Mount Compass

23 – 28 November 2022

We left Port Augusta and made our first stop at Crystal Brook for morning tea in the park. We wandered around the friendly town and had a look in some of the shops, including a community run antiques and collectables shop. We had stopped in Crystal Brook for coffee or lunch a few times but have never stayed overnight and keep saying that is something we must do. Maybe next time.

We continued on and had lunch in the park at Port Wakefield then set off to drive through Adelaide and on to Mount Compass in the Lower Mount Lofty Ranges on the Fleurieu Peninsula. We had arranged to have a couple of nights there with friends Judy and John.

We had never been to Mount Compass before but picked it for its proximity to Cox Scrub, a favourite birding spot. We were pleasantly surprised to find a well laid out caravan park, with lush green grass on the spacious sites. It had a very nice friendly feel about it and was a great place to stay.

We spent the evenings with Judy and John and went out in the mornings to take photos of birds. After 2 nights we all decided to stay an extra night and go for lunch at the pub the next day. The Mount Compass Hotel has a surprisingly large menu – something we haven’t seen for a while – and we all enjoyed a delicious lunch.

Judy and John left to continue their travels after 3 nights at Mount Compass and we ended up staying an extra two nights. The small town had everything we needed – supermarket, op shop, bottle shop and hardware, as well as a gift shop and antique shop.

Each morning we set off early on the 20 minute drive to Cox Scrub. Mick had learned of this place from a local birder he had met at Laratinga Wetlands a couple of years before and it has become a favourite for its reliable puddles of water which attract honeyeaters and parrots. We were first to arrive each morning, with locals coming a little later. We were fortunate that the rain that fell on a couple of days didn’t start until late in the morning so it didn’t interfere with his activities.

From Mount Compass we had a long drive across the border into Victoria to stay in a cottage near Patchewollock.

Port Augusta

21 – 23 November 2022

After our two nights in a cabin in Ceduna we headed eastward off across the top of the Eyre Peninsula with no firm destination in sight. As we drove we checked the weather forecasts and decided that we would probably return to Port Augusta, which is becoming one of our regular stops.

We had lunch in the park at Minnipa and arrived at Port Augusta mid-afternoon. We booked into an ensuite site at the caravan park we always stay at and were pleased that it wasn’t too crowded. It was still quite windy but manageable, and forecast to be lighter overnight and into the next few days.

As always we went to Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens for a walk amongst the beautiful and varied vegetation, and to look for birds to photograph. The gardens look like they have a had a lot of work carried out lately, but the birdlife wasn’t as abundant as usual.

Later in the day we went into town to do some shopping, picking up supplies for the next few days. We have always found Port Augusta to be a good base to restock and the caravan park we choose is very well looked after and has all the required amenities. Being close to the Arid Lands Gardens has made it almost a compulsory stop for us.

We had been in contact with friends who were also travelling through South Australia and arranged to meet them in Mount Compass, so that was where we headed when we left Port Augusta.

Ceduna

19 – 21 November 2022

We had decided on two overnight stops along the Nullarbor so that Mick could again go looking for some local birds at Nullarbor Roadhouse. We calculated our arrival time, taking into consideration another timezone change and it looked like we would arrive mid-afternoon which would allow some birding in the afternoon and again in the morning.

We stopped for fuel at Mundrabilla and then coffee at Eucla where we checked the weather forecast for Nullarbor and our hearts sank – there were gale warnings for much of the Nullarbor and South Australia. We had to consider our options and came to the conclusion that we would have to get a cabin or room as there is no way we could set up the trailer in winds in excess 40km/h (with gusts expected at 80km/h).

We tried to call ahead to Ceduna without success so continued on to Nullarbor Roadhouse. The wind was behind us which made for fantastic fuel economy but it was so strong it was almost impossible to get out of the car. Mick grabbed some bread, butter and promite which he made into sandwiches in the car, while I booked us a cabin in Ceduna.

We knew we wouldn’t arrive in Ceduna until late so I emailed the caravan park to let them know and we continued our journey. When we arrived in Penong it looked like our plans may come completely unstuck with a very serious truck crash on the eastern outskirts of town causing the road to be completely blocked. Fortunately for us a friendly local came over and directed us to some farm tracks that would take us around the accident site and had us back on our way in a few minutes.

We stopped at the Quarantine Checking Station where our fridge and pantry were checked and made it the caravan park just after 6:30pm. We were directed to a very nice cabin where we were able to park the trailer just outside our door. The wind was ferocious so we knew we had made the right decision.

The wind continued throughout the next day, with some rain as well. We did manage to go for a walk to the supermarket in between showers. 

Last time we stayed in Ceduna we had a very nice meal at the pub bistro next door to the caravan park so we decided to do the same again. Our meals were delicious and generous. I had the Boston Bay Mussels again but this time they were cooked in a rich tomato sauce with chorizo for added flavour, and were served with a few prawns and garlic bread. Yum! Mick had his usual chicken schnitzel which he also enjoyed very much.

We left Ceduna and continued driving eastward, not completely sure where we would end up.

Madura

 18 – 19 November 2022

After leaving Salmon Gums we stopped briefly at Norseman before finally heading east and on to the Eyre Highway which would take us across the Nullarbor and into South Australia.

We usually have a picnic lunch but we were driving through rain (good thing we replaced the wiper blades), and the sky ahead was dark so we stopped at Balladonia for lunch in the roadhouse before continuing on to Madura.

Travelling east to west we had to adjust our clocks forward 45 minutes so it was after 4:00pm when we pulled up for the night. More rain was forecast but we had timed our arrival well and were able to get set up and dinner organised before the rain started. It was really cold and windy outside so we had our pre-dinner drinks and a grazing platter for dinner inside where we were warm and dry. Sometimes you just have to adapt to the local conditions.

More rain had been forecast for the morning but the sky was clear as we packed up and set off to continue our journey across the Nullarbor.

Salmon Gums

17 – 18 November 2022

After finding our way out of Mason Bay on an undamaged road we drove through Hopetoun and on to Ravensthorpe where we stopped for a coffee. We could have taken a short cut along the Southern Ocean Road, but were not prepared to risk it as we had seen a “Flood Damage” sign at the turn-off the previous day.

We continued along the South Coast Highway to Esperance where we stopped for lunch and to get some new windscreen wiper blades fitted. From Esperance we turned northwards and stopped at Salmon Gums for the night.

Salmon Gums has a small community run campground/caravan park. On arrival we called the caretaker – one of four locals who look after the park – and were told to pick a spot and leave payment in the honesty box. As an overnighter this is a perfectly adequate spot – clean amenities, a laundry and some nice bush nearby. It is close to the rail line but we didn’t notice any noise overnight.

In the morning we went for a walk before leaving to cross the Nullarbor.

Mason Bay

16 – 17 November 2022

We left Cheynes Beach and headed towards Ravensthorpe where we stopped to do some shopping, then headed to Mason Bay Campground, another one where we had stayed previously. Unfortunately we trusted the GPS and took a back road that had recently been flooded and still had a few spots where there was water on the road, a causeway that had water right across it and some fairly significant damage.

We arrived at the campground and found a good spot that provided some protection from the wind. With just an overnight stay planned we were able to leave the trailer hooked up to the car. The campground is council run and is one of many that are moving to a booking system – not yet in place when we stayed but coming very soon.

Mick spent some time photographing the birds he had come to see and in the morning we went for a short walk on the beach before leaving and starting the journey towards “home” in earnest. This time we took the road straight back towards Hopetoun and were pleased that this road was in good condition with no water and no flood damage. This is the road we should have been on the previous afternoon!

Cheynes Beach

13 – 16 November 2022

Leaving the Stirling Ranges we returned to the Porongorups and Castle Rock. Again the weather was not conducive to a strenuous hike to the Granite Skywalk but the birding around the carpark was again productive. From there we stopped for fuel on the outskirts of Albany and then on to Cheynes Beach.

There are three Western Australian endemic birds that can be found at Cheynes so Mick was hopeful that he would be able to find them. To maximise his chances he climbed out bed at 4:15am and was off with the camera after a quick breakfast. He returned after almost 4 hours with the news that he had been able to photograph all three birds, as well as some honey possums. He was very pleased with his morning’s outing. He did go out on the other two mornings we were at Cheynes but left it a little later each morning, without the same success.

We went for a couple of drives around the area and for a walk along the beach in a couple of spots. We also visited the “offal pits” to do some birding. Cheynes is quite a sheltered beach and is very popular as a fishing spot. Although we saw a number of people fishing we weren’t aware of anyone actually catching.

The weather forecast was for more cold, wind and rain but again we were hopeful it wouldn’t impact us too heavily over the next few days as we headed to Mason Bay.

Stirling Ranges

8 – 13 November 2022

After leaving Crowea we made our way along forest roads to the Gloucester Tree – to look for birds. It had been a fairly productive location when we visited 4 years previously and it was this time too. We had morning tea there and considered our next stop. We decided that despite some iffy weather coming up we would make our way to the Stirling Ranges.

We headed through Pemberton, then back towards Manjimup where we turned off towards Mount Barker. We stopped at Lake Muir where there is a boardwalk out to a bird hide which overlooks the lake. Unfortunately the water was too far away to get a good look at what might be there, but there were picnic tables, a shelter and toilet so it made a good spot to have lunch.

We continued through Mount Barker and on to the Stirling Ranges. There is no camping in the national park so we stayed at the caravan park which is well known as a birdwatchers spot. We had our fingers crossed that the rain that was forecast wouldn’t eventuate – but we were wrong, we had rain off and on every day that we were there and the nights were bitterly cold. Despite that it is a beautiful spot and Mick was able to get lots of good bird photos just around the caravan park and surrounds.

On our first day we spent the day at camp – with Mick venturing around the grounds between showers of rain. He met a couple of other birders who were happy to share their recent sightings.

The following morning the sky was clear but with rain forecast for later in the day we decided to go out for a drive along the loop that takes you through the Stirling Range National Park. There are a number of peaks that have hiking tracks but they are all Class 4 or 5, and with the weather the way it was, we weren’t keen. Instead we stopped at a lovely picnic spot at Red Gum Springs. There are toilets, picnic tables and BBQ. We continued on stopping at a couple of lookouts – Western and Central as well as another picnic area at White Gum Flat. It’s a lovely drive and we were lucky the rain held off until we were home.

We had booked to stay for three nights but decided to extend after a checking the weather forecast. There had been some quite heavy rain overnight and we weren’t keen to pack up wet, and then unpack in the wet at our next destination. After arranging the extra nights we drove to the Porongorups, about 45 kilometres away. We entered the National Park at Castle Rock where the Granite Skywalk is located. We decided against attempting this as there was rain on the way. Instead Mick spent the time photographing wrens in the carpark.

We had been told about a winery a little further on that had lots of birds in the gardens so we headed there. Unfortunately the rain started in earnest just as we arrived so we had to settle for coffee and cake, and wine tasting for me. I picked up a couple of bottles (no room for more) of lovely cool climate Sauvignon Blanc and Rose.

Saturday was cold, windy and rainy, as expected so we spent most of the day indoors catching up on social media and photo editing. Fortunately the rain overnight and into early Sunday morning was not significant and everything was dry enough to pack up. We were glad we had decided to stay the extra couple of nights. Our next stop would be another place we had been before – Cheynes Beach.

Crowea

7 – 8 November 2022

With only a couple of hours driving time to get to our friend’s place from Hamelin Bay we decided to have our first stop at Nannup. After morning tea in a park just before reaching the town, we drove on and found a terrific spot by the river where Mick spent a couple of hours photographing the birds. We stayed so long we had lunch there before setting off for Manjimup.

We did some shopping in Manjimup then set the GPS for Crowea and that was our big mistake! I had looked on Google Maps and had a bit of an idea about where we were going but did not commit it to memory and trusted the GPS – otherwise known as The Crazy Lady – to get us there.

After a travelling a significant distance down a main road she tried to get us to turn onto a fire trail which we ignored, then she tried another one. We realised this would not be an easy journey. Fortunately we had some mobile signal and a message from Jeff with some detailed directions had us going back the way we had come and taking the right road. After a couple of more wrong turns we eventually made it to Jeff’s place deep in the forest and set up camp beside the shed.

We enjoyed a fantastic night catching up on the 25 years since we had last seen each other. Watching the moon rise on a clear sky and sharing food and wine was a lovely way to end the day. In the morning our host took us on a tour of the property – once grazing land and now returning to forest. We met some of his favourite trees and saw the potential of regeneration up close with lots of small jarrah and karri trees around the place. We left, promising to return to this very tranquil spot.

After a very good look at Google Maps this time, we navigated our way towards Pemberton and the Gloucester Tree.

Hamelin Bay

4 – 7 November 2022

We left the caravan park at Woodman Point and drove down to the beach for a quick look. As we were walking along Mick stopped to talk to some fellow birders who told him about some birds much further along the beach, on the point. I waited on the beach and an hour and a half later, he returned, well pleased with having seen and photographed another new bird for the trip.

Finally back on the highway we drove south towards Busselton, stopping at Old Whittaker’s Mill rest area for lunch. There are no facilities at this spot, but it was sheltered from the wind by the trees. There are tracks looping through the trees all around the area, which looks like it is used by campers.

From there we continued on to the Bussel Highway and on through Margaret River, then on to Caves Road and Hamelin Bay. We called in to Hamelin Bay on our last visit to the west and it looked like a good spot. The caravan park is in the national park so dogs are not allowed which suits us perfectly.

Hamelin Bay is famous for the stingrays which gather in the bay, but we had come for the Rock parrots and other birds. The weather when we arrived was almost perfect – warm and with little breeze, but we knew that would probably change and that the nights would definitely be cold. We went for a walk along the beach and up onto the cliffs where the walking track forms part of the Cape to Cape Track.

On Saturday morning Mick was up early to photograph the birds, and after a late breakfast we headed to Augusta. We called in to Cosy Corner along the way so I could take a photo for a friend who was camped at Cosy Corner in Tasmania. Both beautiful spots but the WA one was very windy at the time so we didn’t stay long.

In Augusta we drove down to the water and found a lovely café for morning tea, before doing some shopping. The local Baptist Church community was holding a free sausage sizzle so we gratefully accepted a sausage and some fresh cinnamon donuts too. Despite their church affiliation there was no hard sell – we were happy to accept the free food along with a small flier which was discretely handed over with the food.

Hamelin Bay is famous for the smooth stingrays, black stingrays and eagle rays which live in the shallow waters of the Ngari Capes Marine Park and feed along the beach and around the old jetty. We were lucky enough to see a couple each time we went to the beach. It was difficult to get a photo because there were so many others trying to do the same thing and despite warnings to look but not touch and to stay a couple of metres away from these graceful creatures, many people were running along beside them and reaching out to pat them. We did manage a few photos when we noticed one further along the beach.

We left Hamelin Bay to travel to a friend’s place near Manjimup which would only take a couple of hours so we planned a couple of stops along the way.

Woodman Point

3 – 4 November 2022

We left our Perth accommodation early so that we could deliver the camper trailer to the Cub agent near Fremantle for a much needed service. Travelling through the city was very stressful, especially when we found ourselves in the wrong lane and had to double back after exiting the freeway at the wrong spot. Fortunately we had left home allowing plenty of time to get there and weren’t late after all. We then had the whole day to fill in as there were also some necessary repairs to be done.

After leaving the trailer we went to yet another lake – North Lake in the Beeliar Regional Park. We stopped on one side of the lake and could see a bird hide across the water so drove around to the other side. Unfortunately, lack of signage made it quite difficult to find the right spot to enter the park but we eventually took a punt on a small parking spot, and with the help of the gps on the phone, found the bird hide. Mick was pleased to find some more ducks to photograph. Driving back around the lake we stopped at a coffee van for morning tea, then set the gps to take us into Fremantle.

We stopped at a couple of op shops along the way and then had lunch in the city. With a few hours left before we could collect the trailer we found Brack’s Library and spent the rest of the afternoon there. With good free wifi and nice comfortable surroundings it was perfect. We have made a bit of a habit of spending time in local libraries and noticed a couple that we thought we had seen before. I asked, and sure enough, it was the same people we had seen in Darwin, Broome and Esperance! I wonder whether we’ll see them again somewhere.

Because we weren’t able to get back on the road until after 4:00pm we chose to drive just a short distance to Woodman Point where we spent just the one night. In the morning we went for a walk to the beach, didn’t find it. Instead of following the signposted bike path we followed a track that we thought would take us there – but it didn’t. Taking another likely track we stumbled across information about the old quarantine station that occupied the site – but still no sign of the beach so we gave up. We decided instead to drive down on our way out.

Karrinyup - Perth

 27 October – 3 November 2022

We had intended to treat ourselves to a couple of nights in a cabin every couple of months but we had not been able to find one in a nice location due to the huge numbers of people travelling. A couple of months previously we decided to book ahead to have a week in Perth and by the time we arrived we were ready for some comparative luxury.

We chose a caravan park with good facilities and a location that would allow fairly easy access to Herdsman’s Lake, Mick’s favourite birding spot in Perth. We also booked the car in for a service and arranged for the trailer to be serviced and some minor repairs carried out, on the day we were to leave. We were also able to fit in some time to wander around a nearby major shopping centre.

There are a number of lakes throughout Perth and we visited some of these looking to photograph birds. Herdsman’s wasn’t as good as last time were there with the wind chopping up the water and the reeds blocking the view in many parts. We also visited Jackadder Lake and Lake Monger. Lake Monger proved to be the best one this time with a nice sheltered corner and lots of ducks to photograph.

We went for an early morning drive to Victoria Dam which is where Perth’s water supply comes from. Located in a lovely spot up in the hills there is a walk through the bush to the dam wall and picnic area. Unfortunately vehicular access is not permitted beyond the first car park so we didn’t make use of the picnic area at the dam. Instead we drove to Lesmurdie Falls and found a very nice picnic area a short walk along the path from the carpark. After morning tea we walked along the path beside a babbling brook to the falls lookout. There are two lookout points with fantastic views to Perth city and beyond. There were also a number of birds to take photos of too!

Travelling around this beautiful country is wonderful but I do miss seeing my friends so it is always special when we can catch up with some along the way. We had a great night out in Perth with old mates who we only get to see when we come over this way.

After a lovely week relaxing and catching up on "city" jobs, we packed the trailer ready for an early morning departure that would take us through the city to a Cub agent and repairer near Fremantle.