Lonnavale - Snowy Range Wilderness Retreat

 20 - 22 January 2025

Our time is Tassie was coming to an end, and having missed out on a weekend on the Tasman Peninsula due to another pelagic cancellation (it was 4/0 for this trip) we decided on a couple of nights in the Huon Valley. We found a cabin on one of the booking sites which looked really nice. It was a fairly new listing and only had one review but we decided to take a chance anyway.

We left Hobart after morning tea and travelled up to Cascade Gardens for a look around. There was the possibility of some birding and there are a few walking tracks around. We spent some time there and stayed to have our  picnic lunch before setting off on the Huon Road.

The cabin is located on a former trout farm in Lonnavale so we travelled towards Huonville then turned off into the hills. We found the property and were met by one of the owners who showed us to the cabin. It was exactly as shown in the photos. The deck overlooked one of the old salmon ponds where we saw platypus.

It doesn't get much better than that!

The cabin is well set up with everything we needed and even had some fishing rods for those who may want to try their hand. We didn't - choosing instead to go for a walk around the lake, and sit on the deck contemplating the beautiful scenery. We were lucky with the weather too - not too cold, and with only a little rain overnight on the second night.

After two lovely nights in a true wilderness retreat we decided to take a drive further south to Hasting's Caves and Thermal Springs. We'd never been there before, but didnt want to visit the caves (Mick is very claustrophobic, nor did we want to swim in the thermal springs (too cold) but we did want to go on the short walk to look for birds.

There is a small charge to visit ($4 p/p concession) so we paid and spent our time on the Hot Springs Forest Walk where we saw where the water from the hot springs joins the cold creek water. It was a lovely walk but not terribly productive in terms of birding. We had lunch in the onsite cafe, before heading on to Southport.

It's only a short drive off the highway to Tasmania's southernmost town - Southport. We drove down to the beach, but didn't stay. From Southport we set off to return to Hobart without any more side-trips.

Part - Time Tasmanians

We would spend two long stretches of time in Hobart with our daughters from the end of 2022 until mid-way through 2023. We would become "part time Tasmanians" and enjoy life in the southern capital, but would also return to the mainland for a short trip around Victoria. Our first visit was at the beginning of December so we could spend Christmas and New Year with the girls, then we left at the end of February and returned again just prior to Easter. We would have our first winter in Tassie - something we were not entirely sure we would enjoy. Because we would be busy with building work, we didn't anticipate getting away much, but we would try to make the most of out time "down south". As it turned out, we did manage to fit in a few weekends away, as well as some special events.

                

A  Couple of  Graduations 

16 December 2022 and 28 April 2023

The first special occassion for us was daughter Julia's graduation -  Bachelor of Science (Majoring in Plant Science) in December, followed by Jo's graduation -  Bachelor of Antarctic and Marine Science  - in April. We were so pleased we were able to attend both University of Tasmania graduation ceremonies and immensely proud of both our girls. They both managed to get through with the challenges posed during Covid lock-downs and had to adapt to a different way of attending university, as well as working to support themselves. 

A Pelagic Weekend

16 - 19 December 2023

Mick is a keen bird photographer and had booked to go out on a pelagic boat trip leaving from Eaglehawk Neck. These are very popular and places fill up fast. He had arranged a spot for the Saturday and Sunday, when we were in Tasmania at the start of the year. Because the boat departs at 7:00am we booked to stay at Stewart's Bay on the Tasman Peninsula from Friday night to Monday morning. Mick is usually fine out on the water, but this time he did get seasick and contemplated missing the Sunday trip. Armed with some anti nausea medication provided by a fellow passenger, his second day was much better than the previous one. 

While Mick was at sea, I took a drive to Nubeena looking for the markets but coudn't find any sign of them so called into the supermarket before heading home. On the Sunday morning, the sky was bright and clear so, after I had dropped Mick off, I drove over to Devils Kitchen and set off on the Waterfall Bay Walk. This walk in 3.5km return and hugs the cliff line, affording some spectacular views. At one of the lookouts I could see the boat taking the birdwatchers out into the Southern Ocean. The walk is rated a Grade 3 but I found it to be quite easy and definitely worth it. After the walk I also visited Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen, which are both just a short walk from the carpark.

A Family Get-Together

27 - 30 January 2023

Back in 2020 I had planned a family get-together to celebrate my 60th birthday in May of that year, but Covid put an end to that plan, so it was decided to reschedule at the start of 2023. My sister and her partner would travel to Hobart and we would all spend a weekend on the Tasman Peninsula. The girls were both working in jobs that allowed them to be there from Friday night until Sunday afternoon so we were able to have a lovely few days together in a house on the edge of Safety Bay. Because of the timing, we were able to make it a combined 60th birthday (me), belated graduation (Julia), early graduation (Jo) and 65th birthday (Bronwyn). 

Bronwyn and John spent a day at the Port Arthur Historic Site, while we went for a walk with the girls to Point Puer, one of the stops on the boat tour from Port Arthur. It was a lovely walk along the beach and through the bush which gave an interesting perspective looking back at the historic site across the bay.

On Sunday, John stayed at home to work while the rest of us drove down to Remarkable Cave. We then went along the track to Maignon Blowhole and towards Mount Brown. Jo was keen to keep going but we talked her out of it - it looked too strenuous for us old folks. The girls left after an early dinner on Sunday night and we packed up and headed off on Monday morning.

Before leaving the Peninsula we called in to show the visitors The Blowhole and Tesselated Pavement. We had to keep moving as Bronwyn and John had a plane to catch but we did have time to watch (and photograph) some dolphins cruising in Denison Canal at Dunalley.

Aurora Australis

24 April 2023

I've long been fascinated by the aurora and have wanted to try to get a photograph of the Southern Lights, but when we have been in Tasmania over summer, that would have required staying up way too late. On the morning of 24 April we started to see reports, and photos, of Aurora Australis from about 4:00am, and visible to the naked eye. Julia consulted her sources and determined that conditions would be good that night so we headed out just after dark to Goat's Beach, out towards South Arm. 

The small carpark was packed but there was plenty of room on the beach to snag a spot and set up the tripod. It was really cold but we had rugged up in our puffer jackets and beanies. Julia and I only had our mobile phones but were very excited to see our first photos. We both took so many snaps - many of them destined for the recycle bin, but also a few quite acceptable ones. When we returned home, of course Mick was sorry he hadn't braved the cold to join us with a "proper" camera. Maybe next time. 

Another Pelagic Weekend 

29 April - 2 May 2023

Mick was able to book onto another pelagic thanks to some cancellations and Jo was to go with him. For this one it would be just the one day, but we booked an extra night's accommodation so we could make it into a short holiday. Jo stayed with her partner at Fortescue Bay, and we were at Taranna so she picked Mick up along the way.

The weather was perfect for this one, with reasonably calm seas - as calm as it can be out off the continental shelf anyway. With the sun shining I set off to visit the Coal Mines Historic Site. Not as well known, or as well develped as Port Arthur, this site is no less fascinating, and in a fabulous location on the Lime Bay.

At the entrance to Coal Mines Historic Site, a sign provides details of a number of walks. The walks, however, are not signed and once I started to make my way around the site I realised the walks are really just paths that take you from one point of interest to another. I walked around the bay to Plunkett Point then back the way I had come, and up the Incline Plain to the Mine Shaft. That part of the walk is a very steep uphill (of course) path that was once used to take wagons to and from the mine. At the Settlement, there are ruins of many buildings, including the Convict Barracks and the solitary confinement cells. All around the site, signage details not just the history of the Coal Mines, but personal stories of those were inprisoned there.

A Birthday Celebration

 6 May 2023

Having a birthday while in Hobart with family meant a celebratory brunch of pancakes, followed by presents! My sister had gifted me a High Tea at one of the hotels in town and we had booked for 3:00pm. We enjoyed a very fancy afternoon before heading home for a very quiet evening. No need for dinner that night!

Dark Mofo - Dark Park

9  June 2023

Dark Mofo has become a highlight of winter in Tasmania and provides a perfect excuse to get out and about when it's cold and dark. Sometimes controversial, always interesting, this was our first opportunity to experience this very popular festival.

We ventured out one Friday night to visit Dark Park - bars, food trucks and perfomances created a wonderful atmosphere. Everywhere we turned, both indoors and outdoors, was something weird, quirky and interesting. We started off in the Blue Velvet Lounge where we had drinks (of course), listened to some music and saw the Giant Teddy. From there we moved on to see a performance installation by Sundanese artists, instrument builders and alchemists. 

Our next stop was out into the cold, dark night to grab a bite to eat from one of the many food trucks and to marvel at the Spectra - a light installation that we could actually see from home. Our final stop of the night was to add our fears to the Ogoh-Ogoh : The Purging. Derived from a Balinese Hindu purification tradition, we wrote down our fears and banished them to the belly of the giant platypus.

A Birthday Getaway - Southport

15 - 18 June 2023

We have been down to the south of Tasmania a few times and wanted to return so booked three nights in a cottage on the edge of the forest at Southport. We've stayed there before and love the location but were not optimistic about the weather. When we arrived it was cold and cloudy so we were grateful that the fire had been set ready for us to light. 

Although the weather wasn't great we did manage to get out for a drive down to Roaring Beach one morning. We went for a walk along the beach and then along a bush track to an old graveyard. We continued around the headland then back along the track to the carpark. 

Mick spent some time at the cottage photographing birds but as we were both feeling unwell we didn't go out again until the day we left when we drove down to Lune River for a browse in the Lunaris Gemstones shop. They have some really interesting, mainly Tasmanian specimens for sale. 

From Lune River we headed back to Hobart and home in time to join the girls for another Dark Mofo excursion.

Dark Mofo - Winter Feast / Ogoh-Ogoh: The Procession / Ogoh-Ogoh :The Burning 

18 June 2023

We returned to Dark Mofo on the final night, starting with something to eat at Winter Feast, before taking part in the Ogoh-Ogoh procession. The giant platypus into which we had cast our fears on our visit to Dark Park, was carried through the streets from Winter Feast to Dark Park, accompanied by musicians, other giant creatures and members of the public who were encouraged to join in. 

It was such a fun event and something totally different to anything I had been part of previously. Once we arrived at Dark Park we joined the huge crowd to await the spectacle that was The Burning, where the giant platypus, with all our fears inside, was set ablaze. What a sight! It was such fun to be able to take part in this wonderful winter festival.

Celebrating a Wedding Anniversary - Cradle Mountain

28 June - 1 July 2020

We decided to celebrate our wedding anniversary at Cradle Mountain and were able to get a great deal on accommodation at one of our favourite places to stay - Cradle Mountain Wilderness Village. We hoped that visiting in winter might mean we would see some snow so we watched the forecast closely. Unfortunately it wasn't looking good. We did see that snow was predicted to fall on the morning that we were to arrive so we made the decision to leave Hobart as early as possible.

We were on the road around 7:00am and headed up the Midland Highway with a stop in Campbell Town for morning tea. We continued on and turned off to Sheffield where we had an early lunch at the bakery. Once we arrived at Cradle Mountain we stopped at the Visitor Centre to get our bus tickets and headed straight up to Dove Lake. So far, no sign of snow. We debated whether to get off the bus at Ronny Creek and go looking for wombats, but decided to keep going to Dove Lake.

Finally we had made the right decision - as we approached the bus stop the first few flakes of snow started to fall. In the end it wasn't much - just enough to take a few photos to show we had been snowed on as we walked. It didn't last long so we hopped back on the bus and went back down to Ronny Creek to hang out with the wombats for a while.

The weather was pretty awful for the rest of our stay so we didn't venture out again, instead relaxing and enjoying the view out to the bush and the visiting currawongs. The on-site restaurant had just reopened so we had dinner there to celebrate our 38th wedding anniversary. The meal was delicious and we were seated by the fire which made for a very nice night.

On the morning we left, the weather was a little better so we went up to the Enchanted Walk - a short, easy walk, but always a favourite. Back on the road we had lunch in Sheffield again before driving back home to Hobart.

Yet another Pelagic

14 - 16 July 2023

Mick was fortunate to be able to get a spot on another Pelagic out of Eaglehawk Neck so we booked to have a weekend at Mason's Cottages at Taranna. The cottages are conveniently located just as short drive from the departure point for the boat trip.

We drove out to the Tasman Peninsula after lunch and were delighted to find that we had been upgraded from a studio apartment to a 2 bedroom cottage. It was so nice to have the extra room for our two night stay. The weather was cold but the cottage was warm and very well equipped.

On Saturday morning I dropped Mick off at the Pirate's Bay boat ramp and headed back to the cottage. The weather wasn't great so I decided against going out to do one of the many walks around. Instead I pottered around at the cottage before collecting Mick from the jetty at 3:00pm. Our visit coincided with the Lightwave Festival and we toyed with the idea of heading over for dinner but decided to stay in.

On Sunday morning we packed up and went for a drive to Nubeena and White Beach and stopped in at the Pear Shed. There is an onsite cafe - really just a coffee van and some outdoor seating - and a gallery with some interesting artworks. From there we headed home, making a few stops along the way to look for birds - of course. This would be our final excursion from Hobart before leaving in August.

Return to Tasmania

4 – 5 April 2023

We left Little Desert ahead of schedule and drove back through Nhill, then the GPS took us along a number of “C” roads towards St Arnaud where we stopped for a coffee and to pick up some bread rolls to have later in the day. Meals are available on the Spirit of Tasmania but we decided to have a pub lunch along the way, then salad rolls for dinner onboard.

We made it into Bendigo on schedule and settled the trailer into the storage facility we have used a number of times. On a recommendation we headed to a nearby hotel for a very good lunch, at seniors prices. Our timing was perfect and we had time to stop again in Daylesford for a look around. We’ve stopped there before, but always on a weekend when it has been crazy busy, so it was nice to be there mid-week when it was just moderately busy.

From Daylesford it was on to the Corio Bay terminal to board the Spirit of Tasmania for our overnight sail to Tasmania. Once onboard we headed up to the bar for a couple of drinks before settling into our cabin to have our bread rolls for dinner and to watch an episode we’d downloaded from a streaming service.

We always check the forecast and it looked like we would have a very smooth crossing this time – and it was indeed. I think it was the smoothest we have ever had – at times you couldn’t even feel the gentle rocking of the boat. We were lucky to have our car in Deck 5 so we were among the first off at Devonport in the morning. We decided to go somewhere for a nice breakfast and as luck would have it, we would be at House of Anvers at about the time they opened.

                                                  Who doesn't like ice cream for beakfast?

Anvers is best known for their chocolates but they do a great breakfast too – eggs benedict for Mick and apple crumble French toast for me, as well as a hot chocolate! Absolutely delicious and very filling. Back on the road and we drove straight through to Hobart where we would spend the next few months with our daughters.

Bridport

 11 – 14 March 2022

Leaving St Helens we travelled up into the mountains on our way to Bridport. We took a short detour to Pyengana for morning tea at the dairy. While we were there I was able to have a quick catch-up with an old friend who lives nearby and works at the dairy. We also bought a lovely cheese box to have for lunch later on.

We continued on through the mountains and arrived at Bridport just on lunch time. We checked into the caravan park and immediately saw that the site we had been allocated was totally unsuitable. We returned to the office and were offered another one that was only marginally better, but decided it would have to do. Being a long weekend, this very popular holiday spot was almost fully booked. We were glad we had arrived early as it took some manoeuvring to get the camper trailer onto the wonky, small site, which was underneath an old gum tree. On the positive, the view was fabulous. The park started to fill up as the afternoon wore on, and we noticed many others having the same struggle we’d had to get positioned perfectly.

We went for a long walk along the foreshore path and onto the beach. This caravan park is enormous and hugs the beaches. There are more than 250 sites and you can see the water from just about all of them. We went for a drive to try to find a birdwatching spot and found the “food truck park” instead. It was too early to eat so an ice cream seemed like the thing to do. We decided we would return for dinner one night over the weekend.

On Saturday we visited the local market. Run by the CWA there was a good assortment of arts and crafts, local produce, jams and preserves as well as plants and second hand goods. We then walked along the foreshore path in the other direction to the one we had taken the previous day. In the evening we walked over get dinner at the food truck park – pizza for Mick, and Thai for me. Good food and great value.

On Sunday morning we set off again to try to find the birdwatching spot – this time down to Adam’s Beach and a long walk along the beach to the estuary. No luck with the birds, but another good walk. Later in the day we drove to Scottsdale, the next big town, to use the carwash and to stock up on some groceries. Back home and it was time to start preparing for our journey on the Spirit of Tasmania on Monday night.

Port Arthur

 7 – 9 March 2022

We spent the weekend in Hobart with our daughters and made our final preparations to leave Tasmania. After a long, leisurely and delicious cooked breakfast with the girls we headed off to Port Arthur. We chose to stay at the caravan park and arrived in time for a late lunch. The park is well set out and each site has a fire pit. We were surprised to see an echidna foraging for ants on the top of a large tree stump. It seemed totally oblivious to all the people around it taking photos. It did eventually climb down through the inside of the trunk and continued to wander the grounds for some time. Later we went for a walk in the afternoon along the track towards Garden Point then down to Stewart’s Bay for a walk on the beach.

The caravan park is a great place to see the, endemic, Green Rosella

A cold night was predicted so we took the opportunity to use some of the firewood left over from our stay in the Huon Valley. A campfire is always a bit of a treat, especially on a powered site in a caravan park.

We didn’t visit the Port Arthur Historic Site this visit, instead taking the time to explore the Tasman Peninsula. Our morning excursion took us to the Tessellated Pavement, Devil’s Kitchen, Tasman’s Arch and the Blowhole. Each is accessed via a short walk and are within close proximity to each other. We constantly marvel at the amazing work of nature, especially in this part of the state.

We returned to the caravan park for lunch and headed out again mid-afternoon. This time we travelled on the scenic drive along the coast, turning off to visit a number of points of interest. We discovered another beautiful beach at Safety Cove. We also visited White Beach before driving on through Nubeena, then turning off to visit the Coal Mines Historic Site. This site is an Australian Convict Sites World Heritage Property – one of eleven. A National Parks pass is required to visit, but there is no entry fee.

Coal Mines Historic Site

There are a number of walks throughout the site, of varying lengths and grades. We chose the easy half hour walk as our introduction on this visit. Interpretative signage tells the story of the discovery and mining of the coal, as well as personal stories of the convicts who were incarcerated there.

From there we continued towards Port Arthur, taking one last detour to visit Fortescue Bay. There as a campground and day use area which is accessed from a 12km forestry road. This is the departure point for those undertaking the Cape Hauy walk. We returned to camp late in the afternoon and enjoyed another chilly night by the fire.

We checked the weather and were a little undecided about our next destination but figured we would drive north along the East Coast and hope that we could find a sheltered spot somewhere in the Bay of Fires.

Riversedge Camping – Lonnavale

 

2 – 4 March 2022

We had heard about Riversedge Camping on the Russell River, and decided that it would be a good place to stop with a couple of days of nice weather ahead. We drove through Huonville and turned off towards Judbury and on towards Lonnavale. Arriving at Riversedge we were greeted warmly and invited to pick a spot from those available for the next couple of nights. We were very impressed with what we saw, and ended up settling on Site 18 – the one that had been recommended to us by friends.

As you look around it is clear that the people who developed this campground have put a lot of thought into creating a fabulous spot. Each campsite is huge - some with enought space for two or three caravans or motorhomes. Prices are dependent on the type of site chosen, are charged per person and are fairly reasonable. Most sites are along the river - with premium sites right on the river's edge. Our site was set back a bit but still with direct access and a great view. The amenities block is right at one end of the property and quite a way from the last sites, but composting toilets are situated strategically along the access road. There is also an overflow area away from the river. Each site also has a fire ring, and firewood is available for purchase - delivered to your site. There is also a morning rubbish collection from your site. There is no Telstra access but a booster up on the hill is only a short walk away. There are even a couple of seats up there.

We had a very relaxing couple of nights, with a fire just because we could. We were fortunate to have some beautiful warm weather while we were there so we spent time walking, reading and taking photographs. This is definitely the sort of campground we like - and one that we will return to some time. 

We left Riversedge to spend a couple of nights in Hobart with our daughters, before continuing our journey towards Devonport and our departure from Tasmania.

Scamander

 2 - 5 February 2022

Scamander is another Tassie favourite place. There's an inlet, beach and easy access to one of the east coast's tourist hot spots - Bay of Fires. After taking the scenic route from Cradle Mountain and then stopping for lunch in Campbell Town, we back-tracked about 10km to take the road through Fingal and St Marys to the coast. Again we travelled through farmlands and mountains before reaching the coast at Scamander. We had not booked accommodation so we explored our options and ended up at the place we have stayed at a number of times.

Pelican Sands is right on the inlet and allows direct access to the beach - and the numerous birds that hang out there. The views are fabulous and the location is convenient so we booked in for 2 nights. After a long drive (by Tassie standards anyway) we settled in for a relaxing afternoon which included a walk on the beach. 

On Wednesday Mick headed out early with the camera and I joined him later in the morning. The inlet is currently open to the sea but has been completely closed off in the last few years. There is a bridge that can only be accessed at low tide otherwise you have to wade through sometimes very deep water. This time with the low tide we barely got our feet wet. The weather was looking good, and with the promise of a few more great days we extended our 2 nights to three. 

We treated ourselves to dinner at the onsite restaurant - Fast Freddy's serves fantastic and authentic Italian meals at reasonable prices. They were quiet busy but the food and service was great. We had dined here before and we expecting the same quality as before and we were not disappointed. Freddy's gets great reviews, and deservedly so.

On Friday morning we set off to drive to St Helens, about 20 minutes north of Scamander. Our timing wasn't right for morning tea or lunch so we decided to keep going on to Binalong Bay. Binalong Bay is at the southern end of the Bay of Fires and boasts stunning beaches and scenery. We stopped at the first stretch of beach we came to and went for a walk on the sand. We then took the walking track which went out past the boat ramps and Skelton Bay, towards the point. We took lots of photos and stopped for an ice cream on the way back to the car. We headed back to Scamander for lunch and another relaxing afternoon by the beach.

On Saturday morning we finally set off to return to Hobart, making a stop at Triabunna for fish and chips for lunch. The fish van at the marina is another very popular spot and there were lots of people with the same idea - enjoying lunch by the water.