Watarrka National Park – Kings Canyon

21 – 23 August 2017

From Yulara and Mount Conner Lookout, we drove on to the turnoff for Watarrka – Kings Canyon. The scenery was constantly changing as we headed first north, then north-west. We settled in to the campground, and had a nice view out to the canyon. There is a sunset viewing area on top of a dune, but we opted to take the short walk to the back fence, with many others, for almost the same view.

The range at sunset is an awesome sight.

In the morning we decided that we wouldn’t tackle the famous Kings Canyon Rim Walk – 6kms along the top of the canyon, after a climb of around 500 stairs. Not for me with my fear of heights, or for Mick with his dodgy knee. Instead we visited Kathleen Springs which is an easy 2.6km return walk to a waterhole. Kathleen Springs is accessed back down the road, almost at the entrance of the park. It's not as popular so wasn't crowded. The path is well made and finishes at the waterhole.

Later we drove to the main tourist centre and did the gentle Kings Creek Walk. We were a bit disappointed to find that the creek walk ends prematurely due to a rock fall which occurred in May 2016. Signs say they are working on a solution to allow walkers to again access the waterhole, but there is no indication when this may happen. The view from below up at the canyon walls is quite something to see – maybe not as spectacular as seeing it from on top, but the bonus was lots of birds along the way.

Kathleen Springs waterhole. So precious, a deep, clear spring surrounded by parched desert.

Male Hooded Robin on the Kathleen Springs walk.

This Grey Shrike Thrush was in the King's Canyon picnic area.

Anywhere there is water, there is birds. Female Zebra Finch.

Male Zebra Finch

Red-backed Kingfisher

Mistletoebird on the Kings Creek Walk.

People doing the rim walk above us.

Kings Canyon is on many people's "must see" list so there were lots of crowds around the walks and in the campground. We enjoyed our couple of nights but were keen to set off for places that might not be so crowded.

Christie desperately clawing at a cardboard wine cask to get at the alcohol inside.

Our journey next took us along the Mereenie Loop, a 4WD only road that links Kings Canyon with the West Macdonnell Ranges. A permit is required to travel this road so we called in to the office at the resort to obtain ours, only to be told they had none and that we would have to travel without one. The lady we spoke to said the Central Land Council hadn’t provided them. You should be able to obtain your permit at either end of the road (Kings Canyon or Glen Helen) or at the Visitor Information Centre in Alice Springs.

We set off along the bitumen which ended about 15kms past Kings Canyon Resort. The Mereenie Loop was in pretty rough condition when we drove the 143km, but still not what I would describe as 4WD only. Having said that I would not recommend taking a caravan or trailer that is not an off-road model. It was a pleasant enough drive, but with only one designated rest stop. It was signposted at the 5km out mark, but not at the actual stop. We think we found it – but there were no facilities at all. We stopped for a cuppa anyway, just to have a break.

We stopped for lunch once back on the bitumen at Tylers Pass Lookout. There is a picnic area at the top, and great views of Gosse Bluff Crater. From there we made our way to Redbank Gorge in Tjoritja/West Macdonnell National Park.