripod. It was really cold but we had rugged up in our puffer jackets and beanies. Julia and I only had our mobile phones but were very excited to see our first photos. We both took so many snaps - many of them destined for the recycle bin, but also a few quite acceptable ones. When we returned home, of course Mick was sorry he hadn't braved the cold to join us with a "proper" camera. Maybe next time. 

Another Pelagic Weekend 

29 April - 2 May 2023

Mick was able to book onto another pelagic thanks to some cancellations and Jo was to go with him. For this one it would be just the one day, but we booked an extra night's accommodation so we could make it into a short holiday. Jo stayed with her partner at Fortescue Bay, and we were at Taranna so she picked Mick up along the way.

The weather was perfect for this one, with reasonably calm seas - as calm as it can be out off the continental shelf anyway. With the sun shining I set off to visit the Coal Mines Historic Site. Not as well known, or as well develped as Port Arthur, this site is no less fascinating, and in a fabulous location on the Lime Bay.

At the entrance to Coal Mines Historic Site, a sign provides details of a number of walks. The walks, however, are not signed and once I started to make my way around the site I realised the walks are really just paths that take you from one point of interest to another. I walked around the bay to Plunkett Point then back the way I had come, and up the Incline Plain to the Mine Shaft. That part of the walk is a very steep uphill (of course) path that was once used to take wagons to and from the mine. At the Settlement, there are ruins of many buildings, including the Convict Barracks and the solitary confinement cells. All around the site, signage details not just the history of the Coal Mines, but personal stories of those were inprisoned there.

A Birthday Celebration

 6 May 2023

Having a birthday while in Hobart with family meant a celebratory brunch of pancakes, followed by presents! My sister had gifted me a High Tea at one of the hotels in town and we had booked for 3:00pm. We enjoyed a very fancy afternoon before heading home for a very quiet evening. No need for dinner that night!

Dark Mofo - Dark Park

9  June 2023

Dark Mofo has become a highlight of winter in Tasmania and provides a perfect excuse to get out and about when it's cold and dark. Sometimes controversial, always interesting, this was our first opportunity to experience this very popular festival.

We ventured out one Friday night to visit Dark Park - bars, food trucks and perfomances created a wonderful atmosphere. Everywhere we turned, both indoors and outdoors, was something weird, quirky and interesting. We started off in the Blue Velvet Lounge where we had drinks (of course), listened to some music and saw the Giant Teddy. From there we moved on to see a performance installation by Sundanese artists, instrument builders and alchemists. 

Our next stop was out into the cold, dark night to grab a bite to eat from one of the many food trucks and to marvel at the Spectra - a light installation that we could actually see from home. Our final stop of the night was to add our fears to the Ogoh-Ogoh : The Purging. Derived from a Balinese Hindu purification tradition, we wrote down our fears and banished them to the belly of the giant platypus.

A Birthday Getaway - Southport

15 - 18 June 2023

We have been down to the south of Tasmania a few times and wanted to return so booked three nights in a cottage on the edge of the forest at Southport. We've stayed there before and love the location but were not optimistic about the weather. When we arrived it was cold and cloudy so we were grateful that the fire had been set ready for us to light. 

Although the weather wasn't great we did manage to get out for a drive down to Roaring Beach one morning. We went for a walk along the beach and then along a bush track to an old graveyard. We continued around the headland then back along the track to the carpark. 

Mick spent some time at the cottage photographing birds but as we were both feeling unwell we didn't go out again until the day we left when we drove down to Lune River for a browse in the Lunaris Gemstones shop. They have some really interesting, mainly Tasmanian specimens for sale. 

From Lune River we headed back to Hobart and home in time to join the girls for another Dark Mofo excursion.

Dark Mofo - Winter Feast / Ogoh-Ogoh: The Procession / Ogoh-Ogoh :The Burning 

18 June 2023

We returned to Dark Mofo on the final night, starting with something to eat at Winter Feast, before taking part in the Ogoh-Ogoh procession. The giant platypus into which we had cast our fears on our visit to Dark Park, was carried through the streets from Winter Feast to Dark Park, accompanied by musicians, other giant creatures and members of the public who were encouraged to join in. 

It was such a fun event and something totally different to anything I had been part of previously. Once we arrived at Dark Park we joined the huge crowd to await the spectacle that was The Burning, where the giant platypus, with all our fears inside, was set ablaze. What a sight! It was such fun to be able to take part in this wonderful winter festival.

Celebrating a Wedding Anniversary - Cradle Mountain

28 June - 1 July 2020

We decided to celebrate our wedding anniversary at Cradle Mountain and were able to get a great deal on accommodation at one of our favourite places to stay - Cradle Mountain Wilderness Village. We hoped that visiting in winter might mean we would see some snow so we watched the forecast closely. Unfortunately it wasn't looking good. We did see that snow was predicted to fall on the morning that we were to arrive so we made the decision to leave Hobart as early as possible.

We were on the road around 7:00am and headed up the Midland Highway with a stop in Campbell Town for morning tea. We continued on and turned off to Sheffield where we had an early lunch at the bakery. Once we arrived at Cradle Mountain we stopped at the Visitor Centre to get our bus tickets and headed straight up to Dove Lake. So far, no sign of snow. We debated whether to get off the bus at Ronny Creek and go looking for wombats, but decided to keep going to Dove Lake.

Finally we had made the right decision - as we approached the bus stop the first few flakes of snow started to fall. In the end it wasn't much - just enough to take a few photos to show we had been snowed on as we walked. It didn't last long so we hopped back on the bus and went back down to Ronny Creek to hang out with the wombats for a while.

The weather was pretty awful for the rest of our stay so we didn't venture out again, instead relaxing and enjoying the view out to the bush and the visiting currawongs. The on-site restaurant had just reopened so we had dinner there to celebrate our 38th wedding anniversary. The meal was delicious and we were seated by the fire which made for a very nice night.

On the morning we left, the weather was a little better so we went up to the Enchanted Walk - a short, easy walk, but always a favourite. Back on the road we had lunch in Sheffield again before driving back home to Hobart.

Yet another Pelagic

14 - 16 July 2023

Mick was fortunate to be able to get a spot on another Pelagic out of Eaglehawk Neck so we booked to have a weekend at Mason's Cottages at Taranna. The cottages are conveniently located just as short drive from the departure point for the boat trip.

We drove out to the Tasman Peninsula after lunch and were delighted to find that we had been upgraded from a studio apartment to a 2 bedroom cottage. It was so nice to have the extra room for our two night stay. The weather was cold but the cottage was warm and very well equipped.

On Saturday morning I dropped Mick off at the Pirate's Bay boat ramp and headed back to the cottage. The weather wasn't great so I decided against going out to do one of the many walks around. Instead I pottered around at the cottage before collecting Mick from the jetty at 3:00pm. Our visit coincided with the Lightwave Festival and we toyed with the idea of heading over for dinner but decided to stay in.

On Sunday morning we packed up and went for a drive to Nubeena and White Beach and stopped in at the Pear Shed. There is an onsite cafe - really just a coffee van and some outdoor seating - and a gallery with some interesting artworks. From there we headed home, making a few stops along the way to look for birds - of course. This would be our final excursion from Hobart before leaving in August.