Ellery Creek Big Hole - Tjoritja/West Macdonnell National Park

28 – 30 August 2017

Another very popular spot, Ellery Creek Big Hole is only a short drive off the highway along an unsealed road. With fewer camp spots, it is wise to arrive early, which we did. The spots are all different shapes and sizes and are sited around a central picnic and barbecue area. There are flushing toilets, but no drinking water. There is a large day use area between the gorge and the campground.

The gorge is easily accessible via a paved pathway and the proximity to Alice Springs makes this another spot that can get quite busy. We spent lots of time just sitting by the waterhole, watching the birds and enjoying the peace and quiet – until the tour buses arrived!

An Inland Thornbill near the camp.

A very pretty waterhole but very crowded at times.

This was a lovely place to sit and watch birds coming in to drink and bathe or the grebes hunting for insects. Grey-headed and White-plumed Honeyeaters came down regularly and Rainbow Bee-eaters plunged into the water from their lofty perches in the river red gums. I saw a Crimson Chat attempting to get to the water but it gave up due to the many people walking past. If it weren't for the crowds this would be paradise. Mick.

Rainbow Bee-eater

White-necked Heron. There were about fifteen of these in the gorge one morning.

 Australasian Grebe. Many gorges had a resident grebe.

Non-breeding Australasian Grebe

Having a rest.

A Willy Wagtail coming in to drink.

Male Magpie Lark

We did tackle the one longer walk at Ellery Creek, the Dolomite Walk. This walk is a 3km loop and is a Grade 3. It meanders up and down hills and affords really good views of the fascinating geology of the area. Eventually the walk drops down into the creek bed for the return to the campground.

Amazing textures.

Rock formations on the Dolomite Walk.

I finally got a shot of a Red-browed Pardalote toward the end of this walk.

As the last pools in the creek dry up, there is no hope for the doomed fish.

The easy to catch fish make a meal for this Australian Magpie.

Attempting mouth to mouth resuscitation?

Next it was back to Alice Springs for a visit to the Ilparpa Ponds - yes, that's the sewerage works!

Ormiston Gorge - Tjoritja/West Macdonnell National Park

25 – 28 August 2017

Our next stop was Ormiston Gorge. From the main road it is bitumen all the way to the visitor centre and campground. That, and the addition of a kiosk and easy access to the gorge and waterhole, make this a very popular spot, especially on weekends. We took the advice of reviewers and arrived early. 

There are 20 camp spots in the dusty and tight packed campground and we were lucky to get one on the end of a row, with some afternoon shade. The sites vary in size and some are quite short while others are on a slight slope. The facilities at Ormiston Gorge include hot showers and flushing toilets as well as a new, yet to be completed, barbecue area. The kiosk sells drinks and snacks as well as lunches. If you don't like crowds it would be best to avoid Ormiston Gorge on weekends in high season.

Grey Shrike-thrush in the camp ground.

Spinifex Pigeons are common around the camp ground.

There is just a short walk to the gorge and waterhole along a paved pathway. While on our way we stopped to chat to a local (Alice Springs) bird guide who suggested a couple of likely spots. We took his advice and walked further along the creek to some smaller waterholes where birds come in to drink. There is also the longer and harder Ormiston Pound Walk, which we were assured was worth it for those keen enough to attempt the 3 - 4 hour trek.

Early morning in the gorge.

Ormiston Gorge

Guide, Mark Carter told me where to look for a Spinifexbird. I found the bird (a new tick) but could not get a decent shot.

Wildflowers near the Spinifexbird site.

A very popular walk is the Ghost Gum Loop. This walk takes about an hour and involves multiple well-made stairs (with handrail) up to a lone ghost gum, with a magnificent viewing platform. From there you can return via the stairs or continue on along the ridge and finally down into the creek bed for the return to the starting point. This walk is a Grade 3 but we didn’t find it as difficult as some. There were lots of rocks to climb over, but they weren’t as difficult as the ones at Redbank Gorge.

The steep climb to Ghost Gum lookout is worth it for the view.

The spectacular view from the Ghost Gum lookout.

Male Painted Finch.

Painted finches come down from the spinifex covered ridges to drink at rock pools in the gorge.

Little Woodswallows were about at the top of the loop.

We came across two groups of Dusky Grasswrens on the Ghost Gum Loop. They weren't shy at all.

A black-footed Rock Wallaby catching some sun.

We enjoyed three nights at Ormiston Gorge, visiting the waterholes each day, and taking lots of bird photos. Our next stop was again only a short distance - Ellery Creek Big Hole.

Redbank Gorge - Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park

23 – 25 August 2017

The road in to Redbank Gorge is designated 4WD only and was in rough condition. The Woodland Campground is a couple of kilometres drive from the gorge and in a bushland setting. There are 15 campsites and a couple of long-drop toilets. The best part of this campground is that each campsite has its own fire pit with barbecue plate as well as a gas barbecue with two extra gas burners. There is also a picnic table at each site. All this for only $5 per person per night.

A well equipped campground.

We drove down to the Gorge and went for the Gorge Walk which starts off along the bank and then drops down into the creek bed. This walk required quite a bit of scrambling across rocks. I was wearing my hiking sandals and found it quite difficult in parts. There wasn’t much water at the waterhole but it was a nice spot to stop and relax.

Redbank Gorge.

This Australasian Grebe was hunting insects in the gorge.

Grey-headed Honeyeater. We found a small pool that was favoured by honeyeaters taking an afternoon drink and bath.

Brown Honeyeaters

White-plumed Honeyeater.

We surprised a Black-footed Rock Wallaby on our way back.

Black-footed Rock Wallaby

The following day we returned - this time wearing my hiking boots - and walked back up to the waterhole again. It was much easier with my boots on. We also took the short walk from the carpark up to the lookout for some fabulous views.
  
Although there was not a great variety of birds around the campground, there was a mixed flock of Southern Whiteface, Hooded Robins and Grey Fantails that would be seen foraging around each day. I also saw Red-capped Robins and Chestnut-rumped Thornbill. Mick.

Male Hooded Robin

Female Hooded Robin.

Southern Whiteface

Southern Whiteface

This is one of the best equipped campgrounds we've stayed at. There were a couple of problems though. The sites were all facing the wrong way (awnings of most vans and camper trailers would face the dusty road instead the BBQ area), leading me to believe that the 'one way' sign at the entrance was put in the wrong place. We ignored it. The other problem is one we have encountered before at Coffin Bay NP in South Australia, the presence of large numbers of bees looking for water. If one is careful, they are quite harmless but they are annoying and I was stung on the thumb this time. Mick.

Our kitchen tap.

The bees particularly like the washing up sponge.

Because we were aware we would be able to have a fire, we had stopped for firewood before we entered the national park. We made bread in the morning and a camp oven roast chicken and vegetables in the evening. It’s a great way to cook if you can get it right. The bread would have been nice of not for the burned top, but the roast was perfect. We’ll just have to keep practicing with the bread.

Too many coals on top of the camp oven spoiled the bread. Better luck next time.

Before we left in the morning we headed back to the day use area carpark for morning tea and to look for some birds Mick had seen the day before. The road to the day use area is very steep in parts and probably not suitable for those towing a caravan. There is another campground – Ridgetop – which is for tents only and not as well resourced.

I was hoping to photograph the male Crested Bellbird (female) at the day use area but he didn't show up.

Our next destination was just down the road - Ormiston Gorge, a very popular stop in the West Macdonnells.

Watarrka National Park – Kings Canyon

21 – 23 August 2017

From Yulara and Mount Conner Lookout, we drove on to the turnoff for Watarrka – Kings Canyon. The scenery was constantly changing as we headed first north, then north-west. We settled in to the campground, and had a nice view out to the canyon. There is a sunset viewing area on top of a dune, but we opted to take the short walk to the back fence, with many others, for almost the same view.

The range at sunset is an awesome sight.

In the morning we decided that we wouldn’t tackle the famous Kings Canyon Rim Walk – 6kms along the top of the canyon, after a climb of around 500 stairs. Not for me with my fear of heights, or for Mick with his dodgy knee. Instead we visited Kathleen Springs which is an easy 2.6km return walk to a waterhole. Kathleen Springs is accessed back down the road, almost at the entrance of the park. It's not as popular so wasn't crowded. The path is well made and finishes at the waterhole.

Later we drove to the main tourist centre and did the gentle Kings Creek Walk. We were a bit disappointed to find that the creek walk ends prematurely due to a rock fall which occurred in May 2016. Signs say they are working on a solution to allow walkers to again access the waterhole, but there is no indication when this may happen. The view from below up at the canyon walls is quite something to see – maybe not as spectacular as seeing it from on top, but the bonus was lots of birds along the way.

Kathleen Springs waterhole. So precious, a deep, clear spring surrounded by parched desert.

Male Hooded Robin on the Kathleen Springs walk.

This Grey Shrike Thrush was in the King's Canyon picnic area.

Anywhere there is water, there is birds. Female Zebra Finch.

Male Zebra Finch

Red-backed Kingfisher

Mistletoebird on the Kings Creek Walk.

People doing the rim walk above us.

Kings Canyon is on many people's "must see" list so there were lots of crowds around the walks and in the campground. We enjoyed our couple of nights but were keen to set off for places that might not be so crowded.

Christie desperately clawing at a cardboard wine cask to get at the alcohol inside.

Our journey next took us along the Mereenie Loop, a 4WD only road that links Kings Canyon with the West Macdonnell Ranges. A permit is required to travel this road so we called in to the office at the resort to obtain ours, only to be told they had none and that we would have to travel without one. The lady we spoke to said the Central Land Council hadn’t provided them. You should be able to obtain your permit at either end of the road (Kings Canyon or Glen Helen) or at the Visitor Information Centre in Alice Springs.

We set off along the bitumen which ended about 15kms past Kings Canyon Resort. The Mereenie Loop was in pretty rough condition when we drove the 143km, but still not what I would describe as 4WD only. Having said that I would not recommend taking a caravan or trailer that is not an off-road model. It was a pleasant enough drive, but with only one designated rest stop. It was signposted at the 5km out mark, but not at the actual stop. We think we found it – but there were no facilities at all. We stopped for a cuppa anyway, just to have a break.

We stopped for lunch once back on the bitumen at Tylers Pass Lookout. There is a picnic area at the top, and great views of Gosse Bluff Crater. From there we made our way to Redbank Gorge in Tjoritja/West Macdonnell National Park.