Birdsville Track - Tippipila Bush Campground – Clifton Hills Station

 12 – 13 September 2023

We continued our journey north along the Birdsville Track and made our lunch stop at Kilanbar Bore. Unfortunately the flies were out in force so it was a quick lunch in the car again. Back on the road and we found the campground and drove a little further on to locate the start of the Birdsville Inside Track where Mick would explore in the morning. The Inside Track has been closed for about 5 years due to repeated flood inundation and there is no sign indicating its location.

We returned to the campground which was once again a big open area with a couple of toilets and nothing else. We found a spot near some scrub and set up so that we could escape the flies. Once again dinner had to wait until after dark. There were only two others camped here, but a large group of vehicles camped across the other side of the road.

Mick went out very early to drive 14 kilometres along the Birdsville Inside Track to Goyder Lagoon. Even though the road is officially closed because it is not possible to get through to Birdsville, it is in reasonably good condition as far as the lagoon that Mick wanted to visit. He was home much earlier than I had expected, but very pleased that his mission to photograph the Grey grasswren had been successful.

With that one in the bag there was no need to hang around so we set off on the final leg to Birdsville.

Birdsville Track - Mungerannie Hotel Campground

7 – 12 September 2023

We had arranged to catch up with a birding friend at Mungerannie so we continued north along the Birdsville Track. We had a quick lunch in the car at Cooper Creek Camp, which looked like a good place to stop but the wind had us continuing on. The wind was still way too strong when we arrived at Mungerannie so we took a room for the night – a bit of a luxury, but we had always planned to do that from time to time.

Later in the day we met up with Paula and enjoyed dinner and a couple of drinks together. In the morning the wind had dropped quite a bit, and we were able to snag probably the best campsite in the whole place. The campground is just a big open area that backs onto some scrub which borders a wetland. There is very little shade for most of the day, but we found a spot that backed onto the scrub, with a small stand of vegetation in front. We were able to get some shade and were also quite private from the rest of the campground. Sometimes it pays to be early.

We ended up camping for four nights while Mick went out chasing birds. He went out with Paula a couple of times, by himself a few times, and I joined him on one early morning excursion up the Kalamurina Road onto Cowarie Station. He had some moderate success and was generally happy with his photos, but disappointed not to get the Grey falcon that everyone else seemed to have been able to photograph.

We had one mishap while we were at Mungerannie – one of the gas bottles ran out just as we finished cooking dinner and when Mick connected the other to heat water for washing up, it started to leak. It looked like a problem with the valve. We carry a Jetboil for roadside morning tea stops so used that and considered our options. We were due to leave in the morning but had also thought about staying another day. With only the Jetboil we wouldn’t be able to cook so we had to think carefully. After an early start to go out to Cowarie we decided to stay at Mungerannie another night and have lunch at the pub, and cold meat and salad wraps for dinner.

We enjoyed hearty burgers and chips for lunch and paid for another night’s camping. When we returned to camp Mick decided to have a closer look at the gas bottle. It turned out all it needed was a new “o” ring. Crisis averted. Mick chatted to some other birders and received some information about stops on our trip further north. He went out early on our final night while I did some initial packing up of the camp. We were back on the road again by mid-morning.

Birdsville Track - Clayton Station Wetlands

 5 – 7 September 2023

We drove north from Merna Mora and stopped at Leigh Creek for some last minute supplies, and then drove on to the park in Copley to check a few things online while we still had service. We had pies for lunch from the bakery which is also part of the caravan park. From there we continued north and refuelled in Lyndhurst before continuing on to Marree.

Marree is the starting point for both the Oodnadatta and Birdsville Tracks so we had a quick look around – there’s not much more than a pub and servo – before making our way to the start of the Birdsville Track. We had a couple of possible places to camp so were able to keep our options open.

We decided to make Clayton Station Wetlands our first camp on the track. This is a station stay with toilets, showers and a bore pool. Payment is via an honesty box as the campground is a long way from the station homestead. There were quite a few people already there when we arrived, and very little shade. We really wanted to be close to the wetland but the ground was very uneven and not suitable for our set-up, so we chose a spot that would give easy access to both the wetland and amenities.

We went for walk and Mick found the birding to be quite promising with the only downside being the huge number of flies – far more than we had been used to for quite some time, if ever. During the night the wind picked up and we had to make a decision about whether to spend another night and hope it would ease the next day. We chose to stay and it was a great spot once everyone else had left.

Mick spent a fair bit of time walking around taking photos of birds, while I escaped the flies by reading inside the tent. Dinner had to be cooked and eaten after dark, and we worked out a way to have a fly-free lunch inside too. Fortunately breakfast wasn’t a problem as long as we were up early.

The second night was as windy as the first so we made the decision to move on – it was just too unpleasant to stay, so after Mick had been out birding, we set off again.

Merna Mora Station

4 – 5 September 2023

We had planned to have a big drive from Whyalla to get us close to the Birdsville Track but the sleepless night we had both endured had us rethinking our plan. We left Whyalla and refuelled in Port Augusta before continuing on to Quorn for morning tea and then Hawker for lunch. We had a look at our options, and noting that the strong winds would be around for another day, we decided to look for somewhere where we could get a powered site as cooking outside on gas in strong winds in near on impossible. We settled on Merna Mora Station, partly because we had never been there before, and partly because it wasn’t too far away.

We phoned the station while we were in Hawker, then drove the 43 kilometres along The Flinders Ranges Way. Merna Mora is just one of many station stays in the Flinders Ranges and is well set up for visitors.

Once we had settled onto our site we noticed the neighbours – another couple we had met at Mount Ive. It certainly is a small world. They had told us they were going to Rawnsley Park – another station stay – but couldn’t get in until later in the week so had chosen Merna Mora to spend the time waiting.

We spent a quiet afternoon and evening at camp, and went for a short walk up the hill to a lookout point just on dusk. The views around Ikara-Flinders Ranges are something to be seen. It’s a really beautiful landscape.

In the morning we went for a walk to the dry creek bed looking for birds but there wasn’t much around. We packed up and headed off hoping to be on the Birdsville Track later in the day.

Mount Ive Station

29 August – 1 September 2023

Mt Ive Station is very well set up for visitors with accommodation and camping, including powered sites. With a few more cold nights ahead of us, we booked onto a powered site for three nights and settled in for the afternoon. They also have a bar which opens at 5:00pm so we wandered up and sat around the fire with some fellow travellers, then Mick met up with some birders and chatted with them over a few drinks.

The following morning Mick set off very early on one of the 4WD tracks, with another birder, looking for the grasswren known to be on the property. Unfortunately, despite their best efforts, they were not successful. We went out the following morning to a couple of other likely spots, but again were not successful. Mick tried in the afternoon and again the morning we were leaving, but he had no luck – looks like we’ll have to come back to Mount Ive another time.

  

Mount Ive has a number of 4WD tracks as well as access to Lake Gairdner, another one of South Australia’s famous salt lakes. We paid for the permit and obtained the key so we could drive out to the lake one afternoon. Of course we stopped along the way to take a few bird photos before arriving at the lake only to find that it was full of water! Just as well we went for the drive and not to marvel at the enormous expanse of salt.

Leaving Mt Ive we decided to go via Kimba and on to Lake Gilles – another potential birdy spot. We set off and tried to find our way using a combination of Google Maps and the GPS, which didn’t always agree. We had misplaced the paper map of South Australia so were a bit unsure when the GPS suggested a road that wasn’t signposted as heading for Kimba, but later we realised we should have gone that way instead of the much longer road we had taken. Along the way we saw three dead wombats – I’m not sure if that indicates there are lots in the area or if they are dwindling in numbers. We’ll never know.

Once we made it to Kimba, we stopped to pick up some fresh food and to refuel before continuing on to Lake Gilles.

Clare and Quorn

Clare

21 - 22 November 2015

We drove from the Coorong National Park, back through Meningie and on to Murray Bridge on our way north. We made a couple of stops along the way, but the day was one for getting as far as we could. We decided Clare would be a good place to stop so checked into the caravan park at about 3:30pm.

The Banded Stilt is often seen in large flocks but this one was seen feeding alone at one of our stops.

The park is on the highway, but well laid out with lots of trees and a great camp kitchen. It was still windy so we made use of this facility - as did many others. It was a nice spot for an overnighter - with the Tourist Information Centre right next door.

Before leaving Clare we drove up to Gleeson Lakes wetland. This is a really beautiful spot being developed and maintained by the local Lions Club. They are doing a great job! 

On to Quorn with a stop for morning tea in Laura - many places were closed as it was a Sunday so we were pleased to find a nice coffee shop, and an "old wares" shop as well. 

Quorn

22 - 24 November 2015

We arrived at Quorn in the middle of the day, and the caravan park office was closed. The sign said to go find a spot, so we did. This caravan park is almost like being in the bush, but with all the advantages (hot showers and a laundry) of a caravan park. Friends had stayed here earlier in the year so we were glad to find their positive description accurate. Once the office opened again at 4:00pm we ventured up and found that they also hire DVDs, for a donation to Friends of Warren Gorge.

Crimson Rosella race subadelaidae.

Crimson Rosella.

We made use of the camp kitchen and escaped the cold in the camper watching a movie on Mick's computer. Such luxury!

Two different Eucalypts were flowering in the park attracting Red Wattlebirds.

In the morning we headed off to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens in Port Augusta. We had visited when we went to South Australia last year, and promised ourselves we would be back. There were lots of plants in flower and lots of birds around, so Mick was happy. It was hot, and after 5 hours (which included a nice lunch in the cafe - featuring local produce) we called it a day and drove back to Quorn.

Young White-fronted honeyeater.

Goanna.

Young Nankeen Kestrel.

Chirruping Wedgebill. We found it impossible to catch this bird in the open.

At the suggestion of the manager of the caravan park, we decided to venture out to Warren Gorge then next morning. The information pamphlet described a 5.2km walk which leaves from the day visitor carpark, or the campground. We decided on the carpark as the forecast was for 35 degrees and we figured that we would get the steepest climb over in the earlier part of the day. The pamphlet rated the walk as easy to moderate - and I was struggling after the first 500 metres! The path was steep, narrow in parts and very loose underfoot. The view, however, was magnificent. We reached Smoke-Oh Lookout and then made our way to the cairn marking the highest point on the walk. There was a visitor log book so we signed, and checked to find the names of friends who had come this way in July. The rest of the walk was indeed easier, but still very tricky in parts, and the heat didn't help.

Lots of great views on this walk.

Adding our names to the log book.

Grass trees... called Yakkas in South Aus.

We finally reached the bottom, and we still hadn't seen the gorge. We pushed on, and the gorge started to appear, with rocky walls where Mick hoped to find a Yellow-footed rock wallaby. Unfortunately, most creatures were well hidden so most photos were of the spectacular scenery. As we came closer to our starting point we realised we could have driven into the gorge and skipped the walk completely. It was good exercise, but plenty of water and stops were needed.

Back to the caravan park to try to escape the heat in the (slightly) cooler camp kitchen, only to be inundated by small biting mosquitoes! We just can't win. At least the wind died down and we were able to cook dinner without battling the gas blowing out.

The forecast for Wednesday was 40 degrees, and winds of up to 40kph, so we said goodbye to Quorn, and after a very short stop at the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens - just in case the Chirruping Wedgebill was waiting to have its photo taken - we headed down the Eyre Peninsula. The wind persisted and the temperature reached 38 degrees at lunchtime, so a night in a cabin was in order. 

Gundabooka National Park - near Bourke

24 – 25 April  2015

We had read about this park, and the lady at the visitor centre recommended Yanda Campground as the best spot to camp. We drove out of Bourke and then turned onto the mostly unsealed Louth Road. The campground is signposted, but with the smallest writing possible so it was necessary to slow almost to a stop to read the directional signage. Turning right off the road, the road to the campground is only a few kilometres, but quite rough in parts.

We were told the campground is right on the creek – and it is, but it’s quite a walk down to the water.  We selected a spot close to one of the picnic shelters and not too far from the (hybrid) toilets, and set up our camp. We didn’t bother with the awning or table as the picnic shelter had ample space as well as a free gas barbecue – which we later learned wasn't working. I hope the next user appreciates how clean we left it.

An opalescent sunset more than compensated for our lack of proximity to the water.

We were fortunate that we were the only ones camped there and looked forward to a peaceful night when we saw the headlights of 5 vehicles. We were somewhat concerned as we have heard horror stories if rowdy young people arriving in campgrounds like this, after dark, and causing quite a nuisance with unruly behaviour (gosh I am sounding old and cranky!). Anyway we need not have worried, this group of young people set up camp and hardly disturbed us. We heard them going to and from the toilets, but they had turned in by about 10pm. Perhaps they were really old people masquerading as young’uns.

Hooded Robins are common but not as common as Jacky Winters.

A lucky catch. This Black Falcon flew past late in the afternoon and for once the focus was bang on.

We took our time in the morning to pack up and left for Bourke, intending to stock up on supplies – silly mistake. It was Anzac Day and all the shops were shut, except for the bakery which was going to be shut during the Anzac March. We stopped in to buy, what turned out to be, a very nice loaf of bread. I can recommend this little bakery.

We tried to fuel up, but waited an inordinate amount of time and gave up, confident the long range fuel tank on the Prado would get us to Cunnamulla. It’s 250km from Bourke to Cunnamulla and most of the road is straight, with a 110km speed limit, so it was an easy drive – except there are a couple of rest stops but not one toilet – be warned! When we arrived we found the town to be closed – nothing was open. We were able to get fuel at a 24hour card operated bowser, but that was it. So much for our plans for meals for the next few days. It was a Saturday and apparently Cunnamulla is closed on a Sunday too.

We made our way the short distance to Bowra Bird Sanctuary, which was to be our home for the next three nights. 

Quorn - South Australia

24 - 26 September 2014

After lunch at the pub in Hawker - which we would recommend - we drove on the 60 km to Quorn and Endilloe Lodge which was to be our home for two nights. This "cottage" is a three bedroom house with an orchard, creek bed and more fantastic views.

The massive living area of the "cottage".

A visit to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens in Port Augusta was next on the agenda so we left fairly early for the 40 minute drive, arriving just after 9.00am. Stopped for coffee in the visitor centre while we decided which of the walks we would tackle first.

We chose the 4.5km Red Cliff Walk. My map reading skills are obviously appalling and I had us completely bamboozled within the first fifteen minutes. Thankfully Mick was able to decipher the map - which was actually very easy to read - and we enjoyed a leisurely stroll around the grounds. This walk is very easy, but water and hats were essential. Even though the morning started out quite overcast, the sun emerged and it became a beautiful, and quite warm, day.

View of the gulf from Red Cliff Walk

Red Cliff Walk

There were plenty of wildflowers in bloom, and birds around. Bird hides, seats and interpretive information are provided.

We had lunch in the cafe, choosing from an interesting, well priced menu with lots of local flavours. Then it was back out onto the walks. We criss-crossed around the various paths trying to find the best spots to photograph birds, and generally enjoying the beautiful weather.

Mulga Parrot

This was a full-day excursion and we didn't leave until after 3.00pm. We will certainly be back here again one day.

This is another great spot to find some interesting birds. Singing Honeyeaters and Red Wattle Birds are plentiful and I saw a couple of Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters as well. Out on the salt bush plain, White-winged Fairy Wrens were frequently encountered. One of the highlights for me was the Black-eared Cuckoo I spotted on arrival. It was the first of two (possibly three) 'lifers' for this great place. The other was this Mulga Parrot that ate wattle seeds happily, unconcerned by the clicking of my camera only a few metres away.

The other possible lifer is the Chirruping Wedgebill we were able to see but not photograph. I can't remember if I've seen this bird before. A fellow visitor was nice enough to point out the hiding place of a Boobook Owl. It was quite high in a Gum tree but I managed a reasonable photo. 

We returned the next day to have another crack at the Chirruping Wedgebill but dipped. We did manage to see a couple of goannas flat out like themselves drinking.

Gould's Goanna at the Visitor Centre

Southern Boobook Owl

Wilpena Pound - Flinders Ranges - South Australia

22 - 24 September 2014

We started early in Clare with a yummy - and fairly cheap - breakfast at the bakery and a few photos at the park and then headed off towards the Flinders Ranges. We made the usual stops - at Quorn and Hawker - and arrived at Wilpena Pound Resort in the early afternoon. Our last - and only other - visit to this part of the country was in 1991, when we camped and lived out of the back of a Landcruiser ute. We were doing it in a bit more comfort this time.

Musk Lorikeet at Clare

These Emus were wandering past our accommodation at Wilpena Pound Resort

Grass Tree

Because rain was forecast for the next day we decided to make a start and go for a walk after a cup of tea. We opted for the "Hills Homestead" walk which was described ass  6.6km return walk - and we found it was as described. A well made path, with only a short uneven uphill section. We also made the extra 600m return trek up to the lower "Wangarra Lookout". The upper lookout was out of our reach because of dodgy knees, and unfit bodies. The view from the lower lookout was still awesome. This part of the country is beautiful and we both took lots of photos along the way.

Dinner at the bistro was reasonably priced, nothing fancy, but tasty. The  night was quite cool but nothing like we had experienced over the previous few days. We awoke to bright sunshine, despite the forecast of rain. We checked, and rain was still predicted, but not until evening, and cloud from about lunchtime.

We checked in at the Visitor Centre and picked up a map. On the recommendation of the young man there we decided to head to Brachina Gorge. We had camped there on our our last visit here. This time though we were driving a Toyota Corolla (a hire car) so weren't so confident of getting all the way through to the gorge - and we were right.

The unsealed road from the Wilpena - Blinman road was a fairly easy drive, with some fabulous views along the way, but alas we came to a creek crossing with a huge puddle and water flowing over the causeway so we couldn't go any further. (Well maybe we could have, but we weren't prepared to take the risk). We drove a short way back up the road to park the car and walked back down for a look around.

After that stop we drove on to Blinman which is where the bitumen ends. This is a busy little town, with a pub, a shop/cafe and a few other businesses. There was even an art exhibition in the Blinman Community Hall - part of the "Flinders Ranges - A Brush with Art" festival. We went in to have a look after the obligatory stop for coffee. There are some talented artists in these parts.

Shingleback Lizards are frequently seen on the road, dead and alive

Emus were a common sight on the drive. Males incubate the eggs and raise the chicks.

 We returned to Wilpena Pound - having made a couple of stops to take photos - in time for lunch. By this time there were a few clouds in the sky, but nothing serious looking.

View of Wilpena Pound from Hucks Lookout

Lots of wildflowers around in spring

Red-capped Robin with tasty grub in its beak for its young

After lunch we headed out on the "Boom and Bust" walk (also known as "Droughtbusters Hike") - about 1.5km, described as moderate. This is a loop walk and has a steady, but manageable, uphill climb to a great vantage point. The track is rocky and uneven - and I wished I had brought my hiking boots rather than my joggers. We were in sensory overload with spectacular views, including gathering storm clouds, abundant wildflowers and interesting rock formations. Although there weren't a lot of birds waiting to have their photo taken, this little robin happily obliged. We headed home as the clouds started to close in - looks like we had picked the best time of day for our excursion.






Overnight there was lots of rain, as well as thunder and lightning, but the morning broke clear and cool. Our last morning at Wilpena Pound so we decided to head to "Wood Duck Pond" just up the road a bit. We only stopped for a very short while, then turned back towards Quorn. On the way we stopped to do the "Arkaroo Rock Hike". This was accurately described as "moderate". The gentle climb took us up about 500m and afforded another spectacular Flinders Ranges vista. Everywhere you turn there is a "picture postcard" view.

The vegetation reminded us of a beautiful native garden. The Adnyamathanha rock paintings feature ochre and charcoal images depicting the creation story of Wilpena Pound. Out of respect for the traditional owners of this land, we have chosen not to include photographs of the art site. This is one walk that is a definite must do when visiting the area - it's only 3 km long and 2 km off the main road. The views are stunning, the flora magnificent at this time of year and lots of creatures to see - and maybe photograph. We were both very glad we had made this short detour.

One of the spectacular views on the Arkaroo walk

Australian Ring Neck Parrot. Quite common around the Flinders Ranges.

Variegated fairywren

White-winged fairywren