Ceduna

19 – 21 November 2022

We had decided on two overnight stops along the Nullarbor so that Mick could again go looking for some local birds at Nullarbor Roadhouse. We calculated our arrival time, taking into consideration another timezone change and it looked like we would arrive mid-afternoon which would allow some birding in the afternoon and again in the morning.

We stopped for fuel at Mundrabilla and then coffee at Eucla where we checked the weather forecast for Nullarbor and our hearts sank – there were gale warnings for much of the Nullarbor and South Australia. We had to consider our options and came to the conclusion that we would have to get a cabin or room as there is no way we could set up the trailer in winds in excess 40km/h (with gusts expected at 80km/h).

We tried to call ahead to Ceduna without success so continued on to Nullarbor Roadhouse. The wind was behind us which made for fantastic fuel economy but it was so strong it was almost impossible to get out of the car. Mick grabbed some bread, butter and promite which he made into sandwiches in the car, while I booked us a cabin in Ceduna.

We knew we wouldn’t arrive in Ceduna until late so I emailed the caravan park to let them know and we continued our journey. When we arrived in Penong it looked like our plans may come completely unstuck with a very serious truck crash on the eastern outskirts of town causing the road to be completely blocked. Fortunately for us a friendly local came over and directed us to some farm tracks that would take us around the accident site and had us back on our way in a few minutes.

We stopped at the Quarantine Checking Station where our fridge and pantry were checked and made it the caravan park just after 6:30pm. We were directed to a very nice cabin where we were able to park the trailer just outside our door. The wind was ferocious so we knew we had made the right decision.

The wind continued throughout the next day, with some rain as well. We did manage to go for a walk to the supermarket in between showers. 

Last time we stayed in Ceduna we had a very nice meal at the pub bistro next door to the caravan park so we decided to do the same again. Our meals were delicious and generous. I had the Boston Bay Mussels again but this time they were cooked in a rich tomato sauce with chorizo for added flavour, and were served with a few prawns and garlic bread. Yum! Mick had his usual chicken schnitzel which he also enjoyed very much.

We left Ceduna and continued driving eastward, not completely sure where we would end up.

Madura

 18 – 19 November 2022

After leaving Salmon Gums we stopped briefly at Norseman before finally heading east and on to the Eyre Highway which would take us across the Nullarbor and into South Australia.

We usually have a picnic lunch but we were driving through rain (good thing we replaced the wiper blades), and the sky ahead was dark so we stopped at Balladonia for lunch in the roadhouse before continuing on to Madura.

Travelling east to west we had to adjust our clocks forward 45 minutes so it was after 4:00pm when we pulled up for the night. More rain was forecast but we had timed our arrival well and were able to get set up and dinner organised before the rain started. It was really cold and windy outside so we had our pre-dinner drinks and a grazing platter for dinner inside where we were warm and dry. Sometimes you just have to adapt to the local conditions.

More rain had been forecast for the morning but the sky was clear as we packed up and set off to continue our journey across the Nullarbor.

Back Across the Nullarbor

Fraser Range

28 - 29 November 2018

Leaving Esperance just after lunch we began what we knew would be a few long days on the road. We weren't sure where we would stop but with the temperature well over 30, we figured we might as well go as far as we could. In the end Fraser Range was our choice. We had stayed there on the way west three months ago and we were happy to stay again.

This was just an overnight stop, but in a lovely spot. We were up early - we never did get used to the (approximately) 4:15am sunrises! 

Nullarbor Roadhouse

29 - 30 November 2018

We had a bit of an idea about staying at Madura Roadhouse because when we saw it on the way west we thought it looked nice. The day was again hot, and stopping at a roadhouse early to camp isn't all that appealing so we kept going. We worked out that we could get to Nullarbor before dark.

Crossing over the border into South Australia meant we lost 2 hours, but it also meant an end to the very early mornings. We kept on driving and arrived at Nullarbor Roadhouse after 7:00pm, but the sun was still up. We picked a spot in the camping area and went into the bar for a burger and drink. The meal was good and the drink welcome after such a long day.

The reason Mick had wanted to stay at Nullarbor was the Nullarbor Quail-thrush so we headed out along a dirt track in the morning. The guide book Mick uses gave instructions for driving along the fenceline so that's what we did. We found the spot - but no Quail-thrush so eventually turned around and headed back for the main road. Part way along the track a bird sat a little way in front of us - yes, it was the Nullarbor Quail-thrush. Unfortunately it flew away before Mick could get a photo. We spotted another one flying off into the bush a little further along.

A truck hits the road heading towards a spectacular sunrise.

Sun's up, time to go hunting birds.

Slender-billed Thornbill. A second new bird for the morning and a decent photo as well.

Slender-billed Thornbill

We returned to the campground, packed up and headed off towards Streaky Bay.

Streaky Bay 

30 November 2018 - 1 December 2018

Again it was a very hot day so it was more comfortable in the car than outside. We chose the caravan park at Streaky Bay that had ensuite sites and a view of the bay. It was still really hot when we arrived after 3:00pm so we were glad to be able to spend some time in the cool of the well-appointed recreation room.

The forecast was for strong winds through the night so once again we had to attach extra ropes to the awning. Rain was also forecast for the morning. With the rain clouds looming we packed quickly and managed to avoid getting wet canvas. 

There were storms around and high winds forecast for most of the state so we weren't sure what to do. We decided to drive towards Port Augusta and make up our minds along the way.

Port Augusta

1 - 2 November 2018

We drove through a couple of showers but the further east we drove, the nastier the weather became. The wind was very strong and there were some very ominous looking clouds ahead. Then we saw lightning! We stopped at Kimba for lunch in a cafe just ahead of the storm. As we were leaving there was a huge clap of thunder.

Approaching storm.

We drove on and kept checking the weather radar. It looked like the storms would impact any of our proposed overnight stops. We had hoped to go down onto the Yorke Peninsular but in the end we decided a cabin in Port Augusta would be our best option. 

We arrived mid-afternoon and checked into a near-new cabin at the caravan park where we had stayed on the way to WA. The rain and thunder continued, and the wind blew throughout the afternoon while we enjoyed air-conditioning and television. After 100 days on the road we figured we deserved this treat.

After a lazy start to the morning we set off for yet another visit to the Australian Arid  Lands Botanic Gardens. The weather was kind and there were a few birds about. From there we headed to Mount Barker in the Adelaide Hills.

Not many birds about but I managed a few shots. White-browed Babbler.

White-fronted Honeyeater

Male Superb Fairywren

Across the Nullarbor - Border Village and Fraser Range

Border Village

15 – 16 September

From our short detour to Fowler’s Bay we returned to the Sturt Highway and headed west across the Nullarbor. We found a nice rest area for a lunch stop and then detoured again to The Head of the Bight. This tourist facility is built on Yalata land, and has boardwalks and viewing platforms that allow fabulous views up and down the coast – and the promised whales were right there in front of us. We saw at least 6, including 2 mothers and their calves, one of which lolled and played close to shore for most of the time we were there. This is one detour that was definitely worth the drive – but we really needed our warmies and beanies as well as binoculars and cameras.

The distant rock in the next image taken with the 500mm lens.

One of the walkways that lead to viewing platforms.

Southern Right Whale calf.

This Southern Right Whale calf was very active.

Mother and calf.

A close look at the rugged cliffs of 'The Bight'.

We braved the cold and windy conditions to walk to most of the lookouts.

Typical of the lookouts on the crossing.

From there we drove on to Nullarbor Roadhouse where we refuelled – at $2.05 per litre, this was the most expensive diesel of the trip so far. We decided to press on and eventually made it to Border Village, right on the border of South Australia and Western Australia. We stayed in the campground and decided on a meal from the roadhouse restaurant to make it an easy camp. The meals were surprisingly good and reasonably priced, especially given the remote location.

Australasian Pipits were fairly common.

The night was, as expected, extremely cold and in the morning my weather app informed us that it was 3° but it felt like -0.5°. Glad we had set up to have breakfast inside the tent with the heater on. My hands nearly froze as I collected the tea and cereal, not to mention diving into the fridge for the milk!

An Australian Magpie encountered on one of our lunch stops.

We decided to make this a big day’s drive so set off early – we weren’t really sure what time it was as we were on the border between two time zones, all our clocks and watches said different times and I was totally confused. We did discover that WA uses two time zones, and that we needed to turn our clocks back 45 minutes, but the electronic devices didn’t recognise that time zone and had us on Perth time – back another 45 minutes again. No wonder I was confused.

Fraser Range

16 – 17 September 2018

Our first stop for the day was the Quarantine Inspection Station, 50 metres down the road where we surrendered our one remaining potato and onion, as well as our honey. Travellers should be aware of the restrictions and try to use up anything that might not be permitted, before entering WA (or other states and fruit fly restriction zones).

We stopped for a morning coffee at the roadhouse at Cocklebiddy, then found the Baxter Rest Area for lunch. Picnic tables, a toilet and lots of space made this an ideal spot, except for the resident magpies who sat on the table and at our feet looking longingly at our sandwiches. They weren’t cheeky enough to snatch and grab thankfully.

From there we stopped at Balladonia Roadhouse for an afternoon coffee. We had a quick look in the museum that houses a range of artefacts, local history and even a piece of space junk from Skylab that fell from the sky in 1979.  We then continued on to Fraser Range.

The caravan park is located on a sheep farm and is very well set up. After a friendly and professional welcome we found a nice spot with lots of trees around. We went for a bit of a walk and returned to find the local crows had helped themselves to the curry I had left thawing out on the bench. I usually put frozen food in a plastic container to prevent just such an occurrence, but had forgotten to this time, Bugger! Lucky I had another one in the freezer.

Most people crossing the Nullabor camp at a roadhouse or free camp but this place has a little more character.

Lots of travelers have left their mark on the camp kitchen table.

After dinner we made our way to the communal fire pit which was very well set up with a wind break and some rustic seating. A nice way to end the day. In the morning we decided to head for Kalgoorlie, for no other reason except we had never been there before.