After two nights at Twelve Mile Lagoon we moved on to another campground within the National Park - Hann Crossing. We've stayed there a couple of times before, but when we booked a few weeks before leaving Ravenshoe we weren't able to get the spot we wanted to so were forced to choose another one that we didn't think would be as good. As luck would have it I checked again a few days before we were due to arrive and was able to get back onto the spot we had last time. It's right on the river, huge, a short walk to the toilets and quite private.
We left Twelve Mile quite late and stopped again at the ranger station, then continued on to Hann Crossing. Because we were only staying one night we didn't bother with the awning. This would also allow us to get away early in the morning.
Up early, ready to move on
We set up camp on the river at Hann Crossing and enjoyed a very relaxing afternoon, which included some birdwatching of course. In the morning we left as the sun was coming up and drove to another good birding spot, Nifold Plain. Mick spent a while taking photos and we had our breakfast there before we moved on to another spot to hopefully photograph the Red goshawk.
We'd found the goshawk on our ill-fated trip north the previous year so Mick was hopeful to find it again. His patience was rewarded with some great shots of the bird and it's nest. From there we drove on to Musgrave Roadhouse and the south to Artemis Station.
After 5 nights at Hahndorf, and having both the car and camper trailer in to repairers we were ready to start making our way towards the Victorian border. We chose Meningie as our next stop and managed to book site in the caravan park, right on the lake. We'd stayed there before and it's a nice town, on beautiful Lake Albert.
We left Hahndorf and made one last stop at Laratinga Wetlands. Mick was rewarded with some shots of a blue-billed duck. From Mount Barker we drove on towards Langhorne Creek on the Fleurieu Peninsula. This is just one of South Australia's many wine regions. From there we made our way to Wellington, where we crossed the Murray River on a ferry again.
We arrived in Meningie, on the northern edge of the Coorong, just on lunch time so stopped at the park in town to have a picnic lunch and a walk. We were surprised at just how many people were doing the same thing. It was a beautiul day, but quite windy. After lunch we drove on the caravan park and set up on the lake's edge site that had been allocated for us. It is such a lovely place to sit and watch the lake and it's resident birdlife.
We had a quiet couple of days in Meningie but did get down to the bird hide just near the school. Unfortunately we had timed our arrival to coincide with a school activity! We left them to it, and headed up to the lookout.
Our next, and final nights, in South Australia would be Mount Gambier so we decided to stop in Robe on our way there.
We set off from Gluepot, carefully negotiating the mud and damaged sections of road. We had hoped to spend a few more days there but a problem with the camper trailer, which would require a repair meant we had to make our way towards Adelaide. We crossed the River Murray back into Waikerie and then headed for Blanchetown where we stopped for a picnic lunch.
While we were at Waikerie we tried to book in to the caravan park at Mount Barker. Unfortunately they were only taking bookings from fully self contained travellers so we had to look elsewhere. We were able to book a site for a couple of nights at Hahndorf which is close enough to Mount Barker to allow easy visits to Laratinga Wetlands.
From Blanchetown we followed the river until we crossed again at Walker Flat - again on a ferry. From there it was on through Mannum and on to Murray Bridge. At Murray Bridge we pulled into a car wash to remove the vast quantities of sticky mud from Gluepot that had adhered to every lower surface on the car and camper trailer, and the dust covering the rest.
We checked in at Hahndorf with plenty of time to make an afternoon visit to Laratinga Wetlands. Laratinga has become a favourite when we are in the Adelaide Hills area and we have visited a few times. This time the water level was much higher than previously and the bird life wasn't as good as Mick had expected but he did meet a fellow birder who told him about anothe spot - Cox Scrub - that would be worth visiting.
We decided that a morning visit to Cox Scrub would be in order so we set off quite early and found our way there. Chris provided very explicit directions and we were able to find the right spot - two small puddles of water on the walking track that attracted a number of birds. Mick sat happily with the tripod for some time. It was a lovely spot but quite cold, with the early morning mist still low on the hills. There are no facilities at Cox Scrub, but there are a number of well marked walking tracks.
When we returned home we contacted a repairer to enquire about having the zip replaced on the Cub and they were able to fit us in straight away. This led to a mad dash to cancel our campsite and find a cabin for the rest of the week. Fortunately they were able to meet our needs where we were at Hahndorf so we unpacked the trailer and moved all our gear into a cabin, before driving in to the repairer in Adelaide. We would have some luxury for the next 4 nights.
We also had the car booked in to have some work done so that was another trip in to Adelaide as well. While we were staying at Hahndorf we revisited Cox Scrub a couple of more times and generally stayed out of the way of the "touristy" spots. We didn't want to compromise our ability to enter Tasmania without quarantine by being caught in a "hot spot". We collected the trailer on Saturday and left Hahndorf on Sunday morning. We had decided Meningie would be a good place for a couple of days as we worked out way towards the Victorian border.
We set off for Gluepot knowing we could stay up to 5 days if we wanted to, but aiming for 3 or 4. The weather had cleared and we were expecting a few warm days, with over 30 by mid-week. Shortly after the turn-off we started to see the effects of some very heavy rain over the last few days. Gluepot rarely receives much rain, but this had not been the case in the previous weeks, with over 60mm recorded. The road in traverses private property and there were a number of very large puddles which had to be negotiated carefully around. Further on there was a stretch where the road had been washed away requiring some precision driving.
There was more very large puddles once we reached Gluepot itself. We tried to drive around each one so as not to further damage the road. We stopped at Emu Hide on the way in and chatted with some fellow birders. On arrival at the visitor centre we signed in and met the ranger. After a quick chat, and after paying our modest camping fees we made our way to Babbler Campground. Each of the three campgrounds are well set up with toilets and some picnic tables. Fires are definitely not allowed on the property. We chose a spot with its own picnic table and settled in.
Late in the afternoon we made our way to Whistler Tank Hide at the suggestion of the ranger who indicated that the Regent Parrots may be found there. It was a short drive from Babbler Campground, then a 2.5km walk. Afternoon probably wasn't the best time to be there but it was a good walk anyway and allowed MIck to work out when he should be heading off in the morning.
Up at 5:00am, Mick set off for Whistler Hide while I enjoyed a quiet morning at camp. He was rewarded with lots of photos of the parrots was well as other species. He repeated the effort the following morning and was similarly rewarded. In the afternoon we took a drive around to some of the other hides - carefully avoiding the worst of the wet roads.
On our final morning we ventured across the road to the Babbler Walk (South). Not far in, Mick found a very birdy spot so he stayed there while I continued on the 2.7km walk. I had been using a hiking app on my phone and discovered that it was actually 3.3km. It was well marked and easy though. Once we were both back at camp we packed up and departed the campground.
We stopped at the visitor centre to check out and the ranger advised us that they had actually closed the reserve again the previous day as a result of the state of the road in. Although we had not experienced too much difficulty getting through they were concerned about potential visitors in 2WD vehicles. We were indeed fortunate to get in when we did.
We set off back to Waikerie and then on towards Mount Barker and another favourite birding spot.
We left Port Broughton and headed inland towards Burra to Red Banks Conservation Park. We wanted to get to Gluepot Reserve but rain had closed the roads there for a couple of days so we decided to try camping at Red Banks, near Burra. We had visited the day use area and it looked like it would be a great overnight spot.
On the way we stopped at Crystal Brook for a stretch and then Burra for lunch. We had a walk around the town and visited the local art gallery after our picnic by the creek. From there we set off for Red Banks.
When we arrived we were the only ones in the campground so had the pick of the spots. We drove right around and chose a drive through spot with a view of the mallee and the banks a short distance away. We were pleasantly surprised just how warm the day had become but were prepared for another very cold night. There was little to no wind which was also a nice change. During the afternoon one other camper trailer arrived and set up on the other side of the campground. The binoculars gave it away - a fellow birder.
In the morning Mick was up just on sunrise and out in the mallee with the camera, while I slept in. We had a leisurely breakfast and decided to stay until after morning tea. We then headed over to the day use area for another look around and ran into the neighbour. Of course there was an in-depth conversation about where to find which birds.
We had checked the weather and decided we would wait out the rainy days to come in Waikerie, so we headed for the caravan park which is on the River Murray.
We went for a walk on the property before leaving Charleville, bound for Cunnamulla. We usually stay at Bowra Bird Sanctuary but it had closed for the season so we decided to give Charlotte Plains a try. Mick had spoken to some fellow bird photographers who recommended the Bore Camp so we booked 2 nights.
On our way south from Charleville we noticed a warning light had come on indicating a problem with the car's timing belt. Given that this particular item had (or should have) been replaced at the 150,000km service only 1000km ago, we were a little concerned. Once we arrived in Cunnamulla we headed to the local RACQ agent who, although unable to reset the warning, was able to reassure us that is was just a reminder that should have been reset at the service.
Happy that all was well with the car, we drove back to the park near the visitor centre for a picnic lunch. A quick look in the Visitor Information Centre and we were armed with some information about possible places to stay on our way west, we then headed east towards St George, before turning off for Charlotte Plains Station.
We made our way to the homestead where we checked in and chatted to owner Robyn, before driving back the way we had come to the Bore Head Camp ground. This open area is situated along the bore drain, with some shady trees, flushing toilets, hot showers and baths for soaking in the artesian water. Although rustic and basic, the amenities were clean and there was plenty of room to find a good spot in the campground.
Of course Mick spent much of the time trying to photograph the abundant birdlife. Fortunately the weather had improved and it was not as hot as the previous few days. A cool breeze contributed to a very pleasant afternoon.
The temperature dropped considerably overnight and the cool breeze made for a beautiful morning. We decided to sample the delights of an artesian bath mid-morning. Lying in the warm water watching and listening to the birds was a perfect way to relax.
We spent the rest of the day chasing the shade and doing what we enjoy - reading for me and photographing birds for Mick. There were other friendly birders here so lots of opportunity to compare notes. During the afternoon we decided on an extra night, giving us three here. We knew the forecast was for another really hot day after a couple of milder ones, but it would be the same no matter where we stayed.
A bird, the bush and a bore drain - how much better can it get?
Tuesday night wasn't as cool as Monday had been, but the temperature did still drop during the might. On Wednesday morning, Mick rose early to go down to a now favourite spot, and once again we luxuriated in a bore bath before smoko. The temperature continued to work it's way towards 40° and we really struggled in the heat. We found a bore bath in the shade during the afternoon. Filling it while the water was still relatively cool made it a pleasant soak and a relief from the heat.
The temperature kept rising through the afternoon making it very difficult to do anything except follow the shade. After dinner, when the bugs were out in force we soaked in a tub and marvelled at the stars and satellites above us. Thursday morning was shaping up to be another hot one, and with no internet access we were unable to check the forecast. We packed up in a leisurely fashion and made our way into Cunnamulla. We filled a gas bottle and then headed to the bakery cafe where we checked our messages and the all important weather forecast.
As much as we would have liked to visit a few camping spots as we made our way towards Thargomindah, the promise of 40 degrees and thunderstorms had us making the decision that it would be another cabin night.
We don’t usually look for station stays, but this would have
to be one of the best. Well marked walking tracks lead to three dams – Garden
Dam, Big Dam and Number 1 Dam. Because we had a powered site, Mick was able to
catch up on some photo editing while I spent another relaxing afternoon with a
good book. There was a book exchange in the laundry (as there often is in
caravan parks) so I was able to swap one I had finished a few days before, for
one by a favourite author.
In the late afternoon we went for a walk and visited each of
the dams. Number 1 Dam is supposed to be the best for birds but there wasn’t
much action at the time we were there. It was a very nice, easy walk anyway.
Pinnarendi Station is a working cattle station that is a
fabulous blend of station stay and caravan park – all the amenities you would
expect, with access to bush right there. We will most probably be back some
time for a longer stay.
In the morning we decided to try for Flat Creek Station out
of Georgetown. We stopped at Mount Surprise for coffee then drove through
Georgetown to Cumberland Dam for lunch. This is a lovely free (donations
welcome) camp spot that is popular with bird watchers and caravanners alike.
After lunch by the dam we headed off for Flat Creek Station – another spot that
promised good bird watching.
From Lakeland we turned off the Peninsula Development Road
and back onto the Mulligan Highway on the way to Cooktown. Not wanting to
arrive right on lunch time we stopped at boat ramp on the Annan River for a
slightly early picnic lunch, then on into Cooktown to find a caravan park. We
hadn’t booked and were surprised to find there were no vacancies at our first
choice. We drove on to our second choice, where we had stayed before a couple
of times, and secured the last available powered site for two days. The tourism
industry is supposed to be doing it tough, but this was not evidence of that.
We spent the afternoon considering our options for Rinyurri
Lakefield National Park, only to find there were no campsites available until
the end of the following week – the park was only opening on 1 June following a
big wet season and was already filling up fast. We didn’t have the luxury of
unlimited time so had to scratch that from the list. We also considered a
couple pf days at the highly rated Elim Beach but had to abandon that idea when
we realised we could not comply with the alcohol restrictions. As we were to be
on the road for a number of weeks, we were carrying extra beer and cask wine.
Cask wine is not permitted, and only one carton of beer is allowed. We’d have
to save that for another time too.
In the afternoon we drove into town, and walked along the
waterfront (Endeavour River). Spotting a family of kingfishers was a pleasant
surprise so Mick spent some time trying to get some photos of them. There is a
well-stocked independent supermarket so we bought some supplies before
returning to the caravan park.
In the morning we headed out to Mulbabidgee Keatings Lagoon
– another favourite spot. More disappointment when we saw the locked gate and
the sign saying the walk, which includes the bird hide and picnic area, was
closed due to flooding. We were able to walk along the fenceline adjacent to the
road and get a good look at the lagoon which was teeming with birds up in the
trees, but not much on the water. The waterbirds come to Mulbabidgee when the
other waterholes dry up, which hadn’t happened yet.
Sheltering from a passing shower, we were in the car when
the Ranger arrived – to check and open the track! Great timing, we were the
first into the conservation area and spent a short time at the bird hide,
before heading back into town. On the way we took a short detour to Quarantine
Bay – a very pretty spot – before returning home for coffee.
Washing done and hung out, the clouds had moved on so we set
off for the Cooktown Botanical Gardens. This is a beautiful spot, developed in
an area that was once used by Chinese market gardeners, in the late 1800’s. At
this time of year it was lush and green, and was a hive of activity as staff
watered and spread mulch. We returned home for lunch and to catch up on some
housekeeping, before returning to the waterfront to revisit the kingfishers –
always chasing that perfect shot.
In the morning we packed up the trailer and left it on the
caravan park site while we went in to town to get fuel and have one last look
for the kingfishers – and yes, they were there again. After a short session
with the camera we went back and hitched up the trailer, then drove back into
town for coffee and a quick look around. Our next destination, Lion’s Den Hotel
at Rossville, was only a short drive away.
We left Lake Eacham and drove back through Atherton and
Mareeba before continuing on to Mount Molloy where we stopped for a picnic
lunch. Rifle Creek is a very popular free camp just north of Mount Molloy, and
has a few picnic tables, as well as toilets. From there we drove on towards
Mount Carbine, but took a short detour at Maryfarms to search for Australian
Bustards. We did see a few, but they weren’t well positioned to have their
photos taken.
From there it was on to Lakeland for a comfort stop, then through
Laura and beyond. The bitumen extends all the way to Laura, and from there several stretches of about 10 kilometres each break up the gravel road. The turn to Artemis
is past Hann River Roadhouse and about 10km beyond Morehead River. From the
turn off it’s only a short drive to the station.
Mick had called a week before to arrange camping for a few
nights and had indicated his desire to see and photograph the Golden-Shouldered
Parrots that are resident in this area. We have visited about 5 year ago,
but Mick wanted to try for some better shots. We made it into camp quite late
for us, so by the time we had set up and settled in it was time for dinner and
a quiet night after a very long day.
Mick rose early the next morning to go down to the feeding
station where he spent a few hours, with limited success. Later in the morning
we chatted with some of the station staff (also family members) who told us
about a spot on the property where the birds are often found in the afternoon.We decided on a walk to check it out – and
the fill in the time – and were very surprised to spot some parrots exactly
where we were told they would be. Mick managed to get a few photos – not the
perfect shot yet – but a good start with another spot to try.
We’d also been told about a nice place for a picnic – about
10km along the Dixie Road. The only concrete causeway is easy to get to if you watch out for the wash-outs along the way. There had obviously been a good
wet season and many of the small gullies still have water running through them
too. The creek at the causeway was still running and with lots of shade, made a
perfect spot for lunch. The water wasn’t deep enough for a swim, but we did sit
in it for a paddle, just because we could.
Mick spent the late afternoon down at the bird feeder, but
again wasn’t really happy with the shots he took.
On Saturday, Mick again rose early to get down to the feeder
while I spent the morning pottering around at our camp. He also drove down to
the spot we had walked to the day before. Another session at the bird feeder
finished the photography for the day. The sky was cloudy on and off throughout
the day, which made getting the perfect shot difficult. During the day the
campground had started to fill up and we were joined by a tour group who
arrived just on dusk.
One Sunday morning Mick finally managed the shot he was after – a
male Golden-shouldered parrot, clear and crisp. Happy with his success he went
to download the photos only to find his laptop battery was completely flat.
Looks like our next few days will be on a powered site in Cooktown – which we were
planning on anyway.
To help pass the time we decided to drive the 23km north to
have lunch at Musgrave Station Roadhouse. The place was busy with a few campers
already settled in to the grassy campground, the fuel pumps in constant use and
many people having burgers, pies or sandwiches for lunch from the shop. The
chicken burgers we had were tasty and even included fresh salad – something you
don’t always get when travelling in remote areas. We spent the afternoon
considering our options for the next few days – the water tank was low so
Cooktown became a definite for the next few nights, then probably Elim Beach,
and Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park if it was opened on 1 June, as planned.
Mick finished off our visit to Artemis with a short
afternoon session and an even shorter morning session at the bird feeder. We
packed up efficiently as always and were on our way just after 8:30am. Our
first stop was at Laura and then Lakeland for coffee.
We took our time packing up to
leave Busselton as we were only going as far as Margaret River. We headed out
through Dunsborough and then south on Caves Road. Along the way we stopped to
have a look at Yallingup – one of many popular surfing spots in the Margaret
River region.
Yallingup
Yallingup. A long paddle out the break.
Yallingup beach
Further south we found a very nice caravan park in a bush
setting at Gracetown, not far from Margaret River township. We decided on two nights to
allow time to do some exploring and visit some of the many food and wine merchants
for which the area is famous.
Some of the local wildlife frequented the caravan park
After settling in we drove down
to the beach at Cowaramup Bay, just down the road. This is another popular
surfing spot. We then drove over to the town of Cowaramup and visited a few of
the shops selling local produce.
Cowaramup Bay
Cowaramup Bay
In the morning we set off to
explore Margaret River township, but first we drove down to the Margaret River
mouth. Yet another popular surfing spot on this beautiful part of the coast – heed the warnings though - there are dangers out there! On into town and we spent a lazy morning walking
up and down the main street poking our heads into interesting shops and galleries.
From there we returned home for lunch, then set off again. This time we were
really on a mission – to return to Cowaramup to buy fudge and pasta sauce, to
visit the Margaret River Dairy Company to buy cheese, to the Providore for more
gourmet treats and finally to a winery to taste some local wine. Of course I
had to purchase some. That’s Christmas sorted.
We didn't go for a swim.
Margaret River mouth.
MadFish winery.
Sculpture and vines.
Some of the goodies we found in the area.
Back home and we enjoyed the
company of neighbours around the campfire for the second night. It’s a real
bonus when you meet nice people when travelling. Sharing stories and
recommendations of places to visit makes for many friendly chats.
With the weather forecast
suggesting there might be rain, we decided to risk it to go to a national park
for a couple of nights. Again, because we didn’t have far to travel, we took
our time setting off.
Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park
– Boranup Forest – Jarrahdene Campground
31 October – 2 November 2018
We headed south again and stopped
for a coffee before making our way to Jarrahdene Campground – one of the newer
campgrounds in the national park. You do need to book, but we knew there was
mobile service so we took the chance and drove in to have a look. I had looked
online earlier in the morning and could see there were plenty of spots
available, and it was only 11:00am so we drove around the campground until we
found a campsite we liked and booked it online on the spot. Only $11 per person
per night with a fire ring and picnic tables at most sites, as well as toilets and
camp kitchens scattered around, it was great value.
Red-winged Fairywren young male.
Red-winged Fairywren female.
Red-winged Fairywren male.
Scarlet Robin male
Scarlet Robin male
White-browed Scrubwren
A great place for camping and birds. A family of Red-winged Fairywrens greeted us as we set up the camper trailer. As usual, the male was very reluctant to be photographed while the females were more obliging. Both Baudin's and the forest race of Red-tailed Black-cockatoo were about, mostly in the afternoons. I didn't get any shots as they were well up in the tall trees. I saw my first White-breasted Robin. One of the highlights of the trip! Mick.
It was fun to look for ground orchids on the walks.
Ground orchid
Not sure if this is an orchid but worth a shot.
The weather wasn’t great, and we
did have a couple of showers come over in the night, but we still enjoyed a
relaxing couple of days. There is a walking track that takes you around the old
mill site, but it looks like it is still a work in progress. Some
interpretative information is available, but we suspected that there will be
more to come, and that path markers will be put in place to make it easier to
follow. It was approximately 1.5km and an easy ½ hour with plenty of stops.
Our neighbours from Gracetown
were camped nearby so we joined them around the fire each evening. The days
were cool and the nights cold, but sitting by a campfire before bed certainly helped.
Once again we had a leisurely
start for a short drive with a probable destination of Augusta, but keeping our
options open as we kept an eye on the weather.
Augusta
2 – 3 November 2018
We set off further south with our
first stop Hamelin Bay, famous for the stingrays that come in close to shore. We chanced a walk on the beach even though the sky was very grey, but we didn’t
see any stingrays. On our way back to the car a couple coming towards us
disturbed some birds – Rock parrots. Mick had these on his list of “I really
want to see” birds so he was very excited. Unfortunately he had his landscape
camera with him so he had to race back to the car to get his other one.
Meanwhile I had to keep an eye on them. They took flight and when they finally
landed I saw that in addition to the three we had seen first, there was another
6 feeding on the grass outside the caravan park. Mick made it back in time to
take lots of photos of them.
Wild daisies on the walk to the beach.
A pretty beach but no stingrays.
A picture postcard bay but not such good weather.
Overseas visitors take photos of the Rock Parrots after we pointed them out.
Rock Parrot. Not a spectacular bird but one I've been hoping to see for a long time.
Rock Parrot
By the time he had taken enough
photos it was lunch time so we drove into Augusta for lunch at the pub. Good
meal, great view, friendly service. From there we made the obligatory visit to
Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse – the tallest lighthouse in WA and the third tallest in
Australia. Run by a not for profit organisation (like Cape Naturaliste) the
entry fee is $6. You can take a guided tour for an additional cost – we didn’t.
Another new bird; Baudin's Black-cockatoo.
We've now been to three of the mainland extremities
I saw Rock Parrots on the walk to the lighthouse.
Nice views but a dull day.
After spending some time at the
lighthouse we decided to stay in Augusta so made our way to a small caravan
park, again in a bush setting. After a couple of nights in the national park,
we really needed the facilities offered in a caravan park. Sitting around a
campfire, chatting to the owners and fellow travellers made for a pleasant
evening.
In the morning we headed into
town – we discovered the Lions Shed as well as a shop selling vinyl records.
Mick spent quite a while talking to the owner about music. After a visit to the
Visitor Information Centre we set off again with Walpole our next destination.
We left Wauchope and continued
north on the Stuart Highway, stopping for a quick look at markets at Tennant
Creek. We finally turned in the direction of home just south of Threeways. From here the
Barkly Highway heads roughly east towards the Queensland border. We stopped for
a cuppa at the 41 Mile Bore Rest Area. Mick was hopeful that there would be
some birdlife as there was water in the dam, but just as he was getting ready
to go for a walk, along came a truck to spoil his fun.
We continued on to Barkly
Roadhouse where we considered staying, but it wasn’t quite lunch time so
pressed on and found a reasonable spot at Wonarah Bore for a lunch stop. It was very hot and
there were millions of flies so we had to eat our sandwiches in the car. Lucky we
had made them before we left Wauchope.
We eventually crossed the border
into Queensland, adjusted our watches and made our next stop at
Camooweal. Again we chose the caravan park behind the pub. This one was quite
well organised with mostly big drive through sites. This is the sort of place
where most people just pull in for an overnighter like we did.
It was still fairly early so we went
for a short walk before going into the pub for a coffee and cold drink. The
surroundings were pleasant and the coffee surprisingly good. Mick made
inquiries about a location mentioned in the information sheet given to us when
we checked in. Lake Francis is a billabong on the Georgina River, just on the
edge of town and reported to be a good birdwatching spot.
Yellow-billed Spoonbills feeding at Lake Francis
Male Orange Chat.
In the morning we packed up and
drove back over the bridge to Lake Francis. This is a very popular free camping
spot and there were a few caravans and campervans scattered around. There is
heaps of room and the best spots would be those further down the dirt track to
the water’s edge. Mick spent a while photographing birds before we set off
again, heading towards Mount Isa.
We made it back into Alice
Springs and checked into a different caravan park – one a bit out of town this
time. We had decided on just two nights to allow us to visit another birding “hot spot” before heading home. We then headed into town to treat ourselves to lunch in a pub – after the drive out of Palm Valley, we
figured we had earned it.
The park owner told me about a Western Bowerbird bower in the park. Unfortunately it was under a pine tree that had thick low foliage all around the base. Only a glimpse of the bird tending its bower and decorations of green berries could be had. Still very special to watch though. Mick
A peek at the Western Bowerbird.
We set off for Kunoth Bore early
in the morning with some snacks and lots of optimism. Kunoth Bore is on the
Tanami Road about 60 kilometres from Alice Springs. We found the spot and spent
a couple of hours there, but without much luck. At least now we can say we have driven the Tanami Track - even if it was only for a short distance and all on bitumen.
Kunoth Bore is supposed to be a good spot to find Grey Honeyeaters and other mulga species. We dipped on Grey Honeyeater and didn't see much else either. The bore dam was dry and this was probably a big factor. There were a few Red-capped Robins and raptors around as well as the ubiquitous Zebra Finch and Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters. Mick
Red-capped Robin.
A Whistling Kite with prey at Kunoth Bore.
We returned to camp and pottered
around for the afternoon when we spotted some familiar faces. We had met Ron
and Kathy up on Cape York in July 2016, and had enjoyed a few drinks and friendly
chat in a couple of campgrounds. We ran into them again in Tasmania in January
2017 when we spotted their distinctive rig outside a pub on the way from
Launceston to Deloraine. We were astounded to meet them again in Alice Springs.
Again we shared travellers’ tales over a few drinks. We wondered where we would
meet again, but this time we did exchange contact details so we should know if ever they are close by again. Over wine and cheese we decided to stay one more night and return to the Alice Springs Desert Park.
A Male Cerested Bellbird seen on the way in.
The flowers were even better this time.
A Caper White butterfly.
Wedge-tailed Eagle at the bird show.
Barn Owl at the bird show.
Southern Boobook at the bird show.
Long-nosed Dragon
A group of Splendid Fairywrens hang around the cafe. This is a male, molting into his stunning breeding plumage.
Making an
early start, we noticed there were a number of tours and school groups there
this time. There were also many more flowers in bloom. At our friends' suggestion we joined a number of the talks and displays that are staged
throughout the day. The Free-Flying Bird show showcases birds of prey and
others. We actually went to this one twice. We also went along to Aboriginal Survival in the Desert which focused on bush medicine as well Dine In, Takeaway or Home Delivered, which involved a tour through some of
the exhibits in the nocturnal house to learn how desert animals thrive and survive. We spent the whole day at the park, and
decided it was a perfect way to end our final day in Alice Springs. Drinks and
chat with Ron and Kathy rounded out a great day.
A one chance in a million meeting with Ron and Kathy.
We set off in the morning on our journey that would eventually take us home.
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