Hughenden

21 – 22 September 2023

Leaving Boulia early we discussed our plans and both agreed to scrap the next part of the trip due to the weather. We would forego Opalton and birding near Lark Quarry, in exchange for some time on the Atherton Tablelands and along the Tropical North Queensland Coast. We both felt this was a fair and sensible swap, and that we could come “out west” during Autumn.

We made a number of birding stops, including at the old Hamilton Hotel historic site and had morning tea at Middleton before continuing on to Winton. We met up with friends Wendy and Jay who had a rare couple of hours off, so we joined them for lunch at the café in the Waltzing Matilda Visitor Centre.

After a quick round of the grocery store, we hit the road again with the plan being to stay the night in Hughenden, before moving on the Atherton Tablelands. It was still in the high 30’s when we arrived in Hughenden so we sat in the very well-appointed camp kitchen before setting up our overnight camp.

We had no need to be up so early, but we still managed to get packed up, buy groceries, meat and fuel and be on the road before 9:00am. We planned to drive to Mount Garnet, along the Kennedy Development Road, just because we’d never been that way before.  We called in to the Porcupine Gorge Lookout along the way. We had thought about camping at the gorge but with the heat it wouldn’t have been pleasant, and way too hot to walk down into the gorge.

Boulia

20 -21 September 2023

Leaving Bedourie and heading north, once again we made a few stops to photograph birds. Mick spotted some likely habitat and his assessment was spot on. He managed to get some photos that he was reasonably happy with, given the harsh conditions in the middle of the day.

We stopped for lunch at a rest area and then drove in to one of the campgrounds near the Georgina River where we had thought we might stay. We found birding friend Paula camped there but decided to keep moving on – the high temperatures were having us causing us to seriously rethink our plans. With the kite photo “in the bag”, Mick was satisfied with his efforts so we pushed on to Boulia.

We bought some groceries and fuelled up before heading to the caravan park to try to find a shady spot. There wasn’t much to choose from, but it was quite late in the day so we managed with some dappled shade until the sun started to go down. We planned an early start so we could visit friends in Winton, so set the alarm for 5:30am.

Up before the sun, we were breakfasted and packed up, and on the road as the sun started to rise. Hope we didn’t make too much noise and disturb the neighbours.

Richmond

13 - 14 September 2017

We drove towards Cloncurry, with a stop at another potential birdwatching spot. Chinaman Creek Dam is only a few kilometres west of Cloncurry and a nice spot for a stop. There is a big picnic area, but camping is not allowed. It's quiet during the week, but there is lots of activity on the weekends. 

We spent a short while there before continuing on into Cloncurry to refuel and to stop at the visitor centre. We decided to keep driving east and to make Richmond our final destination. We stopped for lunch in Julia Creek and shouted ourselves lunch in an air-conditioned cafe. It was a welcome relief from the heat outside.

We made it into Richmond and and opted for an unpowered spot in the caravan park. The unpowered sections - there are three that are not all in use at the same time - have a lovely aspect with a view over Lake Fred Tritton. Because it was still relatively early, we were able to snag the only really shady spot under a tree. Shade and water views!

Fishing on the lake. Later there was a, not so welcome, jet ski spoiling the serenity.

White-necked Heron.

Female Magpie Lark.

Great Crested Grebe

We walked down to the lake thinking that we might go for a swim later, but it wasn't too oppressively hot and the water looked quite murky so we decided a nice sit in the shade would do. During the afternoon a breeze kept the heat at bay. The breeze turned into quite a stiff wind overnight, knocking over our chairs and blowing towels around. We were glad we hadn't put up the awing as we were sure it would have blown down in the middle of the night.

Somewhat reluctantly we set off for the final, final leg of our epic journey in the morning. 

Clem Walton Park

12 - 13 September 2017

We first visited in 2014 and fell in love with the place, so we were keen to return. The turn-off is about half-way between Cloncurry and Mount Isa, and is well signposted. You have to drive through a gate at the start of the road, then turn off to Clem Walton Park and go through another gate. The road is narrow, unsealed and windy, but it is worth it to get to this spot. Don't confuse Clem Walton Park with Corella Dam which is accessed from the same highway turn-off, but the dam campground is usually chocka-block full of caravans and not nearly as peaceful as the smaller and harder to get to spot on the creek.

Because we weren't far away at West Leichardt Station we arrived well before lunch time and there were a couple of caravans and camper vans in the main picnic/camping area, and some more further along the creek. There are toilets at the picnic area so we picked a spot there and were lucky to get one right on the creek - with water views. Last time we visited there was only a few puddles but this time there was a creek full of water. Unfortunately it was also full of weeds so a swim was out of the question.

Much more water present than our first visit.

Even more unfortunate, we had arrived in the middle of a heat wave - with temperatures expected to reach the mid-thirties for a few days. We were hoping to stay for two or three nights, but after experiencing 37° in the shade and 49° inside the tent during the afternoon we decided to have just one night before finding somewhere cooler, or with a pool. As luck would have it though, we still had ice-creams in the freezer so it wasn't a complete disaster of an afternoon.

This was a great birding spot when we first visited. With only a couple of water holes remaining, birds were more concentrated and easier to get close to. The same birds were about but were drinking on the far side of the creek among thick vegetation.  

We heard camels coming in to drink in the early hours of the morning but did not see them. Mick

There were plenty of Hardheads in the creek.

Even room for a Pelican.

Quiet cattle roamed through the camp in the afternoon.

There were a few Mertens' Water Monitors around this time.

The one positive of warmer temperatures is that it is much easier to pack up the camper trailer when the canvas is warm so we made a reasonably early start in the morning and headed towards Cloncurry.

West Leichardt Station

10 – 12 September 2017

We had heard of West Leichardt Station and friends recommended it so we decided that would be our next stop. Mick was keen to search for the Kalkadoon and Carpentaria grasswrens in Mount Isa, but I wasn’t keen on staying there so West Leichardt, only 30kms out of town, seemed like a reasonable compromise.

About 30kms west of Mount Isa we turned down the road to Gunpowder and drove about 8kms to a spot where the grasswrens might be found. No luck – again, so on through Mount Isa and then to West Leichardt Station. The station is about 30 kms out of Mount Isa, along the Lake Julius Road.

This is a working cattle station and it's possible to help out or tag along if you want to. We didn't this time.

We were greeted by Michelle and shown a couple of options for camping, and we chose the shadiest. It was a very hot day, and the forecast for the following one was to be even hotter.  We had a bit of a look around and Mick was delighted to see that the house dam had water in it. He visited a number of times over the two days we spent there, and also took lots of photos right at our camp where many birds visited. Late each afternoon guests, workers and station volunteers gather on the lawn for happy hour. The barbecue is fired up and guests are welcome to cook their dinner there while enjoying the company and a drink or two.

As the surrounding dams and creeks dry up, the bore water used around the homestead becomes a lifeline to wildlife.

One of a group of Grey-crowned Babblers hunting on the well watered grass.

Little Friarbird, one of several medium sized, greyish birds that were common around camp.

Gregarious and very entertaining, Apostlebirds were never far away.

A Spotted Bowerbird and Silver-crowned Friarbird face off behind our camp.

Silver-crowned Friarbird, a new bird for me.

The Spotted Bowerbird getting cranky.

We had thought to drive back into Mt Isa in the morning but the forecast was for a maximum in the mid-thirties so we decided to just stay in camp and try to stay cool. There was little chance of seeing birds about in that heat - they would be seeking a shady place too if they had any sense.

The walk to and around  the house dam was quite rewarding. As well as the species below, I saw Black-breasted Buzzard, Restless Flycatcher, Crimson Chat and Sulphur-crested Cockatoo. Mick.

Rainbow Bee-eater

Brown Quail

Varied Lorikeet in a flowering gum.

Grey-fronted Honeyeater. My second new bird for this stop.

Rufous-throated Honeyeaters were common around the house dam.

We set off in the morning to return to a favourite spot - Clem Walton Park between Mt Isa and Cloncurry.

Camooweal

9- 10 September 2017

We left Wauchope and continued north on the Stuart Highway, stopping for a quick look at markets at Tennant Creek. We finally turned in the direction of home just south of Threeways. From here the Barkly Highway heads roughly east towards the Queensland border. We stopped for a cuppa at the 41 Mile Bore Rest Area. Mick was hopeful that there would be some birdlife as there was water in the dam, but just as he was getting ready to go for a walk, along came a truck to spoil his fun.

We continued on to Barkly Roadhouse where we considered staying, but it wasn’t quite lunch time so pressed on and found a reasonable spot at Wonarah Bore for a lunch stop. It was very hot and there were millions of flies so we had to eat our sandwiches in the car. Lucky we had made them before we left Wauchope.

We eventually crossed the border into Queensland, adjusted our watches and made our next stop at Camooweal. Again we chose the caravan park behind the pub. This one was quite well organised with mostly big drive through sites. This is the sort of place where most people just pull in for an overnighter like we did.

It was still fairly early so we went for a short walk before going into the pub for a coffee and cold drink. The surroundings were pleasant and the coffee surprisingly good. Mick made inquiries about a location mentioned in the information sheet given to us when we checked in. Lake Francis is a billabong on the Georgina River, just on the edge of town and reported to be a good birdwatching spot.

Yellow-billed Spoonbills feeding at Lake Francis

Male Orange Chat.

In the morning we packed up and drove back over the bridge to Lake Francis. This is a very popular free camping spot and there were a few caravans and campervans scattered around. There is heaps of room and the best spots would be those further down the dirt track to the water’s edge. Mick spent a while photographing birds before we set off again, heading towards Mount Isa. 

Winton

5 - 7 May

We decided to have a couple of nights in a motel in Winton as a treat for my birthday - and because it was getting too hot to camp. Even though it was nearly the end of autumn, the temperatures were in the low thirties during the day. We had a look around and chose the Outback Motel - close to the shops and pubs, recently updated and reasonably priced. We were able to check in straight away, even thought it was only lunchtime.

We spent the afternoon wandering through the shops (well, it didn't really take that long) and catching up on washing, reading and processing photos - all in air conditioned comfort.

A pair of Brolgas were hanging around the motel hoping for a hand out.

In the morning we made the short trip (about 28 km) to the Australian Age of Dinosaurs - a showcase for the local prehistoric inhabitants. This centre has only been open for a few years and has evolved out of a farmer's passion for the fossilised dinosaur bones he was finding on his property. David and Judy Elliott have embraced their unique finds and have lead the development of this special exhibit.

The building housing the collection room, gift shop and cafe is well designed, borrowing from the surrounding environment.

A view from the top of the jump up.

Visitors are taken on two guided tours - the collection room and the laboratory. This is the only place you can see the specimens being prepared. Each tour takes about 30 minutes with a 30 minute break in between.

On the day we visited, the 10.00 tour was of the collection room where real (not replica) fossils of "Banjo" (a theropod dinosaur) and "Matilda" (a sauropod dinosaur) are on display. Each is the first of its type of dinosaur to be found. The enthusiasm and passion of our young guide was amazing. It seems when you work in the museum, you are also part of the team going into the field collecting specimens and then preparing them back in the lab. No wonder there is so much enthusiasm among the staff.

The fossilised leg bones of Matilda contrasting with the thigh bone of a Brahman bull.

Grace was our ebullient guide in the collection room.

The 11.00 tour was to the laboratory, where you get to see the giant casings containing yet to be processed bones (and other fossils). The centre has an extensive and well set up volunteer program. It was a real treat to see them at work and chat to them about their passion.  Australian Age of Dinosaurs is a non-for- profit organisation and registered charity.

Guide Carlin talks us through the displays in the lab shed.

He prefers to work on delicate fossils such as small crabs and shells.

Volunteers at their delicate and painstaking work, removing the surrounding stone from ancient fossils.

Carlin shows us how it's done (slowly and carefully!).

Now there's another dinosaur in Christie's life.

This is a very interesting way to to spend a few hours and in a beautifully rugged setting.

Bladensburg National Park

4 - 5 May

We left Opalton, bound for Bladensburg National Park, not far from Winton, so it was back along the dirt road. We stopped for some bird photos of course, and arrived in time for lunch.

It was hot enough to have us seriously consider swimming in the muddy water.

We found a campsite at Bough Shed Hole Campground, right by the waterhole. Even though it was very hot, it was still a really nice place to camp. There was only us and one other couple camped nearby so it was a peaceful place to stay overnight.

In the morning we drove along the Route of the River Gums (the main road through the park) back towards Winton. We couldn't resist a stop at Skull Hole! Once we arrived back in Winton we chose a motel for the next two nights - a special treat for my birthday!

Sounds nice, let's go!

Viewed at a distance, clumps of Spinifex soften the harsh landscape but up close they are needle sharp and to be avoided.

Christie looks over the edge at Skull Hole.