Cooktown

 31 May – 2 June 2021

From Lakeland we turned off the Peninsula Development Road and back onto the Mulligan Highway on the way to Cooktown. Not wanting to arrive right on lunch time we stopped at boat ramp on the Annan River for a slightly early picnic lunch, then on into Cooktown to find a caravan park. We hadn’t booked and were surprised to find there were no vacancies at our first choice. We drove on to our second choice, where we had stayed before a couple of times, and secured the last available powered site for two days. The tourism industry is supposed to be doing it tough, but this was not evidence of that.

We spent the afternoon considering our options for Rinyurri Lakefield National Park, only to find there were no campsites available until the end of the following week – the park was only opening on 1 June following a big wet season and was already filling up fast. We didn’t have the luxury of unlimited time so had to scratch that from the list. We also considered a couple pf days at the highly rated Elim Beach but had to abandon that idea when we realised we could not comply with the alcohol restrictions. As we were to be on the road for a number of weeks, we were carrying extra beer and cask wine. Cask wine is not permitted, and only one carton of beer is allowed. We’d have to save that for another time too.

In the afternoon we drove into town, and walked along the waterfront (Endeavour River). Spotting a family of kingfishers was a pleasant surprise so Mick spent some time trying to get some photos of them. There is a well-stocked independent supermarket so we bought some supplies before returning to the caravan park.

In the morning we headed out to Mulbabidgee Keatings Lagoon – another favourite spot. More disappointment when we saw the locked gate and the sign saying the walk, which includes the bird hide and picnic area, was closed due to flooding. We were able to walk along the fenceline adjacent to the road and get a good look at the lagoon which was teeming with birds up in the trees, but not much on the water. The waterbirds come to Mulbabidgee when the other waterholes dry up, which hadn’t happened yet.

Sheltering from a passing shower, we were in the car when the Ranger arrived – to check and open the track! Great timing, we were the first into the conservation area and spent a short time at the bird hide, before heading back into town. On the way we took a short detour to Quarantine Bay – a very pretty spot – before returning home for coffee.

Washing done and hung out, the clouds had moved on so we set off for the Cooktown Botanical Gardens. This is a beautiful spot, developed in an area that was once used by Chinese market gardeners, in the late 1800’s. At this time of year it was lush and green, and was a hive of activity as staff watered and spread mulch. We returned home for lunch and to catch up on some housekeeping, before returning to the waterfront to revisit the kingfishers – always chasing that perfect shot.

In the morning we packed up the trailer and left it on the caravan park site while we went in to town to get fuel and have one last look for the kingfishers – and yes, they were there again. After a short session with the camera we went back and hitched up the trailer, then drove back into town for coffee and a quick look around. Our next destination, Lion’s Den Hotel at Rossville, was only a short drive away.