Monday 17 September 2018

Across the Nullarbor - Border Village and Fraser Range

Border Village
15 – 16 September


From our short detour to Fowler’s Bay we returned to the Sturt Highway and headed west across the Nullarbor. We found a nice rest area for a lunch stop and then detoured again to The Head of the Bight. This tourist facility is built on Yalata land, and has boardwalks and viewing platforms that allow fabulous views up and down the coast – and the promised whales were right there in front of us. We saw at least 6, including 2 mothers and their calves, one of which lolled and played close to shore for most of the time we were there. This is one detour that was definitely worth the drive – but we really needed our warmies and beanies as well as binoculars and cameras.

The distant rock in the next image taken with the 500mm lens.
One of the walkways that lead to viewing platforms.
Southern Right Whale calf.
This Southern Right Whale calf was very active.
Mother and calf.
A close look at the rugged cliffs of 'The Bight'.
We braved the cold and windy conditions to walk to most of the lookouts.
Typical of the lookouts on the crossing.
From there we drove on to Nullarbor Roadhouse where we refuelled – at $2.05 per litre, this was the most expensive diesel of the trip so far. We decided to press on and eventually made it to Border Village, right on the border of South Australia and Western Australia. We stayed in the campground and decided on a meal from the roadhouse restaurant to make it an easy camp. The meals were surprisingly good and reasonably priced, especially given the remote location.
Australasian Pipits were fairly common.
The night was, as expected, extremely cold and in the morning my weather app informed us that it was 3° but it felt like -0.5°. Glad we had set up to have breakfast inside the tent with the heater on. My hands nearly froze as I collected the tea and cereal, not to mention diving into the fridge for the milk!

An Australian Magpie encountered on one of our lunch stops.
We decided to make this a big day’s drive so set off early – we weren’t really sure what time it was as we were on the border between two time zones, all our clocks and watches said different times and I was totally confused. We did discover that WA uses two time zones, and that we needed to turn our clocks back 45 minutes, but the electronic devices didn’t recognise that time zone and had us on Perth time – back another 45 minutes again. No wonder I was confused.


Fraser Range
16 – 17 September 2018

Our first stop for the day was the Quarantine Inspection Station, 50 metres down the road where we surrendered our one remaining potato and onion, as well as our honey. Travellers should be aware of the restrictions and try to use up anything that might not be permitted, before entering WA (or other states and fruit fly restriction zones).

We stopped for a morning coffee at the roadhouse at Cocklebiddy, then found the Baxter Rest Area for lunch. Picnic tables, a toilet and lots of space made this an ideal spot, except for the resident magpies who sat on the table and at our feet looking longingly at our sandwiches. They weren’t cheeky enough to snatch and grab thankfully.

From there we stopped at Balladonia Roadhouse for an afternoon coffee. We had a quick look in the museum that houses a range of artefacts, local history and even a piece of space junk from Skylab that fell from the sky in 1979.  We then continued on to Fraser Range.

The caravan park is located on a sheep farm and is very well set up. After a friendly and professional welcome we found a nice spot with lots of trees around. We went for a bit of a walk and returned to find the local crows had helped themselves to the curry I had left thawing out on the bench. I usually put frozen food in a plastic container to prevent just such an occurrence, but had forgotten to this time, Bugger! Lucky I had another one in the freezer.

Most people crossing the Nullabor camp at a roadhouse or free camp but this place has a little more character.
Lots of travelers have left their mark on the camp kitchen table.
After dinner we made our way to the communal fire pit which was very well set up with a wind break and some rustic seating. A nice way to end the day. In the morning we decided to head for Kalgoorlie, for no other reason except we had never been there before.

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