Part - Time Tasmanians

We would spend two long stretches of time in Hobart with our daughters from the end of 2022 until mid-way through 2023. We would become "part time Tasmanians" and enjoy life in the southern capital, but would also return to the mainland for a short trip around Victoria. Our first visit was at the beginning of December so we could spend Christmas and New Year with the girls, then we left at the end of February and returned again just prior to Easter. We would have our first winter in Tassie - something we were not entirely sure we would enjoy. Because we would be busy with building work, we didn't anticipate getting away much, but we would try to make the most of out time "down south". As it turned out, we did manage to fit in a few weekends away, as well as some special events.

                

A  Couple of  Graduations 

16 December 2022 and 28 April 2023

The first special occassion for us was daughter Julia's graduation -  Bachelor of Science (Majoring in Plant Science) in December, followed by Jo's graduation -  Bachelor of Antarctic and Marine Science  - in April. We were so pleased we were able to attend both University of Tasmania graduation ceremonies and immensely proud of both our girls. They both managed to get through with the challenges posed during Covid lock-downs and had to adapt to a different way of attending university, as well as working to support themselves. 

A Pelagic Weekend

16 - 19 December 2023

Mick is a keen bird photographer and had booked to go out on a pelagic boat trip leaving from Eaglehawk Neck. These are very popular and places fill up fast. He had arranged a spot for the Saturday and Sunday, when we were in Tasmania at the start of the year. Because the boat departs at 7:00am we booked to stay at Stewart's Bay on the Tasman Peninsula from Friday night to Monday morning. Mick is usually fine out on the water, but this time he did get seasick and contemplated missing the Sunday trip. Armed with some anti nausea medication provided by a fellow passenger, his second day was much better than the previous one. 

While Mick was at sea, I took a drive to Nubeena looking for the markets but coudn't find any sign of them so called into the supermarket before heading home. On the Sunday morning, the sky was bright and clear so, after I had dropped Mick off, I drove over to Devils Kitchen and set off on the Waterfall Bay Walk. This walk in 3.5km return and hugs the cliff line, affording some spectacular views. At one of the lookouts I could see the boat taking the birdwatchers out into the Southern Ocean. The walk is rated a Grade 3 but I found it to be quite easy and definitely worth it. After the walk I also visited Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen, which are both just a short walk from the carpark.

A Family Get-Together

27 - 30 January 2023

Back in 2020 I had planned a family get-together to celebrate my 60th birthday in May of that year, but Covid put an end to that plan, so it was decided to reschedule at the start of 2023. My sister and her partner would travel to Hobart and we would all spend a weekend on the Tasman Peninsula. The girls were both working in jobs that allowed them to be there from Friday night until Sunday afternoon so we were able to have a lovely few days together in a house on the edge of Safety Bay. Because of the timing, we were able to make it a combined 60th birthday (me), belated graduation (Julia), early graduation (Jo) and 65th birthday (Bronwyn). 

Bronwyn and John spent a day at the Port Arthur Historic Site, while we went for a walk with the girls to Point Puer, one of the stops on the boat tour from Port Arthur. It was a lovely walk along the beach and through the bush which gave an interesting perspective looking back at the historic site across the bay.

On Sunday, John stayed at home to work while the rest of us drove down to Remarkable Cave. We then went along the track to Maignon Blowhole and towards Mount Brown. Jo was keen to keep going but we talked her out of it - it looked too strenuous for us old folks. The girls left after an early dinner on Sunday night and we packed up and headed off on Monday morning.

Before leaving the Peninsula we called in to show the visitors The Blowhole and Tesselated Pavement. We had to keep moving as Bronwyn and John had a plane to catch but we did have time to watch (and photograph) some dolphins cruising in Denison Canal at Dunalley.

Aurora Australis

24 April 2023

I've long been fascinated by the aurora and have wanted to try to get a photograph of the Southern Lights, but when we have been in Tasmania over summer, that would have required staying up way too late. On the morning of 24 April we started to see reports, and photos, of Aurora Australis from about 4:00am, and visible to the naked eye. Julia consulted her sources and determined that conditions would be good that night so we headed out just after dark to Goat's Beach, out towards South Arm. 

The small carpark was packed but there was plenty of room on the beach to snag a spot and set up the tripod. It was really cold but we had rugged up in our puffer jackets and beanies. Julia and I only had our mobile phones but were very excited to see our first photos. We both took so many snaps - many of them destined for the recycle bin, but also a few quite acceptable ones. When we returned home, of course Mick was sorry he hadn't braved the cold to join us with a "proper" camera. Maybe next time. 

Another Pelagic Weekend 

29 April - 2 May 2023

Mick was able to book onto another pelagic thanks to some cancellations and Jo was to go with him. For this one it would be just the one day, but we booked an extra night's accommodation so we could make it into a short holiday. Jo stayed with her partner at Fortescue Bay, and we were at Taranna so she picked Mick up along the way.

The weather was perfect for this one, with reasonably calm seas - as calm as it can be out off the continental shelf anyway. With the sun shining I set off to visit the Coal Mines Historic Site. Not as well known, or as well develped as Port Arthur, this site is no less fascinating, and in a fabulous location on the Lime Bay.

At the entrance to Coal Mines Historic Site, a sign provides details of a number of walks. The walks, however, are not signed and once I started to make my way around the site I realised the walks are really just paths that take you from one point of interest to another. I walked around the bay to Plunkett Point then back the way I had come, and up the Incline Plain to the Mine Shaft. That part of the walk is a very steep uphill (of course) path that was once used to take wagons to and from the mine. At the Settlement, there are ruins of many buildings, including the Convict Barracks and the solitary confinement cells. All around the site, signage details not just the history of the Coal Mines, but personal stories of those were inprisoned there.

A Birthday Celebration

 6 May 2023

Having a birthday while in Hobart with family meant a celebratory brunch of pancakes, followed by presents! My sister had gifted me a High Tea at one of the hotels in town and we had booked for 3:00pm. We enjoyed a very fancy afternoon before heading home for a very quiet evening. No need for dinner that night!

Dark Mofo - Dark Park

9  June 2023

Dark Mofo has become a highlight of winter in Tasmania and provides a perfect excuse to get out and about when it's cold and dark. Sometimes controversial, always interesting, this was our first opportunity to experience this very popular festival.

We ventured out one Friday night to visit Dark Park - bars, food trucks and perfomances created a wonderful atmosphere. Everywhere we turned, both indoors and outdoors, was something weird, quirky and interesting. We started off in the Blue Velvet Lounge where we had drinks (of course), listened to some music and saw the Giant Teddy. From there we moved on to see a performance installation by Sundanese artists, instrument builders and alchemists. 

Our next stop was out into the cold, dark night to grab a bite to eat from one of the many food trucks and to marvel at the Spectra - a light installation that we could actually see from home. Our final stop of the night was to add our fears to the Ogoh-Ogoh : The Purging. Derived from a Balinese Hindu purification tradition, we wrote down our fears and banished them to the belly of the giant platypus.

A Birthday Getaway - Southport

15 - 18 June 2023

We have been down to the south of Tasmania a few times and wanted to return so booked three nights in a cottage on the edge of the forest at Southport. We've stayed there before and love the location but were not optimistic about the weather. When we arrived it was cold and cloudy so we were grateful that the fire had been set ready for us to light. 

Although the weather wasn't great we did manage to get out for a drive down to Roaring Beach one morning. We went for a walk along the beach and then along a bush track to an old graveyard. We continued around the headland then back along the track to the carpark. 

Mick spent some time at the cottage photographing birds but as we were both feeling unwell we didn't go out again until the day we left when we drove down to Lune River for a browse in the Lunaris Gemstones shop. They have some really interesting, mainly Tasmanian specimens for sale. 

From Lune River we headed back to Hobart and home in time to join the girls for another Dark Mofo excursion.

Dark Mofo - Winter Feast / Ogoh-Ogoh: The Procession / Ogoh-Ogoh :The Burning 

18 June 2023

We returned to Dark Mofo on the final night, starting with something to eat at Winter Feast, before taking part in the Ogoh-Ogoh procession. The giant platypus into which we had cast our fears on our visit to Dark Park, was carried through the streets from Winter Feast to Dark Park, accompanied by musicians, other giant creatures and members of the public who were encouraged to join in. 

It was such a fun event and something totally different to anything I had been part of previously. Once we arrived at Dark Park we joined the huge crowd to await the spectacle that was The Burning, where the giant platypus, with all our fears inside, was set ablaze. What a sight! It was such fun to be able to take part in this wonderful winter festival.

Celebrating a Wedding Anniversary - Cradle Mountain

28 June - 1 July 2020

We decided to celebrate our wedding anniversary at Cradle Mountain and were able to get a great deal on accommodation at one of our favourite places to stay - Cradle Mountain Wilderness Village. We hoped that visiting in winter might mean we would see some snow so we watched the forecast closely. Unfortunately it wasn't looking good. We did see that snow was predicted to fall on the morning that we were to arrive so we made the decision to leave Hobart as early as possible.

We were on the road around 7:00am and headed up the Midland Highway with a stop in Campbell Town for morning tea. We continued on and turned off to Sheffield where we had an early lunch at the bakery. Once we arrived at Cradle Mountain we stopped at the Visitor Centre to get our bus tickets and headed straight up to Dove Lake. So far, no sign of snow. We debated whether to get off the bus at Ronny Creek and go looking for wombats, but decided to keep going to Dove Lake.

Finally we had made the right decision - as we approached the bus stop the first few flakes of snow started to fall. In the end it wasn't much - just enough to take a few photos to show we had been snowed on as we walked. It didn't last long so we hopped back on the bus and went back down to Ronny Creek to hang out with the wombats for a while.

The weather was pretty awful for the rest of our stay so we didn't venture out again, instead relaxing and enjoying the view out to the bush and the visiting currawongs. The on-site restaurant had just reopened so we had dinner there to celebrate our 38th wedding anniversary. The meal was delicious and we were seated by the fire which made for a very nice night.

On the morning we left, the weather was a little better so we went up to the Enchanted Walk - a short, easy walk, but always a favourite. Back on the road we had lunch in Sheffield again before driving back home to Hobart.

Yet another Pelagic

14 - 16 July 2023

Mick was fortunate to be able to get a spot on another Pelagic out of Eaglehawk Neck so we booked to have a weekend at Mason's Cottages at Taranna. The cottages are conveniently located just as short drive from the departure point for the boat trip.

We drove out to the Tasman Peninsula after lunch and were delighted to find that we had been upgraded from a studio apartment to a 2 bedroom cottage. It was so nice to have the extra room for our two night stay. The weather was cold but the cottage was warm and very well equipped.

On Saturday morning I dropped Mick off at the Pirate's Bay boat ramp and headed back to the cottage. The weather wasn't great so I decided against going out to do one of the many walks around. Instead I pottered around at the cottage before collecting Mick from the jetty at 3:00pm. Our visit coincided with the Lightwave Festival and we toyed with the idea of heading over for dinner but decided to stay in.

On Sunday morning we packed up and went for a drive to Nubeena and White Beach and stopped in at the Pear Shed. There is an onsite cafe - really just a coffee van and some outdoor seating - and a gallery with some interesting artworks. From there we headed home, making a few stops along the way to look for birds - of course. This would be our final excursion from Hobart before leaving in August.

Cradle Mountain

30 January - 2 February 2022

Cradle Mountain has been a favourite since we first visited in 2004 so we were keen to add a few days again this year. The price of accommodation has skyrocketed, but we were fortunate to get a special mid-week deal on a cabin at the caravan park. While not as flash as the other accommodation we have stayed in there, it was perfectly adequate for our needs, and still in a nice bushy setting. The decision not to take the camper trailer was easy - the weather at Cradle can be very unpredictable and very cold, even in the middle of summer. 

We like to take different travel routes when we can so this time we decided on a drive through the highlands. Leaving Hobart we travelled up the Midlands Highway then stopped for a coffee and a look at the lake at Oatlands. From there we turned off towards Interlaken. This was a very beautiful drive but we were surprised at the amount of traffic. We made a quick stop at Interlaken to check the map against what the GPS was trying to get us to do. The GPS said right, but my gut and the map said left, so left it was. If we had followed the GPS we would have gone all the way back to the highway!

By going left we continued through the mountain and forest, passing farmlands and lakes, to join the Highland Lakes Road. We continued on to Miena where we stopped for lunch at the hotel. This is a popular spot, with a very large group arriving just after we had ordered. The service and food was good and we certainly enjoyed the view of Great Lake while we ate. From there it was on through Deloraine, then Sheffield and on to Cradle Mountain.

The day was still mild and sunny when we arrived so we settled in and went for a walk around the caravan park and surrounds. We decided to leave the National Park walks until the next day. 

On Monday morning the forecast was again for a sunny day, with temperatures in the low 20's - quite hot for this part of Tasmania. After much deliberation we decided that we would tackle a walk we hadn't done before - Crater Lake Circuit. The description of this walk is almost identical to Dove Lake Circuit which we have walked a number of times - 2-3 hours and moderate sounded fine to us. We knew it would probably take us longer than the estimate as we stop often to take in the scenery and to photograph birds, so we packed snacks, lunch and wet weather gear - we know things can change very quickly in the mountains.

We stopped in at the visitor centre to obtain our bus tickets - free with your National Parks Pass - and waited for the bus to Dove Lake. New rules are in place and private vehicles cannot travel up to Dove Lake at all, and can only travel to Ronny Creek and Waldheim outside of the bus operating hours, unless with a bus escort. 

The bus drivers provide some commentary on the trip from the visitor centre to Dove Lake and stop at the Interpretation Centre and Ranger Station, Snake Hill and Ronny Creek to set down and pick up passengers. We arrived at Dove Lake and set off on our walk just after 9:30am. Crater Lakes Circuit starts from The Boatshed on Dove Lake and then continues on to Lake Lilla. We have done this part of the walk a couple of times, in both directions and it is a very pleasant walk. That's where the easy stuff ends - from there it was a bit of a climb up to Wombat Pool. We have been that far before too and I remember struggling up all the stairs - I am older and no fitter so again I struggled. 

This walk had been my idea so I couldn't bail out and just had to keep going. Just when we thought we were almost at the top, there were more stairs! We were using hiking poles and stopping frequently but we still found it very hard going. Fortunately we weren't the only ones finding it a bit hard and were encouraged on by other walkers. At one stage the "track" ascended over a large rock, at which point Mick suggesed I make the call to continue or go back. I chose to continue. When we finally made it to the junction point where you can continue on to Marion's Lookout and the Overland Track or go back down to Ronny Creek, we were rewarded with the most magnificent views of Dove Lake, Lake Lilla and Wombat Pool. So many people were, like us, having an extended break at the lookout - getting ready for the next part of their walk.  

After a good rest we continued along the edge of Crater Lake and made our way to The Boatshed where we stopped for lunch and marvelled at the thought of bringing a boat all the way up there. The walk from there was mostly downhill and went through some very pretty forest with a waterfall and  creek with beautiful clear water where Mick refilled our water bottle. This is part of the Overland Track and we passed quite a few serious hikers setting off on this 6 day trek. I guess we can say we have walked the Overland Track - just the beginning and also a small section at the end at Lake St Clair. 

Once we reached the junction where the boardwalk continued on to Ronny Creek, Dove Lake or Waldheim, we chose the shortest route back and headed for Ronny Creek. This meant we didn't complete the full circuit but we were exhausted. We had previously walked from Ronny Creek to Dove Lake so didn't feel like we were missing out. The stair climbing (up and down) on this walk had been a struggle for both of us - it was hot and we were exhausted. It is so much harder than Dove Lake Circuit but after a good rest we both agreed it had been worth the effort.

The following morning we decided to walk the Dove Lake Circuit. It was another beautiful day with little chance of rain, but we did take raincoats just in case. This walk is the most popular in the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, and is on most visitors' "must do" list. The description of a "moderate" grade is accurate - there are a few uphill sections, some stairs and some rough surfaces, but most of it is on smooth track with some boardwalk sections. There are a number of places to stop and enjoy the view, including a couple of sandy beaches. Most people complete the track, as suggested by National Parks, in a clockwise direction. By doing this the first point of interest is Glacier Rock and the last is The Boatshed - both provide great photo opportunities. 

We usually stay at Cradle Mountain for three nights to give us two full days in the hope that at least one will provide suitable walking conditions so we were very fortunate to get two almost perfect days - just a bit hotter than we would have liked. Hotter, except for our final night when the temperature had  dropped to 2° when we woke at about 7:00am. We took our time to pack up as we were still uncertain about whether we would return to Hobart of go somewhere else. We decided to take a scenic route to Campbell Town, check the weather, and then decide.

Leaving Cradle Mountain we drove through Miena, then turned towards Sheffield, the way we had come in, but this time we took the road to Liena. This windy road has some fabulous views as it passes close to Mount Roland. Eventually we made it to Mole Creek, then back on the highway to Campbell Town.

We stopped for lunch and checked the weather - we had noticed strong winds had been forecast so were pleased to see that the recorded winds were much lower than expected. We decided to head for Scamander and see what accommodation we could get for a couple of nights.

Tasmania - Cradle Mountain

16 - 18 January 2017

Every tree trunk is a miniature garden.

Cradle Mountain has been a favourite destination since our first visit 11 years ago. We always try to spend a few days there and this trip was no exception. Because we only booked a few weeks in advance we could only get two nights at our chosen accommodation. We drove from Devonport through Forth and on to Cradle Mountain (actually Cradle Valley but everyone knows it as Cradle Mountain). We checked into our cabin and spent a relaxing afternoon soaking up the atmosphere with a bush view.

Black Currawong (endemic). The following shots were all taken from the balcony of our cabin.

Scrubtit (endemic).

Echidnas are fairly common.

Tasmanian Scrubwren (endemic).

Tasmanian Scrubwren (endemic).

We decided this visit to go to Devils@Cradle, a Tasmanian Devil Sanctuary. This conservation facility houses devils, as well as their nearest living relatives, the Spotted and Eastern-tail Quolls. This is a research, breeding, education and tourist facility that I can highly recommend. For $18 per adult we could wander the grounds on our own or join a tour - we did both. Advertised as taking about 45 minutes, ours took much longer as our experienced and highly knowledgeable guide provided essential information about the plight and future of the Tasmanian Devil. All aspects of devil life and behaviour were covered, including the fascinating but worrying Devil Facial Tumor Disease. Please visit if you get the chance.

Spotted-tailed or Tiger Quoll.

Eastern Quoll

Tasmanian Devil, a close relative of the quoll.

One of the residents.

This Flame Robin was gathering food for nestlings as we walked around the enclosures.

Besides the devils and quolls, this is also a great birding destination. I saw Flame Robin, Yellow-throated Honeyeater, Scrubtit, Tasmanian Scrubwren and Crescent Honeyeater. Mick

In the afternoon we set off for the visitor centre where we obtained our bus tickets. Visitors require a National Parks Pass, which entitles you to free transport to and from Dove Lake by bus. The bus makes a number of stops along the way - at the Ranger Station, Snake Hill, Ronny Creek and Dove Lake. The walk around Dove Lake is well worth the effort but we chose to disembark at Ronny Creek and walk a short way towards Lake Lilla and then backtrack to the bus stop, then down to Snake Hill, all along the boardwalk. This is a beautiful walk which is on boardwalk with some steps up and down hills. The views are fantastic and there is the opportunity to see wombats and echindas.

The boardwalk winds through Button Grass and alpine ferns.

We returned to Devonport via Sheffield with its magnificent views of Mount Roland, which had the photographer stopping to take a few snaps.

Tasmania

Devonport

Devonport was our base in Tasmania - eldest daughter Julia lives there with her fiance Josh, and they have a spare bedroom just for us. We arrived just after 7:00am and enjoyed catching up with them over breakfast. After a rest day, we set off with Julia on Monday morning for a day out - visiting op-shops in Devonport, East Devonport, Ulverstone and Latrobe.

Scamander

15 - 17 December 2015

Lesser-crested terns at Scamander.

For our first excursion away from Devonport we decided on the East Coast. This is a very popular holiday destination, and with school holidays just around the corner, we thought it might be hard to get accommodation in the coming weeks. We chose Scamander because we found a place to stay, right on the beach, that looked nice.

Our accommodation was on the left behind the sandy beach.

The grass area in front of our room.

We left Devonport along the Bass Highway towards Deloraine, then through Longford, where we stopped for lunch. It was then onto the Midland Highway, and a turn-off onto the Main Esk Road before arriving at Scamander.

We were lucky to experience some beautiful weather.

The unfortunately named Red-necked stint.

Little terns are breeding on the beach.

Red-capped plovers have small chicks and keep a weary eye on passers-by.

The accommodation we chose was self-contained, but small, with the best uninterrupted views to the beach. A small supermarket in Scamander was sufficient to get supplies for dinner. In the morning we set off to St Helens - where I ran into the husband of a former work colleague in the Visitor Information Centre! Such a small world.

I had to stop at St Helens to capture this perfectly calm harbour view.

We drove out to the Bay of Fires - one of the most spectacular parts of this magnificent coastline. We made several stops to walk on the beach, and to take lots of photos. After driving all the way up to The Gardens we headed back to Binalong Bay for coffee then back to St Helens for lunch and some more shopping. There are two op-shops, as well as two supermarkets and other shops.

Bay of Fires.

Bay of Fires.

Bay of Fires scenery is stunning.

Binalong Bay.

We walked on the beach in the afternoon and again in the morning before setting off for Bicheno.


Bicheno

17 - 19 December 2015

We stayed at Diamond Island Resort in Bicheno in 2004 and enjoyed our short visit so decided to go there again. We booked a self-contained unit and arrived too early to check in. After coffee in town we drove out to Freycinet National Park which is only 40km away. We enjoyed a picnic lunch at Ranger Creek, just near the park visitor centre. We picked up a map and some information about a possible bird watching spot.

More stunning scenery at Coles Bay in Freycinet National Park.

Diamond Island Resort has private beach access - and is a great place to see penguins. Each evening these cute little birds march up from the beach and head off into their nesting spots nearby. We gathered with other visitors at about 9.30pm and watched the passing parade. It was a very special sight.

Looking over to Diamond Island from our balcony. The Penguin viewing platform is centre of the shot.

The small floodlight is not strong enough to get a good shot of the Little penguins.

In the morning we walked over to Diamond Island. You can only do this at low tide, so we had checked the tide times first. We didn't stay long, and didn't see any penguins although there were tracks in the sand. We really didn't want to disturb them so stayed away from the burrows.

Black-faced cormorant.

Hooded plover.

Sooty oystercatchers.

A Lesser-crested tern loses its crab dinner temporarily.

Lesser-crested tern.

Next we drove back down to Freycinet National Park, and decided to start with a visit to the Wineglass Bay Lookout. We have completed this somewhat challenging walk before and it is well worth the effort - but the car park was almost full when we arrived and we didn't fancy getting caught up in crowds so we moved on to Cape Tourville instead. This is a really easy short walk, with terrific views, around the lighthouse.

The famous Wineglass Bay can be seen in the distance.

Forest Raven. I'm making an effort to sort out Crows and Ravens on this trip.

On the way back towards the main road we stopped at Sleepy Bay. Again there is a very easy short walk, and then a longer extension track that takes you down to the beach. Although there were lots of stairs, some steep sections, and it was loose underfoot, it was actually a relatively easy walk. The beach at the end was sufficient reward for the effort.

Sleepy Bay.

An optical illusion at Sleepy Bay.

We drove into Coles Bay for lunch at the pub, then out to the Friendly Beaches. Again we found ourselves entranced by a wonderful view. The sea was such a bright blue, and the sand so white it appeared quite tropical - but don't be fooled, it might be summer, but in Tasmania the water is still icy cold.

Even with a stiff sea breeze the water remains crystal clear at Friendly Beaches.

Looking down on the long stretch of pure white sand.

Our last morning at Bicheno and from our balcony, Dolphins could be seen showing off in the distance.

After four days with fantastic weather we headed home to Devonport the long way - via St Helens, Scottsdale and Launceston. This drive took us through farming and forest land. It's a beautiful drive but windy most of the way to Launceston. We found a nice picnic area by the river in Derby. Although it was in the town. there were a number of families camped there - and children were swimming in the river. It was a sunny day, but I'm sure the river would have been icy cold. We were very fortunate that our visit to the east coast coincided with some great weather - warm and clear, but Tasmania (and much of Victoria and South Australia) was experiencing a heatwave as we drove home - it was 32 degrees when we stopped for fuel and still in the high 20's when we reached our destination.


Corinna - The Tarkine

30 December 2015 - 1 January 2016

For our next excursion we headed west - to the wild west coast. We had stayed at Corinna on a previous visit to Tassie so decided it would be a nice place to see in the New Year. We headed off from Devonport along the Bass Highway, and turned onto the Murchison just past Burnie. We made a stop at Hellyer Gorge - another spot we have stopped at before. We made it into Waratah for a picnic lunch by the waterfall, then on to Corinna. Even though it is less than 100km from Waratah to Corinna, the drive takes about 2 hours. The road is mostly unsealed, windy and narrow in parts but it does go through some beautiful countryside - if you don't count those places that have been logged and mined. It beggars belief that this amazing part of the state is still subject to state sanctioned environmental vandalism. Environmental groups are fighting to save the Tarkine while big business seeks to destroy it. (End of rant)

A Striated Fieldwren taken on the way to Corinna.

We arrived at Corinna and checked into our cottage. The old town is now a tourist village, with new cottages built to mimic the few remaining original ones. They have done a good job. Our cottage (and most) had a small rear veranda which backed onto the forest. This was the perfect spot to sit and enjoy the warm (perhaps hot) weather and the peaceful atmosphere. We also sampled the atmosphere on the hotel veranda for Happy Hour. With great views over the river, this was also a pleasant spot to sit and enjoy.

Scrubtit taken from our deck.

A Tasmanian Thornbill also taken from the back deck.

We aimed to have a relaxing time, but did venture out for a couple of walks. The Huon Pine Walk is an easy and short boardwalk along the river, through remnant forest that escaped the loggers. It seems the trees along this stretch of river were mis-shapen due to floods and so were not considered commercially viable - and so were saved.

Once the boardwalk ended the going got a bit rough.

Very popular with Tassie apiarists, Leatherwood was flowering all around.

Beyond the Huon Pine Walk is the longer and more difficult Savage River Walk. We did walk for about 10 minutes along this path which is steep in parts, unstable underfoot, has stairs and is narrow. This one is probably for the more serious bushwalker.

As a treat for New Year's Eve we went for dinner at the hotel restaurant. Bookings are essential and the menu is small - but the food was great.

The Tarkine Hotel in the background.

While in Corinna visitors have the opportunity to take one of the two available boat tours but we didn't do that this time. We had previously been on the one which goes up to Lover's Falls. It was a great way to get to see more of the area.

The tour boat Arcadia 2.

From the Fatman Barge.

On departing Corinna, to travel south it was necessary to cross the river via the Fatman Barge. The cost is $25 per regular vehicle. The hours are limited so it is best to check before travelling into the area.


Strahan

1-3 January 2016

Leaving Corinna we crossed the Pieman River via the Fatman Barge (the only way if you are going south) and drove towards Zeehan. This part of the road is an easier drive than the way into Corinna via Waratah. Being New Year's Day we were unsure whether we would find anything open in Zeehan, and were pleasantly surprised to find a cafe just as we came into town. After morning tea we drove on to Strahan.

We arrived before lunch so took a stroll around the town, calling into a few shops - as a tourist town, just about everything was open. We then headed up to People's Park for a picnic lunch. There is a nice walk up to Hogarth Falls that we have been on a few times, but we didn't this time.

We headed out to our accommodation on the off-chance we could check in early and were pleased to find we could. Our little (very basic and very tired) cabin had the most magnificent view towards Macquarie Harbour - but that was about all to recommend it. Fortunately the weather was beautiful so we were able to enjoy some outside time - until the wind started.

It was New Years day so time to celebrate.

Buttongrass seed heads wave in the breeze.

Leptospermum (teatree) was flowering all through the heath.

The little cabin sailing on a sea of Buttongrass heath.

The location and views compensate for the shortcomings of the accommodation. Note the blurry, wind blown bushes.

There was nobody at the next cabin so I got this shot from the deck.

The cabin had very large windows so we were still able to enjoy the view without going outside, but it did make for some difficulty finding and photographing birds. Unfortunately the wind persisted throughout the next day, but we still ventured out to a couple of likely spots out near the airport.

Striated Fieldwren are quite common but still hard to see in the dense heath.

Male Southern Emu-wren.

Female Southern Emu-wren.

The wind finally stopped the morning we were leaving! We stayed as long as we could in the hope of getting some good photos, then set off towards Queenstown. It's a bit longer going that way, but we had plenty of time. We hadn't been to Queenstown for some time, so decided a visit was in order. It is so disheartening seeing the way the landscape has been affected by years of mining and logging. There is some sign of rehabilitation, but it will take many generations and a very determined effort.

Beautiful Firetail on the last morning.

We found a busy cafe and had a coffee before heading back towards Zeehan, then north towards Burnie. We stopped at Tullah for lunch. Like many places in Tassie, this is a former accommodation village for workers in the mine and hydro construction. The lodge is right on the lake with great views. It was a perfect spot to enjoy a nice meal. We also investigated the accommodation but found the rooms, although nicely renovated, didn't have lake views or outside seating areas. They were after all originally built as quarters in a time when the surrounding views weren't as important.

Back on the road and through Burnie to home. This time we took the Ridgley Highway instead of the Murchison. Not as pretty, it was an easier and quicker drive through mostly pine plantations.


Tasmanian Arboretum - Eugenana (near Devonport)

6 January

A Platypus surfaces and eyes me suspiciously.

The sky was blue and the day was warm so we decided on a visit to the Tasmanian Arboretum. Only a 20 minute drive away from our Devonport base, it's becoming a favourite spot. On arrival we paid our $5 per person entry fee into the honesty box, and made our way to the pond. Even though it was the middle of the day, we spotted at least three playtpus, one quite close to the bank. We then strolled over to the New Zealand section and spent quite a bit of time in a "very birdy" spot.

When we last visited in March 2015, I noticed that a particular section of the creek was favoured by drinking and bathing birds. We sat there quietly for at least 30 minutes and watched a variety of birds come in. In the greatest numbers were Black-headed Honeyeaters but also present were Grey Fantails, Green Rosellas, Superb Fairywrens,  Yellow-throated Honeyeaters, Grey Shrike Thrush and the introduced European Goldfinch. I hope to return for a longer session before we leave, it's a great spot! Mick.

The endemic Green Rosella.

A sub-adult Yellow-throated Honeyeater is another Tasmanian endemic species.

The endemic Black-headed Honeyeater. Juvenile.

Black-headed Honeyeater, adult.

We stopped for lunch at the small, volunteer run cafe. The menu is very limited (toasted sandwiches, savoury muffins and scones) but the food is good. They also have the best home-made (on-site) ice-creams. It was worth visiting just for the maple and walnut, and rum and raisin. Maybe next time I'll try the Leatherwood honey.

Cradle Mountain

9 January 2016

Julia, Josh and assorted family and friends were leaving to complete the Overland Track – a six day hike through the mountains from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair, so Mick and I volunteered as drivers. We left early in the morning with Julia, Josh and their friend Nick bound for the visitor centre at Cradle Mountain. We met up with members of Josh’s family and a friend at 9.00am and they organised their paperwork. During the peak season (1 October - 31 May) hikers must register and pay, and can only complete the walk from Cradle Mountain. At other times, there is no need to register and pay, and you can leave walk in either direction.

One last look back before beginning the steep climb up to the ridge.

Laden with over 20 kilos each in their packs, we boarded the bus with the trekkers, to take us to Dove Lake. This is not the official start of the Overland Track, but an alternative, slightly easier first day, with an overnight at Scott Kilvert hut, then onto the track itself. Mick and I walked with the group as far as the fork in the Dove Lake track, just beyond Glacier Rock. They had a beautiful day to start their hike, but conditions during the week could be very different.

We walked back down to the Dove Lake carpark, and up onto the Lake Lilla Walk, and then down towards Ronny Creek. This walk does have some uphill sections, but is fairly easy with the last part on boardwalk across the buttongrass plain. We saw a wombat and an echidna, despite the warm, clear day. Ronny Creek is the official starting point for the Overland Track.

Tasmanian Native Hen.

This young Wombat was encountered near Ronny Creek.

Crescent Honeyeaters were calling for most of our walk but were difficult to see.

Back at the road we waited only a few minutes for the shuttle bus. Visitors are discouraged from driving up to Dove Lake so a shuttle bus operates throughout the day. When you arrive at the visitor centre, you can obtain a bus ticket by showing your Parks Pass. Buses leave about every 10 - 15 minutes in peak season. You can get on an off at a number of points and walk from one stop to the next along boardwalks and well-made walking tracks.

After a late lunch at the café, we headed for home via Sheffield.

Strathgordon – South West National Park

12 – 15 January 2016

We have been to lots of beautiful places in Tasmania, and have revisited favourites but our next destination was a new one. Strathgordon is in the South West National Park, and is described as a wilderness. We left home early, and drove via Deloraine and the Highland Lakes. We stopped for coffee in Bothwell and then made our way to Mount FieldNational Park for a picnic lunch.

A yellow Wattlebird was also having lunch in the picnic area.

From Mount Field we drove through Maydena – the last township – and on to Strathgordon. The road is windy, but not narrow as I had expected. Pedder Wilderness Lodge at Strathgordon is the old Hydro workers accommodation which has been opened up for tourists. There is no town, so no facilities except for the lodge which serves drinks and meals, and sells fuel. The view is magnificent from the restaurant, bar and lounge. We were fortunate that we had struck some great weather – warm and clear for our first day there.

Lake Pedder.

We didn't have much of a view from our cabin but the bar boasts a fabulous outlook.

We explored the site and Mick chased some birds during the afternoon. We made dinner in our self-contained accommodation and ventured down to the bar for a “sundowner”. Such a nice way to end the day.

Lake Pedder from a nearby lookout.

On Wednesday morning we set off for the Gordon Dam – a short drive with more stunning views. Once we arrived at the dam wall, we were surprised to see a group setting up to abseil! Mick walked down the (approximately) 200 stairs to the top of the wall but my fear of heights kicked in and I bailed out before I even started. We spent a bit of time there enjoying the view and taking photos before heading back to the lodge. The forecast temperature was 29 ° so a restful afternoon was in order. The hot wind made it very unpleasant outside.

The Gordon Dam.

While there we witnessed this man abseiling down the dam wall.

There were lots of Tree Martins in the area.

In the evening we again enjoyed a drink in the bar as we watched the clouds gathering. Later, the rain began and continued on and off throughout the night and the next day. Unfortunately, the breaks between showers were only minutes in length, so there was no opportunity to go out for a walk. We did take a drive back down to the dam, but didn’t stay long in the blustery conditions.

A Tasmanian Scrubwren.

We left on Friday morning and made a stop at Mount Field National Park, for coffee in the nice café there. We had been out of phone and internet range while out at Strathgordon so there were a number of messages waiting for me. Julia had messaged to let us know that due to an injury (thankfully not serious), some of their Overland Track party had returned to Dove Lake, but she, Josh and Nick had continued on and had finished the walk ahead of schedule. They had picked up the car left by the others at Lake St Clair, and were already home in Devonport. We decided we might as well go up and stay at Derwent Bridge anyway, even though we were no longer required to provide transport.

Derwent Bridge

15 - 16 January 2016

We detoured via New Norfolk where we wandered around the shops. This is the place to go if you are after antiques – there are a number of antique shops a wide range of wares. We picnicked in the park and then drove towards Derwent Bridge. We stopped for afternoon smoko at Tarraleah – another old hydro town, now a tourist village.

On to Derwent Bridge and, after checking into the hotel, we visited the Wall in the Wilderness. This work in progress wood sculpture is amazing. The sculptor has left sections in various stages of completion so that visitors can get a true appreciation of the work involved. When complete the wall will measure 100 metres. We thought it was well worth the $12 per person entry fee.

In the afternoon I photographed this Echidna near the front of the pub. It's picking up some prickles as it feeds.

A young Spotted Pardalote near our room.

We enjoyed a hearty meal at the pub – in front of the open fire. Summer in Tasmania has many surprises! In the morning we drove the short distance up to Lake St Clair and walked the Watersmeet and Platypus Bay circuit, before lunch at the café then home to Devonport via Bronte Park and the Highland Lakes.

Lots of flowering Banksias along the walk

Bottlebrush were also in bloom

Stanley

23 - 24 January 2016

Julia and Josh were able to get time off work so we headed off for a family weekend away in Stanley, on the north coast. During the week, up to 100 bushfires blazed across Tasmania and the smoke had been clearly visible in Devonport. As we drove west along the Bass Highway, the air cleared, but the smoke was thick again when we reached Burnie, and persisted on and off throughout the weekend. We stopped in Wynyard to browse the two op-shops, as well as the splendid second-hand shop. We made our way to our beachside accommodation and settled in. Breathing the smoke, and the strong winds made it almost impossible to enjoy much outside time.

Smoke haze over Devonport

Smoke haze over Burnie

Sunset on West Inlet.

Yellow throated Honeyeater.

Brown Thornbill.

Little Wattlebird.

On Saturday morning we drove the few kilometres into the village and explored the many small shops - art,  craft, photography, produce and cafes were all well represented. We picked up some goodies for later in the day and had a coffee before heading back to our cottage. Mick and I did venture out across the road to have a look at East Inlet  (we were staying at West Inlet). It seemed more sheltered and less windy.

On Sunday morning we set off for home, stopping at Rocky Cape for markets (great potted herbs but not much else of interest to us) and the huge and well known, Penguin Markets which are well worth a visit for the amazing variety of wares.


Ross

25 - 26 January 2016

For our last week in Tasmania we decided on Bruny Island, with an overnight stop in Ross on the way there. We left the highway at Westbury and zig-zagged our way through a number of small towns which we would otherwise have missed, visiting op-shops and antiques shops along the way. We had a picnic lunch in Longford before making our way (finally) to Ross. After checking in to our accommodation, we wandered through the village visiting craft, antiques and old wares shops. We finished the day with dinner at the pub.


Bruny Island

26 - 29 January 2016

We set off early and drove south from Ross, with Bruny Island our final destination. On our way to Hobart we took a short detour to Gould's Lagoon in the hope of spotting some birds. This is freshwater wetland on the Derwent Estuary at Granton. We travelled on through Hobart and then to Kettering, stopping for a picnic lunch on the waterfront at Snug.

The Bruny Island Ferry runs to a timetable - except when it doesn't. Last time we travelled on a holiday weekend we found they weren't following the published timetable so we expected the same this time as it was Australia Day. We paid our $38 (usually $33 but extra for the public holiday) and asked about the next ferry departure time. The timetable said 1:30pm and this was confirmed. As it was only 12:10pm we had a bit of a wait so we parked the car in the queue and went into the cafe to order some food. While we were waiting there was a bit of a whisper go around about a change in time for the next ferry. I went outside and asked one of the ferry staff and he confirmed that they would start loading in a few minutes for a 12:30pm departure. Great for us as we didn't have much of a wait. Cafe staff happily made our order a take-away.

Yellow Wattlebird. This Tassie endemic proved hard to photograph.

Superb Fairy-wrens, Green Rosellas, Dusky Robins and this Olive Whistler were seen around our cabin.

The trip across the D'Entrecasteaux Channel takes about 15 minutes, the drive to Adventure Bay about 40. We found our accommodation and settled in for the afternoon. The weather for our stay on Bruny was not great so we didn't do as much as we had hoped. Bruny is becoming a bit of a "foodie" place. You can get local oysters, cheese, chocolate, wine, whiskey and a variety of other treats. We settled for cheese, chutney and fudge. Yum!

The Neck.

We did venture out to The Neck and climbed to the lookout which gives views across North and South Bruny. The many stairs were quite easy to climb - but our legs reminded us of our exertion for a few days after. We also checked out a couple of camps sites for future reference, as well as the Cape Bruny Lighthouse. Once again we enjoyed a lovely lunch at the pub - Hotel Bruny.

A shining Flycatcher seen in the National Park.

Cape Bruny near the Lighthouse.

Seals in the D'Entrecasteaux Channel.

We left Bruny Island and headed north, stopping at Oatlands for lunch. Many of the small towns are by-passed by the highway, but are well worth the short detours to visit. Most have a number of historic (often convict built) buildings or bridges, as well as some interesting shops. Driving through the midlands we passed through some ferocious storms which caused flooding in Launceston and on the east coast. Sadly, they did not reach the areas that were still experiencing devestating bushfires.

Back home to Devonport and time to get ready for our departure for our journey home, on Sunday.