Home Again

7 - 8 May

We left Winton early (for us) and made our way to our last camp at White Mountains National Park. Good plan - but it wasn't to be. After a stop in Hughenden, we arrived at White Mountains NP in time for lunch. After lunch, and before we set up camp properly, we headed off for a drive up Poison Valley Road (no kidding!). The start of the drive was over a sand dune, and so quite difficult, but after that it was just an ordinary rough narrow track. We drove for about 10kms without any interesting bird sightings (Mick was looking for flowering gums or grevilleas), then made our way back to camp. 

That's when we had our second mishap for the whole trip. We had set up camp and were about to make a cup of tea (something that has become a camp tradition) when we had a gas leak. There's not supposed to be flame coming from where the gas hose joins the stove, but that's what we had. We tried a new "O" ring (what a battle that was!), but it made it worse, so we packed up camp and set off for Charters Towers for the night. 

We made the short trip home to Townsville on Friday morning - then started unpacking and cleaning all the gear. Our great adventure had many memorable moments and only two mishaps. 

We travelled around 13 000 kilometres in 74 days. We had allowed funds to stay in some special places and came in under budget. We stayed in caravan parks, cottages, motels, lodges, with friends and family, in National Parks and in the bush. We experienced temperatures ranging from 40 degrees to 1 degree. We had a wonderful adventure and can't wait to pack up and hit the road again.

Winton

5 - 7 May

We decided to have a couple of nights in a motel in Winton as a treat for my birthday - and because it was getting too hot to camp. Even though it was nearly the end of autumn, the temperatures were in the low thirties during the day. We had a look around and chose the Outback Motel - close to the shops and pubs, recently updated and reasonably priced. We were able to check in straight away, even thought it was only lunchtime.

We spent the afternoon wandering through the shops (well, it didn't really take that long) and catching up on washing, reading and processing photos - all in air conditioned comfort.

A pair of Brolgas were hanging around the motel hoping for a hand out.

In the morning we made the short trip (about 28 km) to the Australian Age of Dinosaurs - a showcase for the local prehistoric inhabitants. This centre has only been open for a few years and has evolved out of a farmer's passion for the fossilised dinosaur bones he was finding on his property. David and Judy Elliott have embraced their unique finds and have lead the development of this special exhibit.

The building housing the collection room, gift shop and cafe is well designed, borrowing from the surrounding environment.

A view from the top of the jump up.

Visitors are taken on two guided tours - the collection room and the laboratory. This is the only place you can see the specimens being prepared. Each tour takes about 30 minutes with a 30 minute break in between.

On the day we visited, the 10.00 tour was of the collection room where real (not replica) fossils of "Banjo" (a theropod dinosaur) and "Matilda" (a sauropod dinosaur) are on display. Each is the first of its type of dinosaur to be found. The enthusiasm and passion of our young guide was amazing. It seems when you work in the museum, you are also part of the team going into the field collecting specimens and then preparing them back in the lab. No wonder there is so much enthusiasm among the staff.

The fossilised leg bones of Matilda contrasting with the thigh bone of a Brahman bull.

Grace was our ebullient guide in the collection room.

The 11.00 tour was to the laboratory, where you get to see the giant casings containing yet to be processed bones (and other fossils). The centre has an extensive and well set up volunteer program. It was a real treat to see them at work and chat to them about their passion.  Australian Age of Dinosaurs is a non-for- profit organisation and registered charity.

Guide Carlin talks us through the displays in the lab shed.

He prefers to work on delicate fossils such as small crabs and shells.

Volunteers at their delicate and painstaking work, removing the surrounding stone from ancient fossils.

Carlin shows us how it's done (slowly and carefully!).

Now there's another dinosaur in Christie's life.

This is a very interesting way to to spend a few hours and in a beautifully rugged setting.

Bladensburg National Park

4 - 5 May

We left Opalton, bound for Bladensburg National Park, not far from Winton, so it was back along the dirt road. We stopped for some bird photos of course, and arrived in time for lunch.

It was hot enough to have us seriously consider swimming in the muddy water.

We found a campsite at Bough Shed Hole Campground, right by the waterhole. Even though it was very hot, it was still a really nice place to camp. There was only us and one other couple camped nearby so it was a peaceful place to stay overnight.

In the morning we drove along the Route of the River Gums (the main road through the park) back towards Winton. We couldn't resist a stop at Skull Hole! Once we arrived back in Winton we chose a motel for the next two nights - a special treat for my birthday!

Sounds nice, let's go!

Viewed at a distance, clumps of Spinifex soften the harsh landscape but up close they are needle sharp and to be avoided.

Christie looks over the edge at Skull Hole.

Opalton

3 – 4 May

We stopped in Longreach for coffee, groceries and visitor information. Unfortunately they didn't have much on Opalton so we had to stop in Winton for more detail. At Winton we were able to find out that there is only one way to get there (despite our RACQ map showing a number of minor roads – station tracks perhaps). We had a picnic lunch in one of the town parks and set off for Opalton. It’s less than 10km to the turnoff and from there it’s all unsealed (about 105km). The road started off fairly good, but deteriorated as we neared our destination. It wasn't awful, but quite corrugated and rocky in parts.

Hall's Babbler. I now have pics of all the Babbler species.

We found our way to the bush camp provided and maintained by the community. It has toilets and showers heated by a donkey boiler, as well as a screened shed with tables and chairs which provides relief from the incessant flies. Great value for $2.50 per person per night. It was however, hot, dry and dusty – but what you should expect when you go to places like this.

These dapper looking little birds were almost tame in the camp ground.

Singing Honeyeater.

Inland Thornbill.

Mick was excited to see Spinifex pigeons wandering around the campground. We had a pleasant evening (once the flies went to bed) with only a couple of locals (opal miners we guessed) camped nearby.  Next stop Bladensberg National Park, with plenty of stops to photograph birds on the way.

Rufous-crowned Emu-Wren. Not a great pic but much better than none and a lifer to boot!

Jo, a fellow birder we met at Bowra suggested that we should visit Opalton some time. We decided there was no time like the present and took her advice. She said it was a good place to find Spinifexbird, Rufous-crowned Emu-wren and the elusive Hall's Babbler. We struck out on the Spinifexbird but found the Babblers on the way out and the Emu Wrens on the way back, two out of three ain't bad! Mick.

Lara Station

1 – 3 May

Dead trees in the wetland on a calm morning.

We had been told about this spot sometime last year so decided it might be worth a visit. On arrival we found our way to the wetland and chose a camp spot – there were only three other caravans there, one of which belonged to the caretaker, so we anticipated a peaceful couple of days, and we were right. Lara Wetland is a lovely, quiet spot. Bill, the caretaker visited late in the afternoon to collect our camping fee ($10 per person per night).

More reflections.

Our camp viewed from the far side of the wetland.

There is no shortage of fire wood around the grounds.

Our camp spot was right on the edge of what was once an ephemeral wetland but is now fed constantly by an artesian bore. There are showers and toilets, as well as a hot artesian pool and camp kitchen. Pretty good value for money. Owner Jo visited in the morning for a yarn. Lara Station Wetlands is a very peaceful spot and has been open for less than a year, but Jo has plans to keep improving the facilities to attract visitors. Looks like she is on the right track.

The highlight of our Lara visit for me was finding a small flock of  Plum-headed Finches feeding on grass seed close to our camp. I had only ever seen one of these before and that was many years ago. Also notable are the, very common, Brown Treecreepers and the large flock of Tree Martins that hawk over the water in the early morning and evening. Galahs also come in to drink in significant numbers, preferring to perch on dead timber surrounded by water.

Ducks kept to the far side of the wetland out of reach of my camera. Black-winged Stilts, Black-fronted Dotterels, a Red-kneed Dotterel and Masked Lapwings cautiously passed us at the water's edge from time to time. A bird list is kept in the camp kitchen but the Plum-headed Finch was not mentioned. Mick.

It was great to get a pic of a Plum-headed Finch.

Black-winged Stilt.

Brown Treecreepers hopped right into our camp at times.

Very common in western Queensland is the Red-winged Parrot.

We left early in the morning with a big day’s drive ahead of us – aiming to get through Winton and on to Opalton for the night.

Charleville

29 April – 1 May

The weather forecast predicted rain for the part of the country we were travelling through so we decided on the cottage at Charleville Bush Caravan Park. This was a good decision as the forecast was correct and the cottage was great. Not quite in a bush setting, but out of town on a large property, the cottage had everything we needed, and Mick was invited to walk wherever he wanted on the property to take photographs.

I didn't do much bird photography here preferring to catch up on some editing instead. I did notice Weebill, Yellow Thornbill, Yellow-rumped Thornbill, Chestnut-rumped Thornbill, Black-faced Cookoo-shrike, Crested Pigeon and Spinny-cheeked Honeyeater close to the cottage. Mick.

Weebill.

The back of a storm that passed over us bringing welcome rain to a parched landscape.

We stocked up on supplies in town and settled in for a couple of relaxing days. This was a bit of an indulgence, but we figured we deserved it after seven days in the tent.

We left at about 9 on Friday morning bound for Lara Station, between Blackball and Barcaldine, stopping for coffee in Augathella and supplies in Tambo, arriving at the camp spot in the early afternoon.

Bowra Bird Sanctuary - near Cunnamulla

25 - 29 April 

Birders focus on a beautiful Major Mitchell's Cockatoo as it contemplates a drink in the lagoon.

Bowra had been on Mick's "must do" list for some time, so it was an easy choice for a few days' camping. The property is only a few kilometres outside Cunnamulla (which was completely closed for Anzac Day). On arrival the caretakers provided maps and tips about the best birding spots. Roads loop all around the property so there would be lots for Mick to do. We selected a camp spot by the lagoon where there was lots of bird activity. Most visitors are birders so there was lots of information shared.

Chestnut-crowned Babbler close to camp.

A Red-kneed Dotterel only metres from our camp by the lagoon.

The facilities are basic but adequate and our camp spot by the lagoon was perfect. There are a number of other accommodation options including a cottage and rooms in the old shearers' quarters. A cold wind was blowing when we set up camp, but it died down overnight. 

We spent our time each day driving the many tracks in search of birds to photograph. In the evening, a "bird call" is held where visitors nominate the species (and numbers) they have identified during the day. Mick attended a couple of these get-togethers.

Blue Bonnets

Major Mitchell's Cockatoo

Mulga Parrots were seen regularly though not in great numbers.

Galah

On Monday we headed into Cunnamulla to stock up on supplies, refill the gas bottle and get cash. Cunnamulla isn't well serviced by banks and the ATM at the supermarket wasn't working (and they wouldn't do cash-out) but the lovely lady at the tyre centre (where we had the gas bottle refilled) directed us to the pub with an ATM. We decided on lunch "in town" so went to the Boulders Coffee Shop. Nice food, good, friendly service. 

Painted Honeyeater in the distance, a lifer for me.

Bowra is such a lovely and peaceful spot we decided to spend an extra day, making it four nights in total. Even though I'm not a bird watcher, I found it easy to enjoy the surrounds - and catch up on some reading.

Formerly a sheep station, Bowra is now an Australian Wildlife Conservancy property that allows members of the public to visit and stay for a reasonable fee. Ongoing work is being carried out to control or eradicate the many pest species that have become established here. We commonly saw feral cats, goats and pigs as well as evidence of cattle on our drives around the place. There are also lots of native animals.

An Echidna has a rest before resuming its quest for ants.

The birds I most wanted to see and hopefully photograph at Bowra were the Bourke's Parrot, Chestnut-breasted Quail-thrush and Hall's Babbler. Well... that didn't go well at all and I dipped on all of them. There were eighteen other birders visiting at the same time as us and most of them did manage to see two of these species. The Quail-thrush was staying completely hidden to the best of my knowledge. I'll just have to go back again.

Little Woodswallow.

Black-faced Woodswallow.

White-browed Woodswallow.

Striped Honeyeater

Southern Whiteface. Seen in a mixed flock of Thornbills.

On the positive side, there were plenty of birds and animals to see and appreciate in a very rugged, harsh and beautiful part of the country. Kangaroos and Emus roam the property in large numbers and it is essential to be vigilant while driving as they can burst from cover and shoot across the track without warning.

We sat by the cottage dam on a couple of afternoons in the hope of seeing Bourke's Parrots come in to drink. Lots of Spotted Bowerbirds, Galahs, Emus, Cockatoos and White-plumed Honeyeaters did come in but no Bourke's. What a great way to spend a couple of hours though, watching cautious animals and birds coming in to drink in the golden afternoon light, especially with a beer or two to settle the day's dust.

We saw hundreds of Emus on the property.

A Red Kangaroo bathed in the last light of the day.

A Spotted Bowerbird hears the camera clicking while about to bathe.

Most of our short stay was spent driving the network of roads through different vegetation types looking for bird movement. Once birds were spotted I would get out and investigate while Christie read her book. The rest of the time there was usually something to watch back at our camp on the edge of the lagoon, like Yellow-billed Spoonbills or passing raptors, a Glossy Ibis flew in one day.

Christie reading while I hunt Babblers.

Yellow-billed Spoonbill

Black-fronted Plover

A Zebra Finch is plucked and devoured by a Brown Goshawk in a tree beside the lagoon.

Thornbills were often encountered in country with low/medium scrub. For years I have put off trying to identify these tiny brown birds but decided to have a serious go this time. There are about five possible on the property. I've found the camera is a wonderful aid to identifying these difficult species. That's if you can get a decent shot of course.  My arms were often aching and weak from attempting to follow the perpetual motion of these tiny targets with my heavy gear but I came away with a few shots and IDs for the effort. Mick.

Red-capped Robins were encountered on most excursions.

Jacky Winter. There's no shortage of these at Bowra.

Hooded Robin

Common Bronzewing

Inland Thornbill

Yellow Thornbill

Chestnut-rumped Thornbill.

We finally set off on Wednesday morning headed for Charleville, but we did stop at the Boulders Coffee Shop to do some online work (gold coin donation to charity) and have a coffee. Great coffee and fast internet. Fabulous!