Albany

8 - 11 November 2018

Albany is a major centre so we decided to spend 3 nights, but we hadn't factored in that the show was in town for two of them. The first caravan park we visited couldn't accommodate us, but they called another affiliated one and they did have an ensuite site for three nights. Great! I think we ended up in the better spot anyway - just a short walk to Middleton Beach with its cafes and walking tracks.

Middleton Beach. It is a nice walk along the beach and around the headland.

It was great to see Red-capped Parrots feeding in trees around the caravan park.

Red-capped Parrot.

A King's Skink about 30cm long sunbathes on the grass next to our tent.

Albany is a significant site in the Anzac story, being the departure point for the first convoy of Austalian and New Zealand troops bound for the First World War. It is also believed that the first dawn service was conducted here. From October 2018 until April 2019, Albany was home to an immersive art installation by Bruce Monro. Field of Light - Avenue of Honour  pays homage to the Anzacs with 16 000 shining spheres lining the Avenue of Honour at the National Anzac Centre. We decided to visit on our first evening in Albany, in case the weather turned nasty. 

 

We arrived about 1/2 hour before sunset and walked along the avenue as the daylight faded and the lights started to glow. It was free to visit this exhibition and walk along the avenue, but there were also a number of package tours available at a cost. We waited at the top of the hill as night set in (all rugged up against the chilly air). The whites, yellows and golds of the lights reference the wattle of Australia and the kowhai of New Zealand. It was a beautiful and memorable display. We are so glad we visited, especially so close to Rememberance Day 2018 which marks 100 years since the guns fell silent on the Western Front.

It seemed to take forever for night to fall and the lights to glow.

Waiting in the cold was worth it in the end.

A closer look.

Not far from the caravan park there is a freshwater lake - unusual because of its proximity to the sea. This is a popular birdwatching spot with a walk all the way around and a bird hide on the opposite side to the car park. We visited the bird hide one afternoon where Mick met a local birder. The next morning we entered via the car park and walked about 500 metres along the board walk then back past the car park to a viewing platform which turned up a blue-billed duck.

Red-eared Firetail beside the track to the hide.

Musk Duck close up.

A handful of Musk Ducks called and chased each other around in front of the hide.

This Blue-billed Duck was found at a quieter part of the lake.

We don't usually sleep late, but the 5:07am earthquake on Friday 9 November 2019 certainly woke us up. The camper trailer shook and rattled, and at first we thought it was the wind but soon realised it was a small tremor. A check of Geoscience Australia revealed a 5.4 magnitude earthquake with its centre near Lake Muir, about 150km away. 

On Saturday morning we set off for Two Peoples Bay despite the inclement weather. It took about 1/2 hour to reach this beautiful spot within the Waychinicup National Park. There is a park entrance fee, payable at an automated pay station, and camping is not permitted. We had a four week visitor pass so didn't need to pay. We spent some time looking for a particular bird which is supposed to inhabit the area, without success, then went for a short walk through the bush, and down on to the beach. From there we drove the short distance to Little Beach which is even more beautiful. It reminded us of Bowen or Magnetic Island, close to home in North Queensland - just much colder!

Noisy Scrub-bird, Rufous Bristlebird and Western Whipbird are three birds that have a reputation for being very hard to find. The first two are endemic to WA and all inhabit the thick coastal heath in this area. Two Peoples Bay is reputed to be a good site for these skulkers but unfortunately our visit didn't result in any sightings. All three have distinct calls and I did hear the Rufous Bristlebird at Little Beach. Mick.

There were no people at Two Peoples Bay. No birds either.

Two Peoples Bay.

Little Beach

There is lots to do in Albany but we needed to keep moving, so we left on Sunday morning for Cheyne's Beach and other spots on the the South Coast of WA.