Bluewater Springs Roadhouse

 7 – 8 June 2021

We left Georgetown and set off towards Mount Surprise, then turned off the Gulf Developmental Road onto the Kennedy Developmental Road. At The Lynd Junction we turned onto the Gregory Developmental Road on our way towards Charters Towers. There aren’t many stops on this route so it was either going to be Greenvale or Bluewater Springs for the night. We decided to head for the one we hadn’t stayed at before – Bluewater Springs Roadhouse. There is a small campground on the banks of the – currently dry – creek adjacent to the small roadhouse.

We selected a powered site for the night as Mick was very keen to download the thousand photos he had taken over the last few days. There was only us and two caravanners there for the night which was just as well as there was only one combined shower/toilet in the campground. The gents toilet at the roadhouse was also available to campers.

As has become our custom we went out for dinner on our final night – fish and chips at the roadhouse served “old style” with bread and butter, and a cup of tea if we wanted (we didn’t). There was a sprinkle of rain during the night and then an overcast morning. A leisurely pack up and the relatively short last leg of our journey had us home in time for smoko.

Flat Creek Station

 5 – 7 June 2021

We had made contact with the owners/managers of Flat Creek Station via Facebook Messenger and had received directions to get there. They had also alerted us that there might not be anyone at the homestead when we arrived. We set off from Cumberland Dam, and drove back through Georgetown, taking the Forsayth turn-off. From there it was on to the road to Western Creek Station, and Flat Creek Station. Flat Creek is about 26km along a gravel road, that was is quite good condition when we travelled.

Arriving at Flat Creek Station we made our way to the homestead and completed the self-check in. From there we drove down to the campground. Arriving at the campground, I was a bit underwhelmed. It was more bush camp than campground, with no clear definition to camping sites or even areas, and little level ground. Signs at the small amenities block indicated that campers are responsible for maintaining and cleaning the toilets and showers, are to provide their own toilet paper, and are also required to light the donkey boiler for hot water. This includes collecting firewood as none is supplied. This is quite different to other stations we have stayed at, and which I found quite surprising.

There were two spots occupied and so we went for a walk and chose a spot that looked OK. We settled in and Mick discovered a dripping water tap not far away – but closer to another possible campsite. Of course, he spent the rest of the day up there. We decided that in the morning we would shift to the other spot closer to the dripping tap so Mick could keep an eye on it throughout the day.

The next morning, after Mick had spent an hour or so up at the tap, we packed up and shifted camp. That would have to be out all-time record for shortest distance travelled between camps – probably no more than 50 metres! Set up in our new spot, we had morning tea and then took a drive along station tracks to where a fellow camper had told us we would find a bird feeder. We did find it – just over 1 km away – but it was the wrong time of day to get good photos. At least we knew where to come back to later. Back to camp and Mick continued to stake out the dripping tap throughout the afternoon.

We did not see the owners/managers the whole time we were there so were not able to ask about other birdwatching spots, something we found to be very disappointing given that was the reason for our visit which I had indicated in my initial message regarding camping. We decided to stay only 2 nights, leaving late so Mick could spend the last morning at the water tap.

Flat Creek Station wasn’t what we expected but it did turn out to be a nice place to stay. On the way back to Georgetown we stopped in at a nearby campground for a look, but it wasn’t really what we wanted. We had lunch in a park in Georgetown and decided to head for home and just go as far as we could.

 

 

Pinnarendi Station

 4 – 5 June 2021

The drive from Innot Hot Springs was only about 100km so we arrived around morning tea time. As well as camping, Pinnarendi Station also has a café so we ordered coffee while organising a campsite for the night. The campground is very well set up with powered and unpowered sites, a clean and tidy amenities block and access to laundry facilities. The site we were allocated was perfect - right on the end of a row with a great view out to the bush, but not too far from the amenities.

We don’t usually look for station stays, but this would have to be one of the best. Well marked walking tracks lead to three dams – Garden Dam, Big Dam and Number 1 Dam. Because we had a powered site, Mick was able to catch up on some photo editing while I spent another relaxing afternoon with a good book. There was a book exchange in the laundry (as there often is in caravan parks) so I was able to swap one I had finished a few days before, for one by a favourite author.

In the late afternoon we went for a walk and visited each of the dams. Number 1 Dam is supposed to be the best for birds but there wasn’t much action at the time we were there. It was a very nice, easy walk anyway.

Pinnarendi Station is a working cattle station that is a fabulous blend of station stay and caravan park – all the amenities you would expect, with access to bush right there. We will most probably be back some time for a longer stay.

In the morning we decided to try for Flat Creek Station out of Georgetown. We stopped at Mount Surprise for coffee then drove through Georgetown to Cumberland Dam for lunch. This is a lovely free (donations welcome) camp spot that is popular with bird watchers and caravanners alike. After lunch by the dam we headed off for Flat Creek Station – another spot that promised good bird watching.

Innot Hot Springs

 3 - 4 June 2021

We arrived at Innot Hot Springs and checked into the caravan park in the early afternoon. Themal springs bubble up though the creek bed, and at the caravan park they have taken advantage of this activity to create 6 pools of varying temperatures. Three are outside and 3 are under cover. Locals told us that they were not as hot as usual, but the hottest was still very hot. The best way to enjoy the mineral springs is to move between pools – hot, cold, hot, cold. We did just that and found that the warm water eased some of our aches and pains. It was a lovely way to spend the afternoon.

Later on we walked down to the creek and heeded the advice to enter with caution – with no temperature regulation there, burns are possible. I went back for another soak in the pools before dinner. The night was colder that we expected, but the morning was crisp and clear. We considered out options and decided to give Pinnarendi Station a try.

Lion's Den Hotel - Rossville

 2 – 3 June 2021

We’d wanted to stay at the famous Lion’s Den hotel for a while, especially Mick who had stopped there for a beer a few times on the way to or from the Cape on fishing trips, and we finally decided the time was right. The drive from Cooktown was only about 30km so we arrived well before lunch. Check-in is at the hotel bar, and although you can pre-book a powered site, unpowered is just a case of “pay your money and find a spot”.

We chose a spot that would give us some afternoon shade, but would only allow a couple of hours of solar. It’s a very relaxing spot and not too crowded when we arrived, but that did change as the afternoon wore on. The attraction here, apart from the pub, is the lovely creek adjacent to the camping area. If it had been hotter, we would have been tempted to have a swim. There are a couple of spots where you could set up right by the creek, but it is a long way from the amenities.

We spent a quiet afternoon looking around and relaxing. There were a few resident goannas patrolling about, most likely looking for a feed, as well as the usual birds and butterflies you find in the scrub. As the afternoon wore on, the campground started to fill up – and I mean fill up. By nightfall it was packed with camper trailers, caravans, roof-top tents, swags, tents and small motor homes. They were set up everywhere, even between the lodges where signs stated you couldn’t camp. There were lots down by the creek too. We were very glad we had arrived early to be able to choose a nice spot, but were eventually crowded in anyway.

We had decided on dinner at the pub and were a bit worried about their capacity to cater for so many people. We need not have been concerned – we went up early and had our pizza within about 15 minutes. Pizza and a beer on the verandah was a great way to end the day.

In the morning we were again surprised that so many of our fellow campers seemed in no hurry to get on the road. We usually see many early departures from places like that, but not this time. We left around 8:00am and headed back up the road to the Mulligan Highway. We could have gone south and along the Bloomfield Track, but decided against it this time.

We made it to Palmer River Roadhouse and topped up the fuel, then continued to Mount Molloy and stopped at Rifle Creek to make a cuppa. From there it was on to one of our favourites stops for lunch – Platypus Park, just out of Atherton. We continued on towards Ravenshoe and then to Innot Hot Springs – our destination for the night.

Cooktown

 31 May – 2 June 2021

From Lakeland we turned off the Peninsula Development Road and back onto the Mulligan Highway on the way to Cooktown. Not wanting to arrive right on lunch time we stopped at boat ramp on the Annan River for a slightly early picnic lunch, then on into Cooktown to find a caravan park. We hadn’t booked and were surprised to find there were no vacancies at our first choice. We drove on to our second choice, where we had stayed before a couple of times, and secured the last available powered site for two days. The tourism industry is supposed to be doing it tough, but this was not evidence of that.

We spent the afternoon considering our options for Rinyurri Lakefield National Park, only to find there were no campsites available until the end of the following week – the park was only opening on 1 June following a big wet season and was already filling up fast. We didn’t have the luxury of unlimited time so had to scratch that from the list. We also considered a couple pf days at the highly rated Elim Beach but had to abandon that idea when we realised we could not comply with the alcohol restrictions. As we were to be on the road for a number of weeks, we were carrying extra beer and cask wine. Cask wine is not permitted, and only one carton of beer is allowed. We’d have to save that for another time too.

In the afternoon we drove into town, and walked along the waterfront (Endeavour River). Spotting a family of kingfishers was a pleasant surprise so Mick spent some time trying to get some photos of them. There is a well-stocked independent supermarket so we bought some supplies before returning to the caravan park.

In the morning we headed out to Mulbabidgee Keatings Lagoon – another favourite spot. More disappointment when we saw the locked gate and the sign saying the walk, which includes the bird hide and picnic area, was closed due to flooding. We were able to walk along the fenceline adjacent to the road and get a good look at the lagoon which was teeming with birds up in the trees, but not much on the water. The waterbirds come to Mulbabidgee when the other waterholes dry up, which hadn’t happened yet.

Sheltering from a passing shower, we were in the car when the Ranger arrived – to check and open the track! Great timing, we were the first into the conservation area and spent a short time at the bird hide, before heading back into town. On the way we took a short detour to Quarantine Bay – a very pretty spot – before returning home for coffee.

Washing done and hung out, the clouds had moved on so we set off for the Cooktown Botanical Gardens. This is a beautiful spot, developed in an area that was once used by Chinese market gardeners, in the late 1800’s. At this time of year it was lush and green, and was a hive of activity as staff watered and spread mulch. We returned home for lunch and to catch up on some housekeeping, before returning to the waterfront to revisit the kingfishers – always chasing that perfect shot.

In the morning we packed up the trailer and left it on the caravan park site while we went in to town to get fuel and have one last look for the kingfishers – and yes, they were there again. After a short session with the camera we went back and hitched up the trailer, then drove back into town for coffee and a quick look around. Our next destination, Lion’s Den Hotel at Rossville, was only a short drive away.