Tasmania - Devonport, Leith, Southport, Port Arthur

Devonport 

We set off from Bendigo and into Melbourne, bound for the overnight ferry to Tasmania. We arrived early and found (very expensive) parking on the beach not far from Station Pier where we would board the Spirit of Tasmania. We had coffee and ice cream, and a walk along the beachfront before heading down to the wharf just on 5:00pm. For the 7:00pm departure, check-in commences at 5:00 and arriving close to this time ensured we were quickly though quarantine and checked-in ready to board. We ended up on garage deck 2 again – this is one of the small “under decks” where you can’t drive-on, drive-off like on the upper decks. Staff skilfully direct drivers to drive in or turn around into a comparatively tiny space. The reverse when arriving at Devonport is achieved with the same degree of precision.

We boarded early and found our cabin for the trip. I prefer the privacy of a cabin, especially as I tend to get a little queasy. This time the forecast was for a calm crossing so we were looking forward to a nice night. We had a couple of drinks and a light meal of pizza in one of the bars before retiring for the night. We enjoyed a good night’s sleep on calm seas. Rising early to shower and pack up, we ventured to get a cup of tea. Last time we tried the coffee which was dreadful so stuck to tea this time. In retrospect we should have brought our own favourite tea bags. We must remember to do that next time.

We arrived in Devonport and were disembarked and at Julia’s house just after 7:00 am. The day was cold and rainy – quite miserable after the warm sunshine we left the day before. We settled in, looking forward to time with our daughter and some Tasmanian adventures. We would use Devonport as our base and venture out from there.

11 December

The Cherry Shed -  It was cherry season so we checked in at the Cherry Shed at Latrobe after visiting the markets nearby. We had coffee as well as apple and cherry pie for morning tea. They sell lots of cherry products as well as fresh cherries when in season. Unfortunately we were a few days too early, with fresh cherries available from about 15 December.

Leith

14 – 16 December

We rented a beach house at Leith, just 15 minutes from Devonport for a couple of days away with Julia and Josh. We spent Thursday morning in Ulverstone, 15 minutes away, visiting op-shops and doing some shopping. We walked along the beach, only to find that there is virtually no sand until you get to the mouth of the Forth River. It was a pleasant walk, although quite tricky in parts on the small smooth rocks that cover the water’s edge. It is a beautiful spot and we very much enjoyed the ocean view.

A short walk along the beach brought us to the Forth River.

Little Wattlebirds were common in the garden. The orange colouration on the forehead is pollen.

We saw this young Bandicoot on a night walk. I think it is an Eastern Barred.

Southport

16 – 18 December

We left Leith, dropped Julia off in Devonport and were on our way south by 9:00am. We had to drive the entire length of Tasmania which is actually quite achievable and a bit of a novelty for Queenslanders. We stopped at Campbell Town for coffee and drove though Hobart to Franklin for a late picnic lunch. We arrived at our accommodation in Southport with blue skies above. The cottage we rented is nestled in the bush and well resourced. The owner showed us around, and explained that the wood fire was ready for the expected cold night. Yes, we did light the fire and were glad of it.

Taken as we drove by; the Sapphire Princess moored in Hobart harbour.

I would thoroughly recommend a stay at this cabin.

It was cold outside and cosy inside.

On Saturday morning we drove down to Cockle Creek. That’s as far south as you can go by car. It’s a lovely drive through forests and along the shore of Recherche Bay. We were saddened, however, to see a large block of recently cleared forest. Tasmania is home to the most beautiful forests but the government persists in allowing logging and clearing. We just don’t understand it.

Cockle Bay is a pretty little spot, with lots of camping areas within the National Park. A park office was manned by a volunteer and we used the available phone signal to buy a National Parks Pass. We always buy a 2 month pass, which at $60 is good value. It allows us to visit all National Parks, and even includes the shuttle bus at Cradle Mountain. We didn’t spend much time at Cockle Creek as the sky was darkening and rain was starting to fall.

Pademelon with joey.

We returned to Southport and had lunch at the pub. This pub and the one at Adventure Bay on Bruny Island, both lay claim to being the southernmost pub in Australia. Look at the map and decide for yourself. We sat by the fire as the outside temperature was only 12 degrees at midday. Once we arrived home, we lit the fire again and snuggled in for the afternoon.

Black-headed Honeyeater

Tasmanian Thornbill

Strong-billed Honeyeater were common around the cabin.

New Holland Honeyeater

Scarlet Robin visited the cabin several times.

Yum!

These curvilinear branches caught my eye.

After another very cold night, snug and warm with the fire going, we packed up ready to head off for Port Arthur. Before leaving Southport we took a drive out along Lady Bay Road on the suggestion of the cottage owner, looking for birds. We weren’t all that surprised to see snow on the mountains in the near distance.

A dusting of snow on the high peaks. Impressive to a couple of North Queenslanders.

The coast at Southport. It's a shame the sun went behind the clouds.

Stewart’s Bay – Port Arthur

18 – 21 December

We took our time getting to the Tasman Peninsular, with a long stop at Geeveston for lunch and a look around the shops as well as some shopping at Huonville and Kingston. On through Hobart and on the road to Port Arthur, where we stopped at Eaglehawk Neck for a (very) quick walk on the beach in a strong wind, and a look at the small museum. This museum is set up in the Officer’s Quarters, thought to be the oldest military building in Australia. This is the site of the Dogline – a line of ferocious dogs and a detachment of military officers who once guarded the narrow isthmus at Eaglehawk Neck to prevent convicts from escaping from the prison at Port Arthur. By all accounts this was very successful.

We had arrived on a beautiful day and took a walk around the grounds past some stunning coastal views.

Echidna. On a walk around the grounds at Stewart’s Bay Lodge.

There is one Tasmanian endemic bird I would love to get a good photo of, the Yellow Wattlebird. In my experience they prefer to remain very high in the canopies of tall Blue Gums though I have seen them lower down. Without my camera handy, of course. There were plenty around at Stewart’s Bay and the whole time we were there, they taunted me from on high with their loud, raucous calls.

Lucky for me, there were some other birds to practice on. Mick

Green Rosella. A Tassie endemic. Young birds are very green.

Grey Butcherbird. From the verandah of our cabin.

A young Yellow-throated Honeyeater (endemic). From the verandah of our cabin.

Male Superb Fairywren. From the verandah of our cabin.

Our cabin at Stewart’s Bay had a lovely view of bushland and the beach beyond. On Monday morning we decided to visit the Port Arthur Historic Site. I had visited before but this was Mick’s first time. We spent the best part of a day exploring the convict ruins and the stories of the penal settlement, as well as the village that emerged after its closure. We were amused to be asked on entry how we had heard about Port Arthur and found it impossible to answer – as Australians we have always known about it. This is a fascinating look into Australia’s brutal convict past which some may find confronting at times. The information provided gives a real insight into conditions imposed on prisoners, military officers and their families. These personal stories make for very interesting reading.

The ruins of the Penitentiary. Female Superb Fairywren on the fence.

The ruins of the Penitentiary from the military district looking up towards the church. The law courts on the left.

The Commandant’s House on the left and the Penitentiary on the right.

A team of archeologists are excavating the former ablutions block and exercise yards.

Modern pavers show where cell walls would have stood. Metal framework prevents further deterioration.

Wonderful colours and textures in brick, sandstone and plaster can be found around the old buildings.

Guard towers in the military district from the law courts

The law courts.

Standard entry into the site includes a guided walking tour and a boat trip out into the bay, past Point Puer Boys’ Prison and the Isle of the Dead Cemetery. There is an option to include tours of these two sites as well. Many of the houses and buildings are also open and set up to reflect their former uses. The interpretive information is excellent and well worth the time needed to read everything available. Entry is valid for two consecutive days so there is no need to rush.

The cruise boat and the Isle of the Dead in the distance. The Isle of the Dead was the cemetery for the settlement.

The Trentham cottage (1898-1904) is presented as it would have been in the day with a vegetable garden and chickens in the backyard.

There are regular ghost tours on the site. In keeping with the spirit of the place, I took these atmospheric portraits of Christie.

On Tuesday we went on a drive back to Eaglehawk Neck to see the Tessellated Pavement, Blowhole, Tasman’s Arch and Devil’s Kitchen. These geological features provide another view of the ferocious Southern Ocean as it crashes against the rocks. It’s a great insight into how erosion really works. We spent the afternoon around Stewart's Bay enjoying the peaceful surrounds.

Tessellated Pavement

Tessellated Pavement. A few brave blokes were surfing the break that can be seen off the point on the left.

Not a place I would choose to dress up as a seal.

The beautiful Stewart's Bay beach.

 On the way home we had a look at White Beach and I found a couple of sea birds to photograph.

On the way home I photographed this Black-faced Cormorant at White Beach. It wasn't until I uploaded the shots to my computer that I realized it was tangled in fishing net.

Hard to swallow. This Pacific Gull took a few goes to gulp down a whole fish. White Beach, Tasman Peninsula.

We set off for home in Devonport on Wednesday morning, with a stop in Sorrell for coffee and Ross for lunch at the pub. Distances between towns are generally short so it is usually easy to find a nice spot to stop.