Tanunda - Barossa Valley - South Australia

26 - 29 September 2014

Before heading off to the Barossa Valley we decided on another short visit to Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens in Port Augusta. It was only a short distance out of the way and Mick was keen to try again for a photograph of the chirruping wedgebill, but it was not to be. This little creature wasn't anywhere to be found - this time we couldn't even hear it calling so it was off to the cafe for a coffee before we hit the road again.

We travelled down the coast towards Port Pirie, then turned inland and lunch at Crystal Brook. We then drove on to Clare and then into the Barossa Valley. Our accommodation is at "Goat Square Cottages". Our cottage is called "Menge" after Johannes Menge who was the official government geologist in the 1830's. The attached cottages were built in the 1840's in what was then the main town square. They come complete with stone walls and low doorways - but all the modern comforts (spa bath, reverse cycle air-conditioning etc). The cottage gardens even has an array of herbs growing just outside the back door.

Our first full day was what might be described as a gourmet's delight. We started with a visit the Barossa Farmers' Market to buy supplies for dinner - smoked fish, cheese, quince paste and fudge.

The very busy Barossa Farmers' Market - popular for many good reasons

Fudge Dealer

After delivering our goodies to the fridge at home we headed out again to Maggie Beer's Pheasant Farm for lunch. The menu consists mainly of small "picnic baskets" which contain pate, bread, freekah salad and other yummy things. The menu even suggests the appropriate local wine to pair with your meal - which we didn't. We browsed the farm shop and tasted many of Maggie's lovely products and took the nature walk and farm walk before heading for home.

The pond at Maggie's farm

Later in the afternoon we made a visit to Peter Lehmann wines. I had done some serious research and decided that they had the best selection of the kind of wines I like to drink, at the best prices - and the tasting proved that their wines are also seriously nice!

We had been keeping a close watch on the weather forecast throughout our holiday and were aware that Sunday would not be a good day weather-wise and we were not wrong. It had been windy overnight and the early morning weather reports indicated a very hot and windy day ahead. Not to be deterred we headed off after breakfast to Lyndoch to Altona Scrub, where there are a number  of walking trails. When we arrived we noticed the "Closed Today" sign over the entrance. The noticeboard stated that the walks would be closed on days of extreme fire danger - and we guessed that we had chosen one such day for our walk. We later learned there was a severe weather warning for damaging winds, across most of the state and gusts were recorded up to 95kph. Oh well, we drove the short distance into the town centre for coffee, and to consider our options. We figured that if this walk was closed, others would be too. After coffee and cake we stopped in at an art gallery and met the owner, photographer Peter Franz Brunnbauer. He and Mick chatted at length about cameras and photography and he even gave Mick a couple of tips. From there we walked across the road to the craft shop and again were met by a very friendly local who suggested some places to visit on a day when outdoor pursuits were not recommended.

We drove back to Tanunda and then on to Angaston - a very nice "Sunday drive" through gently rolling hills adorned with grape vines and dotted with wineries. Than we drove back to Seppeltsfield and the winery to visit the "Jam Factory" an artisans' workshop and gallery. There were some really beautiful pieces of work - from jewellery to glassware, indigenous art and hand made Japanese style knives. This gallery is well worth a look. We also made a stop at Peter Lehmann again to try to spot a bird we saw yesterday, when Mick didn't have his camera, but alas it was nowhere to be found.

Our last day in the Barossa before we headed into Adelaide. We decided to try again for the walk we missed on Sunday and this time, with the milder and less windy weather, the Altona Scrub trail was open. The trail is in three sections and you can do any combination that suits you, and the time you have available. We completed two and a bit, a total of about 5 kms. The trail is very well made, and the brochure we had picked up in Tanunda had accurate maps of the circuits as well as an informative commentary. The track has some gentle slopes and a few steps, but nothing difficult at all. There are a number of seats placed strategically for resting and taking in the views. There are also a couple of "side tracks" - one with a view to the (small) gorge on the North Para River, and one to a wetland that showed no signs of dampness at all. We were glad that we came back as this was a very pleasant way to spend the morning.

Quorn - South Australia

24 - 26 September 2014

After lunch at the pub in Hawker - which we would recommend - we drove on the 60 km to Quorn and Endilloe Lodge which was to be our home for two nights. This "cottage" is a three bedroom house with an orchard, creek bed and more fantastic views.

The massive living area of the "cottage".

A visit to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens in Port Augusta was next on the agenda so we left fairly early for the 40 minute drive, arriving just after 9.00am. Stopped for coffee in the visitor centre while we decided which of the walks we would tackle first.

We chose the 4.5km Red Cliff Walk. My map reading skills are obviously appalling and I had us completely bamboozled within the first fifteen minutes. Thankfully Mick was able to decipher the map - which was actually very easy to read - and we enjoyed a leisurely stroll around the grounds. This walk is very easy, but water and hats were essential. Even though the morning started out quite overcast, the sun emerged and it became a beautiful, and quite warm, day.

View of the gulf from Red Cliff Walk

Red Cliff Walk

There were plenty of wildflowers in bloom, and birds around. Bird hides, seats and interpretive information are provided.

We had lunch in the cafe, choosing from an interesting, well priced menu with lots of local flavours. Then it was back out onto the walks. We criss-crossed around the various paths trying to find the best spots to photograph birds, and generally enjoying the beautiful weather.

Mulga Parrot

This was a full-day excursion and we didn't leave until after 3.00pm. We will certainly be back here again one day.

This is another great spot to find some interesting birds. Singing Honeyeaters and Red Wattle Birds are plentiful and I saw a couple of Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters as well. Out on the salt bush plain, White-winged Fairy Wrens were frequently encountered. One of the highlights for me was the Black-eared Cuckoo I spotted on arrival. It was the first of two (possibly three) 'lifers' for this great place. The other was this Mulga Parrot that ate wattle seeds happily, unconcerned by the clicking of my camera only a few metres away.

The other possible lifer is the Chirruping Wedgebill we were able to see but not photograph. I can't remember if I've seen this bird before. A fellow visitor was nice enough to point out the hiding place of a Boobook Owl. It was quite high in a Gum tree but I managed a reasonable photo. 

We returned the next day to have another crack at the Chirruping Wedgebill but dipped. We did manage to see a couple of goannas flat out like themselves drinking.

Gould's Goanna at the Visitor Centre

Southern Boobook Owl

Wilpena Pound - Flinders Ranges - South Australia

22 - 24 September 2014

We started early in Clare with a yummy - and fairly cheap - breakfast at the bakery and a few photos at the park and then headed off towards the Flinders Ranges. We made the usual stops - at Quorn and Hawker - and arrived at Wilpena Pound Resort in the early afternoon. Our last - and only other - visit to this part of the country was in 1991, when we camped and lived out of the back of a Landcruiser ute. We were doing it in a bit more comfort this time.

Musk Lorikeet at Clare

These Emus were wandering past our accommodation at Wilpena Pound Resort

Grass Tree

Because rain was forecast for the next day we decided to make a start and go for a walk after a cup of tea. We opted for the "Hills Homestead" walk which was described ass  6.6km return walk - and we found it was as described. A well made path, with only a short uneven uphill section. We also made the extra 600m return trek up to the lower "Wangarra Lookout". The upper lookout was out of our reach because of dodgy knees, and unfit bodies. The view from the lower lookout was still awesome. This part of the country is beautiful and we both took lots of photos along the way.

Dinner at the bistro was reasonably priced, nothing fancy, but tasty. The  night was quite cool but nothing like we had experienced over the previous few days. We awoke to bright sunshine, despite the forecast of rain. We checked, and rain was still predicted, but not until evening, and cloud from about lunchtime.

We checked in at the Visitor Centre and picked up a map. On the recommendation of the young man there we decided to head to Brachina Gorge. We had camped there on our our last visit here. This time though we were driving a Toyota Corolla (a hire car) so weren't so confident of getting all the way through to the gorge - and we were right.

The unsealed road from the Wilpena - Blinman road was a fairly easy drive, with some fabulous views along the way, but alas we came to a creek crossing with a huge puddle and water flowing over the causeway so we couldn't go any further. (Well maybe we could have, but we weren't prepared to take the risk). We drove a short way back up the road to park the car and walked back down for a look around.

After that stop we drove on to Blinman which is where the bitumen ends. This is a busy little town, with a pub, a shop/cafe and a few other businesses. There was even an art exhibition in the Blinman Community Hall - part of the "Flinders Ranges - A Brush with Art" festival. We went in to have a look after the obligatory stop for coffee. There are some talented artists in these parts.

Shingleback Lizards are frequently seen on the road, dead and alive

Emus were a common sight on the drive. Males incubate the eggs and raise the chicks.

 We returned to Wilpena Pound - having made a couple of stops to take photos - in time for lunch. By this time there were a few clouds in the sky, but nothing serious looking.

View of Wilpena Pound from Hucks Lookout

Lots of wildflowers around in spring

Red-capped Robin with tasty grub in its beak for its young

After lunch we headed out on the "Boom and Bust" walk (also known as "Droughtbusters Hike") - about 1.5km, described as moderate. This is a loop walk and has a steady, but manageable, uphill climb to a great vantage point. The track is rocky and uneven - and I wished I had brought my hiking boots rather than my joggers. We were in sensory overload with spectacular views, including gathering storm clouds, abundant wildflowers and interesting rock formations. Although there weren't a lot of birds waiting to have their photo taken, this little robin happily obliged. We headed home as the clouds started to close in - looks like we had picked the best time of day for our excursion.






Overnight there was lots of rain, as well as thunder and lightning, but the morning broke clear and cool. Our last morning at Wilpena Pound so we decided to head to "Wood Duck Pond" just up the road a bit. We only stopped for a very short while, then turned back towards Quorn. On the way we stopped to do the "Arkaroo Rock Hike". This was accurately described as "moderate". The gentle climb took us up about 500m and afforded another spectacular Flinders Ranges vista. Everywhere you turn there is a "picture postcard" view.

The vegetation reminded us of a beautiful native garden. The Adnyamathanha rock paintings feature ochre and charcoal images depicting the creation story of Wilpena Pound. Out of respect for the traditional owners of this land, we have chosen not to include photographs of the art site. This is one walk that is a definite must do when visiting the area - it's only 3 km long and 2 km off the main road. The views are stunning, the flora magnificent at this time of year and lots of creatures to see - and maybe photograph. We were both very glad we had made this short detour.

One of the spectacular views on the Arkaroo walk

Australian Ring Neck Parrot. Quite common around the Flinders Ranges.

Variegated fairywren

White-winged fairywren

Clare - South Australia

21 - 22 September 2014

We arrived in Clare in the early afternoon after a long drive. This is just an overnight stop so we are just staying in a motel. We headed out for a walk through town to get our bearings and find somewhere to have dinner. To my great delight I discovered we were staying right next door to Knappstein Winery and Cellar Door! How convenient. On our way back from our walk I felt I should sample the local drop and decided on a very nice Pinot Gris.

It should have been easy to take a good shot of this musk lorikeet as the light was good and the birds were low down in an open tree, but try as I might, I could not get a whole bird both focused and fully in the frame. This is the best I could do. Unfortunately I haven't had any other opportunities since this one.

Little Desert - Victoria

18 - 21 September 2014

We headed off early in the morning and joined the queue to cross the Murray River punt. This operates 24 hours per day and is free – it's the only way to cross the river at Wellington. We headed to Tailem Bend and stopped at the Visitor Information Centre. The friendly folk there provided maps and a friendly chat. Coffee and a pie to warm us up then on the road (Dukes Highway) again. We drove through a number of small towns, and stopped to visit some op shops. We stopped for lunch (and op shopping) in Bordertown before crossing the border into Victoria. Groceries at Nhill then we turned off to the Little Desert National Park and our final destination – Little Desert Nature Lodge. The property is adjacent to the national park and has access to a number of the walking tracks. Mick headed off with the camera once we were settled.

Dinner was provided – ready in our fridge to warm up in the microwave in the communal kitchen. There is also a communal lounge room with dining tables, lounges and a TV – and a reverse cycle air conditioner. We settled in to eat dinner, watch TV and keep warm. The air con in our room kept us snuggly warm through the night. We awoke to the local weather report that sounded more like a soccer score – Nhill – 1. Despite the cold, it looked like a beautiful sunny day outside. There were kangaroos grazing on the lawn in this really tranquil setting.

Kangaroos and an Emu were never far away. The cold morning proved too much for this Joey.

 We headed off into the National Park for the “Lodge Loop” walk, and although Mick didn't get many bird photos it was a very pleasant 2.1km stroll. Mostly flat, sandy path with some gentle uphill sections over what we presume are old sand dunes. This part of the country is so different from what we are used to. 

Painted Lady Butterfly

After morning tea and a chat with some of the lodge staff we headed down to the newly erected bird hide in the corner of the property, and while the birding wasn't as good as we had hoped (we were there in the middle of the day) it certainly did show promise. The little artificial pond was bound to attract wildlife at some stage. While we were there we did spot a shingle back lizard wandering past where I was sitting.

Shingleback Lizard at the bird hide

The Lodge in the distance from Whimpy's Pool

We returned to the lodge for lunch, then Mick set off for what turned out to be a marathon effort with the camera. He spent a good few hours back down at the hide and was duly rewarded with some good shots.

Yellow-faced honeyeater

Eastern rosella

A great variety of honeyeaters and other birds came in to drink at the pond through the afternoon. Those responsible for the pond had been very clever and thoughtful, placing some dried branches around the water for birds to perch on.

Spiny-cheeked honeyeater

New Holland Honeyeaters were very common at the hide

White-naped Honeyeater

White-plumed Honeyeater

Male Superb Fairy-wren

We sensed it was very cold again overnight, but remained warm with the aircon on in our room. We headed down to the bird hide early but there were very few birds waiting to be photographed - we could hear them and see them fleetingly, but non stopped long enough. We walked back to the lodge for morning tea. We had been told the location of a Tawny Frogmouth - which sits quietly in a tree just waiting for a keen photographer to come along. We drove in to Nhill to buy some supplies and have a look at the wetland we had spied on our way in. Unfortunately the boardwalk was closed - a big disappointment as it looked like it would have been a really nice walk with the chance of seeing a few birds.

Back to the lodge for lunch and then out on the part of the Nature Walk that we hadn't been on. This took us towards the back of the property and past a pond and the Mallee Fowl Aviary. The aviary is huge so there was little chance of spotting this shy creature. 

Later in the afternoon Mick headed back to the hide on his own and again stayed quite a while hoping to get some good photos. We realised late in the afternoon that we were the only guests - we had the whole place to ourselves so settled in to the comfy lounge to watch some TV without interruption. 

Probably a Southern Brown Bandicoot (I'm no expert) at the hide.

An early start in the morning and back into South Australia to Clare. We tried not to make it our usual leisurely drive because it was so far to go - but we still made a few stops - at Keith for coffee, Murray Bridge for petrol, a toilet stop in Gawler and picnic lunch in Tarlee. We arrived in Clare early afternoon.

The landscape is brightened by vivid fields of Canola but native flora and fauna have suffered

Wellington - South Australia

17 - 18 September 2014

We have travelled further afield for this trip - all the way to South Australia. The plan had been to come to Adelaide for a conference, then we decided we might as well make the most of it and have a holiday as well, so we added an extra two weeks to the itinerary.

Getting up at 4am is not my idea of a good start to a holiday, but that is what we needed to do to get the 5.55am flight from Townsville to Adelaide via Brisbane. Lucky we live only 10 minutes from the airport or we'd have had to be up even earlier. We had a smooth run with both flights on time, and arrived in Adelaide at 10.45. 

It didn't take long to collect our bags and hire car and hit the road. We headed out of town for lunch and supplies. It was a nice drive through hills and farmland - 110 on the freeway, in pouring rain, overtaking trucks as the road wound around, in a car I had never driven before. We watched the outside temperature vary from 11 to 18 degrees and we were treated to smorgasbord of weather - bright sunshine, howling wind, clouds, drizzle and full-on rain. We noticed that a number of wine regions were tantalisingly close but I managed to resist the temptation and stay focused on today's destination - but we will visit wine regions later in the trip. 

After lunch and shopping in Murray Bridge we drove on the short distance to Wellington. Once again the Crazy Woman (GPS) did her best to get us lost but we outsmarted her by following the road signs. She seemed to have become confused about which was right and which was left! 

We arrived in Wellington (population 180) and checked into a riverfront cabin attached to the pub, where we could watch the punt crossing the river bringing traffic across from Tailem Bend. I had filled the jug for a cup of tea before I noticed the sign near the tap "untreated water - do not drink", so emptied it out, then seeing the horrible discoloured water which had come from the tap. There was, thankfully, a large container of rain water provided in the fridge. From our "outback" travels, we are used to having to boil water before drinking, but this was really something. The smell when the shower was turned on was quite awful.

Black Swans fly past

Pelican resting on the boat landing in front of the cabin

Purple Swamp-hen stepping out

We had a really nice, and reasonably priced dinner at the pub and learned that a "schooner" of beer in South Australia is what we call a "pot" or a "ten" (ounce) in Queensland and a "middy" in New South Wales. Beer drinkers beware - you may not get what you intended.

The morning dawned grey, with rain clouds approaching in the distance. A flotilla of Pelicans patrolled the calm, leaden Murray River only metres from where we sat warmly sipping coffee.

Car ferry at Wellington

A very popular place for Pelicans

• Great views of Murray River
• Generously sized, reasonably priced cabins
• Better than average pub grub