Nelson

16 – 17 November 2024

We left Mount Compass a bit concerned about the weather forecast – the wind was strong and it was going to get even stronger. We drove towards Wellington where we crossed the Murray River again on another ferry. From there we continued on to Meningie where we stopped briefly but it was too early for lunch so we kept going. We planned to stop for lunch somewhere on the Coorong and found a rest area that looked ok. The wind was blowing hard when we made our way to the picnic table but it was the hordes of flies that had us retreating to eat in the car.

We crossed the Murray River on one of many car ferries

We drove on to Kingston SE (there is another Kingston in South Australia – Kingston-on-the-Murray) where we stopped to make a plan. We calculated that we had plenty of time to get to Nelson at a reasonable hour, but that we would try to get a cabin for a couple of nights to be out of the wind that was forecast. We checked online and couldn’t see anything available so called the caravan park which didn’t have an online booking system. I was told that there were no cabins available until later in the week, so went ahead and booked a powered site for one night hoping we could find something for the following night.

We stopped at Mount Gambier before crossing the border into Victoria, and another change of time zone. It was a long day in the car, but we don’t do it often, and it was a really hot day so it was the best option for us.

When we arrived at the caravan park we were surprised to see that there were hardly any other people there and only one cabin seemed to be occupied. I’m not sure why we were told they were fully booked. Because it was only an overnighter, and there was no rain forecast we stayed hitched up and didn’t bother with the awning so we could get away early if we wanted to.

There was lots of bush around and Mick went exploring with the camera. Unfortunately during the night and through the early morning, it rained quite a bit but there was some sunshine to allow the canvas to dry out sufficiently before we needed to pack up. We checked our options and booked a cabin in Portland where we were able to have the camper trailer nearby and could also check in early.

We left Nelson and stopped in Portland for some groceries, then checked into the caravan park.

Gluepot Reserve – Sitella Campground and Bellbird Campground

10 – 14 November 2024

We left Loxton and stopped in Waikerie to get groceries, and then drove down to the park for lunch by the river. Waikerie is a good place to stop before going on to Gluepot because of the facilities, easy parking and proximity to our final destination. After lunch we crossed the Murray River on one of the many ferries and continued on to the access road. A visit to Gluepot takes you through some private property before entering the reserve. This time, the roads were in fairly good condition and we made good time getting to the visitor centre where we checked in.

We nearly always end up adding a couple of days to our stay at Gluepot so this time we booked in for four nights at Sitella Campground. There are three campgrounds and we have stayed at all of them – each a little different but all fabulous. We found a nice spot, in the almost empty campground.

As always, Gluepot was all about the birds and Mick spent most mornings and afternoons out at one or other of the bird hides. Because of the size of the reserve and the distance to some of the bird hides and walks from Sitella we decided to spend two nights there, then move on to Bellbird for two nights. This would allow easy access to most of the best spots without too many long drives.

We moved campgrounds and set up at Bellbird, and again the campground was almost empty. The layouts of the campgrounds allow for a degree of privacy and accommodate caravans, camper trailers and tents. Most people who visit Gluepot are birders or other naturalists. It’s too far out of the way for people who are just looking for a cheap place to camp and the total ban on fires and dogs at all times also puts many off. We find this a bonus as we prefer the peace and solitude. Mick did meet a few other birders and lots of useful information was shared.

While we were at Bellbird campground we went out early one morning to the Malleefowl walk. This is an easy walk up and over vegetated sand dunes. There’s lots of good birding but we didn’t see one of these elusive megapodes this time. Last time we did the walk we did manage to catch a fleeting glimpse of one as it crossed the track, so we know they are there.

We watched a storm approach one afternoon

On our final morning we rose early and packed up to get to one of Mick’s favourite hides before the sun was too high in the sky. He wasn’t the only one with that idea, but there was still  room for him and his camera gear. While he photographed birds I made us a cuppa. Before leaving the reserve we drove back to the visitor centre where we purchased t-shirts for ourselves, with the promise we would never wear them at the same time.

From Gluepot we headed towards Adelaide on our way to Mount Compass.

Loxton

9 – 10 November 2024

We drove through the mallee and farmlands, stopping at a rest area near Lake Cullulleraine to have some lunch. We continued on across the border into South Australia, adjusting to another new time zone.

Many of the towns and campgrounds along the Murray River are still recovering for the flooding that occurred a couple of years ago and the caravan park at Loxton was no exception. Because we were only staying overnight, and because we needed to charge up batteries before heading into Gluepot, we opted for a powered site where we were able to stay hooked up.

There are heaps of spots to camp on the Murray River

We went for a walk down to the river and saw that a spot down in the lower section would be a good place to be, once all the infrastructure is restored. We planned to stop in Waikerie on our way to Gluepot to pick up supplies, so made a reasonably early start from Loxton in the morning.

 

Barham

 25 - 27 March 2022

After a very successful trip to Deniliquin we had no firm plan about where we would stop next. Instead I had identified a number of potential spots along the Murray River which we would have a look at and make up our minds once we found one that would suit us. We set the GPS for Swan Hill and made Barham our first stop.

Barham, is a smallish town, with a supermarket, pubs, cafes and a club all within walking distance of the caravan park right on the river. We decided this would suit us nicely for a couple of nights, with a powered site so Mick could edit the thousand or so photos he had taken while on the bird tour in Deniliquin. We went for a wander around the park and noticed some much sought-after riverfront spots, and a large unpowered section, also near the river. Later in the day we walked along the riverside path, before having dinner at the club. 

We took the opportunity to do some shopping and washing while at Barham, and went for another walk along the river - this time across the bridge and into Victoria. We have crossed the Murray River a number of times on this trip, by road and ferry, but this was the first time we had done it on foot.

While we were camped at Barham, we spent some time planning the next part of our journey and booked three nights at Hattah-Kulkyne National Park. Leaving Barham on Sunday morning with a destination organised allowed a relaxed morning. 

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Mildura

1 – 4 September 2018

We faced another big drive, but broke it up with a lunch stop at Birdcage Reserve Rest Area, near Darlingon Point, complete with toilets and picnic tables. From there we drove through Hay, and stopped at The Junction Rest Area where we ate our remaining fruit before entering the Fruit Fly Exclusion Zone which protects the Riverland from the dreaded Queensland Fruit Fly. In all seriousness, an infestation can destroy an industry so all travellers should be aware of, respect and comply with, quarantine arrangements.

We decided to book an ensuite site in Mildura, so did that online along the way, scoring a “3 night special” price. It’s nice to have a little luxury, especially in the colder weather. We arrived late in the afternoon and set up our camp before going down for a short walk along the river.

Our walk to the river.

On Sunday morning we set off for the markets in Red Cliffs, about 25 minutes away. These markets are held each month and spread all around the park, and two main shopping streets. There were fruit and vegetables, preserves, local olives, oils and lots of crafty things. On the way back to our temporary home we stopped to purchase a new GPS. The “crazy woman” had finally succumbed to what we thought of as a type of dementia (started off bright then faded very quickly each day) and we had needed to resort to old fashioned paper maps and the gps directions on the phone. We found a very nice salesperson who didn’t try to upsell us to the latest model with features we didn’t need or want, and so we came away with the “bright young thing”. We hoped she would live up to her name.

After lunch we headed off for a walk at Kings Billabong, a popular spot with lots of walking tracks and a bird hide on the water. We were a bit disappointed as there wasn’t much birdlife around, and the quickly dropping temperature of the late afternoon had us heading home. This is a very nice spot, but spoiled somewhat by the number of younger drivers speeding along the tracks with little regard for other visitors.

On Monday morning we set off for another birdwatching spot – Etiwanda Wetlands. This is quite close to town and is a series of ponds which captures, cleans and stabilises stormwater and road runoff. The well signposted walking tracks meander around the ponds and made for a very pleasant morning walk. From there it was into town for morning tea and then some shopping. After lunch back at camp, we set off back into town to buy some more warm clothes – night time temperatures hovering in the low single digits were proving a challenge. We then drove down to the riverfront park, and went for a very long walk back towards Lock 11. There are lots of picnic spots and a couple of cafes in the very well maintained parklands.

'Cirrosis of the river' Not sure about the spelling but a good name for a boat.

Lock 11. The last time we were here it was on a paddle steamer.

After another very cold night, we packed up and set off to cross the border into South Australia.

Echuca

8 - 9 March 2015

We drove on to Yarrawonga and had lunch by Lake Mulwala - a very popular spot - then headed for our next destination, Barmah National Park, right on the Murray River border. Unfortunately it is not well signposted, and seems to go by a number of different names,  and we had to use our instincts to get us there. On arrival in the park, there was no obvious park information, and although we knew you could camp there, there was no information available (that we could see). 

We drove down to a camping area and had a look around, but decided not to stay. The area was huge and quite crowded - a legacy of the long weekend - and was serviced by only two long drop toilets, without toilet paper or water. I guess you get what you pay for. With the number of people, and noisy water craft there was little chance of any birdwatching so we decided to drive on through the park to the next town. What a silly thing to do! The crazy woman (my GPS) indicated this would take 2 hours, but we pressed on regardless. After a while of seemingly getting nowhere, we stopped and asked a chap at another (smaller) camping spot. Local, fortunately, he informed us the road through to our alternate destination had been closed, so back to Barmah we went. Perhaps some park signage, or printed maps such as are available at other National Parks, would have been helpful.

We pressed on through Barmah, heading for Moama/Echuca - another big mistake. Echuca - Moama are twin towns right on the Murray River - Moama in NSW and Echuca in Victoria. Because of the long weekend, all the caravan parks were full. We tried a couple of motels and eventually a very obliging lady at one called the local booking service and found us a room in Echuca. She even phoned through to the motel for us to secure the room. By this time we were exhausted and really appreciated the service.

The Settlement Motor Inn turned out to be clean and comfortable, if a little noisy. Right next door is a very well maintained laundromat so I took advantage and did a load of washing before making a late start on Monday morning, headed for a return visit to Little Desert Nature Lodge, near Nhill.

Wellington - South Australia

17 - 18 September 2014

We have travelled further afield for this trip - all the way to South Australia. The plan had been to come to Adelaide for a conference, then we decided we might as well make the most of it and have a holiday as well, so we added an extra two weeks to the itinerary.

Getting up at 4am is not my idea of a good start to a holiday, but that is what we needed to do to get the 5.55am flight from Townsville to Adelaide via Brisbane. Lucky we live only 10 minutes from the airport or we'd have had to be up even earlier. We had a smooth run with both flights on time, and arrived in Adelaide at 10.45. 

It didn't take long to collect our bags and hire car and hit the road. We headed out of town for lunch and supplies. It was a nice drive through hills and farmland - 110 on the freeway, in pouring rain, overtaking trucks as the road wound around, in a car I had never driven before. We watched the outside temperature vary from 11 to 18 degrees and we were treated to smorgasbord of weather - bright sunshine, howling wind, clouds, drizzle and full-on rain. We noticed that a number of wine regions were tantalisingly close but I managed to resist the temptation and stay focused on today's destination - but we will visit wine regions later in the trip. 

After lunch and shopping in Murray Bridge we drove on the short distance to Wellington. Once again the Crazy Woman (GPS) did her best to get us lost but we outsmarted her by following the road signs. She seemed to have become confused about which was right and which was left! 

We arrived in Wellington (population 180) and checked into a riverfront cabin attached to the pub, where we could watch the punt crossing the river bringing traffic across from Tailem Bend. I had filled the jug for a cup of tea before I noticed the sign near the tap "untreated water - do not drink", so emptied it out, then seeing the horrible discoloured water which had come from the tap. There was, thankfully, a large container of rain water provided in the fridge. From our "outback" travels, we are used to having to boil water before drinking, but this was really something. The smell when the shower was turned on was quite awful.

Black Swans fly past

Pelican resting on the boat landing in front of the cabin

Purple Swamp-hen stepping out

We had a really nice, and reasonably priced dinner at the pub and learned that a "schooner" of beer in South Australia is what we call a "pot" or a "ten" (ounce) in Queensland and a "middy" in New South Wales. Beer drinkers beware - you may not get what you intended.

The morning dawned grey, with rain clouds approaching in the distance. A flotilla of Pelicans patrolled the calm, leaden Murray River only metres from where we sat warmly sipping coffee.

Car ferry at Wellington

A very popular place for Pelicans

• Great views of Murray River
• Generously sized, reasonably priced cabins
• Better than average pub grub