Stirling Ranges

8 – 13 November 2022

After leaving Crowea we made our way along forest roads to the Gloucester Tree – to look for birds. It had been a fairly productive location when we visited 4 years previously and it was this time too. We had morning tea there and considered our next stop. We decided that despite some iffy weather coming up we would make our way to the Stirling Ranges.

We headed through Pemberton, then back towards Manjimup where we turned off towards Mount Barker. We stopped at Lake Muir where there is a boardwalk out to a bird hide which overlooks the lake. Unfortunately the water was too far away to get a good look at what might be there, but there were picnic tables, a shelter and toilet so it made a good spot to have lunch.

We continued through Mount Barker and on to the Stirling Ranges. There is no camping in the national park so we stayed at the caravan park which is well known as a birdwatchers spot. We had our fingers crossed that the rain that was forecast wouldn’t eventuate – but we were wrong, we had rain off and on every day that we were there and the nights were bitterly cold. Despite that it is a beautiful spot and Mick was able to get lots of good bird photos just around the caravan park and surrounds.

On our first day we spent the day at camp – with Mick venturing around the grounds between showers of rain. He met a couple of other birders who were happy to share their recent sightings.

The following morning the sky was clear but with rain forecast for later in the day we decided to go out for a drive along the loop that takes you through the Stirling Range National Park. There are a number of peaks that have hiking tracks but they are all Class 4 or 5, and with the weather the way it was, we weren’t keen. Instead we stopped at a lovely picnic spot at Red Gum Springs. There are toilets, picnic tables and BBQ. We continued on stopping at a couple of lookouts – Western and Central as well as another picnic area at White Gum Flat. It’s a lovely drive and we were lucky the rain held off until we were home.

We had booked to stay for three nights but decided to extend after a checking the weather forecast. There had been some quite heavy rain overnight and we weren’t keen to pack up wet, and then unpack in the wet at our next destination. After arranging the extra nights we drove to the Porongorups, about 45 kilometres away. We entered the National Park at Castle Rock where the Granite Skywalk is located. We decided against attempting this as there was rain on the way. Instead Mick spent the time photographing wrens in the carpark.

We had been told about a winery a little further on that had lots of birds in the gardens so we headed there. Unfortunately the rain started in earnest just as we arrived so we had to settle for coffee and cake, and wine tasting for me. I picked up a couple of bottles (no room for more) of lovely cool climate Sauvignon Blanc and Rose.

Saturday was cold, windy and rainy, as expected so we spent most of the day indoors catching up on social media and photo editing. Fortunately the rain overnight and into early Sunday morning was not significant and everything was dry enough to pack up. We were glad we had decided to stay the extra couple of nights. Our next stop would be another place we had been before – Cheynes Beach.

Karijini National Park – Dales Campground

 15 – 18 October 2022

We left Tom Price and drove the 110 km to Karijini National Park, arriving around morning tea time. We called into the visitor centre and were given lots of great information about the walks. The lady we spoke to took the time to explain the different walks, and created a possible itinerary for us. We found our campsite and set up, with a bit of shade as well as lots of sun to keep the solar panels working well.

It was a very hot afternoon, so we waited until late in the day to drive the short distance to Dales Gorge to have a bit of a look around and decide what we would do the following day. First we went to the Circular Pool Lookout, then to the Three Ways Lookout. We’ve seen lots of gorges on this, and previous, trips and this one is quite spectacular. We also drove to the Jubula (Fortescue Falls) Lookout and again marvelled at this magnificent sight.

We decided to tackle the Ngirribungunha (Dales Gorge) Rim Walk early in the day and drove back to the Circular Pool Lookout as our starting point as that would give us the sun behind us for the outward journey. This walk is the only easy walk in the park – Grade 2/3 – and is about 2.4 kilometres return. There is a loop that can be completed by descending into the gorge but we decided that would be too strenuous for us as it is rated Grade 5. The rim walk is mostly a well-made, fairly level pathway, but there are a couple of gully crossings that are quite rough, and some small up and down sections. The path is mostly on gravelly ground so good shoes are essential.

On our walk between Circular Pool and Fortescue Falls Lookouts we saw the spot where you can access or climb out of the gorge – definitely not for us as it looked like it would involve some serious steep rock climbing. The guide booklet says there is a ladder and steep stairs. Access at the other end is via approximately 245 stairs that descend to Fortescue Falls.

After morning tea back at camp we set off for a swim at Fortescue Falls – down the 245 stairs. The walk down was easy and once we reached the bottom we continued on to Jubura (Fern Pool) which most people agree is the nicest spot. There is a fairly new platform where you can sit and enjoy the surrounds, as well as ladders to climb in and out of the pool. We took the pool noodles and floated around in the very cool water of Fern Pool. You can swim right over to the waterfall. This is a sacred place and visitors are asked to remain quiet and not jump or dive into the water.

From Jubura we walked back to Jubula and had another swim. We felt we should try both spots and have to agree with popular opinion – Jubura is by far the nicer swimming spot. The trek back up the stairs required a couple of stops along the way at the strategically place seats. It’s also nice to stop occasionally and take in the fabulous views.

We spent the rest of our time in and around the campground - there were lots of birds around and a curious dingo who visited each morning and afternoon. It looked like it was just waiting to pounce on any food left laying around. Unfortunately some well meaning but ignorant vistors feed these beautiful animals, causing them to become aggressive looking for more food. The result is that rangers are forced to euthenise them. 

We left Karijini after three nights and set off towards Newman and Meekatharra, slowly making our way to Perth.

 

Cape Range National Park – Kurrajong Campground

10 – 12 October 2022

We had booked 4 nights at Cape Range in the same campground we had stayed at in 2018. On the way we stopped in Exmouth to refuel and resupply, and have lunch before making our way to the western side of the peninsula.

We know that the west coast can be windy at this time of year but what we experienced was way beyond what we had anticipated. The wind was in excess of 35km/h as we were setting the camper trailer up. This required a carefully co-ordinated sequence of steps that included extra ropes and tie down points. Once we had managed to get things in order we went for a walk over the dune down to the beach. The camp hosts had told us that there were still whales about, making their way slowly south after calving in waters of the Kimberley coast. Unfortunately the strong sea breeze (there was actually a strong wind warning) meant the sea was far too choppy to see anything other than white caps inside the reef and surf outside it. Mick did manage to get some nice photos of the sunset, but no marine life this time.

After a restless night with the wind hammering the canvas we drove to the Milyering Visitor Centre to check the weather forecast and have a look at hiring snorkelling gear. Our worst fears were realised when we saw that the weather would remain the same for the duration of our stay – winds in the 30 – 35km/h range with gusts up to double that. This would make snorkelling and swimming very unpleasant.

While we were out we drove down to Lakeside which had been one of our favourite snorkelling spots on our last visit but this time we just walked on the beach. We also revisited Trealla Beach where Mick had photographed an Osprey on its nest, but there was no trace of it.

Once we were home we carefully considered our options and decided that there was no point in staying if we couldn’t do the things we had come to do so, after lunch, we went back to the visitor centre and changed our booking to leave the following day. We also brought forward our booking for Karijini which would give us a couple of extra days on the way to Perth.

We were very sad to be leaving early but it was such a struggle to manage camping in the wind, especially trying to cook. When we were packing up the winds were recorded at 37km/h by the BoM. That was not much fun but we did somehow get the trailer and awning packed away without too much fuss – just a lot of planning and working together which we always do anyway.

On the way back in to Exmouth Mick spotted some birds on the oval so he had a pleasantly unexpected session with the camera before we went into the visitor centre for a coffee.

Millstream Chichester National Park – Miliyanha Campground

 2 – 5 October 2022

We made our way from Port Hedland southward, towards Karratha where we would turn off towards Millstream Chichester National Park. Once again we found a good rest area for a cuppa before continuing on, with a stop at Roebourne for lunch.

We were now in the Pilbara region which is well known for iron ore mining and we certainly saw lots of evidence of that. Once on the road to the national park, we saw a number of trains transporting iron ore to the ports. We were somewhat surprised to see that the rail corridor went right through the national park.

Spring is wildflower time in Western Australia but we hadn’t seen many this far north until this leg of the trip. As we drove we started to see the subtle mauve of Mulla Mulla and the vibrant red of Sturt’s Desert Pea along with many other flowers we didn’t recognised. The stark contrast of the flowers with the dark red, iron ore laden the soil made for a very interesting backdrop as we drove along.

We had booked our campsite some time ago as we had become aware that national park camping is very popular and places book out many months ahead. The campsite we had chosen turned out to be well suited to our needs. There was a small tree that would give some shade for the car, and we were able to position the camper trailer to get shade from mid-morning. The rest of the site was in full sun for most of the day so the solar was working very efficiently.

Near to the campground is the Millstream Homestead which has been set up as a really good museum. At the entrance to each room is a door mat stating what the room was used for at different times. After it had been a family home, the Homestead had been used as a tavern before becoming the museum it is today. There were a number of “hands-on” exhibits which made it all the more interesting. The adjacent day use area also had picnic tables and BBQs.

On Tuesday morning we drove down the road to the Cliff Lookout where there are expansive views of the Fortescue River and beyond to the Hamersley Ranges. From there we continued to Deep Reach Pool (Nhanggangunha) which is a permanent body of water. Swimming is permitted but visitors are asked to be quiet and respectful in this sacred place. We did think we might return in the afternoon for a swim but didn’t as there was a good breeze keeping the temperature manageable.

After three lovely days, we packed up and set off to drive back towards the coast and on to Onslow for a couple of nights.

Mitchell River National Park - Mitchell Falls Campground

 21 – 25 August 2022

A visit to Punamii-Uunpuu (Mitchell Falls) was the main reason for driving the Gibb River Road so after a night at Munurru we were finally very close. Many people leave their caravans or camper trailers at Munurru and day trip in, but the 80 kilometres was rough going and took us about 1 ¾ hours. We were very glad we had planned to stay a few days and also that our off-road camper trailer was up to the task. Even though the road was rough, the drive was magnificent. At times, you are driving along the ridgeline with some great views, and at other times you are driving through forests of endemic livistona palms.

We arrived at the campground before lunch time and paid for three nights. Unlike most Western Australia National Parks campgrounds you cannot book and pay online so it is essential to carry some cash to pay for camping. There weren’t too many people there as it was quite late in the season and we were able to get a nice spot with some shade but where we would also be able to get the solar panels into the sun. There were toilets nearby and non-potable water there as well. Some sites also have fire pits. The down side of this campground is the proximity to the helipad with its constant traffic taking people to and from the falls. 

There is a good swimming spot at Little Mertens Falls about 1 kilometre along the track from the campground so we set off in the afternoon to try it out. Unfortunately it’s not signposted and the information boards are a bit misleading. The quoted distance is to the top of the falls, but you have to keep walking and turn off the track to do some rock scrambling in order to get to the bottom of the falls. It was a bit of an effort but so worthwhile to be able to have a dip in such a lovely spot. With temperatures in the mid 30’s forecast, we figured we’d come down here more than once.

Our main purpose for visiting Mitchell Falls was so Mick could photograph the rare Black Grasswren. He had been given some information that would help him locate one, and had done his homework regarding habitat, call and behaviour. The likely spots were along the walk to the falls so we set off just after 7:00am full of hope. We had difficulty with the GPS co-ordinates we had been given, but a location description proved to be correct and he found the bird. Of course this lead to a very long session trying to get the perfect shot but the bird did not oblige.

We eventually continued the walk which is about 9 kilometres return and a Grade 5. The walk varies from an easy stroll along well made paths, to scrambling up and down over rocks. I found it hard going at times but was determined to get all the way to the falls. We made it to the end and were rewarded with views of this stunning set of waterfalls. This is such a popular spot, we counted 6 helicopters in the air or just landed when we first arrived. We had a swim near the top of the falls at a spot suggested by one of the tour guides as the easiest place to get in and out. After our swim and a snack we set off for the return journey. Most people helicopter one or both ways but we had to walk so we could keep an eye and ear out for the Black Grasswren. We had thought we might have a swim at Little Mertens Falls on the way back but it was almost 11:00 am and even though we were hot we were so exhausted we couldn’t contemplate the extra distance. We made it back to camp and spent the rest of the day resting.

We decided to add an extra night so over the next couple of days Mick returned to the spot where he had first spotted the Grasswren about 2 kilometres from camp, and also walked the Riverview track. He also spent some time near the day use area as they had been sighted there as well. Unfortunately none of this paid off with any better photographs. We also managed to fit in another swim at Little Mertens Falls where we also found the art sites, and also had a swim close to camp in the creek.

Mick did take lots of photos of other birds while we were there too. There were some very friendly Partridge Pigeons, some of whom came quite close to our camp and also a Boobook roosting in the hollow of the tree beside our camp. We watched him leave each night and Mick saw him return one morning,

Getting to Mitchell Falls is quite an effort – the road condition can vary considerably but by all reports it is nearly always pretty awful, but it certainly worthwhile. We love camping in National Parks and going for walks – although not usually as long and as difficult as this one! We think is it definitely better to camp there rather than day trip in as you have more time to enjoy all that there is to see and do – and then to rest afterwards.

After four nights we finally left Mitchell Falls and headed back the way we had come. We made our first stop at the art site closest to the Munurru Campground. We had heard about the artwork there and were very keen to see it. This site is known as the Warnmarri (Brolga) Complex and is well signposted, just off the main road. We set off along the track and were astounded at the number and quality of images to be found. There is no interpretive information but a book available at Drysdale River Station contains comprehensive information about this and the other nearby site. I had looked at the book while at Mitchell Falls thanks to a generous fellow camper so we had some idea about what we were seeing.

After a good look around the site we continued on to the Munurru day use area. We had lunch at one of the picnic tables and were contemplating a swim when a tour bus arrived. We decided to give it a miss and continue on to the next art site – The Wandjina Complex - which was a few kilometres down the road.  This one is also well signposted and is just before the river crossing. Once again we were amazed at the fabulous images, especially the mythical Wandjina after whom this site is named, and the Gwion (Bradshaw) figures. We spent another half hour wandering around this site.

We set off again and rejoined the Kalumburu Road on the way back to Drysdale River Station where we would stop for an overnighter.

Purnululu National Park - Walardi Campground

 2 - 5 August 2022

We made our way from Kurrajong Campground to Walardi Campground and arrived around morning tea time. Walardi is smaller than Kurrajong with only 37 sites, compared to Kurrajong's 106. Because we were early we had a good choice of spots and again found one that we thought would suit us. This campground has a lot more bush around so the opportunity to collect solar throughout the day wasn't as good as at Kurrajong, but we managed well enough. The bonus was a nearby tap with a good spot for Mick to set up with the camera and tripod, and a few neighbours who were also birders.

The weather forecast was for more hot days, and some slightly warmer nights, so we rose early to get to Piccaninny before the heat set in. We decided to head out to Piccaninny Creek Lookout first as it was described as a 2.8km, Class 3 walk that is exposed to the sun. Once again we walked along a creek bed for part of the way, but this one was undulating smooth sandstone underfoot. At the end of the walk we were rewarded with a view over Piccaninny Creek towards the Ord River, beehive domes and Dixon Range. 

Returning to the main track we walked back towards the carpark and turned off to Cathedral Gorge, another of Purnululu's most well-known features. Cathedral Gorge Walk is described as 2 km return (from the carpark) and Class 4, but once again we found it fairly easy. The track includes another walk through a creek bed and among beehive domes which are just awseome, with the gorge at the end of the walk. When we arrived, it was so quiet, with the few others there sitting in silence just taking it all in. Even the children were quiet! It's just that kind of place. We spent quite a while enjoying the cool in this special place, chatting quietly to new friends who just happen to live in Hobart.

After leaving Cathedral Gorge we returned to the main track and left it again for The Domes walk, a 700m, Class 3 loop. This walk allows a close-up look at the iconic beehive domes for which Purnululu is famous. Here you can see the layers of sediment and protective banding of iron oxide and cyanobacteria that gives the domes their distinctive look.

By the time we had finsihed taking in all these magnificent sights, it was almost lunchtime so we headed home with so many photos - it's so hard not to keep taking shots of everything you see. We enjoyed a restful afternoon including some socialising with neighbours.

After a number of very active days, and having completed all the walks that we wanted to do, we had a rest day on our final full day at Purnululu. Mick staked out the water point and we started to get packed up so we could get away early in the morning. We wanted to allow plenty of time to refuel and shop in Kunnurra as well as time to stop and look for birds along the way.

We set the alarm for 5:30am, and rose just as the sun was starting to get up. We packed as quietly as we could, but most of our near neighbours were up anyway. We stopped to chat to new friends and were away before 7:00am. We weren't looking forward to the long and slow drive out of the park, and made it back to the entrance just after 8:30am. We stopped to put air back in the tyres and have a cup of coffee. We also discovered that the Anderson plug that provides power to the camper trailer battery while driving had broken off, so Mick replaced it with the one from the compressor. We would have to buy a new one (or maybe 2) in Kunnurra. We were back on the road in just over 1/2 hour, heading for Lake Argyle.

Purnululu National Park - Kurrajong Campground

 30 July - 2 August 2022

When we did our trip around Australia in 1991 (no-one called it “doing the lap” in those days) we weren’t able to visit Purnululu National Park as it had already closed for the season, so we had it as a priority for this trip. We set off from Kununurra and made a morning tea stop at Cockburn Rest Area. This is also used as a 24 hour free camp and the number of birds around had us seriously considering it for when we would be on the way to Wyndham be in a couple of weeks.

From there we drove on and stopped for lunch at Dunham River Rest Area, another one used as a 24 hour free camp. This one looked much nicer that Cockburn but there weren’t any birds around. We continued on to the turn-off to Purnululu National Park, where we stopped to let some air out of the tyres. We had read that the road into the national park is in poor condition so we wanted to be prepared. The drive from the turn-off to the Visitor Centre is 53 kilometres and took about an hour and a half. Yes, the road was as bad as we had expected. There were a number of shallow creek crossings and lots of corrugations, as well as windy and narrow sections – but the views were magnificent.

We had booked three nights at each of the two campgrounds – Kurrajong (in the northern section of the park, and Walardi (in the southern section) – and we were required to check in at the visitor centre before travelling on to the campground. We obtained our camp tags and arrived at Kurrajong, the larger of the two campgrounds, after 4:00pm. We took our time to choose the best spot for us and found one that would give us afternoon shade as well as lots of sun to keep the solar powering the batteries. There are toilets and taps scattered throughout the campground so we were not far from those either. Although there was lots of bush around we could see to the ranges so we felt we had the perfect spot.

We decided on Homestead Valley as our first walk so we set off quite early to avoid the heat of the day. With afternoon temperatures in the thirties, it was best to walk in the mornings. The Homestead Walk leaves from The Bloodwoods and is described as a 4.4km return, Class 3 walk. It involves walking along the dry creek bed, through rocks, stones and pebbles. The end of the walk is at a very nice shaded picnic area. Although old Aboriginal stockmen spoke of a homestead in the valley, there is no physical evidence of one having been there. It’s a lovely walk, with or without a homestead at the end.

We finished there at around 10:00 am and made our way down the road to Echidna. We had a cup of coffee before setting off to walk into Echidna Chasm. This is one of Purnululu’s best-known features with the middle of the day the best time to visit. When the sun is overhead, the walls of the chasm seem to glow. The walk is 4.2km and described at Class 3 to the chasm, then Class 4 inside. This walk also involved walking along a dry, rocky creek bed. Once inside the chasm it was easy to see why it is so well-known. The place is just magnificent and we timed it well to see the changing colours of the rock walls. The walk wasn’t too difficult but we did need to do some rock scrambling towards the end. We both took so many photos – it was hard to know when to stop.

From Echidna Chasm we returned to camp in time for lunch and then a very restful afternoon trying to beat the heat. The best place to be was in the shade of the awning. Late in the afternoon we walked up the nearby hill to the sunset viewing area. We were a bit early but had left time to stop and look for birds in the spinifex along the way. The views from the top were fabulous.

The following day we set off early again to do some short walks. First up it was back down to Echidna for the Osmand Lookout – a short 1km return, Class 3 walk, which we actually found very easy. Once again fabulous views, of the Osmand Ranges, that were formed millions of years ago. From there we drove back down to the Bloodwoods to the Bloodwood Lookout. This was also approximately 500m and Class 3, but again quite easy, and with more amazing views of the Bungle Bungle Range and surrounding woodlands. Our final walk for the morning was Stonehenge. We still have no idea how it was named as it was a botanical walk with lots of interpretative information about how the various plants were used as food, medicine and to make tools and weapons.

Before returning home we revisited the Information Centre to buy a t-shirt. We are not big on souvenirs but I had been searching for a nice shirt for quite a while and this one in gunmetal grey with the very understated Purnululu logo featuring the domes, suited me nicely.

Late in the afternoon we drove up to Kungkalanay Lookout for the sunset. The path splits at the top so there are two sunset viewing spots - both with some seats. Once again the sunset view was very popular. It's important to check what time the sun actually sets as we saw a few groups arriving after it had already gone down. At this time of year in this part of Western Australia sunset occurs at about 5:15pm. 

In the morning we packed up our camp and drove the 18km or so over to Walardi Campground where we would spend the next three nights.