Uluru - Kata Tjuta National Park

16 – 21 August 2017

We turned west along the Lasseter Highway towards Uluru and our next stay. We stopped for a stretch at Kernot Range Rest Area (no toilets) which looks like a popular camping spot. We walked to the top of the dune and admired the views before pressing on.

I saw a Major Mitchell's Cockatoo so we pulled over. The Cockatoo flew but a flock of Budgies nearby was a consolation.

Black-faced Woodswallow

Our next stop was a bit of a surprise.  Mount Conner Lookout affords views of Mount Conner (surprise!)  but if you walk across the road and up the dune you will get a true surprise – an expansive system of salt lakes. We wouldn’t have thought to go up there except that some folk from a tour group were coming down when we arrived.

Mount Conner from the top of the dune.

In the opposite direction is a large salt lake.

The sand dune was covered in tracks but the makers were nowhere to be seen.

There is so much to see here in the red centre that we booked in advance for five nights, hoping to be able to see all the sights. On arrival at Yulara we set up our camp in between caravans – beside and behind us – then later on in the day noticed some nicer spots on the edge of the dune. We contemplated asking to move, which we eventually did the following morning. We were much happier with our new home – site 20. Any along this row would be great – except maybe 17 which is right next to the bins.

An awesome site on the way into Yulara, Kata Tjuta.

Walking up the well-made dune track to take in the sunset, carrying a glass of wine as is the custom.

Sun setting over Kata Tjuta.

The view from inside our camper trailer.

A visitor at camp. Long-nosed Dragon  (Amphibolurus longirostris)

We moved to this site backing on to a sand dune. There is a track to the top of this dune and an Uluru viewing area.

Native flowers on the top of the dune.

Eremophila flowers on the dune.

Our first decent view of Uluru, from the dune viewing area.

Male Black Honeyeater. A new bird for me was right behind our camp.

A Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike near the viewing area.

You can't camp in the National Park, so most people stay at Ayers Rock Resort at Yulara which has a range of accommodation types from 5 star to the campground. It is really a village with shops, fuel station, post office and eateries as well. The supermarket is well stocked and has fresh fruit and vegetables available. That was a pleasant surprise.

Ulura Katya Tjuta National Park

We set off for the National Park and stopped at the entrance station to purchase our passes. Because we were to be there for 5 nights we thought we would have to buy a yearly pass ($32.50 each), but were told we could buy the 3 day pass ($25 each) and come back to have them re-validated for the extra 2 days. That is great value and terrific service as far as I’m concerned.

Visitors receive a small amount of printed information about the park and I would recommend downloading the Uluru Birds app (for Apple and Android) prior to leaving home. Although this is aimed at those with an interest in birds it actually contains more information about walks and facilities than the information sheets we were given. All walks are shown on the maps, distances are indicated as is grading. It’s a free app and worth having.

Each day we visited various locations and completed a number of walks.

ULURU

Sunset Viewing – This became out most visited spot – for the views but also for the abundance of birdlife. We first visited on the afternoon we arrived in search of a particular bird, but ended up staying for the sunset. On that particular evening there were clouds in the west which made for some spectacular colours in the sky. The changing colours of Uluru were less spectacular due to the low cloud, but still worth a heap of photos. We stopped at this spot each time we visited the park – usually on our way in and out as Mick had a degree of success with the resident birds.

After not seeing cloud for weeks some rolled in to make the sky over Uluru a bit more interesting!

Variegated Fairy-wren

Male Crimson Chat at the sunset viewing area feeding in a Honey Grevillea (Grevillea eriostachya).

Female Crimson Chat.

Black-breasted Buzzard

Female Black Honeyeater

Native flowers

Wattle

I found this sleepy Military Dragon at the sunset viewing area.

Kuniya Walk – Mutitjulu Waterhole – This is an easy walk to the waterhole, with interpretative information along the way. There were a number of tour buses in the carpark when we arrived so the walk, although pleasant, was somewhat crowded for our liking. Along the way we saw art caves still in use today. This walk is only 1km return and a very easy Grade 1.

Ephemeral water course.

Mutitjulu Waterhole. It's very hard to get a sense of scale but it is a long way up to the top.

Art site on the waterhole walk.

Native pea flower.

Liru Walk – Cultural Centre to Mala carpark – This track winds through the mulga from the Cultural Centre to the base of Uluru. As spring had almost arrived we were treated to lots of wildflowers coming into bloom. This walk is 4.5km return and is an easy Grade 2.

Red-capped Robin female

We saw lots of Red-capped Robins on this walk.

Lots of people choose to ride hire bikes on these excellent tracks.

I couldn't get a clear shot of this Splendid Fairywren.

Mulla Mulla. This desert wildflower was common on the Liru walk.

Lungkata Walk – from the Kuniya Carpark to the Mala Carpark this walk takes visitors close to the rock and past a number of sensitive sites where photography and video are prohibited. This also forms part of the Uluru Base Walk and is an easy Grade 2 walk of 4km.

Amazing rock formations can be seen when you get close to Uluru.

Australian Ringneck

Female Crested Bellbird

Grey-headed Honeyeater

My first Red-backed Kingfisher of the trip. After this I saw quite a few more.

 Mala Walk – Kantju Gorge - This walk leaves from, and returns to, the Mala Carpark and is part of the Uluru Base Walk. It is a peaceful and pleasant walk with magnificent views of Uluru up close and some rock art sites. A 2km return easy walk, this is also the site of a daily ranger lead walk and talk. We didn’t take advantage of this but it would probably be worthwhile. Times are either 8:00 am or 10:00 am depending on the time of year.

Aboriginal art site.

The beginning of the walk.

Up close to Uluru.

Uluru Climb – I can’t write about Uluru without mentioning the climb. There are requests on printed material and on signage at the site that visitors not climb.

“Please Don’t Climb

Anangu, the traditional owners of Uluru, ask that you respect their culture and choose not to climb. Many visitors ask if climbing is disrespectful to Anangu, why don’t the traditional owners just close the climb?

Anangu people earn respect within their cultures by behaving in the ‘right way’. So traditional owners are politely asking visitors to show respect for their culture by also behaving in the right way and choosing not to climb.”

Despite this polite and reasonable request we saw many people climbing Uluru. Most astounding were those who chose to climb on a day when the climb was closed due to high winds at the summit. Absolutely unbelievable!

But still they climb!

Man with a mullet and nothing going on underneath it. Showing no respect for the traditional owners or his own safety.

KATA TJUTA

We decided to spend a whole day at Kata Tjuta so rose early and packed a picnic morning tea and lunch. Unfortunately the morning was very windy and cold, but we set off anyway.

Dune viewing area – Our first stop was this popular viewing area which afforded fabulous views to Kata Tjuta from a platform atop a dune. It would be very crowded at sunrise or sunset.

I don't think it's the best angle to capture Kata Tjuta from but it's the most accessible.

Sunset Viewing – we stopped for coffee and then later, lunch at the sunset viewing area as this is where the only toilets at Kata Tjuta are located. It’s a lovely picnic area with lots of covered tables and great views. A platform is available for sunset viewing.

Walpa Gorge – Walpa (windy) Gorge lived up to its name. It was blowing a gale – and the wind was freezing. We felt like we were back in Tasmania! The track is rocky and rises gently to an ephemeral stream. It’s only 2.6km but is a Grade 3 track (made harder by walking into the wind). The views were magnificent everywhere we turned which made it all worthwhile.

Setting off on the Walpa (windy) Gorge walk. I was cold despite being dressed like an Antarctic explorer.

Freezing cold and blowing a gale!

Toward the end of the walk.

Valley of the Winds – Karu Lookout – After morning tea we decided to have a look at this walk, not really intending to do it because of the wind. When we realised it is rated the same as the Walpa Gorge (Grade 3) and is slightly shorter at 2.2km return, we decided we might as well walk it. We were very glad we did. The walk was rocky and uphill, but not too difficult and again there were fabulous views all around. We only went as far as the first (Karu) lookout. Beyond that the track is a difficult Grade 4. We left that to those who were younger and fitter than us.

The day warmed up and the wind was not as bad for this walk. Be prepared to share with lots of tour groups.

Kata Tjuta means many heads which can be better appreciated when viewed from this angle.

TALINGURU NYAKUNYTJAKU

Minymaku Walk – Women’s Walk and WatikiWalk – Men’s Walk – We visited this spot first in the afternoon and walked along the path to the sunrise viewing platforms. The first part of the walk forms the Watiki Walk and the second part, the Minymaku Walk. An easy Grade one of a couple of kilometres in total. With great views of Uluru and Kata Tjuta beyond this is the popular sunrise viewing area.

The cloudiest day of our trip made for an interesting sunrise.

Worth getting out of bed for.

We decided to take in the sunrise one morning so set the alarm for 5:15 am so we would have plenty of time to drive the 25 minutes from the campground to Talinguru Nyakunytjaku. We left just after 6:00am and could see lots of others on the road. What a shock when we arrived – the platform was packed and it was almost impossible to get a spot where Mick could set up the tripod. The sun was just starting to show some colour in the sky and the presence of clouds again made for a spectacular colour show. We moved around a few times and finally settled on a spot lower down on the walkway where we were able to linger as the crowds dispersed.

A little light from the rising sun settled on Uluru but only briefly. The morning became quite dull after that.

After 5 magnificent days, we left Yulara before 10:00 am and, on our way out of the campground, noticed the electric brake controller for the camper trailer wasn’t working. A quick check revealed the indicator lights weren’t working either. Fortunately there is a mechanical service at Yulara so we headed over to Ayers Rock Automotive where Tony had us quickly back on the road. He showed Mick what the problem was and how to fix it should it happen again. Great service and very friendly staff. Many thanks to them.

We headed back down the road we had come in on, and again stopped at Mount Conner Lookout. First we had a coffee then ventured up the dune for some more photos of the salt lake, and to search for birds. We spent so long there, we ended up having lunch as well. It’s a lovely spot, but the walk up the dune to see the salt lake is not signposted so many people miss it. Such a shame.

A Nankeen Kestrel hunting above the dune.

White-backed Swallow. Not a good shot but better than none.

 Next, off to King's Canyon.