Hartz Mountains National Park

 26 December 2021

After a wonderful Christmas Day with family, inluding a surprise visit from my sister, we decided on a day out on Boxing Day. Julia suggested Hartz Mountains - one of her favourite places, and one we hadn't visited yet. Packing a picnic lunch was easy with so many leftovers to choose from. and all the equipment needed in our camping kit.

The forecast was for the possibility of showers, but nothing drastic, so we decided to drive south to Huonville and make a final decision there. By the time we arrived in Huonville we could see some light showers on the BoM radar, but decided to press on regardless. After a quick stop in Geeveston we turned onto the Hartz Road which would take un into the national park. A Parks Pass is required so we had renewed ours online before we left home.

Arriving at the carpark we were surprised at the large number of vehicles there. We had enough time before lunch to walk to Lake Osborne, a 2km, Grade 2 track on boardwalk and hard surface. The views were magnificent and the weather was everything we expected - cold, cloudy, sunny, drizzly, windy, still.

Returning to the carpark we set up for lunch in the picnic shelter, glad to be out of the cold for a while. There is plenty of room for a number of groups but we were the only ones there at the time. 

Even though it it was still cold and windy we decided to tackle the longer (3.4km - Grade 3) walk to Lake Esperance after lunch. Not far into the walk there was a shower of quite heavy rain which, thankfully, didn't last too long. Again there were magnificent views and mostly boardwalk and hard surface, but this walk also had sections that were uneven and steep. It was worth it for the reward of the views from the lake as well as the alpine and sub-alpine vegetation along the way. Having a botanist in the group allowed us to gain a greater understanding of the eco system and its biodiversity.

After two fabulous walks, and a wonderful lunch we decided that we'd head home to Hobart, needing the warmth of the car. We didn't know what the temperature had been when we were up at Lake Esperance but it couldn't have been more than 5° or 6° - with  a "feels like" probably below 0° at times. We were very glad for our puffer jackets, beanies and gloves.

Scamander

 11 - 12 December 2021

Because the east coast of Tasmania is a very popular tourist destination we booked ahead for a spot in the caravan park in Scamander - hoping that the weather would clear. We set off from Mole Creek, through Deloraine and on towards the turn-off that would take us through St Mary's. The weather wasn't too promising and it was icy cold and drizzling rain when we stopped at the local market in Fingal. We could see blue sky ahead so were hopeful.

It was only lunch time when we arrived in Scamander so we opted for another pub lunch rather than going straight to the caravan park. Another nice meal, this time with a fire going, and a great view of the river mouth. After lunch we drove the short distance to the caravan park and checked in. We were expecting it to be quite crowded but we were surprised to see only three sites occupied (including ours). We chose a spot near the camp kitchen and amenities. It was cold and windy but the rain held off long enough for us to go for a long walk along the bush tracks to the beach then up to the river mouth and back through the bush to the caravan park. 

We took advantage of the well equipped camp kitchen, which we had all to ourselves, so we could stay out of the wind. After our final night camping for a while we set off for our temporary home in Hobart, and time with our girls.

Mole Creek

 10 - 11 December 2021

We disembarked from the Spirit of Tasmania in Devonport early and were yet to decide where we would go. We wanted to delay our arrival in Hobart until Sunday so we had a couple of days to fill in. After a quick discussion as we drove away from the port we made up our minds to head to Narawntapu National Park for a walk and to consider camping.

It took just over 1/2 hour to travel to the national park from Devonport and contemplate what we would do. We decided that a walk around the campground for a look and then the walk to the bird hide would be a good start. The parks pass we purchased on our last visit to Tasmania was still valid so we didn't need to get another one yet. After a look at the campground, and considering what we might do for the next few days we decided that we would just go for the walk and then set off for somewhere else. We had all day to fill in anyway so were in no hurry to get settled.

The walk to the bird hide is an easy 30 minute stroll but there wasn't much bird life on the water - just a few black swans and a some ducklings, without an adult nearby. Mick took some photos and then we headed back towards the visitor centre. Along the way he spotted some potential subjects in the grassy area so spent some time there with the camera.

We decided to go to Mole Creek to camp as we had never stayed there before and reviews suggested the caravan park was a good place to stay. It was still early so we took some back roads through Sassafras and enjoyed the country scenery. On the way to Mole Creek, we stopped at Melita Honey Farm in Chudleigh for some local honey and a honey ice cream. The ice cream is a favourite of Mick's and it was a warm day - so why not? 

We arrived at Mole Creek well before lunch and after much deliberation settled on a creek side site. There was a fire pit adjacent so we purchased some firewood for the forecast cold night. We hadn't had a pub meal for some weeks so decided to celebrate our arrival in Tasmania with lunch at the local. Nice pub, nice meal and still most of the day to explore - or not.

After our very early start to the day onboard Spirit of Tasmania we both needed an afternoon nap before going out for a drive. We had previously visited the famous Mole Creek Caves so headed in a different direction to investigate a possible camping spot. The campground at Honeycomb Caves looked nice enough but there had obviously been lots of rain recently and the track was in very bad condition. In good weather it would be a good spot with lots of bush around. From the campground we followed the sign to Westmorland Falls only to find that the walk to the falls is a 2 hour return walk. We decided not to as it was getting late in the day. 

Back at camp we organised dinner and lit the fire. It was lovely to be able to have a fire on a cold night. We didn't use all the firewood before bedtime so we had another small fire in the morning while we had breakfast. We had made up our minds to move on so we gifted the remaining wood to the neighbours.

The weather on the east coast looked to be nice enough so we decided on a night at Scamander before going on to Hobart.

Spirit of Tasmania

 9 - 10 December 2021

We left Mount Gambier and crossed into Victoria, ready for the long drive into Melbourne. We found a park in Hamiltion for lunch which we at in the car - partly because of the really cold wind that was blowing. From there we made a toilet stop before we reached Ballarat. Once we were on the motorway it was non-stop into Melbourne - with only a short detour thanks to the GPS sending us in the wrong direction. One day we will get to drive through Melbourne without getting lost.

We had booked a night sail on the Spirit of Tasmania and the current border restrictions meant we had to stay overnight in South Australia and then travel directly to the Spirit of Tasmania without any stop-overs. All on-board facilities (bars, restaurant, shop etc) were closed and travellers were required to remain in cabins at all times. We packed some drinks and some food for our evening meal as well as some muesli bars for breakfast. We also packed a DVD to watch and scrabble cards to help pass the time. 

We arrived at Station Pier about 1/2 hour after check-in had begun and had our border passes checked, our biosecurity quarantine check, then were issued our cabin cards. We then drove on-board and were in our cabin in just a few minutes. It was clear from the slow trickle of cars which we could see from our window that there weren't many passengers compared to previous trips. 

Onboard, we were provided with a "care pack" as well and were grateful for this extra that we hadn't expected - chocolate, cereal and milk, fruit, snack bar, chips and water. The sea was relatively calm and we both slept well throughout the night. In the morning we used the special door tag to summon a member of staff to arrange a coffee. We were pleased with the prompt and friendly service.

We disembarked quickly and had our Covid checks - Tas-E-Travel passes scanned and temperature checks, as well as some questions about how we had travelled to Melbourne and we were on our way.

Mount Gambier

 7 - 9 December 2021

We left Meningie for Mount Gambier intending to stay for 2 nights in a cabin. With the border restrictions that were in place at the time, we would be permitted into Tasmania as long as we didn't stop-over in Victoria, and provided we hadn't been in a venue that was deemed to be a Covid exposure site, With this in mind we decided to travel to Mount Gambier via Robe to visit the bird hide at Fox Lake.

We travelled south along the Coorong, with a stop for a stretch in Kingston SE. From there we drove on to Robe and Fox Lake. There had been a reported sighting of a bird Mick had not seen before so he was very excited when he saw it almost as soon as we arrived. We spent some time there and then went down to Jumbo's Landing on Lake Battye for a picnic lunch. We were doing our best to avoid crowded venues and indoor eateries, so picnic lunches in parks suited us well. 

From Robe we continued on to Mount Gambier where we checked into a cabin. The weather wasn't great so we were glad we had decided to do this. We had time to do some rearranging of the gear in the car, and to plan how we would get through Victoria to Station Pier and the Spirit of Tasmania. We did some shopping to allow us to have a couple of days camping when we arrived in Tasmania.

We had booked a night sail so we could drive through the day rather than the night and were able to get a slightly later check-out from the cabin on our last morning. We packed a picnic lunch and set off towards the border.

Meningie

 5 - 7 December 2021

After 5 nights at Hahndorf, and having both the car and camper trailer in to repairers we were ready to start making our way towards the Victorian border. We chose Meningie as our next stop and managed to book site in the caravan park, right on the lake. We'd stayed there before and it's a nice town, on beautiful  Lake Albert. 

We left Hahndorf and made one last stop at Laratinga Wetlands. Mick was rewarded with some shots of a blue-billed duck. From Mount Barker we drove on towards Langhorne Creek on the Fleurieu Peninsula. This is just one of South Australia's many wine regions. From there we made our way to Wellington, where we crossed the Murray River on a ferry again.

We arrived in Meningie, on the northern edge of the Coorong, just on lunch time so stopped at the park in town to have a picnic lunch and a walk. We were surprised at just how many people were doing the same thing. It was a beautiul day, but quite windy. After lunch we drove on the caravan park and set up on the lake's edge site that had been allocated for us. It is such a lovely place to sit and watch the lake and it's resident birdlife. 

We had a  quiet couple of days in Meningie but did get down to the bird hide just near the school. Unfortunately we had timed our arrival to coincide with a school activity! We left them to it, and headed up to the lookout. 

Our next, and final nights, in South Australia would be Mount Gambier so we decided to stop in Robe on our way there.

Hahndorf

 30 November - 5 December 2021

We set off from Gluepot, carefully negotiating the mud and damaged sections of road. We had hoped to spend a few more days there but a problem with the camper trailer, which would require a repair meant we had to make our way towards Adelaide. We crossed the River Murray back into Waikerie and then headed for Blanchetown where we stopped for a picnic lunch.

While we were at Waikerie we tried to book in to the caravan park at Mount Barker. Unfortunately they were only taking bookings from fully self contained travellers so we had to look elsewhere. We were able to book a site for a couple of nights at Hahndorf which is close enough to Mount Barker to allow easy visits to Laratinga Wetlands.

From Blanchetown we followed the river until we crossed again at Walker Flat - again on a ferry. From  there it was on through Mannum and on to Murray Bridge. At Murray Bridge we pulled into a car wash to remove the vast quantities of sticky mud from Gluepot that had adhered to every lower surface on the car and camper trailer, and the dust covering the rest.

We checked in at Hahndorf with plenty of time to make an afternoon visit to Laratinga Wetlands. Laratinga has become a favourite when we are in the Adelaide Hills area and we have visited a few times. This time the water level was much higher than previously and the bird life wasn't as good as Mick had expected but he did meet a fellow birder who told him about anothe spot - Cox Scrub - that would be worth visiting.

We decided that a morning visit to Cox Scrub would be in order so we set off quite early and found our way there. Chris provided very explicit directions and we were able to find the right spot - two small puddles of water on the walking track that attracted a number of birds. Mick sat happily with the tripod for some time. It was a lovely spot but quite cold, with the early morning mist still low on the hills. There are no facilities at Cox Scrub, but there are a number of well marked walking tracks.

When we returned home we contacted a repairer to enquire about having the zip replaced on the Cub and they were able to fit us in straight away. This led to a mad dash to cancel our campsite and find a cabin for the rest of the week. Fortunately they were able to meet our needs where we were at Hahndorf so we unpacked the trailer and moved all our gear into a cabin, before driving in to the repairer in Adelaide. We would have some luxury for the next 4 nights.

We also had the car booked in to have some work done so that was another trip in to Adelaide as well. While we were staying at Hahndorf we revisited Cox Scrub a couple of more times and generally stayed out of the way of the "touristy" spots. We didn't want to compromise our ability to enter Tasmania without quarantine by being caught in a "hot spot". We collected the trailer on Saturday and left Hahndorf on Sunday morning. We had decided Meningie would be a good place for a couple of days as we worked out way towards the Victorian border.

Gluepot Reserve

 27 - 30 November 2021

We set off for Gluepot knowing we could stay up to 5 days if we wanted to, but aiming for 3 or 4. The weather had cleared and we were expecting a few warm days, with over 30 by mid-week. Shortly after the turn-off we started to see the effects of some very heavy rain over the last few days. Gluepot rarely receives much rain, but this had not been the case in the previous weeks, with over 60mm recorded. The road in traverses private property and there were a number of very large puddles which had to be negotiated carefully around. Further on there was a stretch where the road had been washed away requiring some precision driving.

There was more very large puddles once we reached Gluepot itself. We tried to drive around each one so as not to further damage the road. We stopped at Emu Hide on the way in and chatted with some fellow birders. On arrival at the visitor centre we signed in and met the ranger. After a quick chat, and after paying our modest camping fees we made our way to Babbler Campground. Each of the three campgrounds are well set up with toilets and some picnic tables. Fires are definitely not allowed on the property. We chose a spot with its own picnic table and settled in.

Late in the afternoon we made our way to Whistler Tank Hide at the suggestion of the ranger who indicated that the Regent Parrots may be found there. It was a short drive from Babbler Campground, then a 2.5km walk. Afternoon probably wasn't the best time to be there but it was a good walk anyway and allowed MIck to work out when he should be heading off in the morning.

Up at 5:00am, Mick set off for Whistler Hide while I enjoyed a quiet morning at camp. He was rewarded with lots of photos of the parrots was well as other species. He repeated the effort the following morning and was similarly rewarded. In the afternoon we took a drive around to some of the other hides - carefully avoiding the worst of the wet roads.

On our final morning we ventured across the road to the Babbler Walk (South). Not far in, Mick found a very birdy spot so he stayed there while I continued on the 2.7km walk. I had been using a hiking app on my phone and discovered that it was actually 3.3km. It was well marked and easy though. Once we were both back at camp we packed up and departed the campground.

We stopped at the visitor centre to check out and the ranger advised us that they had actually closed the reserve again the previous day as a result of the state of the road in. Although we had not experienced too much difficulty getting through they were concerned about potential visitors in 2WD vehicles. We were indeed fortunate to get in when we did.

We set off back to Waikerie and then on towards Mount Barker and another favourite birding spot.

Waikerie

 22 - 27 November 2021

After leaving Red Banks quite late we drove in to Morgan for lunch in a lovely park by the river. The sun was shining and the day was warming up considerably. From there we went on the ferry over the Murray River and on to Waikerie. We checked in to the caravan park as the temperature reached the high 20's - so different to a week ago when it was only 11's and 12's. I took the opportunity to get a load of washing done ahead of the rain that was due over the next few days.

On Tuesday we did a bit of exploring around the town and stopped for coffee in the Waikerie Bakery. We called in to the Visitor Information Centre and picked up some maps and brochures. It rained on and off for much of the day so we pottered at home for the afternoon. When the rain stoppped we drove down to the bird hide on the nearby Hart Lagoon. Later, we walked for a short way along the river but had to hurry home when an approaching storm whipped up the wind. The rain, fortunately, mostly bypassed us.

Wednesday morning was dry but very overcast so we set off after breakfast for the Clifftop Walk. This interesting and well marked walk follows the river and has lots of vantage points to take in the views. There is also lots of old machinery, relics from the early days of irrigation in the district. Interpretive signage adds to the experience. During the afternoon the rain bucketted down leaving us restricted to inside the tent. We were very pleased when it started to ease about an hour before we were scheduled to go on an evening cruise on the river.

The rain had completely stopped by the time we set off to walk down to the River Gum Cruise mooring for an evening on the water. There were only six of us, plus the captain and crew (husband and wife James and Sandra). The commentary was interesting and informative without being longwinded and the platter of local produce was delicious. To top it off we did get a lovely sunset as well.

We had more rain through the night and more forecast for Thursday. We had only intended to stay in Waikerie for three days, but added an extra one in the hope that we could get on to Gluepot once the sky cleared. With our extra day we decided on a drive - the drizzling rain made a long walk out of the question. Just out of Waikerie we stopped at Illalangi Gourmet Foods to buy some goodies for Christmas gifts then headed on for a look at Kingston-on-Murray. From there we went on the Barmera, then back past Lake Bonney.

We planned to have lunch at a popular pub - The Overland Corner Hotel - on the way home but we arrived minutes after a tour bus had disgourged its contents. We decided to give that one a miss and headed back to Waikerie. Lunch in the pub there was fabulous! I had lamb shanks and Mick had his favourite - pizza (of which there was plenty left over for dinner).

The sky looked to be clearing so we were hopeful about being able to get to Gluepot. Friday was clear so we went for another drive - this time a loop westward - across the river at Waikerie, then on to Cadell where we crossed back over the river. From there we went down to have a look at a popular camping spot - Hogwash Bend. Being a Friday it was quite crowded, but it looked like there were some very nice places where you could set up for a few days. As luck would have it we had to drive right past Caudo Winery on the way back to the main road. Unfortunately the bar had just closed but we were able to purchase a take-away bottle of sangria. Only one, as I hadn't tried it and didn't want to take any chances if it wasn't to my liking. (I discovered a few days later that it most definitely was to my liking.)

We checked the Gluepot Facebook page on Saturday morning and the status had been updated to show that the roads were open - although with some water laying around, caution would need to be excercised. We packed up, looking forward to a few days away from the crowds who had descended on the caravan park for the weekend. Back across the river again and we were on our way.

Red Banks Conservation Park

 21 - 22 November 2021

We left Port Broughton and headed inland towards Burra to Red Banks Conservation Park. We wanted to get to Gluepot Reserve but rain had closed the roads there for a couple of days so we decided to try camping at Red Banks, near Burra. We had visited the day use area and it looked like it would be a great overnight spot.

On the way we stopped at Crystal Brook for a stretch and then Burra for lunch. We had a walk around the town and visited the local art gallery after our picnic by the creek. From there we set off for Red Banks.

When we arrived we were the only ones in the campground so had the pick of the spots. We drove right around and chose a drive through spot with a view of the mallee and the banks a short distance away. We were pleasantly surprised just how warm the day had become but were prepared for another very cold night. There was little to no wind which was also a nice change. During the afternoon one other camper trailer arrived and set up on the other side of the campground. The binoculars gave it away - a fellow birder.

In the morning Mick was up just on sunrise and out in the mallee with the camera, while I slept in. We had a leisurely breakfast and decided to stay until after morning tea. We then headed over to the day use area for another look around and ran into the neighbour. Of course there was an in-depth conversation about where to find which birds.

We had checked the weather and decided we would wait out the rainy days to come in Waikerie, so we headed for the caravan park which is on the River Murray.

Port Broughton

 19 - 21 November 2021

Our next destination was Port Broughton, where we had booked a couple of nights in a caravan park. Rain was again forecast, but there didn't seem to be anywhere dry in South Australia anyway. Our first stop after leaving the Dhilba Guuranda-Innes National Park was Warooka, for a coffee and most delicious pie. It was a cold and drizzly day so we felt it was justified.

We made our lunch stop in Minlaton which is a fair size town. They even had an optometrist so I was able get my specs fixed. Because of the cold, we chose a bakery cafe for lunch - another pie for Mick and a sausage roll for me. We also did some grocery shopping and then continued our journey north. We detoured off the main route to visit Port Victoria - just for a look - and arrived in Port Broughton just ahead of another shower of rain. Fortunately we were able to get set up just as the rain started. This time we had managed to get an ensuite site which makes things a bit easier in the wet.

It was not only wet, but also extremely cold so we spent most of the afternoon indoors reading and playing scrabble cards. We ate dinner inside with the heater on too.

The rain continued during the night but eased through the morning allowing a visit to the town for the obligatory walk along the jetty and look at the shops. We also checked out the menu at the pub and decided to return for lunch.

Given that there were fishing boats around we settled on seafood for lunch - grilled whiting for Mick, and the Broughton Basket for me - crumbed whiting and prawns. All fresh and tasty, with great service as well. There was rain on and off in the afternoon but we were able to get in a walk along the beach and then drinks with our neighbours, also Queenslanders.

Sunday morning was still cold but the sun was shining and there was the promise of a warmer day. Once we had packed up we drove down to the foreshore for a walk and a coffee before setting off for Redbanks Conservation Park.

Dhilba Guuranda-Innes National Park - Casuarina Campground

 17 - 19 November 2021

Once again we woke to cloudy skies and rain, which had thankfully stopped by the time we climbed out of bed. The canvas was dry by the time we started to pack up and we were starting to see blue sky above. We had booked our campsite in the national park online, so set off by about 9:30am.

As we already had our parks pass we didn't need to call in to the visitor centre. For those who haven't already booked, computer terminals are available at the entrance to the centre. We drove down to Stenhouse Bay for a look around. There was once a thriving Gypsum industry here and there are lots of interesting pieces of evidence to be seen. Interpretive signage provides background information at this, and many other sites. We walked down to the jetty and also to have a look at Little Emu Beach.

From there we drove on and stopped to have a look at Cable Bay Beach. Our next stop was the old town of Inneston. Again there was lots of interesting information along the 2km town walk. I couldn't resist a photo of the old Bellco Chalk factory - most of my teacher friends would have used this product without giving any thought to its origins.

From Inneston it was just a short drive on to Casuarina Campground. When booking online the information available about the actual sites is helpful but the one thing you don't know is how easy - or not - the sites will be to manoeuvre the camper trailer into. The one we chose - Number 6 - was not! Mick exhibited amazing skill and we were on after only a few harsh words.

Once we were set up and had finished lunch we went for a walk to Pondalowie Bay. This walk through the dunes is well marked and fairly easy - except for the last climb to the top of the highest dune. The view from the top made it totally worthwhile. We walked down onto the beach and along a short way to the wreck of the O U Dog, one of a number of wrecks along this stretch of coast. Despite the really cold weather, the flowering plants reassured us that it was, indeed, spring.

The wind picked up during the afternoon and Mick did everything he could to secure the camper trailer but we still endured a very restless night. The wind howled in gusts that were probably in excess of 50km/h and we could see and hear a thunderstorm in the distance. In the morning we agonised over whether to cut our trip short and head somewhere else, or risk another night like the one before, or worse. With intermittent internet access we were able to establish that the following night should be better, and the warm, sunny day convinced us to stay.

We went for a drive to West Cape and for the walk to the lighthouse. Spectacular 360 degree views from the lookout were our reward for braving the cold wind. We then drove on to have a look at the Ethel wreck. With lighter winds the day was reasonably pleasant but the wind was forecast to pick up again in the evening. We were relieved that it was not as ferocious as the previous night.

We both agreed that this national park would be a great place to camp for more than a couple of days - but only if the weather was better. From there we headed north towards Port Broughton.

Marion Bay

 15 - 17 November 2021

We set off from Port Vincent and drove south towards Marion Bay intending to make some detours and stop in for a look at some of the other towns along the way. Our first detour was to Wool Bay, the site of a Lime Kiln. The wind was blowing and it was very unpleasant so we didn't walk down onto the beach to have a good look. From there we drove through Coobowie and Edithburgh. By that time we were looking for a somewhere to have a coffee, but there didn't seem to be anything open so we pressed on.

Coming into Yorketown we found a number of cafes, and chose one with suitable parking nearby. Driving out of Yorketown we passed a number of salt lakes. Looking at the map it appears there are hundreds in the area. We continued on to Marion Bay arriving before lunch time.

We checked into the caravan park which is right on the beach, but with some shelter from the vegetation on the dune. The weather forecast promised better weather for the next few days so we were hoping to be able to get out and about a bit more. We started with a walk along the beach towards the jetty, and later on a drive to Dhilba Guuranda-Innes National Park, which is only a few kilometres away. We only wanted to go to the visitor centre to ask a few questions about the various campgrounds, but the centre was closed for the day.

We drove back to Marion Bay and visited a number of lookouts and a short walk along the headland all with fabulous views. We also went back to the jetty which looks to be very popular for fishing and squidding.

Tuesday morning saw the sun shining and almost no wind at all. We went for a walk along the beach again and then drove back to the national park and talked to one of the rangers, who answered our questions about best camping spots, and where to find birds. After a bit more research we booked a campsite in the Casuarina Campground for two nights. We enjoyed a day with no rain and even walked up to the pub for a pre-dinner drink.

In the morning we packed up and drove to the national park for the next two nights.

Port Vincent

 13 - 15 November 2021

We left Port Augusta and set off for the Yorke Peninsula. Mick was sure we had been there on our round Australia trip in 1991, but I was just as sure that we hadn't. We drove along Highway 1 and turned off to have coffee in Snowtown. From there we drove to Port Wakefield then turned off towards the peninsula. The sky was cloudy, but with only occassional light showers of rain. We drove into Androssan for a look around then found a nice picnic spot for lunch on the way to Port Vincent.

We found the caravan park and set up, before going for a walk on the beach and along the foreshore. The weather had improved - less rain - but the wind was picking up. It was also very cold, with "feels like" temperartures in the single digits. We spent most of our time inside the camper trailer with the heater on.

On Sunday morning we went for a drive to Stansbury and managed a walk on the beach, and the jetty, despite the cold and wind. We also had coffee in a cafe near the beach before heading home. More indoor time was in order for the rest of our stay. The forecast was for the wind to start to weaken from Sunday evening.

The wind and rain continued throughout the night but we did see some blue sky on Monday morning, but it didn't last long. We ended up packing up with the canvas damp but there was really no other choice. We left Port Vincent for Marion Bay, intending to stop and look at some of the other towns on the Yorke Peninsula along the way.

Port Augusta

 9 - 13 November 2021

While we were having lunch in Quorn we booked an ensuite site in Port Augusta. The Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens is a 5 minute drive from the caravan park, so it would give us plenty of time to visit. Unfortunately the weather forecast was for some rain, but we hoped we would get some clear skies.

Once we arrived and settled in, we saw that the forecast had been updated to rain throughout most of South Australia until the weekend. With that in mind, and seeing we were in an ensuite site, we extended for another two nights. For our first night the wind whipped up and blew hard for most of the night, with some rain as well. We were warm and dry inside the trailer but the noise meant little sleep.

In the morning there was mostly cloud, but a little bit of blue sky so we headed over to the Arid Lands and enjoyed an hour in the gardens. We also treated ourselves to a delicious morning tea in the on-site cafe as well as a look around the gift shop. From there we headed into town to do some shopping. Back at home and having lunch we noticed that a severe weather warning had been issued that included Port Augusta. Reading the details we decided it might not be sensible to stay in the camper (thunderstorm with gale force winds, hail, flooding). The staff at the caravan park were fantastic converting our booking to a budget cabin - the only cabin left for three nights.

We packed up the trailer in the rain and moved to the other side of the caravan park. The budget cabin was quite adequate although it had seen better days. It was clean, everything worked, including TV and air conditioner. We unpacked and made ourselves comfortable as the storm drew closer. We were certainly glad to have a roof over our heads as lightning struck very close, several times. The rain and wind continued throughout the night, and intermittently through the next day.

The storm continued through the night although not as ferocious as it had been in the afternoon. We ended up staying in for the whole day as it rained constantly, sometimes quite heavily.

On the Friday morning there were glimpses of blue sky so we set off for the Arid Lands Botanic Gardens again. We didn't last too long this time due to the cold and windy conditions. At least we weren't getting rained on this time. We retreated to the cafe - this time for a very nice piece of quandong slice with our coffee. From there we went into town to get bread from the bakery we had discovered earlier in the week, fuel up and get a replacement headlight bulb for the Prado.

When we arrived home it looked like the rain might hold off long enough to get some washing done. It turned out that the caravan park was providing washing machines for free due to some maintenance issues. This worked out very well as I had two loads to do, and we were able to put most of it through the dryer for free too! We spent the rest of our time sorting our gear and checking the weather forecast to determine our next stop. In the end we decided to put Gluepot on hold and head for the Yorke Peninsula.

The sky was grey when we left Port Augusta, but we started to see some blue as we drove along. We were hoping for better weather ahead.

Ikara - Flinders Ranges National Park - Brachina Gorge, Teamsters Campground

 8 - 9 November 2021

We had scoped out some campgrounds on a drive up to Blinman on Friday, and chose Teamsters as the most suitable. It has large sites, toilets and a great view of Brachina Gorge.

We arrived in time for a late morning tea, and walk down into the gorge. The weather wasn't great, with cloudy skies, but no rain, and little wind. We enjoyed our peaceful surroundings, with only the occasional car passing along the road nearby. It looked like we might be the only ones there, but a family arrived late in afternoon. Mick spent some time out with the camera while I read in the shade - just a perfect afternoon.

After a fairly cold night, the sky cleared and the sun came out. As the rocky gorge became lighter we were able to spot some Yellow-footed rock wallabies sunning themselves at the entrances to a couple of the many caves that we could see along the gorge wall.

We didn't need to rush off so made pancakes for breakfast and enjoyed an extra cup of tea as the day warmed up. We left around 10am and headed for Hawker where we aired up the tyres, bought a coffee and attended to some phone calls. From there it was on the Quorn for a picnic lunch and then to Port Augusta.

Ikara - Flinders Ranges National Park - Wilpena Pound

 4 - 8 November 2021

We left Arkaroola and took the same road we had come in on, back to Copley. There is another way, via Blinman, but is further on unsealed road. We made it to Copley just on lunch time so stopped in the park for a picnic. This is a nice spot with shelter shed, picnic tables and toilets. From there we set off for Wilpena Pound in Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park.

Following the GPS we drove south to Parachilna, then further south to a "scenic drive" just near Merna Mora Station. The Moralana Scenic Drive is unsealed but is definitely scenic. Not sure why the GPS took us that way but we were glad it did.

Checking in to the caravan park at Wilpena Pound Resort, we could see that it was quite busy. We had a choice of a couple of sites, but ended up on one with morning shade, rather than afternoon which we would have preferred. The setting is lovely with lots of trees around. After we had settled in we went for a walk to have a look at the small supermarket - and they had a fabulous array of ice-creams. Who could resist?

We decided to have a day out on Friday - a drive up to Blinman and then on to have a look at a couple of campgrounds for future reference. We left after morning tea time and headed north towards Blinman. On the way we stopped at a number of points of interest. First was Huck's Lookout, then on to Stokes Hill Lookout. As expected, both afforded fabulous views of Ikara - Flinders Ranges National Park.

From there we turned off the highway again to drive the 3 kilometres to Appealinna Ruins. This is a lovely spot with lots of interpretive signage telling the stories of the early white settlers - pastoralists and miners - and the conflicts between the two groups. There is a picnic table but no other facilities.

Travelling further north we called in to Dingley Dell Campground - this one was a bit too close to the main road for us but still looked like a nice spot. From there we continued on to Blinman.

Once we arrived at Blinman we headed to the pub - North Blinman Hotel - for lunch. I had the roo schnitty - it was tender and tasty. It came with the usual chips and salad and it was nice to have some fresh salad - something that is not always easy to come by in remote places. After lunch set off towards Parachilna.

Many of the drives in the Flinders Ranges travel through, and beside, magnificent gorges. The road from Blinman goes through Parachilna Gorge and we tried to locate the spot where we had camped when we were here 30 years ago. We couldn't be certain as there were no designated campsites then - you just purchased a permit and camped wherever you liked. We did find a couple of likely candidates.

When we reached Parachilna, we headed south again and turned off to drive along the Brachina Gorge Geologial Trail. This road meanders along the gorge and signage indicates the different types and ages of rock visible in the landscape. Again we tried to identify a previous campsite where we had seen Yellow-footed rock wallabies without much success. We stopped at Brachina Lookout and Teamsters Campground. We made note of this campground as one that would be nice for us.

We looked at Brachina East campground then turned off onto the Bunyeroo Gorge Road. Again we had a look at a couple of campgrounds which looked promising, and also at Welsh's Lookout and Razorback Lookout. Each lookout offers stunning views and great photo opportunities. Returning to the Flinders Ranges Way, we continued on back to Wilpena Pound.

On Saturday morning we set off fairly early to walk the Hills Homestead track. This walk is about 6.6km return and is rated easy. It travels along the creek and then on to the homestead which has been restored from ruins. It was an easy walk, as promised, and took us around the estimated 2 hours. There are other, more strenuous walks for those younger and fitter than us.

We stayed around camp for the rest of the day, just enjoying the peace and quiet. We planned on an early start in the morning so Mick could, hopefully, photograph some emus.

Up early, as planned, and we headed out of the campground and along the road towards Flinders Ranges Way. We hadn't gone far, and had not even reached the main road, when Mick spotted some emus, with a perfect background. Successful photos in just a few minutes! We continued on as far as Huck's Lookout for some photos with the clouds down low over the ranges.

On the way back we detoured to the Old Wilpena Homestead. Mick wasn't terribly interested so I went back down on my own later in the day. It was an interesting site, with many of the old station buildings still standing and restored. Interpretive signage provided an insight to life on the land on the late 19th century. There was also an acknowledgement of the first nations people of this country - the Adnyamathanha people - in the form of a meeting place.

We booked our next stay - a night at Teamsters Campground in the national park, and set off in the morning for a night in the bush.

Arkaroola

 2 - 4 November 2021

We decided that we would head for Arkaroola despite the forecast storms - we had to take the chance as we might not get another. We set off from Copley to drive the 130 km along unsealed roads. The road was in fairly good condition and we made good time. Along the way we stopped to have a look at a couple of national park camping spots.

There are two spots in the Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park that we want to have a look at. The first was Italowie Campground. This was just off the main road and easy to access with wide open spaces, marked camp spots, fire pits and toilets. There was a stunning view of the gorge wall, but not much shade.

The other spot we looked at was Weetootla Campground. This one was about 5km off the main road along a rough track. The campground is in open ground, with fire pits, toilets and a picnic table. We decided to have lunch here and found some shade - unfortunately the picnic table was not in shade.

From there we continued on to Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary. We were greeted by a very friendly and efficient receptionist who explained everything we needed to know, and suggested some activities. Because it was late in the tourist season, there weren't many people camping so we were able to choose our own spot in the caravan park. We were able to snag one close to the amenities, with a killer view of the ranges. We had plenty of room to spread out, but this would not have been the case if the place were full. Sites are quite small and packed in tight. We, along with the other 2 camper trailers, and 1 caravan, took up two spots each. There are powered and unpowered sites in the caravan park, as well as unpowered camping along the creek. There is limited water, and none available to fill water tanks - no problem for us as we arrived with a full tank.

Each evening, at around 6:00pm, staff feed the Yellow-footed rock wallabies. It was explained that this is only a supplementary feed, and was started after a major drought in 2017. These wallabies are only found in the Flinders Ranges.

During the afternoon there had been some major wind gusts so Mick had put in extra ropes and pegs to secure the camper trailer. The forecast storm didn't eventute but there was some significant wind gusts throughout the night.

In the morning we set off on one of a number of drives within the sanctuary. Our destination was Stubbs Waterhole. This 11.5km drive takes in some magnificent scenery as well as a number of points of interest along the way. The road varies from very good, to 4WD required. We found the parking area but couldn't see the waterhole. After some scrambling over rocks and along the dry creek bed, we finally found the waterhole - well worth the effort. Mick even spotted a Yellow-footed rock wallaby.

On the way back home, we stopped to have a look at Ochre Wall. The variety of colours, although in the shade at this time of day, was stunning. There were rocks nearby that were almost purple too.

Later in the afternoon we went back down to the rock wallaby feeding area to see if any birds were attracted to the water there. I left MIck there for an hour or so, and went back to pick him up just in time to grab a beer from the bar, before joining others for the feeding,

Although there was still some wind, our second night was nothing like the first. In the morning we took our time to pack up and decided not to go and stay in the National Park campsites due to the lack of birdlife. Instead we would head for Wilpena Pound. 

Copley

 31 October 2021 - 2 November 2021

We decided on a couple of nights in the caravan park at Copley so we could get some chores done, and be available by phone for some family commitments. The caravan park has a cracker view of the Flinders Ranges and plenty of space as there were only a few people there.

We treated ourselves to dinner at the pub - Leigh Creek Hotel - just a short walk away. There was no chef on a Sunday night but we were told there was pizza available. Pizza is Mick's favourite so he was well pleased. We shared a supreme and it was pretty good - thin, crispy base, plenty of topping and not too much cheese.

On Monday Mick settled in to do some photo editing while I did some chores and started to research places to stay in the Flinders Ranges. The caravan park at Copley also boasts a bakery and cafe, so we decided to sample the pies for lunch. The number of vehicles pulling up out the front suggested we had made a good decision. We chose plain beef and they were very good - plenty of good mince and tasty gravy.

Aroona Dam is just a short drive from Leigh Creek

After lunch we drove down to Aroona Dam, just past Leigh Creek. The dam was built to supply water to the local mine, and then to the town. It's quite a nice spot with toilets and picnic tables. From there, we stopped in at Leigh Creek to pick up some groceries and then home to Copley.

The weather forecast for the next few days didn't look too good - rain and possible thunderstorms, so we agonised about where to go next. We both agreed that we wanted to go to Arkaroola and to also camp in the Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park. The National Park would be closing at the end of the week, for a week, for pest management activities so we decided that if we wanted to go, this would be our only chance.

On Tuesday morning we were still agonising over whether to look for accommodation or to go to Arkaroola and Arkaroola won out. We fuelled up and headed off on the road from Copley.

Strzelecki Track - Montecollina Bore

 30 - 31 October 2021

The road from the Dig Tree turn-off was sealed all the way to Innamincka. We detoured into the town and were pleasantly surprised at the great facilities available. There was ample parking near the store and pub, adjacent to new looking toilets and showers. We fueled up at the Trading Post store and bought a coffee.

Chatting to the staff we learned that the Strzelecki Track had been closed because of rain in the last few days, but had just reopened the night before. Great timing on our part. As well as a very good variety of groceries, frozen food, and camping and fishing gear, the store also has a book exchange. If you don't have one to swap a donation to the RFDS will get you one too.

We drove down to the Town Common to have a look and use the dump point. You can camp on the Common and, with toilets scattered about, some shady trees and the creek, it would be a good spot. We decided to stick to our plan though and head along the track.

A few kilometres out of Innaminka the bitumen ends and the unsealed road begins. The condition varied and there were a couple of stretches of bitumen along the way. Signage indicated each was about 7km in length.

We stopped for lunch at the Moomba Rest Area. There is a picnic shelter and rubbish bins, but no toilets. The information shelter gives an insight into the Moomba oil and gas industry. We couldn't fathom why Santos, the company making a huge fortune from the natural resources, couldn't provide a loo for the travelling public.

We drove on to Montecoĺlina Bore Rest Area which is about half way along the track. Again, there is plenty a space to camp and we chose a spot next to an old picnic shelter. There are lots of small dunes creating a sense of privacy - although it wasn't needed as we were the only ones there.

There was a bit of wind and a few flies, but nothing that would make our stay unpleasant. Lots of birds around kept Mick happy and occupied with the camera for most of the afternoon. As night fell, the temperature started to drop and reached 12.5 degrees by morning. We had hoped for some cooler weather after sweltering in over 40 degrees, and we sure did get it.

Despite the cold, it was a beautiful morning with a stunning sunrise - I could see it through the window by my bed. Breakfast in a sunny spot helped to warm us up. Mick went out again with the camera and found one of the dingoes we had heard calling.

We decided to stay until after lunch and the move further on down the Strzelecki Track to another camp-site at the Old Blanchwater Station Ruins.

We almost missed the turn-off to the ruins as it is really only visible coming from the west - we only found it when we turned around. Thank goodness for Wikicamps. After a bit of a look around we decided to give it a miss. Many reviewers rate the ruins more highly than the bore, but we preferred the solitude and unusual landscape of Montecolllina so we continued on towards Copley for our next stop.

The Dig Tree

 29 - 30 October 2021

We left Thargomindah after a pleasant morning which included a walk along the path by the Bulloo River. Heading further west we eventually found a rest area at the Innamincka turn-off where we stopped for lunch.

We then continued on towards Innamincka, taking the well-signposted turn-off to the Dig Tree. The road from Thargomindah was sealed all the way to the turn-off. From there it was 14 km of dirt. Because of recent rain, there was some water over the road in parts. We had planned on visiting some time ago on a trip we weren't able to make due to state border restrictions as a result of Covid19. It was good to be finally making our way to this famous spot.

The Dig Tree is the where the ill-fated Burke and Wills expedition finally came to an end. The remaining explorers who had tried to reach the Gulf of Carpentaria returned to this camp-site only to find that the party who had waited patiently for more than four months had left only hours before. With little food, and severely weakened, Burke and Wills died. Despite the tragedy this is a beautiful and peaceful spot.

There is an information shelter and toilets at the entrance to the reserve. From there it is a few hundred metres to the creek - Cooper Creek - and the famous tree. The signage tells the story of there actually being two "dig" trees. It is worth spending some time brushing up on this part of Australia's history.

There is ample space for camping so we chose a shady spot near the creek to set up our camp. The weather had significantly improved and we enjoyed the cool breeze through the afternoon. The only down side was the huge numbers of marauding ants! They crawled up our legs and had us seeking solutions to avoid them - with very limited success. Even dark time didn't deter them.

In the morning we decided to move on, with a stop in Innamincka before tackling the Strzelecki Track. We knew there was rain forecast for Tuesday and wanted to allow a couple of days to camp somewhere on the track.

Thargomindah

 28 - 29 October 2021

We left Cunnamulla after making the decision to book a cabin based on the weather forecast. We stopped at a couple of likely birdy spots on the way towards Eulo, including Paddabilla Bore. We had camped there with the kids about 15 years ago. It would be a nice spot of not for the heat and wind. We also stopped for a picnic lunch in Eulo at the little park adjacent to the Old Police Cells.

From there we drove further west and had a quick look at Lake Bindegolly before arriving in Thargomindah. We checked into the cabin and did some washing while the temperature hovered just above 40 degrees. I decided to walk the short distance to the shops for supplies and was warned by the staff about the approaching dust storm. As I made my way home, I could see what they were talking about. I have seen dust storms before but this was positively apocalyptic. Along with just about everyone else in the caravan park, we took photos as it approached, then retreated inside as it hit. It was quite an experience and we were very glad we weren't in the camper trailer.

The storm eventually passed and some overnight rain meant a fresh and clear morning. Again checking the weather, we decided to aim for the Dig Tree as our next overnight stop.

We didn't feel the need to get away too early so we took the opportunity to walk along the river adjacent to the caravan park. There is a well made walking path with some interpretive signage, as well as picnic tables and even recliners to relax in and admire the view.

We stocked up on a few essentials, and called into the Toyota dealer who was able to reset the offending warning light as well as sell us fuel. We the headed west towards the South Australian border.

Cunnamulla - Charlotte Plains

 25 - 28 October 2021

We went for a walk on the property before leaving Charleville, bound for Cunnamulla. We usually stay at Bowra Bird Sanctuary but it had closed for the season so we decided to give Charlotte Plains a try. Mick had spoken to some fellow bird photographers who recommended the Bore Camp so we booked 2 nights.

On our way south from Charleville we noticed a warning light had come on indicating a problem with the car's timing belt. Given that this particular item had (or should have) been replaced at the 150,000km service only 1000km ago, we were a little concerned. Once we arrived in Cunnamulla we headed to the local RACQ agent who, although unable to reset the warning, was able to reassure us that is was just a reminder that should have been reset at the service.

Happy that all was well with the car, we drove back to the park near the visitor centre for a picnic lunch. A quick look in the Visitor Information Centre and we were armed with some information about possible places to stay on our way west, we then headed east towards St George, before turning off for Charlotte Plains Station.

We made our way to the homestead where we checked in and chatted to owner Robyn, before driving back the way we had come to the Bore Head Camp ground. This open area is situated along the bore drain, with some shady trees, flushing toilets, hot showers and baths for soaking in the artesian water. Although rustic and basic, the amenities were clean and there was plenty of room to find a good spot in the campground.

Of course Mick spent much of the time trying to photograph the abundant birdlife. Fortunately the weather had improved and it was not as hot as the previous few days. A cool breeze contributed to a very pleasant afternoon.

The temperature dropped considerably overnight and the cool breeze made for a beautiful morning. We decided to sample the delights of an artesian bath mid-morning. Lying in the warm water watching and listening to the birds was a perfect way to relax.

We spent the rest of the day chasing the shade and doing what we enjoy - reading for me and photographing birds for Mick. There were other friendly birders here so lots of opportunity to compare notes. During the afternoon we decided on an extra night, giving us three here. We knew the forecast was for another really hot day after a couple of milder ones, but it would be the same no matter where we stayed.

A bird, the bush and a bore drain - how much better can it get?

Tuesday night wasn't as cool as Monday had been, but the temperature did still drop during the might. On Wednesday morning, Mick rose early to go down to a now favourite spot, and once again we luxuriated in a bore bath before smoko. The temperature continued to work it's way towards 40° and we really struggled in the heat. We found a bore bath in the shade during the afternoon. Filling it while the water was still relatively cool made it a pleasant soak and a relief from the heat.

The temperature kept rising through the afternoon making it very difficult to do anything except follow the shade. After dinner, when the bugs were out in force we soaked in a tub and marvelled at the stars and satellites above us. Thursday morning was shaping up to be another hot one, and with no internet access we were unable to check the forecast. We packed up in a leisurely fashion and made our way into Cunnamulla. We filled a gas bottle and then headed to the bakery cafe where we checked our messages and the all important weather forecast.

As much as we would have liked to visit a few camping spots as we made our way towards Thargomindah, the promise of 40 degrees and thunderstorms had us making the decision that it would be another cabin night.

Charleville

 23 - 25 October 2021

After looking around Barcaldine, we set off towards Charleville. We stopped for morning tea in Blackall, and at a couple of rest areas for a stretch. The forecast was once again high 30's and it was about 39° when we stopped for lunch in Augathella.

We drove through town to a lovely spot by the (dry) river where you can also camp. It was a great spot for lunch despite the hot wind. We will keep it in mind as a possible camping spot in the future - nice clean toilet block, picnic shelters and lots of birds, and just a short walk to the pub. You can't get much better than that.

We had decided on a couple of extra nights in a cottage in Charleville where we had stayed once before and had booked in advance. As much as we love camping, it's not much fun when the temperature rises and the nights don't bring any relief. Our cottage at the Charleville Bush Caravan Park would have to be one of the best resourced we have ever stayed in. It has its own yard and everything needed for a very comfortable stay.

The view from our cottage at Charleville

After settling in, Mick spent a good bit of time wandering around looking for birds to photograph, while I settled into the air conditioning with a good book.

There was some rusty old junk to ponder

There were flowers to enjoy

On Sunday we spent a quiet morning at "home" with Mick wandering with the camera for most of the time. In the afternoon we visited the Charleville Cosmos Centre. It was necessary to book ahead, which we did online. The Cosmos Centre is one tourist attraction that I had always wanted to visit but we opted just to go along for the free "Astronomy by Day" self guided tour. Unfortunately we were rather disappointed for a number of reasons.

On entry, our booking was not checked and we were just directed in to wander around. The displays were interesting but the audio on a couple of the videos was so bad that we could not understand what was being said. The "Outback Stargazing Theatre" featured NASA videos (again with dreadful audio) that didn't seem to have anything to do with the Australian outback.

The absence of Australian content on the interactive map of the world showing how ancient civilizations viewed the solar system was astounding. We also found it unusual that there was nothing in the self-guided tour to encourage participation in the other tours available.

The late afternoon was again very hot but Mick still managed to go out walking with the camera. We also decided on, and booked, our next stop at Charlotte Plains near Cunnamulla.

There is always kangaroos around

Striated Pardalote

On Monday morning we tidied and packed the car ready for the journey further south, and hopefully better weather.