Lonnavale - Snowy Range Wilderness Retreat

 20 - 22 January 2025

Our time is Tassie was coming to an end, and having missed out on a weekend on the Tasman Peninsula due to another pelagic cancellation (it was 4/0 for this trip) we decided on a couple of nights in the Huon Valley. We found a cabin on one of the booking sites which looked really nice. It was a fairly new listing and only had one review but we decided to take a chance anyway.

We left Hobart after morning tea and travelled up to Cascade Gardens for a look around. There was the possibility of some birding and there are a few walking tracks around. We spent some time there and stayed to have our  picnic lunch before setting off on the Huon Road.

The cabin is located on a former trout farm in Lonnavale so we travelled towards Huonville then turned off into the hills. We found the property and were met by one of the owners who showed us to the cabin. It was exactly as shown in the photos. The deck overlooked one of the old salmon ponds where we saw platypus.

It doesn't get much better than that!

The cabin is well set up with everything we needed and even had some fishing rods for those who may want to try their hand. We didn't - choosing instead to go for a walk around the lake, and sit on the deck contemplating the beautiful scenery. We were lucky with the weather too - not too cold, and with only a little rain overnight on the second night.

After two lovely nights in a true wilderness retreat we decided to take a drive further south to Hasting's Caves and Thermal Springs. We'd never been there before, but didnt want to visit the caves (Mick is very claustrophobic, nor did we want to swim in the thermal springs (too cold) but we did want to go on the short walk to look for birds.

There is a small charge to visit ($4 p/p concession) so we paid and spent our time on the Hot Springs Forest Walk where we saw where the water from the hot springs joins the cold creek water. It was a lovely walk but not terribly productive in terms of birding. We had lunch in the onsite cafe, before heading on to Southport.

It's only a short drive off the highway to Tasmania's southernmost town - Southport. We drove down to the beach, but didn't stay. From Southport we set off to return to Hobart without any more side-trips.

Part - Time Tasmanians

We would spend two long stretches of time in Hobart with our daughters from the end of 2022 until mid-way through 2023. We would become "part time Tasmanians" and enjoy life in the southern capital, but would also return to the mainland for a short trip around Victoria. Our first visit was at the beginning of December so we could spend Christmas and New Year with the girls, then we left at the end of February and returned again just prior to Easter. We would have our first winter in Tassie - something we were not entirely sure we would enjoy. Because we would be busy with building work, we didn't anticipate getting away much, but we would try to make the most of out time "down south". As it turned out, we did manage to fit in a few weekends away, as well as some special events.

                

A  Couple of  Graduations 

16 December 2022 and 28 April 2023

The first special occassion for us was daughter Julia's graduation -  Bachelor of Science (Majoring in Plant Science) in December, followed by Jo's graduation -  Bachelor of Antarctic and Marine Science  - in April. We were so pleased we were able to attend both University of Tasmania graduation ceremonies and immensely proud of both our girls. They both managed to get through with the challenges posed during Covid lock-downs and had to adapt to a different way of attending university, as well as working to support themselves. 

A Pelagic Weekend

16 - 19 December 2023

Mick is a keen bird photographer and had booked to go out on a pelagic boat trip leaving from Eaglehawk Neck. These are very popular and places fill up fast. He had arranged a spot for the Saturday and Sunday, when we were in Tasmania at the start of the year. Because the boat departs at 7:00am we booked to stay at Stewart's Bay on the Tasman Peninsula from Friday night to Monday morning. Mick is usually fine out on the water, but this time he did get seasick and contemplated missing the Sunday trip. Armed with some anti nausea medication provided by a fellow passenger, his second day was much better than the previous one. 

While Mick was at sea, I took a drive to Nubeena looking for the markets but coudn't find any sign of them so called into the supermarket before heading home. On the Sunday morning, the sky was bright and clear so, after I had dropped Mick off, I drove over to Devils Kitchen and set off on the Waterfall Bay Walk. This walk in 3.5km return and hugs the cliff line, affording some spectacular views. At one of the lookouts I could see the boat taking the birdwatchers out into the Southern Ocean. The walk is rated a Grade 3 but I found it to be quite easy and definitely worth it. After the walk I also visited Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen, which are both just a short walk from the carpark.

A Family Get-Together

27 - 30 January 2023

Back in 2020 I had planned a family get-together to celebrate my 60th birthday in May of that year, but Covid put an end to that plan, so it was decided to reschedule at the start of 2023. My sister and her partner would travel to Hobart and we would all spend a weekend on the Tasman Peninsula. The girls were both working in jobs that allowed them to be there from Friday night until Sunday afternoon so we were able to have a lovely few days together in a house on the edge of Safety Bay. Because of the timing, we were able to make it a combined 60th birthday (me), belated graduation (Julia), early graduation (Jo) and 65th birthday (Bronwyn). 

Bronwyn and John spent a day at the Port Arthur Historic Site, while we went for a walk with the girls to Point Puer, one of the stops on the boat tour from Port Arthur. It was a lovely walk along the beach and through the bush which gave an interesting perspective looking back at the historic site across the bay.

On Sunday, John stayed at home to work while the rest of us drove down to Remarkable Cave. We then went along the track to Maignon Blowhole and towards Mount Brown. Jo was keen to keep going but we talked her out of it - it looked too strenuous for us old folks. The girls left after an early dinner on Sunday night and we packed up and headed off on Monday morning.

Before leaving the Peninsula we called in to show the visitors The Blowhole and Tesselated Pavement. We had to keep moving as Bronwyn and John had a plane to catch but we did have time to watch (and photograph) some dolphins cruising in Denison Canal at Dunalley.

Aurora Australis

24 April 2023

I've long been fascinated by the aurora and have wanted to try to get a photograph of the Southern Lights, but when we have been in Tasmania over summer, that would have required staying up way too late. On the morning of 24 April we started to see reports, and photos, of Aurora Australis from about 4:00am, and visible to the naked eye. Julia consulted her sources and determined that conditions would be good that night so we headed out just after dark to Goat's Beach, out towards South Arm. 

The small carpark was packed but there was plenty of room on the beach to snag a spot and set up the tripod. It was really cold but we had rugged up in our puffer jackets and beanies. Julia and I only had our mobile phones but were very excited to see our first photos. We both took so many snaps - many of them destined for the recycle bin, but also a few quite acceptable ones. When we returned home, of course Mick was sorry he hadn't braved the cold to join us with a "proper" camera. Maybe next time. 

Another Pelagic Weekend 

29 April - 2 May 2023

Mick was able to book onto another pelagic thanks to some cancellations and Jo was to go with him. For this one it would be just the one day, but we booked an extra night's accommodation so we could make it into a short holiday. Jo stayed with her partner at Fortescue Bay, and we were at Taranna so she picked Mick up along the way.

The weather was perfect for this one, with reasonably calm seas - as calm as it can be out off the continental shelf anyway. With the sun shining I set off to visit the Coal Mines Historic Site. Not as well known, or as well develped as Port Arthur, this site is no less fascinating, and in a fabulous location on the Lime Bay.

At the entrance to Coal Mines Historic Site, a sign provides details of a number of walks. The walks, however, are not signed and once I started to make my way around the site I realised the walks are really just paths that take you from one point of interest to another. I walked around the bay to Plunkett Point then back the way I had come, and up the Incline Plain to the Mine Shaft. That part of the walk is a very steep uphill (of course) path that was once used to take wagons to and from the mine. At the Settlement, there are ruins of many buildings, including the Convict Barracks and the solitary confinement cells. All around the site, signage details not just the history of the Coal Mines, but personal stories of those were inprisoned there.

A Birthday Celebration

 6 May 2023

Having a birthday while in Hobart with family meant a celebratory brunch of pancakes, followed by presents! My sister had gifted me a High Tea at one of the hotels in town and we had booked for 3:00pm. We enjoyed a very fancy afternoon before heading home for a very quiet evening. No need for dinner that night!

Dark Mofo - Dark Park

9  June 2023

Dark Mofo has become a highlight of winter in Tasmania and provides a perfect excuse to get out and about when it's cold and dark. Sometimes controversial, always interesting, this was our first opportunity to experience this very popular festival.

We ventured out one Friday night to visit Dark Park - bars, food trucks and perfomances created a wonderful atmosphere. Everywhere we turned, both indoors and outdoors, was something weird, quirky and interesting. We started off in the Blue Velvet Lounge where we had drinks (of course), listened to some music and saw the Giant Teddy. From there we moved on to see a performance installation by Sundanese artists, instrument builders and alchemists. 

Our next stop was out into the cold, dark night to grab a bite to eat from one of the many food trucks and to marvel at the Spectra - a light installation that we could actually see from home. Our final stop of the night was to add our fears to the Ogoh-Ogoh : The Purging. Derived from a Balinese Hindu purification tradition, we wrote down our fears and banished them to the belly of the giant platypus.

A Birthday Getaway - Southport

15 - 18 June 2023

We have been down to the south of Tasmania a few times and wanted to return so booked three nights in a cottage on the edge of the forest at Southport. We've stayed there before and love the location but were not optimistic about the weather. When we arrived it was cold and cloudy so we were grateful that the fire had been set ready for us to light. 

Although the weather wasn't great we did manage to get out for a drive down to Roaring Beach one morning. We went for a walk along the beach and then along a bush track to an old graveyard. We continued around the headland then back along the track to the carpark. 

Mick spent some time at the cottage photographing birds but as we were both feeling unwell we didn't go out again until the day we left when we drove down to Lune River for a browse in the Lunaris Gemstones shop. They have some really interesting, mainly Tasmanian specimens for sale. 

From Lune River we headed back to Hobart and home in time to join the girls for another Dark Mofo excursion.

Dark Mofo - Winter Feast / Ogoh-Ogoh: The Procession / Ogoh-Ogoh :The Burning 

18 June 2023

We returned to Dark Mofo on the final night, starting with something to eat at Winter Feast, before taking part in the Ogoh-Ogoh procession. The giant platypus into which we had cast our fears on our visit to Dark Park, was carried through the streets from Winter Feast to Dark Park, accompanied by musicians, other giant creatures and members of the public who were encouraged to join in. 

It was such a fun event and something totally different to anything I had been part of previously. Once we arrived at Dark Park we joined the huge crowd to await the spectacle that was The Burning, where the giant platypus, with all our fears inside, was set ablaze. What a sight! It was such fun to be able to take part in this wonderful winter festival.

Celebrating a Wedding Anniversary - Cradle Mountain

28 June - 1 July 2020

We decided to celebrate our wedding anniversary at Cradle Mountain and were able to get a great deal on accommodation at one of our favourite places to stay - Cradle Mountain Wilderness Village. We hoped that visiting in winter might mean we would see some snow so we watched the forecast closely. Unfortunately it wasn't looking good. We did see that snow was predicted to fall on the morning that we were to arrive so we made the decision to leave Hobart as early as possible.

We were on the road around 7:00am and headed up the Midland Highway with a stop in Campbell Town for morning tea. We continued on and turned off to Sheffield where we had an early lunch at the bakery. Once we arrived at Cradle Mountain we stopped at the Visitor Centre to get our bus tickets and headed straight up to Dove Lake. So far, no sign of snow. We debated whether to get off the bus at Ronny Creek and go looking for wombats, but decided to keep going to Dove Lake.

Finally we had made the right decision - as we approached the bus stop the first few flakes of snow started to fall. In the end it wasn't much - just enough to take a few photos to show we had been snowed on as we walked. It didn't last long so we hopped back on the bus and went back down to Ronny Creek to hang out with the wombats for a while.

The weather was pretty awful for the rest of our stay so we didn't venture out again, instead relaxing and enjoying the view out to the bush and the visiting currawongs. The on-site restaurant had just reopened so we had dinner there to celebrate our 38th wedding anniversary. The meal was delicious and we were seated by the fire which made for a very nice night.

On the morning we left, the weather was a little better so we went up to the Enchanted Walk - a short, easy walk, but always a favourite. Back on the road we had lunch in Sheffield again before driving back home to Hobart.

Yet another Pelagic

14 - 16 July 2023

Mick was fortunate to be able to get a spot on another Pelagic out of Eaglehawk Neck so we booked to have a weekend at Mason's Cottages at Taranna. The cottages are conveniently located just as short drive from the departure point for the boat trip.

We drove out to the Tasman Peninsula after lunch and were delighted to find that we had been upgraded from a studio apartment to a 2 bedroom cottage. It was so nice to have the extra room for our two night stay. The weather was cold but the cottage was warm and very well equipped.

On Saturday morning I dropped Mick off at the Pirate's Bay boat ramp and headed back to the cottage. The weather wasn't great so I decided against going out to do one of the many walks around. Instead I pottered around at the cottage before collecting Mick from the jetty at 3:00pm. Our visit coincided with the Lightwave Festival and we toyed with the idea of heading over for dinner but decided to stay in.

On Sunday morning we packed up and went for a drive to Nubeena and White Beach and stopped in at the Pear Shed. There is an onsite cafe - really just a coffee van and some outdoor seating - and a gallery with some interesting artworks. From there we headed home, making a few stops along the way to look for birds - of course. This would be our final excursion from Hobart before leaving in August.

Southport

 28 February – 2 March 2022

The trip from Adventure Bay on Bruny Island to Southport only takes a couple of hours, even allowing for the ferry, so we arrived at Huonville well before lunchtime. Huonville is a fairly large centre so we took the time to do some grocery shopping as well as browse the nearby shops. From there we drove down to a picnic spot on the river for lunch. There is a nice shelter, as well as toilets and playground, along with ample parking. This has become one of our regular stops along this way.

We continued on to Southport and checked into the caravan park attached to the hotel. This is the southern-most hotel in Australia (although the Bruny Island pub claims this title also). We spent the afternoon wandering around the grounds checking out the pond and nearby scrub for birds.

It had always been our plan to have dinner at the pub, so we wandered up and enjoyed dinner and drinks – generous serves and good service as always. Mask wearing was still mandatory in Tasmania so we didn’t linger once we’d finished our meals and drinks. There had been rain about so we weren’t surprised to hear rain on the canvas roof during the night.

Despite the cloudy skies and drizzle we decided to head down to Cockle Creek (the end of the road). We wanted to have a good look at the numerous campgrounds on the way with a view to camping in a few days’ time, if the weather improved. We found there are lots of campgrounds that would have suited us very well, but the weather forecast indicated more rain.

While we were at Cockle Creek – in the Southwest National Park – we walked down to have a look at the Whale Sculpture, and then walked along the beach, passing a number of national park campsites. Many of these are only suitable for self-contained vehicles. By the time we walked back to the road to return to the car, the rain had started again.

Driving back towards Southport we took a detour to have a look at Southport Lagoon. Unfortunately the road we took travelled along beside the Southport Lagoon Conservation Area, but terminated before we were able to see the lagoon. We decided not to take the other road a bit further along, even though it promised the campground and most likely the lagoon. It was lunch time so we just headed back to camp.

There is a walking path that goes from the Southport Hotel to the jetty so we followed it all the way, and went for a walk on the jetty. The rain persisted, on and off, throughout the evening and through the night but we were hopeful that the sky would be clear in the morning. No such luck. We did some packing up and requested a late check out in the hope that we could dry things out a little. We were able to stay long enough for the sky to clear and the breeze to assist. Everything was damp, but not wet when we finally folded up the trailer.

Back on the road and we were hopeful we could get a spot at Riversedge Camping at Lonnavale. We took a scenic drive along the coast from Dover – another road we had never travelled on before – and rejoined the highway at Franklin. We stopped at the Franklin Regatta Grounds for lunch. Another beautiful spot on the Huon River – with a picnic shelter and toilets. BBQs and even a sink were also provided.

We called ahead to Riversedge and set off towards Huonville again.

Tasmania - Devonport, Leith, Southport, Port Arthur

Devonport 

We set off from Bendigo and into Melbourne, bound for the overnight ferry to Tasmania. We arrived early and found (very expensive) parking on the beach not far from Station Pier where we would board the Spirit of Tasmania. We had coffee and ice cream, and a walk along the beachfront before heading down to the wharf just on 5:00pm. For the 7:00pm departure, check-in commences at 5:00 and arriving close to this time ensured we were quickly though quarantine and checked-in ready to board. We ended up on garage deck 2 again – this is one of the small “under decks” where you can’t drive-on, drive-off like on the upper decks. Staff skilfully direct drivers to drive in or turn around into a comparatively tiny space. The reverse when arriving at Devonport is achieved with the same degree of precision.

We boarded early and found our cabin for the trip. I prefer the privacy of a cabin, especially as I tend to get a little queasy. This time the forecast was for a calm crossing so we were looking forward to a nice night. We had a couple of drinks and a light meal of pizza in one of the bars before retiring for the night. We enjoyed a good night’s sleep on calm seas. Rising early to shower and pack up, we ventured to get a cup of tea. Last time we tried the coffee which was dreadful so stuck to tea this time. In retrospect we should have brought our own favourite tea bags. We must remember to do that next time.

We arrived in Devonport and were disembarked and at Julia’s house just after 7:00 am. The day was cold and rainy – quite miserable after the warm sunshine we left the day before. We settled in, looking forward to time with our daughter and some Tasmanian adventures. We would use Devonport as our base and venture out from there.

11 December

The Cherry Shed -  It was cherry season so we checked in at the Cherry Shed at Latrobe after visiting the markets nearby. We had coffee as well as apple and cherry pie for morning tea. They sell lots of cherry products as well as fresh cherries when in season. Unfortunately we were a few days too early, with fresh cherries available from about 15 December.

Leith

14 – 16 December

We rented a beach house at Leith, just 15 minutes from Devonport for a couple of days away with Julia and Josh. We spent Thursday morning in Ulverstone, 15 minutes away, visiting op-shops and doing some shopping. We walked along the beach, only to find that there is virtually no sand until you get to the mouth of the Forth River. It was a pleasant walk, although quite tricky in parts on the small smooth rocks that cover the water’s edge. It is a beautiful spot and we very much enjoyed the ocean view.

A short walk along the beach brought us to the Forth River.

Little Wattlebirds were common in the garden. The orange colouration on the forehead is pollen.

We saw this young Bandicoot on a night walk. I think it is an Eastern Barred.

Southport

16 – 18 December

We left Leith, dropped Julia off in Devonport and were on our way south by 9:00am. We had to drive the entire length of Tasmania which is actually quite achievable and a bit of a novelty for Queenslanders. We stopped at Campbell Town for coffee and drove though Hobart to Franklin for a late picnic lunch. We arrived at our accommodation in Southport with blue skies above. The cottage we rented is nestled in the bush and well resourced. The owner showed us around, and explained that the wood fire was ready for the expected cold night. Yes, we did light the fire and were glad of it.

Taken as we drove by; the Sapphire Princess moored in Hobart harbour.

I would thoroughly recommend a stay at this cabin.

It was cold outside and cosy inside.

On Saturday morning we drove down to Cockle Creek. That’s as far south as you can go by car. It’s a lovely drive through forests and along the shore of Recherche Bay. We were saddened, however, to see a large block of recently cleared forest. Tasmania is home to the most beautiful forests but the government persists in allowing logging and clearing. We just don’t understand it.

Cockle Bay is a pretty little spot, with lots of camping areas within the National Park. A park office was manned by a volunteer and we used the available phone signal to buy a National Parks Pass. We always buy a 2 month pass, which at $60 is good value. It allows us to visit all National Parks, and even includes the shuttle bus at Cradle Mountain. We didn’t spend much time at Cockle Creek as the sky was darkening and rain was starting to fall.

Pademelon with joey.

We returned to Southport and had lunch at the pub. This pub and the one at Adventure Bay on Bruny Island, both lay claim to being the southernmost pub in Australia. Look at the map and decide for yourself. We sat by the fire as the outside temperature was only 12 degrees at midday. Once we arrived home, we lit the fire again and snuggled in for the afternoon.

Black-headed Honeyeater

Tasmanian Thornbill

Strong-billed Honeyeater were common around the cabin.

New Holland Honeyeater

Scarlet Robin visited the cabin several times.

Yum!

These curvilinear branches caught my eye.

After another very cold night, snug and warm with the fire going, we packed up ready to head off for Port Arthur. Before leaving Southport we took a drive out along Lady Bay Road on the suggestion of the cottage owner, looking for birds. We weren’t all that surprised to see snow on the mountains in the near distance.

A dusting of snow on the high peaks. Impressive to a couple of North Queenslanders.

The coast at Southport. It's a shame the sun went behind the clouds.

Stewart’s Bay – Port Arthur

18 – 21 December

We took our time getting to the Tasman Peninsular, with a long stop at Geeveston for lunch and a look around the shops as well as some shopping at Huonville and Kingston. On through Hobart and on the road to Port Arthur, where we stopped at Eaglehawk Neck for a (very) quick walk on the beach in a strong wind, and a look at the small museum. This museum is set up in the Officer’s Quarters, thought to be the oldest military building in Australia. This is the site of the Dogline – a line of ferocious dogs and a detachment of military officers who once guarded the narrow isthmus at Eaglehawk Neck to prevent convicts from escaping from the prison at Port Arthur. By all accounts this was very successful.

We had arrived on a beautiful day and took a walk around the grounds past some stunning coastal views.

Echidna. On a walk around the grounds at Stewart’s Bay Lodge.

There is one Tasmanian endemic bird I would love to get a good photo of, the Yellow Wattlebird. In my experience they prefer to remain very high in the canopies of tall Blue Gums though I have seen them lower down. Without my camera handy, of course. There were plenty around at Stewart’s Bay and the whole time we were there, they taunted me from on high with their loud, raucous calls.

Lucky for me, there were some other birds to practice on. Mick

Green Rosella. A Tassie endemic. Young birds are very green.

Grey Butcherbird. From the verandah of our cabin.

A young Yellow-throated Honeyeater (endemic). From the verandah of our cabin.

Male Superb Fairywren. From the verandah of our cabin.

Our cabin at Stewart’s Bay had a lovely view of bushland and the beach beyond. On Monday morning we decided to visit the Port Arthur Historic Site. I had visited before but this was Mick’s first time. We spent the best part of a day exploring the convict ruins and the stories of the penal settlement, as well as the village that emerged after its closure. We were amused to be asked on entry how we had heard about Port Arthur and found it impossible to answer – as Australians we have always known about it. This is a fascinating look into Australia’s brutal convict past which some may find confronting at times. The information provided gives a real insight into conditions imposed on prisoners, military officers and their families. These personal stories make for very interesting reading.

The ruins of the Penitentiary. Female Superb Fairywren on the fence.

The ruins of the Penitentiary from the military district looking up towards the church. The law courts on the left.

The Commandant’s House on the left and the Penitentiary on the right.

A team of archeologists are excavating the former ablutions block and exercise yards.

Modern pavers show where cell walls would have stood. Metal framework prevents further deterioration.

Wonderful colours and textures in brick, sandstone and plaster can be found around the old buildings.

Guard towers in the military district from the law courts

The law courts.

Standard entry into the site includes a guided walking tour and a boat trip out into the bay, past Point Puer Boys’ Prison and the Isle of the Dead Cemetery. There is an option to include tours of these two sites as well. Many of the houses and buildings are also open and set up to reflect their former uses. The interpretive information is excellent and well worth the time needed to read everything available. Entry is valid for two consecutive days so there is no need to rush.

The cruise boat and the Isle of the Dead in the distance. The Isle of the Dead was the cemetery for the settlement.

The Trentham cottage (1898-1904) is presented as it would have been in the day with a vegetable garden and chickens in the backyard.

There are regular ghost tours on the site. In keeping with the spirit of the place, I took these atmospheric portraits of Christie.

On Tuesday we went on a drive back to Eaglehawk Neck to see the Tessellated Pavement, Blowhole, Tasman’s Arch and Devil’s Kitchen. These geological features provide another view of the ferocious Southern Ocean as it crashes against the rocks. It’s a great insight into how erosion really works. We spent the afternoon around Stewart's Bay enjoying the peaceful surrounds.

Tessellated Pavement

Tessellated Pavement. A few brave blokes were surfing the break that can be seen off the point on the left.

Not a place I would choose to dress up as a seal.

The beautiful Stewart's Bay beach.

 On the way home we had a look at White Beach and I found a couple of sea birds to photograph.

On the way home I photographed this Black-faced Cormorant at White Beach. It wasn't until I uploaded the shots to my computer that I realized it was tangled in fishing net.

Hard to swallow. This Pacific Gull took a few goes to gulp down a whole fish. White Beach, Tasman Peninsula.

We set off for home in Devonport on Wednesday morning, with a stop in Sorrell for coffee and Ross for lunch at the pub. Distances between towns are generally short so it is usually easy to find a nice spot to stop.