Trephina Gorge Nature Park - East MacDonnell Ranges

10 – 12 August 2017

We had been told by a number of different friends that Trephina Gorge in the East MacDonnells is a must see - so we had it on the list as our first stop out of Alice Springs. This is a Nature  Park and is only about 75km along a mostly bitumen road. After a quick return visit to Olive Pink Botanic Gardens in search of the Western Bower Bird visiting his bower, we were on the road to the gorge by mid-morning. 

Along the way we stopped at Yeperenye / Emily Gap and Jessie Gap – both beautiful spots with picnic areas. This area is of significance to the Central Arrente people and is part of the caterpillar dreaming story. Visitors are asked not to touch or photograph the Aboriginal art.

On arrival at Trephina Gorge we made our way to Panorama Campground – one of several in the park – and set up camp. We paid our camping fee of $3.30 per person per night and amazed at the value for money.

Unlike Queensland, you don’t have to book a campsite in advance, and unlike Victoria, the price is very modest.

Having a sundowner with an awesome view.

There are a number of walks in this park and we chose the easy Gorge Stroll as our first one. This is really just a walk along the creek bed – although it is a good workout walking the 500 metres return along the soft sand. We walked as far as the semi-permanent waterhole and lingered as a few small birds ventured down for a drink, and we watched the resident python slide in and out of the water for a while. Later in the afternoon we marvelled at the changing colours of the gorge wall viewed from our campsite.

Stimson's python

The Milky Way is amazing on the dark clear nights.

Our camp was often visited by a large group of White-plumed Honeyeaters.

Spiny-cheeked Honeyeater coming for a drink at our bucket.

Pied Butcherbird in for a drink.

Yellow-throated Miner

I put some water in a collapsible bucket and positioned it under a sapling with a suitable perch, set up my camera on the tripod and put the kettle on. By the time my tea was made, a group of keen eyed White-plumed Honeyeaters were cautiously checking out the water. Nothing escapes their attention. Satisfied they were in no danger, they began to fly down in twos and threes for a drink. Soon after they were briefly joined by a Spiny-cheeked Honeyeater. The honeyeaters fled as a Pied Butcherbird marched up and took a long slow drink. When it had finished it was the turn of the Yellow-throated Miners. All afternoon these birds came and went. Peaceful doves wandered around like little wind up toys, feeding and calling near the water, but didn't drink. Australian Ringnecks fed nearby as well. Such a peaceful, relaxing way to spend a warm afternoon. I can recommend it! 

The people in the next camp were birders from Victoria. They had managed to see Red-browed Pardelotes, a bird I was keen to photograph. Frustratingly, I heard Red-broweds calling fairly regularly but could either not find them or I would catch a brief glimpse of one departing the tree and heading for the horizon. This was to become a regular theme. Mick

In the morning we decided to walk the Panorama Walk. We both found the first section of this 2.5km loop walk quite challenging – especially me. I don’t do heights very well and the rocky path and stairs seemed quite unstable at times. But it was oh, so worth it. Once at the top the view was astounding, and the walk back down was much easier. When we returned to the information boards we checked again and noticed we had just completed a Grade 4 walk – normally we don’t even consider attempting anything higher than a Grade 3. I suppose it’s just as well we didn’t know in advance or we would have missed out on this one.

The stunning view was a good excuse to have a short break.

Close to the top.

A Panorama from the Panorama walk.

Masked Woodswallow

Later in the day we headed off on the Grade 3 Trephina Gorge Walk. At only 2km, this loop promised to be shorter and easier than the Panorama. Getting to the top of the gorge was quite strenuous, but from there the rocky path meandered up and down, but not too close to the edge. We made lots of stops to enjoy the view and take lots of photos, as well as to search for birds. The walk finishes back in the creek bed, a little further on than we had walked the previous day.

The only water on the walk we did.

Christie begins the descent into a rocky valley.

Just to show the scale.

The gorge.

After two magnificent nights at Trephina Gorge it was off to Ross River in the morning.