Sunday, 6 October 2019

Lake Mungo Adventure - The Prelude - Townsville to Cobar




Kooroorinya Falls Nature Reserve
28 - 29 September 2019

Another adventure awaits. Talking with my sister one day, she told me of her plans for a trip to Lake Mungo in far western New South Wales. As this was a destination Mick and I had discussed a number of times, we invited ourselves to tag along. Fortunately this was perfectly fine with Bronwyn and John, as well as their other travelling companions, Michael and Tanya. And so the planning began. The timing was good for us – we would be back from a quick trip to see the kids in Tassie, with plenty of time to spare to get organised and packed. We would also have time to get back home before the weather became too hot to camp in Queensland.

Itineraries were drawn up and a meeting date was set. We decided on a week to get to our meeting point of Cobar, and then a couple of weeks as part of the group tour, then a few weeks to get home again. We wanted to revisit some favourite places as well as travel some new roads so we chose Kooroorinya Falls Nature Reserve for our first night away from home.

We set off on Saturday morning and drove through Charters Towers towards Prairie. We stopped for lunch at one of the Burra Range rest stops – the one near the entrance to White Mountain National Park has become a favourite. Turning off at Prairie, we continued on to Kooroorinya. The campground is on an old property where picnic races are still held annually. It is well set up with hot showers but no powered sites. The resident caretakers welcomed us and helped us choose a shady site for the night.

No falls when we were there but it would be great to see when the water is flowing.

Upstream. It was a short, pleasant stroll to the creek.
Downstream of Little Bondi Falls.
 Unfortunately there wasn’t much water in the creek so the falls weren’t flowing but there were still a few birds around having a drink. Our first problem for the trip (there are always a few) occurred shortly after our arrival when we discovered a gas leak. One of the gas bottle hoses had a hole in it. We had checked most things on the camper trailer, and had it serviced prior to our departure, but we hadn’t thought to check that. No gas meant no cooking so we were glad we had brought a piece of home cooked corned beef and some salad with us. We were also able to access a power point to make a cuppa so all was not lost, but it did mean we would have to move on in the morning.


Young Pale-headed Rosella waiting to drink from a leaking tap in the yards.
It was a quiet night, in a peaceful setting, then back on the road. We decided that we would have to stay in a town where we could get dinner at a pub and then hope we could replace the gas hose on Monday morning.

A bustard melts away into the long grass as we drive out in the morning.


Tambo
29 - 30 August 2019

We left Kooroorinya and drove to Muttaburra where we stopped for coffee. From there we it was on to Aramac where we stopped for lunch. There is a very small park adjacent to the council caravan park which has a covered picnic table and access to toilets.

In the middle of the day we stopped to photograph Australian Pratincoles but the light was harsh and they were very hard to approach.
We drove on down the Landsborough Highway and toyed with the idea of stopping in Barcaldine, but it was very hot so we decided to keep going. A check of Wikicamps showed that there was a caravan park in Tambo with a swimming pool, and a pub just across the road. We were sold!

We arrived during the rush hour, just behind a big group of caravanners – maybe everyone was looking to cool off with a dip in the pool. We were allocated a site and were set up in now time – the pool was very inviting and beautifully cool. We ventured over the road for a meal at the pub and settled in for quiet night. We weren’t expecting to have the gentle sounds of cattle lowing nearby throughout the night – a bit different to the constant barking of neighbourhood dogs we are used to at home, and much more relaxing.


Another Pale-headed Rosella in the caravan park.
We didn’t hang around long in the morning and set off for somewhere big enough to have a shop that would sell the required gas hose – maybe Charleville.


Cunnamulla
30 September – 1 October 2019

We left Tambo and continued along the Landsborough Highway through Augathella and on to the Mitchell Highway into Charleville. We have visited Charleville a couple of times so we knew where the best parking for us would be. We found a spot for the car and camper trailer and headed off in search of a new gas hose. It only took a few minutes to find the shop we needed – and with the assistance of the friendly and efficient staff member, the hose was replaced and we were back in business. Thanks Outback Spares - awesome service!

As it was still early (not even lunch time) we retired to a café for a coffee and to consider our next move. We decided it was too early in the day to stop but we were 2 days ahead of our scheduled stay at Bowra Bird Sanctuary. We called them to arrange to come in a day early. After lunch and a walk in the lovely Bicentennial Park on the outskirts of Charleville, we set off again with the idea of staying in a caravan park in Cunnamulla before heading in to Bowra in the morning.

We settled on the caravan park on the Warrego River and were pleasantly surprised to see there was some water in the river, which made it a very nice spot to spend the afternoon. Without far to go in the morning we had a leisurely pack up and went into town to pick up some supplies and have a coffee before heading to Bowra.

Female Black Honeyeater.


Bowra
1 – 4 October 2019

Bowra Wildlife Sanctuary is only about 20km out of Cunnamulla so we were there well before lunch time. It is run by volunteers on behalf of Australian Wildlife Conservancy. Visitors must call ahead and check in with the resident wardens. This was our third visit to Bowra, and as usual the current wardens were friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. We spent some time chatting with them before making our way to find a camp spot by the billabong. Most visitors are interested in birds, if not mad keen birdos, so there is always plenty of opportunity to compare notes.

At this time of year, there weren’t many visitors so we were able to snag the perfect spot with a view of the billabong and some shade. The down side was that this time there was a thick carpet of burrs and spiky vegetation, probably due to good rain early in the season. We did end up spending quite a bit of time pulling spiky things out of shoes, socks, clothing, feet and everything else they came into contact with.

Our view of the lagoon.
Red-kneed Dotterel
Yellow-billed Spoonbill
Major Mitchell's Cockatoo right in front of our camp by the lagoon.
White-browed Woodswallow male
White-browed Woodswallow female. In good numbers and breeding during our visit.
White-ewinged Triller male. These were also in good numbers around the lagoon.
In the nearby homestead dam I found a lone Pink-eared Duck as well as the usual grebes.
Australasian Grebe
On previous visits to Bowra we have spent some time driving the numerous tracks that criss cross the property. This time we spent most of our time by the billabong, with Mick making a couple of early morning excursions up to one of the dams. During the heat of the day we relaxed in the shade and enjoyed the peace and quiet.

This time at Bowra I had decided to concentrate on getting a good shot of Bourke's Parrots. My second priority was getting better shots of Blue Bonnets. Both species had frustrated my efforts in the past. Of course I would remain opportunistic and take advantage of whatever birds were around. Most of all, this time, I just wanted to enjoy being out there. 

On the first day I met Chris, a fellow bird photographer using similar gear to mine. He was much more enthusiastic and energetic than I had planned to be on this trip. Luckily some of his keenness rubbed off and I joined him on a couple of outings to the back dam. From about 6am to 9.30am we sat quietly by the water and shot a variety of birds coming in to drink. Lucky, I wouldn't have got my Bourke's shots if I hadn't joined Chris. Thanks you. Mick

The elusive Bourke's Parrots would appear sporadically, landing at the top of the bank then walking down to drink.
Bourke's Parrot
Bourke's Parrot
Major Mitchell's Cockatoo
Cockatiels took a long time to decide where to drink but eventually some landed in 'the zone'.
Diamond Doves
Mulga parrots
A pair of Galahs
A Spotted Bowerbird looking for a drink.
On our final day the forecast was for temperatures close to 40°C so we were glad to be heading off – but we also knew that we would be facing the heat wherever we ended up. We still had two nights until we had to be in Cobar so we considered our options and headed south towards Bourke.


Bourke
4 – 6 October 2019

We knew it was going to be hot and we watched the temperature rise as we headed south towards the Queensland – New South Wales border. We decided to escape the heat with a pub lunch in Engonnia before making our way to Bourke. With the temperature in the high 30’s and expected to stay there for the next few days, we chose the caravan park with a swimming pool, and checked into a cabin for two nights. You just can’t camp in a camper trailer in that sort of heat – unless you have no other option.

The pool was cool and the air conditioned cabin just what we needed for a couple of days of comparative luxury. We drove the short distance into town on Saturday to restock, refuel and have a look at what remains of the once mighty Darling River. It is hard to image, with the current drought conditions and government mismanagement of this precious resource, that this was once a thriving waterway with river ports along its length. So sad that it has come to this.

Darling River at Bourke.


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