Further East - Fitzgerald River, Mason Bay, Munglinup Beach

Fitzgerald River National Park - Hammersley Inlet Campground

16 – 18 November 2018

Our next destination was Fitzgerald River National Park. There are several sections and campgrounds but we were headed to the eastern section, requiring a drive back up to the highway and through several towns. We stopped for coffee and shopping at Jerramungup. While there we had a quick look at the Biosphere Gardens. I say quick because it has to be the smallest botanic garden we have ever visited. The weather forecast was for storms and we drove through increasingly heavy rain on the way to Ravensthorpe. By the time we arrived it was raining heavily and there was lightning around so we decided on lunch at a café – it was impossible weather for our customary picnic lunch. Continuing on towards Hopetoun, then turning off to the National Park we saw clearer skies. 

Visitors to Fitzgerald River National Park are required to pay a park entry fee, but we had our Holiday Pass which was still valid so we didn’t need to do this. From the entrance station we drove through forests of banksias and hakeas on the way to Hammersley Inlet. Along the way we passed turnoffs to a number of lookouts, beaches and walks. Arriving at the campground we settled on a site which allowed us to face the camper trailer towards some bush. This campground, although within the national park, is run by Ravensthorpe Council so the fees are lower than national park camp fees at $10 per vehicle per night. Great value for a campground with clean toilets and a barbecue shelter. There is no drinking water so it is important to bring your own.

White-browed Scrubwren. There weren't many birds around the campground.

Western Thornbill

We went for a walk down to the inlet and were a little disappointed with the location of the campground in proximity to the water, as well as the lack of walks and amount of cleared bush. Grey skies didn’t help either. Camping here does allow access to lots of other lovely spots as we found out the next day when we went for a drive.

We knew the forecast for Saturday was for a warmer day, but without internet access we were surprised to wake to a very warm morning. It certainly seemed like the day would be warmer than the low to mid-twenties we were expecting. We decided to go for a drive to some of the beaches. Along the way we hoped to get internet access to check the forecast. The outside temperature gauge in the car showed over thirty degrees and when we finally reached a point with signal, we found the new forecast was for a top of 36°! Quite a change from the weather we had experienced over the previous weeks – high teens to low twenties.

Walking track with a view.

Hakea victoria

Hakea victoria

Hakea victoria

Banksia

A Western Fieldwren seen on one of the lookout walks.

Western Fieldwren

We stopped to have a look at West Beach, Cave Point and East Mount Barren before heading home to rest through the hottest part of the day. Later in the afternoon, we drove back past the park entrance to the bird hide at Culham Inlet, then back to Barrens Beach and Four Mile Beach. We also stopped at the two lookouts which provide views across the inlets and surrounding area. As we have come to expect, the temperature dropped in the evening.

There were huge numbers of waders at the bird hide but they were a very long way off.

A Scrub Python stops traffic while crossing the road

Goanna

Barrens Beach

Sea urchin

A great view of the inlet and Four Mile Campground.

A local skink.

In the morning we chatted with a fellow camper and of course the conversation turned to birds, specifically the ones Mick was chasing. As luck would have it, she told us about Mason Bay campground where she had seen and heard lots of birds, including wattlebirds. Mick played the call for the Western wattlebird, one that he had been trying to find throughout south-west WA. She was absolutely certain that was the one she had heard, so we added Mason Bay as our next stop.

Mason Bay

18 – 20 November 2018

Mason Bay is only a short drive from Hopetoun so we headed there for a coffee and a look around once we had left the national park. We then travelled on the unsealed road to Mason Bay and the council-run campground right on the beach. Being a Sunday, and still quite early (well before lunch time) there we lots of people there but we found a spot in a section where there was no-one else camped. Our spot was very sheltered from the wind, but still only a very short walk to the beach.

As we were setting up, Mick spotted the Western Wattlebird in a tree right by our campsite. What luck! Setting up camp was interrupted while he tried to take photos.

'What are you looking at?' This Tawny Frogmouth was opposite our camp and wasn't happy about the sun waking it up.

Much more serene later in the afternoon.

The afternoon was very warm so Mick put out a dish of water for the birds. It was amazing how many came in for a drink and a bath. We also spotted a Tawny frogmouth in a tree opposite. Mason Bay is a popular fishing spot but we were content to relax and Mick had a ball photographing all the birds.

The camper trailer was useful as a hide here.

At times the bathing birds looked like they were trying for a Guinness Book of Records record.

Silvereye

A long awaited Western Wattlebird.

Grey Fantail

New Holland Honeyeaters holding hands.

We spent two nights there, and once again packed up camp in between showers of rain. After a couple of days of milder temperatures, it was back to cold again. We keep waiting for spring to arrive, even though it was only two weeks until the start of summer.

Back on the road with no firm destination this time, just a plan to look at a couple of places then make up our minds when we'd had a good look around.

Munglinup Beach

20 -21 November

We had a bit of a plan – have a look at Munglinup Beach, then Stokes Inlet then Esperance. We’d stay at the first place we liked the look of. First stop was Munglinup Beach. We drove past the caravan park down to the beach where there is a day use area and a council run camping area. Although it might have been nice camping by the beach, we decided that a night in a caravan park was needed after four nights in campgrounds without showers. It would also allow us to charge up batteries and ride out some more rain in a nice camp kitchen.

This Spotted-thighed Frog made its home in the camp kitchen.

Arriving just after 10:00 am we decided on only one night. With more wind and rain we settled in and made use of the great camp kitchen, chatting to other travellers and even getting to watch TV for a while. All in all, it was a restful day in a nice spot.

Once again there were clouds in the sky and showers around as we packed up to head in to Esperance, or maybe Stokes Inlet.