Merna Mora Station

4 – 5 September 2023

We had planned to have a big drive from Whyalla to get us close to the Birdsville Track but the sleepless night we had both endured had us rethinking our plan. We left Whyalla and refuelled in Port Augusta before continuing on to Quorn for morning tea and then Hawker for lunch. We had a look at our options, and noting that the strong winds would be around for another day, we decided to look for somewhere where we could get a powered site as cooking outside on gas in strong winds in near on impossible. We settled on Merna Mora Station, partly because we had never been there before, and partly because it wasn’t too far away.

We phoned the station while we were in Hawker, then drove the 43 kilometres along The Flinders Ranges Way. Merna Mora is just one of many station stays in the Flinders Ranges and is well set up for visitors.

Once we had settled onto our site we noticed the neighbours – another couple we had met at Mount Ive. It certainly is a small world. They had told us they were going to Rawnsley Park – another station stay – but couldn’t get in until later in the week so had chosen Merna Mora to spend the time waiting.

We spent a quiet afternoon and evening at camp, and went for a short walk up the hill to a lookout point just on dusk. The views around Ikara-Flinders Ranges are something to be seen. It’s a really beautiful landscape.

In the morning we went for a walk to the dry creek bed looking for birds but there wasn’t much around. We packed up and headed off hoping to be on the Birdsville Track later in the day.

Whyalla

2 – 4 September 2023

We went back in to Kimba for lunch as it was almost noon when we left Lake Gilles, and we couldn’t see anywhere suitable on the map, along the way to stop for a picnic. We found a lovely picnic area at the Kimba Lions Park than decided to take a short cut to Whyalla, not realising that it would be mostly on unsealed roads. It’s always fun to get off the highway and try a different road, and this one started off great, but deteriorated significantly as we drove along.

Arriving in Whyalla, and aware that the forecast for the following day was for very strong winds, we decided to stay at the caravan park just out of town rather than the one on the foreshore. We were given a good spot and settled in. Late in the afternoon we drove out to Wild Dog Hill at Whyalla Conservation Park, another birdy spot Mick had been told about. No luck with the birds, but a nice enough place to visit.

The wind picked up a bit overnight and in the morning we drove down to the foreshore for a look around. We walked along the boardwalk to the very impressive circular jetty. This looks to be fairy new, and is obviously popular. We walked right out to the end which has become a bit of a habit when we see a jetty somewhere in our travels. 

After a visit to the supermarket we returned to camp as the wind continued to increase. We retreated to the small camp kitchen to make lunch and spent the afternoon sheltering from the wind inside the camper trailer. The wind dropped a little later in the afternoon so we were able to sit outside for drinks and to make dinner but it soon picked up again.

Overnight the wind continued to howl and we had a very sleepless night. In the morning I checked the Bureau of Meteorology app and discovered that wind gusts of up to 69kph had been recorded. No wonder it was so noisy inside the camper. Fortunately it had dropped again as we packed up ready to move on, again not too sure where we would end up.

Lake Gilles Campground

1 – 2 September 2023

We had visited Lake Gilles on a previous trip but had not camped there so were looking forward to a night in a quiet camp by the salt lake. On the way in we looked for a track that Mick had been told would lead to a possible spot to photograph a Copper-back quail-thrush. We didn’t go down the track with the trailer but continued on to the campground. At that stage we were the only ones there so we had the pick of the spots. We chose one with a fire pit, and adjacent to a track to the lake.

We set up so that we were facing the firepit which we planned to use as a cold night was expected. We had brought what was left of the firewood that we had been gifted at Mount Ive. We went for a walk along the shore of the lake – this one had no water but was very boggy near the edge suggesting it had been full of water not so long ago.

On returning to camp we noticed another vehicle approaching and realised it was some bird photographers we had met at Mount Ive. We hadn’t expected to see them again as they had been heading west, but here they were. After an early dinner, Tony and Julia joined us for a few drinks by the fire, sharing birding stories.

The night turned out to be much colder than expected and when Mick set off early to the special spot, he noted the “outside temperature” indicator in the car read 1°. No wonder we were cold overnight. He returned to camp not long after because he couldn’t find the spot so I jumped in the car and between us we found it – and he photographed the bird. After breakfast he spent another short session at another spot – success again – and returned to camp for morning tea, then to pack up. We chatted with Tony and Julia before heading back in to Kimba for lunch, then on to Whyalla.

Mount Ive Station

29 August – 1 September 2023

Mt Ive Station is very well set up for visitors with accommodation and camping, including powered sites. With a few more cold nights ahead of us, we booked onto a powered site for three nights and settled in for the afternoon. They also have a bar which opens at 5:00pm so we wandered up and sat around the fire with some fellow travellers, then Mick met up with some birders and chatted with them over a few drinks.

The following morning Mick set off very early on one of the 4WD tracks, with another birder, looking for the grasswren known to be on the property. Unfortunately, despite their best efforts, they were not successful. We went out the following morning to a couple of other likely spots, but again were not successful. Mick tried in the afternoon and again the morning we were leaving, but he had no luck – looks like we’ll have to come back to Mount Ive another time.

  

Mount Ive has a number of 4WD tracks as well as access to Lake Gairdner, another one of South Australia’s famous salt lakes. We paid for the permit and obtained the key so we could drive out to the lake one afternoon. Of course we stopped along the way to take a few bird photos before arriving at the lake only to find that it was full of water! Just as well we went for the drive and not to marvel at the enormous expanse of salt.

Leaving Mt Ive we decided to go via Kimba and on to Lake Gilles – another potential birdy spot. We set off and tried to find our way using a combination of Google Maps and the GPS, which didn’t always agree. We had misplaced the paper map of South Australia so were a bit unsure when the GPS suggested a road that wasn’t signposted as heading for Kimba, but later we realised we should have gone that way instead of the much longer road we had taken. Along the way we saw three dead wombats – I’m not sure if that indicates there are lots in the area or if they are dwindling in numbers. We’ll never know.

Once we made it to Kimba, we stopped to pick up some fresh food and to refuel before continuing on to Lake Gilles.

Port Augusta

26 – 29 August 2023

After 5 fabulous nights at Gluepot Reserve we drove out through Morgan, where we had lunch. From there we drove on towards Burra so we could stop in to the Red Banks Conservation Park. It would have been nice to camp there but after 5 nights in the bush without a shower we really needed to get to a caravan park. We stopped in the day use area “the oval” and Mick spent a bit of time looking for birds. Reluctantly we moved on, still not sure where we would end up. We decided to drive through Laura, looking for suitable caravan parks along the way. We didn’t find anything that appealed so while we were at Laura we phoned ahead to book into the park in Port Augusta where we always stay.

As usual, we spent a day washing, shopping and doing general maintenance at camp, and on the other day we headed out early to Arid Lands Botanic Gardens. The gardens were looking particularly lush and there were so many plants blossoming. We wandered around for a couple of hours before having a delicious morning tea at the onsite café. We then finished our “town” chores and repacked ready to travel into a more remote location.

Mick had heard about the birding at Mount Ive Station and had been keen for some time to get there so we added it to the itinerary for this leg of the trip. We had arranged to meet birding friend, Paula, on the Birdsville Track in a couple of weeks’ time so were able to fit in a visit to this spot in the Gawler Ranges.

We left Port Augusta and drove to Iron Knob where we had a quick look around what was left of the town and then turned off the highway for the two hour drive on the unsealed road to Mt Ive. The road condition wasn’t great to start with but improved as we went along. 

We knew we wouldn’t make it in time for lunch and, as luck would have it, we reached the only picnic spot along the road just on noon. The marker indicated it as “Edward John Eyre Camp 6 Site” and consisted of a small drive through parking bay and a picnic table. Not much, and given the wind was howling, it was sufficient for a quick chicken and salad wrap, then back on our way.

Gluepot Reserve – Babbler Campground

 21 – 26 August 2023

After a couple of very pleasant and relaxing days at Lake Bonney, we set off for another one of our favourite places – Gluepot Reserve in the South Australian Riverland. We stopped in Waikerie to pick up a parcel at the Post Office and to do some more shopping. We then crossed the Murray River on the ferry and drove on to Gluepot.

Gluepot is a protected area and the largest block of intact mallee in Australia – and it is well known as a fabulous spot for birding. This would be our fourth visit. We stopped at the visitor centre to check in and also to have our lunch, then made our way to Babbler Campground. There had been reports of Scarlet-chested parrots in a location not too far from Babbler so it seemed the logical choice.

In the late afternoon one of the volunteer rangers called in and told us that we were the only ones camping in the whole reserve – there was no-one in either of the other two campgrounds. This didn’t last as over the following days a number of other campers arrived. The beauty of Gluepot is that the vast majority of visitors are birders – it’s too remote for caravanners looking for a cheap place to stay.

I went out with Mick a couple of times looking for the parrots, as well as to walk the Mallee Fowl Walk one morning. We actually did see a Mallee fowl not far off the track, but it didn’t stick around long enough to have its photo taken. We went out for a drive just on dark one night looking for Spotted nightjars but were not successful. Mick went out birding each morning and afternoon and processed photos during the middle of the day. I caught up on some reading and enjoyed relaxing and pottering around the camp.

Because there were a number of birders at the camp, much information was shared – not just about Gluepot. It was while we were there that we made up our minds that we would definitely go to another good birding spot – Mount Ive Station – even though it was a bit out of the way.

We had initially booked in for three nights but ended up staying for five. We could perhaps have stayed longer but had run out of drinking water so had to move on. Maybe next time we’ll allow a week. Even though the nights were cold – and fires are not permitted – the days were pleasantly cool and there was not a drop of rain while we were there.

Before leaving the reserve we called in to the ranger station and to check on another camper who had been having tyre trouble on his rented car, and to pay for our extra nights. We let Rob know that we would be spending about ½ hour at one of the hides before heading back to the main road so would be behind him if he needed help along the way. After the session at the hide – where we met up with another of the camper/birders we drove back towards Waikerie without seeing Rob. Knowing he had made it that far we presumed he had been able to get all the way to Waikerie where the two tyres could be fixed. I guess we will never know for sure.

Instead of returning to Waikerie we headed towards Morgan where we stopped to buy fresh bread and we discovered the local church market where I purchased a couple of books – just in the nick of time as I only had one left in my stash waiting to be read. We drove down to the riverside park to air up the tyres and have some lunch. While checking our location on WikiCamps, we discovered we were sitting near the Old Historic Morgue! It was located on the river so the deceased could be transported by steamer from outlying areas, for burial at the local cemetery.

Mount Compass

23 – 28 November 2022

We left Port Augusta and made our first stop at Crystal Brook for morning tea in the park. We wandered around the friendly town and had a look in some of the shops, including a community run antiques and collectables shop. We had stopped in Crystal Brook for coffee or lunch a few times but have never stayed overnight and keep saying that is something we must do. Maybe next time.

We continued on and had lunch in the park at Port Wakefield then set off to drive through Adelaide and on to Mount Compass in the Lower Mount Lofty Ranges on the Fleurieu Peninsula. We had arranged to have a couple of nights there with friends Judy and John.

We had never been to Mount Compass before but picked it for its proximity to Cox Scrub, a favourite birding spot. We were pleasantly surprised to find a well laid out caravan park, with lush green grass on the spacious sites. It had a very nice friendly feel about it and was a great place to stay.

We spent the evenings with Judy and John and went out in the mornings to take photos of birds. After 2 nights we all decided to stay an extra night and go for lunch at the pub the next day. The Mount Compass Hotel has a surprisingly large menu – something we haven’t seen for a while – and we all enjoyed a delicious lunch.

Judy and John left to continue their travels after 3 nights at Mount Compass and we ended up staying an extra two nights. The small town had everything we needed – supermarket, op shop, bottle shop and hardware, as well as a gift shop and antique shop.

Each morning we set off early on the 20 minute drive to Cox Scrub. Mick had learned of this place from a local birder he had met at Laratinga Wetlands a couple of years before and it has become a favourite for its reliable puddles of water which attract honeyeaters and parrots. We were first to arrive each morning, with locals coming a little later. We were fortunate that the rain that fell on a couple of days didn’t start until late in the morning so it didn’t interfere with his activities.

From Mount Compass we had a long drive across the border into Victoria to stay in a cottage near Patchewollock.

Port Augusta

21 – 23 November 2022

After our two nights in a cabin in Ceduna we headed eastward off across the top of the Eyre Peninsula with no firm destination in sight. As we drove we checked the weather forecasts and decided that we would probably return to Port Augusta, which is becoming one of our regular stops.

We had lunch in the park at Minnipa and arrived at Port Augusta mid-afternoon. We booked into an ensuite site at the caravan park we always stay at and were pleased that it wasn’t too crowded. It was still quite windy but manageable, and forecast to be lighter overnight and into the next few days.

As always we went to Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens for a walk amongst the beautiful and varied vegetation, and to look for birds to photograph. The gardens look like they have a had a lot of work carried out lately, but the birdlife wasn’t as abundant as usual.

Later in the day we went into town to do some shopping, picking up supplies for the next few days. We have always found Port Augusta to be a good base to restock and the caravan park we choose is very well looked after and has all the required amenities. Being close to the Arid Lands Gardens has made it almost a compulsory stop for us.

We had been in contact with friends who were also travelling through South Australia and arranged to meet them in Mount Compass, so that was where we headed when we left Port Augusta.

Ceduna

19 – 21 November 2022

We had decided on two overnight stops along the Nullarbor so that Mick could again go looking for some local birds at Nullarbor Roadhouse. We calculated our arrival time, taking into consideration another timezone change and it looked like we would arrive mid-afternoon which would allow some birding in the afternoon and again in the morning.

We stopped for fuel at Mundrabilla and then coffee at Eucla where we checked the weather forecast for Nullarbor and our hearts sank – there were gale warnings for much of the Nullarbor and South Australia. We had to consider our options and came to the conclusion that we would have to get a cabin or room as there is no way we could set up the trailer in winds in excess 40km/h (with gusts expected at 80km/h).

We tried to call ahead to Ceduna without success so continued on to Nullarbor Roadhouse. The wind was behind us which made for fantastic fuel economy but it was so strong it was almost impossible to get out of the car. Mick grabbed some bread, butter and promite which he made into sandwiches in the car, while I booked us a cabin in Ceduna.

We knew we wouldn’t arrive in Ceduna until late so I emailed the caravan park to let them know and we continued our journey. When we arrived in Penong it looked like our plans may come completely unstuck with a very serious truck crash on the eastern outskirts of town causing the road to be completely blocked. Fortunately for us a friendly local came over and directed us to some farm tracks that would take us around the accident site and had us back on our way in a few minutes.

We stopped at the Quarantine Checking Station where our fridge and pantry were checked and made it the caravan park just after 6:30pm. We were directed to a very nice cabin where we were able to park the trailer just outside our door. The wind was ferocious so we knew we had made the right decision.

The wind continued throughout the next day, with some rain as well. We did manage to go for a walk to the supermarket in between showers. 

Last time we stayed in Ceduna we had a very nice meal at the pub bistro next door to the caravan park so we decided to do the same again. Our meals were delicious and generous. I had the Boston Bay Mussels again but this time they were cooked in a rich tomato sauce with chorizo for added flavour, and were served with a few prawns and garlic bread. Yum! Mick had his usual chicken schnitzel which he also enjoyed very much.

We left Ceduna and continued driving eastward, not completely sure where we would end up.

Quorn - South Australia

24 - 26 September 2014

After lunch at the pub in Hawker - which we would recommend - we drove on the 60 km to Quorn and Endilloe Lodge which was to be our home for two nights. This "cottage" is a three bedroom house with an orchard, creek bed and more fantastic views.

The massive living area of the "cottage".

A visit to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens in Port Augusta was next on the agenda so we left fairly early for the 40 minute drive, arriving just after 9.00am. Stopped for coffee in the visitor centre while we decided which of the walks we would tackle first.

We chose the 4.5km Red Cliff Walk. My map reading skills are obviously appalling and I had us completely bamboozled within the first fifteen minutes. Thankfully Mick was able to decipher the map - which was actually very easy to read - and we enjoyed a leisurely stroll around the grounds. This walk is very easy, but water and hats were essential. Even though the morning started out quite overcast, the sun emerged and it became a beautiful, and quite warm, day.

View of the gulf from Red Cliff Walk

Red Cliff Walk

There were plenty of wildflowers in bloom, and birds around. Bird hides, seats and interpretive information are provided.

We had lunch in the cafe, choosing from an interesting, well priced menu with lots of local flavours. Then it was back out onto the walks. We criss-crossed around the various paths trying to find the best spots to photograph birds, and generally enjoying the beautiful weather.

Mulga Parrot

This was a full-day excursion and we didn't leave until after 3.00pm. We will certainly be back here again one day.

This is another great spot to find some interesting birds. Singing Honeyeaters and Red Wattle Birds are plentiful and I saw a couple of Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters as well. Out on the salt bush plain, White-winged Fairy Wrens were frequently encountered. One of the highlights for me was the Black-eared Cuckoo I spotted on arrival. It was the first of two (possibly three) 'lifers' for this great place. The other was this Mulga Parrot that ate wattle seeds happily, unconcerned by the clicking of my camera only a few metres away.

The other possible lifer is the Chirruping Wedgebill we were able to see but not photograph. I can't remember if I've seen this bird before. A fellow visitor was nice enough to point out the hiding place of a Boobook Owl. It was quite high in a Gum tree but I managed a reasonable photo. 

We returned the next day to have another crack at the Chirruping Wedgebill but dipped. We did manage to see a couple of goannas flat out like themselves drinking.

Gould's Goanna at the Visitor Centre

Southern Boobook Owl

Wilpena Pound - Flinders Ranges - South Australia

22 - 24 September 2014

We started early in Clare with a yummy - and fairly cheap - breakfast at the bakery and a few photos at the park and then headed off towards the Flinders Ranges. We made the usual stops - at Quorn and Hawker - and arrived at Wilpena Pound Resort in the early afternoon. Our last - and only other - visit to this part of the country was in 1991, when we camped and lived out of the back of a Landcruiser ute. We were doing it in a bit more comfort this time.

Musk Lorikeet at Clare

These Emus were wandering past our accommodation at Wilpena Pound Resort

Grass Tree

Because rain was forecast for the next day we decided to make a start and go for a walk after a cup of tea. We opted for the "Hills Homestead" walk which was described ass  6.6km return walk - and we found it was as described. A well made path, with only a short uneven uphill section. We also made the extra 600m return trek up to the lower "Wangarra Lookout". The upper lookout was out of our reach because of dodgy knees, and unfit bodies. The view from the lower lookout was still awesome. This part of the country is beautiful and we both took lots of photos along the way.

Dinner at the bistro was reasonably priced, nothing fancy, but tasty. The  night was quite cool but nothing like we had experienced over the previous few days. We awoke to bright sunshine, despite the forecast of rain. We checked, and rain was still predicted, but not until evening, and cloud from about lunchtime.

We checked in at the Visitor Centre and picked up a map. On the recommendation of the young man there we decided to head to Brachina Gorge. We had camped there on our our last visit here. This time though we were driving a Toyota Corolla (a hire car) so weren't so confident of getting all the way through to the gorge - and we were right.

The unsealed road from the Wilpena - Blinman road was a fairly easy drive, with some fabulous views along the way, but alas we came to a creek crossing with a huge puddle and water flowing over the causeway so we couldn't go any further. (Well maybe we could have, but we weren't prepared to take the risk). We drove a short way back up the road to park the car and walked back down for a look around.

After that stop we drove on to Blinman which is where the bitumen ends. This is a busy little town, with a pub, a shop/cafe and a few other businesses. There was even an art exhibition in the Blinman Community Hall - part of the "Flinders Ranges - A Brush with Art" festival. We went in to have a look after the obligatory stop for coffee. There are some talented artists in these parts.

Shingleback Lizards are frequently seen on the road, dead and alive

Emus were a common sight on the drive. Males incubate the eggs and raise the chicks.

 We returned to Wilpena Pound - having made a couple of stops to take photos - in time for lunch. By this time there were a few clouds in the sky, but nothing serious looking.

View of Wilpena Pound from Hucks Lookout

Lots of wildflowers around in spring

Red-capped Robin with tasty grub in its beak for its young

After lunch we headed out on the "Boom and Bust" walk (also known as "Droughtbusters Hike") - about 1.5km, described as moderate. This is a loop walk and has a steady, but manageable, uphill climb to a great vantage point. The track is rocky and uneven - and I wished I had brought my hiking boots rather than my joggers. We were in sensory overload with spectacular views, including gathering storm clouds, abundant wildflowers and interesting rock formations. Although there weren't a lot of birds waiting to have their photo taken, this little robin happily obliged. We headed home as the clouds started to close in - looks like we had picked the best time of day for our excursion.






Overnight there was lots of rain, as well as thunder and lightning, but the morning broke clear and cool. Our last morning at Wilpena Pound so we decided to head to "Wood Duck Pond" just up the road a bit. We only stopped for a very short while, then turned back towards Quorn. On the way we stopped to do the "Arkaroo Rock Hike". This was accurately described as "moderate". The gentle climb took us up about 500m and afforded another spectacular Flinders Ranges vista. Everywhere you turn there is a "picture postcard" view.

The vegetation reminded us of a beautiful native garden. The Adnyamathanha rock paintings feature ochre and charcoal images depicting the creation story of Wilpena Pound. Out of respect for the traditional owners of this land, we have chosen not to include photographs of the art site. This is one walk that is a definite must do when visiting the area - it's only 3 km long and 2 km off the main road. The views are stunning, the flora magnificent at this time of year and lots of creatures to see - and maybe photograph. We were both very glad we had made this short detour.

One of the spectacular views on the Arkaroo walk

Australian Ring Neck Parrot. Quite common around the Flinders Ranges.

Variegated fairywren

White-winged fairywren