Clare and Quorn

Clare

21 - 22 November 2015

We drove from the Coorong National Park, back through Meningie and on to Murray Bridge on our way north. We made a couple of stops along the way, but the day was one for getting as far as we could. We decided Clare would be a good place to stop so checked into the caravan park at about 3:30pm.

The Banded Stilt is often seen in large flocks but this one was seen feeding alone at one of our stops.

The park is on the highway, but well laid out with lots of trees and a great camp kitchen. It was still windy so we made use of this facility - as did many others. It was a nice spot for an overnighter - with the Tourist Information Centre right next door.

Before leaving Clare we drove up to Gleeson Lakes wetland. This is a really beautiful spot being developed and maintained by the local Lions Club. They are doing a great job! 

On to Quorn with a stop for morning tea in Laura - many places were closed as it was a Sunday so we were pleased to find a nice coffee shop, and an "old wares" shop as well. 

Quorn

22 - 24 November 2015

We arrived at Quorn in the middle of the day, and the caravan park office was closed. The sign said to go find a spot, so we did. This caravan park is almost like being in the bush, but with all the advantages (hot showers and a laundry) of a caravan park. Friends had stayed here earlier in the year so we were glad to find their positive description accurate. Once the office opened again at 4:00pm we ventured up and found that they also hire DVDs, for a donation to Friends of Warren Gorge.

Crimson Rosella race subadelaidae.

Crimson Rosella.

We made use of the camp kitchen and escaped the cold in the camper watching a movie on Mick's computer. Such luxury!

Two different Eucalypts were flowering in the park attracting Red Wattlebirds.

In the morning we headed off to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens in Port Augusta. We had visited when we went to South Australia last year, and promised ourselves we would be back. There were lots of plants in flower and lots of birds around, so Mick was happy. It was hot, and after 5 hours (which included a nice lunch in the cafe - featuring local produce) we called it a day and drove back to Quorn.

Young White-fronted honeyeater.

Goanna.

Young Nankeen Kestrel.

Chirruping Wedgebill. We found it impossible to catch this bird in the open.

At the suggestion of the manager of the caravan park, we decided to venture out to Warren Gorge then next morning. The information pamphlet described a 5.2km walk which leaves from the day visitor carpark, or the campground. We decided on the carpark as the forecast was for 35 degrees and we figured that we would get the steepest climb over in the earlier part of the day. The pamphlet rated the walk as easy to moderate - and I was struggling after the first 500 metres! The path was steep, narrow in parts and very loose underfoot. The view, however, was magnificent. We reached Smoke-Oh Lookout and then made our way to the cairn marking the highest point on the walk. There was a visitor log book so we signed, and checked to find the names of friends who had come this way in July. The rest of the walk was indeed easier, but still very tricky in parts, and the heat didn't help.

Lots of great views on this walk.

Adding our names to the log book.

Grass trees... called Yakkas in South Aus.

We finally reached the bottom, and we still hadn't seen the gorge. We pushed on, and the gorge started to appear, with rocky walls where Mick hoped to find a Yellow-footed rock wallaby. Unfortunately, most creatures were well hidden so most photos were of the spectacular scenery. As we came closer to our starting point we realised we could have driven into the gorge and skipped the walk completely. It was good exercise, but plenty of water and stops were needed.

Back to the caravan park to try to escape the heat in the (slightly) cooler camp kitchen, only to be inundated by small biting mosquitoes! We just can't win. At least the wind died down and we were able to cook dinner without battling the gas blowing out.

The forecast for Wednesday was 40 degrees, and winds of up to 40kph, so we said goodbye to Quorn, and after a very short stop at the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens - just in case the Chirruping Wedgebill was waiting to have its photo taken - we headed down the Eyre Peninsula. The wind persisted and the temperature reached 38 degrees at lunchtime, so a night in a cabin was in order. 

Quorn - South Australia

24 - 26 September 2014

After lunch at the pub in Hawker - which we would recommend - we drove on the 60 km to Quorn and Endilloe Lodge which was to be our home for two nights. This "cottage" is a three bedroom house with an orchard, creek bed and more fantastic views.

The massive living area of the "cottage".

A visit to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens in Port Augusta was next on the agenda so we left fairly early for the 40 minute drive, arriving just after 9.00am. Stopped for coffee in the visitor centre while we decided which of the walks we would tackle first.

We chose the 4.5km Red Cliff Walk. My map reading skills are obviously appalling and I had us completely bamboozled within the first fifteen minutes. Thankfully Mick was able to decipher the map - which was actually very easy to read - and we enjoyed a leisurely stroll around the grounds. This walk is very easy, but water and hats were essential. Even though the morning started out quite overcast, the sun emerged and it became a beautiful, and quite warm, day.

View of the gulf from Red Cliff Walk

Red Cliff Walk

There were plenty of wildflowers in bloom, and birds around. Bird hides, seats and interpretive information are provided.

We had lunch in the cafe, choosing from an interesting, well priced menu with lots of local flavours. Then it was back out onto the walks. We criss-crossed around the various paths trying to find the best spots to photograph birds, and generally enjoying the beautiful weather.

Mulga Parrot

This was a full-day excursion and we didn't leave until after 3.00pm. We will certainly be back here again one day.

This is another great spot to find some interesting birds. Singing Honeyeaters and Red Wattle Birds are plentiful and I saw a couple of Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters as well. Out on the salt bush plain, White-winged Fairy Wrens were frequently encountered. One of the highlights for me was the Black-eared Cuckoo I spotted on arrival. It was the first of two (possibly three) 'lifers' for this great place. The other was this Mulga Parrot that ate wattle seeds happily, unconcerned by the clicking of my camera only a few metres away.

The other possible lifer is the Chirruping Wedgebill we were able to see but not photograph. I can't remember if I've seen this bird before. A fellow visitor was nice enough to point out the hiding place of a Boobook Owl. It was quite high in a Gum tree but I managed a reasonable photo. 

We returned the next day to have another crack at the Chirruping Wedgebill but dipped. We did manage to see a couple of goannas flat out like themselves drinking.

Gould's Goanna at the Visitor Centre

Southern Boobook Owl

Wilpena Pound - Flinders Ranges - South Australia

22 - 24 September 2014

We started early in Clare with a yummy - and fairly cheap - breakfast at the bakery and a few photos at the park and then headed off towards the Flinders Ranges. We made the usual stops - at Quorn and Hawker - and arrived at Wilpena Pound Resort in the early afternoon. Our last - and only other - visit to this part of the country was in 1991, when we camped and lived out of the back of a Landcruiser ute. We were doing it in a bit more comfort this time.

Musk Lorikeet at Clare

These Emus were wandering past our accommodation at Wilpena Pound Resort

Grass Tree

Because rain was forecast for the next day we decided to make a start and go for a walk after a cup of tea. We opted for the "Hills Homestead" walk which was described ass  6.6km return walk - and we found it was as described. A well made path, with only a short uneven uphill section. We also made the extra 600m return trek up to the lower "Wangarra Lookout". The upper lookout was out of our reach because of dodgy knees, and unfit bodies. The view from the lower lookout was still awesome. This part of the country is beautiful and we both took lots of photos along the way.

Dinner at the bistro was reasonably priced, nothing fancy, but tasty. The  night was quite cool but nothing like we had experienced over the previous few days. We awoke to bright sunshine, despite the forecast of rain. We checked, and rain was still predicted, but not until evening, and cloud from about lunchtime.

We checked in at the Visitor Centre and picked up a map. On the recommendation of the young man there we decided to head to Brachina Gorge. We had camped there on our our last visit here. This time though we were driving a Toyota Corolla (a hire car) so weren't so confident of getting all the way through to the gorge - and we were right.

The unsealed road from the Wilpena - Blinman road was a fairly easy drive, with some fabulous views along the way, but alas we came to a creek crossing with a huge puddle and water flowing over the causeway so we couldn't go any further. (Well maybe we could have, but we weren't prepared to take the risk). We drove a short way back up the road to park the car and walked back down for a look around.

After that stop we drove on to Blinman which is where the bitumen ends. This is a busy little town, with a pub, a shop/cafe and a few other businesses. There was even an art exhibition in the Blinman Community Hall - part of the "Flinders Ranges - A Brush with Art" festival. We went in to have a look after the obligatory stop for coffee. There are some talented artists in these parts.

Shingleback Lizards are frequently seen on the road, dead and alive

Emus were a common sight on the drive. Males incubate the eggs and raise the chicks.

 We returned to Wilpena Pound - having made a couple of stops to take photos - in time for lunch. By this time there were a few clouds in the sky, but nothing serious looking.

View of Wilpena Pound from Hucks Lookout

Lots of wildflowers around in spring

Red-capped Robin with tasty grub in its beak for its young

After lunch we headed out on the "Boom and Bust" walk (also known as "Droughtbusters Hike") - about 1.5km, described as moderate. This is a loop walk and has a steady, but manageable, uphill climb to a great vantage point. The track is rocky and uneven - and I wished I had brought my hiking boots rather than my joggers. We were in sensory overload with spectacular views, including gathering storm clouds, abundant wildflowers and interesting rock formations. Although there weren't a lot of birds waiting to have their photo taken, this little robin happily obliged. We headed home as the clouds started to close in - looks like we had picked the best time of day for our excursion.






Overnight there was lots of rain, as well as thunder and lightning, but the morning broke clear and cool. Our last morning at Wilpena Pound so we decided to head to "Wood Duck Pond" just up the road a bit. We only stopped for a very short while, then turned back towards Quorn. On the way we stopped to do the "Arkaroo Rock Hike". This was accurately described as "moderate". The gentle climb took us up about 500m and afforded another spectacular Flinders Ranges vista. Everywhere you turn there is a "picture postcard" view.

The vegetation reminded us of a beautiful native garden. The Adnyamathanha rock paintings feature ochre and charcoal images depicting the creation story of Wilpena Pound. Out of respect for the traditional owners of this land, we have chosen not to include photographs of the art site. This is one walk that is a definite must do when visiting the area - it's only 3 km long and 2 km off the main road. The views are stunning, the flora magnificent at this time of year and lots of creatures to see - and maybe photograph. We were both very glad we had made this short detour.

One of the spectacular views on the Arkaroo walk

Australian Ring Neck Parrot. Quite common around the Flinders Ranges.

Variegated fairywren

White-winged fairywren