Tjoritja National Park, Ormiston Gorge

 7 – 10 May 2022

We left Redbank Gorge and headed east towards Alice Springs, stopping along the way at the Mount Sonder Lookout. There is a magnificent view of the ranges as well as a down to the Finke River below. There is camping along the river but there is no infrastructure at all and access is along the sandy river bed. From there we continued on to Ormiston Gorge.

We arrived at the campground just on 10:00am and found there were lots of sites available – although not all were very level. We chose Site 1 – right next to the one we had stayed on last time we visited. It didn’t take long to get set up and a cuppa going – with leftover scones. After lunch we wandered down to the gorge and were surprised to see the amount of water. There had been significant rain some months ago and the creek still had plenty of water. The small waterholes where birds came down to drink were larger and more numerous.

In the morning we set off on the Ghost Gum Walk. The walk goes up to a lookout near a lone ghost gum, and has great views into the gorge. From there we could see just how much water was still in the creek. After the lookout the walk follows the creek line along a ridge and eventually comes down into the gorge. The walk then continues across to the other side of the gorge, except at this time that would have necessitated a swim through some very cold and quite deep water. We opted to return the way we had come making it just over 3km in total.

After lunch we headed back into the gorge again for a session with the camera in the hope of finding the painted finches that were there in numbers when we visited a few years ago. No luck with the finches but Mick happily photographed Little Woodswallows instead.

We awoke on Monday morning to overcast skies and cooler temperatures. We decided to wait and see if the sky would clear before making our minds up about going out for a drive. We waited until morning tea and with no improvement we headed down to the café for a very nice morning tea. The sky remained overcast until well after lunch time. A patch of blue appeared but didn’t last long so we spent the rest of the day at camp.

We packed up and set off from Ormiston Gorge at 9:30am the next morning, with plenty of time to stop along the way to Alice Springs.

Tjoritja National Park, Redbank Gorge – Woodland Campground

 4 – 7 May 2022

We set off from Kings Canyon along the Mereenie Loop road which was not in great condition this time. Last time it wasn’t too bad, but this time it was quite corrugated and there were quite a few small washouts as well as a couple of patches of bulldust. Nothing too drastic, but it did make for a slow and challenging drive. We stopped at the only designated rest area for a late morning tea then continued on. Instead of going into Alice Springs we took the turn that would take us into the West MacDonnell Ranges and our next destination – Redbank Gorge.

Before entering Tjoritja National Park we stopped and collected some firewood which we knew we would need with forecast lows of 6° overnight on two of the nights we would be there. We had booked our campsite in the Woodland Campground for three nights and arrived mid-afternoon.

In the morning we headed the few kilometres down the road to the gorge for the walk. It’s an out and back walk, rated Grade 3, with some walking on sand in the river bed, as well as some fairly serious rock hopping. We stopped for a while at a small waterhole before continuing to the large waterhole at the end of the walk. We returned to the carpark and made coffee at the picnic area before driving back to camp.

We returned to the gorge the following morning and again went for the walk then had coffee at the picnic area. We enjoyed some beautiful weather but the nights were very cold. We lit the fire and sat around enjoying the atmosphere with very few people around. Friday was my birthday so we cooked dinner over the fire and Mick made date scones in the camp oven. It was a lovely way to spend a birthday.

On Saturday morning we packed everything up, cleaned up the barbecue plate over the firepit and headed off to Ormiston Gorge. You cannot book camping sites there so we just hoped we would be there at the right time to get a spot.

Redbank Gorge - Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park

23 – 25 August 2017

The road in to Redbank Gorge is designated 4WD only and was in rough condition. The Woodland Campground is a couple of kilometres drive from the gorge and in a bushland setting. There are 15 campsites and a couple of long-drop toilets. The best part of this campground is that each campsite has its own fire pit with barbecue plate as well as a gas barbecue with two extra gas burners. There is also a picnic table at each site. All this for only $5 per person per night.

A well equipped campground.

We drove down to the Gorge and went for the Gorge Walk which starts off along the bank and then drops down into the creek bed. This walk required quite a bit of scrambling across rocks. I was wearing my hiking sandals and found it quite difficult in parts. There wasn’t much water at the waterhole but it was a nice spot to stop and relax.

Redbank Gorge.

This Australasian Grebe was hunting insects in the gorge.

Grey-headed Honeyeater. We found a small pool that was favoured by honeyeaters taking an afternoon drink and bath.

Brown Honeyeaters

White-plumed Honeyeater.

We surprised a Black-footed Rock Wallaby on our way back.

Black-footed Rock Wallaby

The following day we returned - this time wearing my hiking boots - and walked back up to the waterhole again. It was much easier with my boots on. We also took the short walk from the carpark up to the lookout for some fabulous views.
  
Although there was not a great variety of birds around the campground, there was a mixed flock of Southern Whiteface, Hooded Robins and Grey Fantails that would be seen foraging around each day. I also saw Red-capped Robins and Chestnut-rumped Thornbill. Mick.

Male Hooded Robin

Female Hooded Robin.

Southern Whiteface

Southern Whiteface

This is one of the best equipped campgrounds we've stayed at. There were a couple of problems though. The sites were all facing the wrong way (awnings of most vans and camper trailers would face the dusty road instead the BBQ area), leading me to believe that the 'one way' sign at the entrance was put in the wrong place. We ignored it. The other problem is one we have encountered before at Coffin Bay NP in South Australia, the presence of large numbers of bees looking for water. If one is careful, they are quite harmless but they are annoying and I was stung on the thumb this time. Mick.

Our kitchen tap.

The bees particularly like the washing up sponge.

Because we were aware we would be able to have a fire, we had stopped for firewood before we entered the national park. We made bread in the morning and a camp oven roast chicken and vegetables in the evening. It’s a great way to cook if you can get it right. The bread would have been nice of not for the burned top, but the roast was perfect. We’ll just have to keep practicing with the bread.

Too many coals on top of the camp oven spoiled the bread. Better luck next time.

Before we left in the morning we headed back to the day use area carpark for morning tea and to look for some birds Mick had seen the day before. The road to the day use area is very steep in parts and probably not suitable for those towing a caravan. There is another campground – Ridgetop – which is for tents only and not as well resourced.

I was hoping to photograph the male Crested Bellbird (female) at the day use area but he didn't show up.

Our next destination was just down the road - Ormiston Gorge, a very popular stop in the West Macdonnells.

Alice Springs

6 - 10 August 2017

Has someone been feeding the local Ringnecks do you think?

We planned to stay in Alice for 4 nights to allow time to see a few of the local sites, to do some housekeeping and get ready for the next part of our adventure. After setting up camp we went into "town" to the visitor information centre - as usual - and to have a bit of a look around. Armed with some pamphlets and maps we planned our next few days, with a focus on looking for birds of course.

Australian Ringnecks make themselves at home at the caravan park.

...so do Galahs like this one on our car roof.

A party of Grey-crowned Babblers live around the park.

Little Crow (I could be wrong with this individual but did have some unmistakable sightings). Another new bird!

Alice Springs Desert Park

A few kilometres out of town, this park is a fabulous place to visit. We spent about 5 hours there wandering around the various habitats (Sand Country, Desert Rivers and Woodland) and enjoying the magnificent view of the West MacDonnell Ranges. I particularly enjoyed the Nocturnal House - although I did bypass the spiders. It was well set out, with lots of interesting exhibits. There are a number of different presentations throughout the day, but we didn't participate in any, preferring to do our own thing.

One of their captive Emus.

A Pygmy Goanna in the excellent nocturnal house.

Sturt's Desert Pea in the sand country section.

The drifts of wild flowers are a boon for bees.

Silver-grey gumnuts (possibly Blue Leaved Mallee).

A Singing Honeyeater, appropriately enough on a Honey Grevillea.

One of the most common birds on this inland trip. White-plumed Honeyeater.

Sand country wild flowers with the MacDonnell Ranges in the background.

Sand country.

Olive Pink Botanic Gardens

New bird number two, the Western Bowerbird.

Western Bowerbird at the bower.

Where there are plants there are birds. That’s the theory anyway, so we headed off to the Olive Pink Botanic Gardens fairly early in the day. There are a number of walks and after making the $5 donation requested and receiving a lovely guide book, we oriented ourselves and chose to go on the Hill Walk which promised – and delivered – spectacular panoramic views of Alice Springs. A little bit rough, and challenging in parts, with quite a few stairs, this walk was a good way to start the day. The views were indeed magnificent and well worth the effort to get to the top of the hill.

At the top looking towards The Gap.

The only wildlife on the hill walk was this Kangaroo.

On our return to the bottom we stopped at the on-site café for a coffee. From there we split up – Mick to spend more time in the gardens while I went to the Pioneer Women’s Hall of Fame, a short distance away.

National Pioneer Women’s Hall of Fame Museum and Old Alice Springs Gaol

I have read lots of biographies and autobiographies of pioneering women – some from relatively recent times – so was very interested to visit the hall of fame. I found it a fascinating place and great value for money at only $10 entrance fee. Founded by Molly Clark (of Old Andado) and housed in the former Alice Springs Gaol precinct the Hall of Fame showcases many local pioneering women as well as a comprehensive display of Australian women’s “firsts”. Such a rich history of women’s achievement which is being added to and updated all the time. From these displays housed in the old gaol kitchen and dining building, I wandered over to another display gallery housed in the former clinic. There is a permanent display of women’s work, and from time to time (but not this time) a visiting exhibition.

From there I went to the old women’s prison. What a marvellous exhibition, rich with the personal stories of staff and inmates. Matron Muldoon was a very forward thinking woman who instigated many initiatives in her time. I was told on arrival that, well into her 90’s, she is still involved in the board which administers the site. Quite an amazing woman.

Unfortunately I hadn’t left myself any time to look around the men’s prison section so I may have to return another time. There is also a small gift shop which sells art and craft work made by inmates of the present-day prison. There were some very beautiful pieces for sale.

Old Telegraph Station

After some lunch and housekeeping we drove out to the Alice Springs Historical Reserve where the Alice Springs Telegraph Station is located, in search of a walk that may be a good spot for birdwatching. We set off along the Riverside Walk which actually takes you all the way back into town. We only went as far as the junction with the Bradshaw walk. Although it didn’t produce any great bird photos it was a very pleasant afternoon walk along the banks of the (dry) Todd River. We spent a little while wandering around the grassed picnic areas around the Old Tele Station before heading home.

Juvenile Pied Butcherbird.

Weebill, Australia's smallest bird. These were common but I dipped on Redthroat that were supposed to be around.

Simpson’s Gap: Tjoritja / West MacDonnell Ranges National Park

We decided on an early start for our day trip to Simpson’s Gap so set the alarm for 6:00 am. Not only was the early start a shock to the system, the 3.2°C certainly woke us up. With a quick breakfast we arrived at Simpson’s Gap (with only a couple of short stops to photograph the West MacDonnell Ranges and to try to photograph a wedge-tailed eagle along the way) around 8:00 am and it was still only about 4°C, but the wind was also blowing hard through the Gap. We braved the cold and walked along the Creekbed Walk path and into Simpson’s Gap. Everywhere we turned there was another fabulous view.

Early morning sun on the Gap, Alice Springs.

As the sun came up the moon went down behind the West MacDonnell Ranges.

Wedge-tailed Eagle on the way in to Simpson’s Gap.

Not much water left here.

Simpson's Gap

Simpson's Gap

The guide books promised Redthroat were common along this walk. The only bird seen was a lone Grey Shrike-thrush.

Simpson's Gap from the Cassia Walk.

The MacDonnell Ranges from the Cassia Walk.

Signs promised Black-footed Rock Wallabies but we didn't see any - they were probably and sensibly, still snug in their rock holes. After a while wandering around we drove back down the road to walk the Cassia Walk - a 1.5km "moderate" loop walk to the top of a hill. Again, great views but a little challenging at times.

We moved on from Simpson’s Gap to Standley Chasm for morning tea, but returned later in the day for lunch in the picnic ground and to have another look for the rock wallabies. This time we were successful. Mick’s keen eye spotted first one, then a couple more, up on the rocks. He was able to get a couple of good photos. He was also able to point out these beautiful creatures to a couple of very grateful international tourists.

Black footed Rock Wallaby with Joey.

Dusky Grasswren. My third new bird for the trip. First seen at Standley Chasm, I had better views at Simpson's Gap.

On the way out of the Simpson's Gap section of the park after lunch, we stopped to enjoy the Ghost Gum Walk - an easy 15 minute stroll.

Wild flowers on the Ghost Gum Walk.

Angkerle Atwatye Standley Chasm

After our early – and cold – morning at Simpson’s Gap, we drove on to Standley Chasm for morning tea. This area is Aboriginal owned so a fee is charged to visit the chasm. Formed by ancient seabeds 2.2 billion years ago this is another fascinating insight into Australia's rich geological history. There is a nice café and camping is also permitted in the carpark area.

The inner walls of the chasm seem to glow.

Standley Chasm

 It’s an easy day trip from Alice Springs and another place worth a visit. The path up to the chasm is an easy 20 minutes return walk although we took much longer. Standley Chasm was very busy the morning we visited – perhaps the lure of a café and camping brought in many more visitors than Simpson’s Gap just down the road. We opted to return to Simpson’s Gap for lunch in the spacious picnic area.