Meningie

 5 - 7 December 2021

After 5 nights at Hahndorf, and having both the car and camper trailer in to repairers we were ready to start making our way towards the Victorian border. We chose Meningie as our next stop and managed to book site in the caravan park, right on the lake. We'd stayed there before and it's a nice town, on beautiful  Lake Albert. 

We left Hahndorf and made one last stop at Laratinga Wetlands. Mick was rewarded with some shots of a blue-billed duck. From Mount Barker we drove on towards Langhorne Creek on the Fleurieu Peninsula. This is just one of South Australia's many wine regions. From there we made our way to Wellington, where we crossed the Murray River on a ferry again.

We arrived in Meningie, on the northern edge of the Coorong, just on lunch time so stopped at the park in town to have a picnic lunch and a walk. We were surprised at just how many people were doing the same thing. It was a beautiul day, but quite windy. After lunch we drove on the caravan park and set up on the lake's edge site that had been allocated for us. It is such a lovely place to sit and watch the lake and it's resident birdlife. 

We had a  quiet couple of days in Meningie but did get down to the bird hide just near the school. Unfortunately we had timed our arrival to coincide with a school activity! We left them to it, and headed up to the lookout. 

Our next, and final nights, in South Australia would be Mount Gambier so we decided to stop in Robe on our way there.

Hahndorf

 30 November - 5 December 2021

We set off from Gluepot, carefully negotiating the mud and damaged sections of road. We had hoped to spend a few more days there but a problem with the camper trailer, which would require a repair meant we had to make our way towards Adelaide. We crossed the River Murray back into Waikerie and then headed for Blanchetown where we stopped for a picnic lunch.

While we were at Waikerie we tried to book in to the caravan park at Mount Barker. Unfortunately they were only taking bookings from fully self contained travellers so we had to look elsewhere. We were able to book a site for a couple of nights at Hahndorf which is close enough to Mount Barker to allow easy visits to Laratinga Wetlands.

From Blanchetown we followed the river until we crossed again at Walker Flat - again on a ferry. From  there it was on through Mannum and on to Murray Bridge. At Murray Bridge we pulled into a car wash to remove the vast quantities of sticky mud from Gluepot that had adhered to every lower surface on the car and camper trailer, and the dust covering the rest.

We checked in at Hahndorf with plenty of time to make an afternoon visit to Laratinga Wetlands. Laratinga has become a favourite when we are in the Adelaide Hills area and we have visited a few times. This time the water level was much higher than previously and the bird life wasn't as good as Mick had expected but he did meet a fellow birder who told him about anothe spot - Cox Scrub - that would be worth visiting.

We decided that a morning visit to Cox Scrub would be in order so we set off quite early and found our way there. Chris provided very explicit directions and we were able to find the right spot - two small puddles of water on the walking track that attracted a number of birds. Mick sat happily with the tripod for some time. It was a lovely spot but quite cold, with the early morning mist still low on the hills. There are no facilities at Cox Scrub, but there are a number of well marked walking tracks.

When we returned home we contacted a repairer to enquire about having the zip replaced on the Cub and they were able to fit us in straight away. This led to a mad dash to cancel our campsite and find a cabin for the rest of the week. Fortunately they were able to meet our needs where we were at Hahndorf so we unpacked the trailer and moved all our gear into a cabin, before driving in to the repairer in Adelaide. We would have some luxury for the next 4 nights.

We also had the car booked in to have some work done so that was another trip in to Adelaide as well. While we were staying at Hahndorf we revisited Cox Scrub a couple of more times and generally stayed out of the way of the "touristy" spots. We didn't want to compromise our ability to enter Tasmania without quarantine by being caught in a "hot spot". We collected the trailer on Saturday and left Hahndorf on Sunday morning. We had decided Meningie would be a good place for a couple of days as we worked out way towards the Victorian border.

Gluepot Reserve

 27 - 30 November 2021

We set off for Gluepot knowing we could stay up to 5 days if we wanted to, but aiming for 3 or 4. The weather had cleared and we were expecting a few warm days, with over 30 by mid-week. Shortly after the turn-off we started to see the effects of some very heavy rain over the last few days. Gluepot rarely receives much rain, but this had not been the case in the previous weeks, with over 60mm recorded. The road in traverses private property and there were a number of very large puddles which had to be negotiated carefully around. Further on there was a stretch where the road had been washed away requiring some precision driving.

There was more very large puddles once we reached Gluepot itself. We tried to drive around each one so as not to further damage the road. We stopped at Emu Hide on the way in and chatted with some fellow birders. On arrival at the visitor centre we signed in and met the ranger. After a quick chat, and after paying our modest camping fees we made our way to Babbler Campground. Each of the three campgrounds are well set up with toilets and some picnic tables. Fires are definitely not allowed on the property. We chose a spot with its own picnic table and settled in.

Late in the afternoon we made our way to Whistler Tank Hide at the suggestion of the ranger who indicated that the Regent Parrots may be found there. It was a short drive from Babbler Campground, then a 2.5km walk. Afternoon probably wasn't the best time to be there but it was a good walk anyway and allowed MIck to work out when he should be heading off in the morning.

Up at 5:00am, Mick set off for Whistler Hide while I enjoyed a quiet morning at camp. He was rewarded with lots of photos of the parrots was well as other species. He repeated the effort the following morning and was similarly rewarded. In the afternoon we took a drive around to some of the other hides - carefully avoiding the worst of the wet roads.

On our final morning we ventured across the road to the Babbler Walk (South). Not far in, Mick found a very birdy spot so he stayed there while I continued on the 2.7km walk. I had been using a hiking app on my phone and discovered that it was actually 3.3km. It was well marked and easy though. Once we were both back at camp we packed up and departed the campground.

We stopped at the visitor centre to check out and the ranger advised us that they had actually closed the reserve again the previous day as a result of the state of the road in. Although we had not experienced too much difficulty getting through they were concerned about potential visitors in 2WD vehicles. We were indeed fortunate to get in when we did.

We set off back to Waikerie and then on towards Mount Barker and another favourite birding spot.

Red Banks Conservation Park

 21 - 22 November 2021

We left Port Broughton and headed inland towards Burra to Red Banks Conservation Park. We wanted to get to Gluepot Reserve but rain had closed the roads there for a couple of days so we decided to try camping at Red Banks, near Burra. We had visited the day use area and it looked like it would be a great overnight spot.

On the way we stopped at Crystal Brook for a stretch and then Burra for lunch. We had a walk around the town and visited the local art gallery after our picnic by the creek. From there we set off for Red Banks.

When we arrived we were the only ones in the campground so had the pick of the spots. We drove right around and chose a drive through spot with a view of the mallee and the banks a short distance away. We were pleasantly surprised just how warm the day had become but were prepared for another very cold night. There was little to no wind which was also a nice change. During the afternoon one other camper trailer arrived and set up on the other side of the campground. The binoculars gave it away - a fellow birder.

In the morning Mick was up just on sunrise and out in the mallee with the camera, while I slept in. We had a leisurely breakfast and decided to stay until after morning tea. We then headed over to the day use area for another look around and ran into the neighbour. Of course there was an in-depth conversation about where to find which birds.

We had checked the weather and decided we would wait out the rainy days to come in Waikerie, so we headed for the caravan park which is on the River Murray.

Cunnamulla - Charlotte Plains

 25 - 28 October 2021

We went for a walk on the property before leaving Charleville, bound for Cunnamulla. We usually stay at Bowra Bird Sanctuary but it had closed for the season so we decided to give Charlotte Plains a try. Mick had spoken to some fellow bird photographers who recommended the Bore Camp so we booked 2 nights.

On our way south from Charleville we noticed a warning light had come on indicating a problem with the car's timing belt. Given that this particular item had (or should have) been replaced at the 150,000km service only 1000km ago, we were a little concerned. Once we arrived in Cunnamulla we headed to the local RACQ agent who, although unable to reset the warning, was able to reassure us that is was just a reminder that should have been reset at the service.

Happy that all was well with the car, we drove back to the park near the visitor centre for a picnic lunch. A quick look in the Visitor Information Centre and we were armed with some information about possible places to stay on our way west, we then headed east towards St George, before turning off for Charlotte Plains Station.

We made our way to the homestead where we checked in and chatted to owner Robyn, before driving back the way we had come to the Bore Head Camp ground. This open area is situated along the bore drain, with some shady trees, flushing toilets, hot showers and baths for soaking in the artesian water. Although rustic and basic, the amenities were clean and there was plenty of room to find a good spot in the campground.

Of course Mick spent much of the time trying to photograph the abundant birdlife. Fortunately the weather had improved and it was not as hot as the previous few days. A cool breeze contributed to a very pleasant afternoon.

The temperature dropped considerably overnight and the cool breeze made for a beautiful morning. We decided to sample the delights of an artesian bath mid-morning. Lying in the warm water watching and listening to the birds was a perfect way to relax.

We spent the rest of the day chasing the shade and doing what we enjoy - reading for me and photographing birds for Mick. There were other friendly birders here so lots of opportunity to compare notes. During the afternoon we decided on an extra night, giving us three here. We knew the forecast was for another really hot day after a couple of milder ones, but it would be the same no matter where we stayed.

A bird, the bush and a bore drain - how much better can it get?

Tuesday night wasn't as cool as Monday had been, but the temperature did still drop during the might. On Wednesday morning, Mick rose early to go down to a now favourite spot, and once again we luxuriated in a bore bath before smoko. The temperature continued to work it's way towards 40° and we really struggled in the heat. We found a bore bath in the shade during the afternoon. Filling it while the water was still relatively cool made it a pleasant soak and a relief from the heat.

The temperature kept rising through the afternoon making it very difficult to do anything except follow the shade. After dinner, when the bugs were out in force we soaked in a tub and marvelled at the stars and satellites above us. Thursday morning was shaping up to be another hot one, and with no internet access we were unable to check the forecast. We packed up in a leisurely fashion and made our way into Cunnamulla. We filled a gas bottle and then headed to the bakery cafe where we checked our messages and the all important weather forecast.

As much as we would have liked to visit a few camping spots as we made our way towards Thargomindah, the promise of 40 degrees and thunderstorms had us making the decision that it would be another cabin night.

Flat Creek Station

 5 – 7 June 2021

We had made contact with the owners/managers of Flat Creek Station via Facebook Messenger and had received directions to get there. They had also alerted us that there might not be anyone at the homestead when we arrived. We set off from Cumberland Dam, and drove back through Georgetown, taking the Forsayth turn-off. From there it was on to the road to Western Creek Station, and Flat Creek Station. Flat Creek is about 26km along a gravel road, that was is quite good condition when we travelled.

Arriving at Flat Creek Station we made our way to the homestead and completed the self-check in. From there we drove down to the campground. Arriving at the campground, I was a bit underwhelmed. It was more bush camp than campground, with no clear definition to camping sites or even areas, and little level ground. Signs at the small amenities block indicated that campers are responsible for maintaining and cleaning the toilets and showers, are to provide their own toilet paper, and are also required to light the donkey boiler for hot water. This includes collecting firewood as none is supplied. This is quite different to other stations we have stayed at, and which I found quite surprising.

There were two spots occupied and so we went for a walk and chose a spot that looked OK. We settled in and Mick discovered a dripping water tap not far away – but closer to another possible campsite. Of course, he spent the rest of the day up there. We decided that in the morning we would shift to the other spot closer to the dripping tap so Mick could keep an eye on it throughout the day.

The next morning, after Mick had spent an hour or so up at the tap, we packed up and shifted camp. That would have to be out all-time record for shortest distance travelled between camps – probably no more than 50 metres! Set up in our new spot, we had morning tea and then took a drive along station tracks to where a fellow camper had told us we would find a bird feeder. We did find it – just over 1 km away – but it was the wrong time of day to get good photos. At least we knew where to come back to later. Back to camp and Mick continued to stake out the dripping tap throughout the afternoon.

We did not see the owners/managers the whole time we were there so were not able to ask about other birdwatching spots, something we found to be very disappointing given that was the reason for our visit which I had indicated in my initial message regarding camping. We decided to stay only 2 nights, leaving late so Mick could spend the last morning at the water tap.

Flat Creek Station wasn’t what we expected but it did turn out to be a nice place to stay. On the way back to Georgetown we stopped in at a nearby campground for a look, but it wasn’t really what we wanted. We had lunch in a park in Georgetown and decided to head for home and just go as far as we could.

 

 

Pinnarendi Station

 4 – 5 June 2021

The drive from Innot Hot Springs was only about 100km so we arrived around morning tea time. As well as camping, Pinnarendi Station also has a café so we ordered coffee while organising a campsite for the night. The campground is very well set up with powered and unpowered sites, a clean and tidy amenities block and access to laundry facilities. The site we were allocated was perfect - right on the end of a row with a great view out to the bush, but not too far from the amenities.

We don’t usually look for station stays, but this would have to be one of the best. Well marked walking tracks lead to three dams – Garden Dam, Big Dam and Number 1 Dam. Because we had a powered site, Mick was able to catch up on some photo editing while I spent another relaxing afternoon with a good book. There was a book exchange in the laundry (as there often is in caravan parks) so I was able to swap one I had finished a few days before, for one by a favourite author.

In the late afternoon we went for a walk and visited each of the dams. Number 1 Dam is supposed to be the best for birds but there wasn’t much action at the time we were there. It was a very nice, easy walk anyway.

Pinnarendi Station is a working cattle station that is a fabulous blend of station stay and caravan park – all the amenities you would expect, with access to bush right there. We will most probably be back some time for a longer stay.

In the morning we decided to try for Flat Creek Station out of Georgetown. We stopped at Mount Surprise for coffee then drove through Georgetown to Cumberland Dam for lunch. This is a lovely free (donations welcome) camp spot that is popular with bird watchers and caravanners alike. After lunch by the dam we headed off for Flat Creek Station – another spot that promised good bird watching.

Cooktown

 31 May – 2 June 2021

From Lakeland we turned off the Peninsula Development Road and back onto the Mulligan Highway on the way to Cooktown. Not wanting to arrive right on lunch time we stopped at boat ramp on the Annan River for a slightly early picnic lunch, then on into Cooktown to find a caravan park. We hadn’t booked and were surprised to find there were no vacancies at our first choice. We drove on to our second choice, where we had stayed before a couple of times, and secured the last available powered site for two days. The tourism industry is supposed to be doing it tough, but this was not evidence of that.

We spent the afternoon considering our options for Rinyurri Lakefield National Park, only to find there were no campsites available until the end of the following week – the park was only opening on 1 June following a big wet season and was already filling up fast. We didn’t have the luxury of unlimited time so had to scratch that from the list. We also considered a couple pf days at the highly rated Elim Beach but had to abandon that idea when we realised we could not comply with the alcohol restrictions. As we were to be on the road for a number of weeks, we were carrying extra beer and cask wine. Cask wine is not permitted, and only one carton of beer is allowed. We’d have to save that for another time too.

In the afternoon we drove into town, and walked along the waterfront (Endeavour River). Spotting a family of kingfishers was a pleasant surprise so Mick spent some time trying to get some photos of them. There is a well-stocked independent supermarket so we bought some supplies before returning to the caravan park.

In the morning we headed out to Mulbabidgee Keatings Lagoon – another favourite spot. More disappointment when we saw the locked gate and the sign saying the walk, which includes the bird hide and picnic area, was closed due to flooding. We were able to walk along the fenceline adjacent to the road and get a good look at the lagoon which was teeming with birds up in the trees, but not much on the water. The waterbirds come to Mulbabidgee when the other waterholes dry up, which hadn’t happened yet.

Sheltering from a passing shower, we were in the car when the Ranger arrived – to check and open the track! Great timing, we were the first into the conservation area and spent a short time at the bird hide, before heading back into town. On the way we took a short detour to Quarantine Bay – a very pretty spot – before returning home for coffee.

Washing done and hung out, the clouds had moved on so we set off for the Cooktown Botanical Gardens. This is a beautiful spot, developed in an area that was once used by Chinese market gardeners, in the late 1800’s. At this time of year it was lush and green, and was a hive of activity as staff watered and spread mulch. We returned home for lunch and to catch up on some housekeeping, before returning to the waterfront to revisit the kingfishers – always chasing that perfect shot.

In the morning we packed up the trailer and left it on the caravan park site while we went in to town to get fuel and have one last look for the kingfishers – and yes, they were there again. After a short session with the camera we went back and hitched up the trailer, then drove back into town for coffee and a quick look around. Our next destination, Lion’s Den Hotel at Rossville, was only a short drive away.

 

Artemis Station

 27 – 31 May 2021

We left Lake Eacham and drove back through Atherton and Mareeba before continuing on to Mount Molloy where we stopped for a picnic lunch. Rifle Creek is a very popular free camp just north of Mount Molloy, and has a few picnic tables, as well as toilets. From there we drove on towards Mount Carbine, but took a short detour at Maryfarms to search for Australian Bustards. We did see a few, but they weren’t well positioned to have their photos taken.

From there it was on to Lakeland for a comfort stop, then through Laura and beyond. The bitumen extends all the way to Laura, and from there several stretches of about 10 kilometres each break up the gravel road. The turn to Artemis is past Hann River Roadhouse and about 10km beyond Morehead River. From the turn off it’s only a short drive to the station.

Mick had called a week before to arrange camping for a few nights and had indicated his desire to see and photograph the Golden-Shouldered Parrots that are resident in this area. We have visited about 5 year ago, but Mick wanted to try for some better shots. We made it into camp quite late for us, so by the time we had set up and settled in it was time for dinner and a quiet night after a very long day.

Mick rose early the next morning to go down to the feeding station where he spent a few hours, with limited success. Later in the morning we chatted with some of the station staff (also family members) who told us about a spot on the property where the birds are often found in the afternoon.  We decided on a walk to check it out – and the fill in the time – and were very surprised to spot some parrots exactly where we were told they would be. Mick managed to get a few photos – not the perfect shot yet – but a good start with another spot to try.

We’d also been told about a nice place for a picnic – about 10km along the Dixie Road. The only concrete causeway is easy to get to if you watch out for the wash-outs along the way. There had obviously been a good wet season and many of the small gullies still have water running through them too. The creek at the causeway was still running and with lots of shade, made a perfect spot for lunch. The water wasn’t deep enough for a swim, but we did sit in it for a paddle, just because we could.

Mick spent the late afternoon down at the bird feeder, but again wasn’t really happy with the shots he took.

On Saturday, Mick again rose early to get down to the feeder while I spent the morning pottering around at our camp. He also drove down to the spot we had walked to the day before. Another session at the bird feeder finished the photography for the day. The sky was cloudy on and off throughout the day, which made getting the perfect shot difficult. During the day the campground had started to fill up and we were joined by a tour group who arrived just on dusk.

One Sunday morning Mick finally managed the shot he was after – a male Golden-shouldered parrot, clear and crisp. Happy with his success he went to download the photos only to find his laptop battery was completely flat. Looks like our next few days will be on a powered site in Cooktown – which we were planning on anyway.

To help pass the time we decided to drive the 23km north to have lunch at Musgrave Station Roadhouse. The place was busy with a few campers already settled in to the grassy campground, the fuel pumps in constant use and many people having burgers, pies or sandwiches for lunch from the shop. The chicken burgers we had were tasty and even included fresh salad – something you don’t always get when travelling in remote areas. We spent the afternoon considering our options for the next few days – the water tank was low so Cooktown became a definite for the next few nights, then probably Elim Beach, and Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park if it was opened on 1 June, as planned.

Mick finished off our visit to Artemis with a short afternoon session and an even shorter morning session at the bird feeder. We packed up efficiently as always and were on our way just after 8:30am. Our first stop was at Laura and then Lakeland for coffee.

Lake Mungo Adventure - The Prelude - Townsville to Cobar

Kooroorinya Falls Nature Reserve

28 - 29 September 2019

Another adventure awaits. Talking with my sister one day, she told me of her plans for a trip to Lake Mungo in far western New South Wales. As this was a destination Mick and I had discussed a number of times, we invited ourselves to tag along. Fortunately this was perfectly fine with Bronwyn and John, as well as their other travelling companions, Michael and Tanya. And so the planning began. The timing was good for us – we would be back from a quick trip to see the kids in Tassie, with plenty of time to spare to get organised and packed. We would also have time to get back home before the weather became too hot to camp in Queensland.

Itineraries were drawn up and a meeting date was set. We decided on a week to get to our meeting point of Cobar, and then a couple of weeks as part of the group tour, then a few weeks to get home again. We wanted to revisit some favourite places as well as travel some new roads so we chose Kooroorinya Falls Nature Reserve for our first night away from home.

We set off on Saturday morning and drove through Charters Towers towards Prairie. We stopped for lunch at one of the Burra Range rest stops – the one near the entrance to White Mountain National Park has become a favourite. Turning off at Prairie, we continued on to Kooroorinya. The campground is on an old property where picnic races are still held annually. It is well set up with hot showers but no powered sites. The resident caretakers welcomed us and helped us choose a shady site for the night.

No falls when we were there but it would be great to see when the water is flowing.

Upstream. It was a short, pleasant stroll to the creek.

Downstream of Little Bondi Falls.

 Unfortunately there wasn’t much water in the creek so the falls weren’t flowing but there were still a few birds around having a drink. Our first problem for the trip (there are always a few) occurred shortly after our arrival when we discovered a gas leak. One of the gas bottle hoses had a hole in it. We had checked most things on the camper trailer, and had it serviced prior to our departure, but we hadn’t thought to check that. No gas meant no cooking so we were glad we had brought a piece of home cooked corned beef and some salad with us. We were also able to access a power point to make a cuppa so all was not lost, but it did mean we would have to move on in the morning.

Young Pale-headed Rosella waiting to drink from a leaking tap in the yards.

It was a quiet night, in a peaceful setting, then back on the road. We decided that we would have to stay in a town where we could get dinner at a pub and then hope we could replace the gas hose on Monday morning.

A bustard melts away into the long grass as we drive out in the morning.

Tambo

29 - 30 August 2019

We left Kooroorinya and drove to Muttaburra where we stopped for coffee. From there we it was on to Aramac where we stopped for lunch. There is a very small park adjacent to the council caravan park which has a covered picnic table and access to toilets.

In the middle of the day we stopped to photograph Australian Pratincoles but the light was harsh and they were very hard to approach.

We drove on down the Landsborough Highway and toyed with the idea of stopping in Barcaldine, but it was very hot so we decided to keep going. A check of Wikicamps showed that there was a caravan park in Tambo with a swimming pool, and a pub just across the road. We were sold!

We arrived during the rush hour, just behind a big group of caravanners – maybe everyone was looking to cool off with a dip in the pool. We were allocated a site and were set up in now time – the pool was very inviting and beautifully cool. We ventured over the road for a meal at the pub and settled in for quiet night. We weren’t expecting to have the gentle sounds of cattle lowing nearby throughout the night – a bit different to the constant barking of neighbourhood dogs we are used to at home, and much more relaxing.

Another Pale-headed Rosella in the caravan park.

We didn’t hang around long in the morning and set off for somewhere big enough to have a shop that would sell the required gas hose – maybe Charleville.

Cunnamulla

30 September – 1 October 2019

We left Tambo and continued along the Landsborough Highway through Augathella and on to the Mitchell Highway into Charleville. We have visited Charleville a couple of times so we knew where the best parking for us would be. We found a spot for the car and camper trailer and headed off in search of a new gas hose. It only took a few minutes to find the shop we needed – and with the assistance of the friendly and efficient staff member, the hose was replaced and we were back in business. Thanks Outback Spares - awesome service!

As it was still early (not even lunch time) we retired to a café for a coffee and to consider our next move. We decided it was too early in the day to stop but we were 2 days ahead of our scheduled stay at Bowra Bird Sanctuary. We called them to arrange to come in a day early. After lunch and a walk in the lovely Bicentennial Park on the outskirts of Charleville, we set off again with the idea of staying in a caravan park in Cunnamulla before heading in to Bowra in the morning.

We settled on the caravan park on the Warrego River and were pleasantly surprised to see there was some water in the river, which made it a very nice spot to spend the afternoon. Without far to go in the morning we had a leisurely pack up and went into town to pick up some supplies and have a coffee before heading to Bowra.

Female Black Honeyeater.

Bowra

1 – 4 October 2019

Bowra Wildlife Sanctuary is only about 20km out of Cunnamulla so we were there well before lunch time. It is run by volunteers on behalf of Australian Wildlife Conservancy. Visitors must call ahead and check in with the resident wardens. This was our third visit to Bowra, and as usual the current wardens were friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. We spent some time chatting with them before making our way to find a camp spot by the billabong. Most visitors are interested in birds, if not mad keen birdos, so there is always plenty of opportunity to compare notes.

At this time of year, there weren’t many visitors so we were able to snag the perfect spot with a view of the billabong and some shade. The down side was that this time there was a thick carpet of burrs and spiky vegetation, probably due to good rain early in the season. We did end up spending quite a bit of time pulling spiky things out of shoes, socks, clothing, feet and everything else they came into contact with.

Our view of the lagoon.

Red-kneed Dotterel

Yellow-billed Spoonbill

Major Mitchell's Cockatoo right in front of our camp by the lagoon.

White-browed Woodswallow male

White-browed Woodswallow female. In good numbers and breeding during our visit.

White-ewinged Triller male. These were also in good numbers around the lagoon.

In the nearby homestead dam I found a lone Pink-eared Duck as well as the usual grebes.

Australasian Grebe

On previous visits to Bowra we have spent some time driving the numerous tracks that criss cross the property. This time we spent most of our time by the billabong, with Mick making a couple of early morning excursions up to one of the dams. During the heat of the day we relaxed in the shade and enjoyed the peace and quiet.

This time at Bowra I had decided to concentrate on getting a good shot of Bourke's Parrots. My second priority was getting better shots of Blue Bonnets. Both species had frustrated my efforts in the past. Of course I would remain opportunistic and take advantage of whatever birds were around. Most of all, this time, I just wanted to enjoy being out there. 

On the first day I met Chris, a fellow bird photographer using similar gear to mine. He was much more enthusiastic and energetic than I had planned to be on this trip. Luckily some of his keenness rubbed off and I joined him on a couple of outings to the back dam. From about 6am to 9.30am we sat quietly by the water and shot a variety of birds coming in to drink. Lucky, I wouldn't have got my Bourke's shots if I hadn't joined Chris. Thanks you. Mick

The elusive Bourke's Parrots would appear sporadically, landing at the top of the bank then walking down to drink.

Bourke's Parrot

Bourke's Parrot

Major Mitchell's Cockatoo

Cockatiels took a long time to decide where to drink but eventually some landed in 'the zone'.

Diamond Doves

Mulga parrots

A pair of Galahs

A Spotted Bowerbird looking for a drink.

On our final day the forecast was for temperatures close to 40°C so we were glad to be heading off – but we also knew that we would be facing the heat wherever we ended up. We still had two nights until we had to be in Cobar so we considered our options and headed south towards Bourke.

Bourke

4 – 6 October 2019

We knew it was going to be hot and we watched the temperature rise as we headed south towards the Queensland – New South Wales border. We decided to escape the heat with a pub lunch in Engonnia before making our way to Bourke. With the temperature in the high 30’s and expected to stay there for the next few days, we chose the caravan park with a swimming pool, and checked into a cabin for two nights. You just can’t camp in a camper trailer in that sort of heat – unless you have no other option.

The pool was cool and the air conditioned cabin just what we needed for a couple of days of comparative luxury. We drove the short distance into town on Saturday to restock, refuel and have a look at what remains of the once mighty Darling River. It is hard to image, with the current drought conditions and government mismanagement of this precious resource, that this was once a thriving waterway with river ports along its length. So sad that it has come to this.

Darling River at Bourke.

Further East - Fitzgerald River, Mason Bay, Munglinup Beach

Fitzgerald River National Park - Hammersley Inlet Campground

16 – 18 November 2018

Our next destination was Fitzgerald River National Park. There are several sections and campgrounds but we were headed to the eastern section, requiring a drive back up to the highway and through several towns. We stopped for coffee and shopping at Jerramungup. While there we had a quick look at the Biosphere Gardens. I say quick because it has to be the smallest botanic garden we have ever visited. The weather forecast was for storms and we drove through increasingly heavy rain on the way to Ravensthorpe. By the time we arrived it was raining heavily and there was lightning around so we decided on lunch at a café – it was impossible weather for our customary picnic lunch. Continuing on towards Hopetoun, then turning off to the National Park we saw clearer skies. 

Visitors to Fitzgerald River National Park are required to pay a park entry fee, but we had our Holiday Pass which was still valid so we didn’t need to do this. From the entrance station we drove through forests of banksias and hakeas on the way to Hammersley Inlet. Along the way we passed turnoffs to a number of lookouts, beaches and walks. Arriving at the campground we settled on a site which allowed us to face the camper trailer towards some bush. This campground, although within the national park, is run by Ravensthorpe Council so the fees are lower than national park camp fees at $10 per vehicle per night. Great value for a campground with clean toilets and a barbecue shelter. There is no drinking water so it is important to bring your own.

White-browed Scrubwren. There weren't many birds around the campground.

Western Thornbill

We went for a walk down to the inlet and were a little disappointed with the location of the campground in proximity to the water, as well as the lack of walks and amount of cleared bush. Grey skies didn’t help either. Camping here does allow access to lots of other lovely spots as we found out the next day when we went for a drive.

We knew the forecast for Saturday was for a warmer day, but without internet access we were surprised to wake to a very warm morning. It certainly seemed like the day would be warmer than the low to mid-twenties we were expecting. We decided to go for a drive to some of the beaches. Along the way we hoped to get internet access to check the forecast. The outside temperature gauge in the car showed over thirty degrees and when we finally reached a point with signal, we found the new forecast was for a top of 36°! Quite a change from the weather we had experienced over the previous weeks – high teens to low twenties.

Walking track with a view.

Hakea victoria

Hakea victoria

Hakea victoria

Banksia

A Western Fieldwren seen on one of the lookout walks.

Western Fieldwren

We stopped to have a look at West Beach, Cave Point and East Mount Barren before heading home to rest through the hottest part of the day. Later in the afternoon, we drove back past the park entrance to the bird hide at Culham Inlet, then back to Barrens Beach and Four Mile Beach. We also stopped at the two lookouts which provide views across the inlets and surrounding area. As we have come to expect, the temperature dropped in the evening.

There were huge numbers of waders at the bird hide but they were a very long way off.

A Scrub Python stops traffic while crossing the road

Goanna

Barrens Beach

Sea urchin

A great view of the inlet and Four Mile Campground.

A local skink.

In the morning we chatted with a fellow camper and of course the conversation turned to birds, specifically the ones Mick was chasing. As luck would have it, she told us about Mason Bay campground where she had seen and heard lots of birds, including wattlebirds. Mick played the call for the Western wattlebird, one that he had been trying to find throughout south-west WA. She was absolutely certain that was the one she had heard, so we added Mason Bay as our next stop.

Mason Bay

18 – 20 November 2018

Mason Bay is only a short drive from Hopetoun so we headed there for a coffee and a look around once we had left the national park. We then travelled on the unsealed road to Mason Bay and the council-run campground right on the beach. Being a Sunday, and still quite early (well before lunch time) there we lots of people there but we found a spot in a section where there was no-one else camped. Our spot was very sheltered from the wind, but still only a very short walk to the beach.

As we were setting up, Mick spotted the Western Wattlebird in a tree right by our campsite. What luck! Setting up camp was interrupted while he tried to take photos.

'What are you looking at?' This Tawny Frogmouth was opposite our camp and wasn't happy about the sun waking it up.

Much more serene later in the afternoon.

The afternoon was very warm so Mick put out a dish of water for the birds. It was amazing how many came in for a drink and a bath. We also spotted a Tawny frogmouth in a tree opposite. Mason Bay is a popular fishing spot but we were content to relax and Mick had a ball photographing all the birds.

The camper trailer was useful as a hide here.

At times the bathing birds looked like they were trying for a Guinness Book of Records record.

Silvereye

A long awaited Western Wattlebird.

Grey Fantail

New Holland Honeyeaters holding hands.

We spent two nights there, and once again packed up camp in between showers of rain. After a couple of days of milder temperatures, it was back to cold again. We keep waiting for spring to arrive, even though it was only two weeks until the start of summer.

Back on the road with no firm destination this time, just a plan to look at a couple of places then make up our minds when we'd had a good look around.

Munglinup Beach

20 -21 November

We had a bit of a plan – have a look at Munglinup Beach, then Stokes Inlet then Esperance. We’d stay at the first place we liked the look of. First stop was Munglinup Beach. We drove past the caravan park down to the beach where there is a day use area and a council run camping area. Although it might have been nice camping by the beach, we decided that a night in a caravan park was needed after four nights in campgrounds without showers. It would also allow us to charge up batteries and ride out some more rain in a nice camp kitchen.

This Spotted-thighed Frog made its home in the camp kitchen.

Arriving just after 10:00 am we decided on only one night. With more wind and rain we settled in and made use of the great camp kitchen, chatting to other travellers and even getting to watch TV for a while. All in all, it was a restful day in a nice spot.

Once again there were clouds in the sky and showers around as we packed up to head in to Esperance, or maybe Stokes Inlet.