Cape Hillsborough

28 - 30 August

We arrived mid-afternoon and spent the afternoon familiarising ourselves with the beach and surrounds, and planning the next day's activities. We picked up a National Parks brochure and decided on a couple of walks.

Sculptural volcanic rock formations on the beach

Our first destination in the morning was the mangrove boardwalk - Diversity Boardwalk - just a short drive from the caravan park. It's a well laid out trail - with boardwalk for the first section, then gravel path for the rest. All up an easy 1.2km, with lots of seats placed at regular intervals so you can sit and enjoy the surrounds.

Female Olive-backed Sunbird

Mangrove flower

We decided to check out a National Park camping area we had read about. Smalley's Beach camp ground has a number of large, shady camp sites right on the beach. Each site has a picnic table and there are toilets but no water. Definitely one to keep in mind. 

Smalley's Beach in front of NP campground

From the beach we could see houses to the north and decided to head over there - assuming it was Seaforth, a nearby village, that we could see, but the "Crazy Woman" struck again and we ended up on a no through road, then another residential area, but not Seaforth! We turned back and stopped for coffee and carrot cake at the tea rooms on Cape HIllsborough Road. Well worth a stop - great cake, good coffee and a beautiful setting in an old railway station building.

In the park behind the Cape HIllsborough beach you are likely to see Wallabies, and Emerald Doves

Agile wallaby with joey

 After lunch back at the cabin, we ventured out on the Beachcomber Cove Track which takes you up over the headland to a beach. A gentle climb on "partly sealed" (read lumpy bitumen) track, with some great views, lots of birds and butterflies (for the photographer) and a deserted beach at the end. Just perfect!

 

Female Eggfly

Eastern Brow Crow

Because it was low tide we were able to walk back along the beach, but at high tide you have to go back the way you came.

On our final morning, Mick arose early to go to the beach to photograph the sunrise. Thinking he would be the only one there, he stumbled down the track, half asleep, only to see he was but one of many dozens. Seems it's a popular thing to do. 

We made another visit to the Diversity (Mangrove) Boardwalk in the hope of capturing the Mangrove Golden Whistler but without success. He did manage to photograph a shy Noisy Pitta and the spectacular Wompoo Fruit-Dove instead. 

Wompoo Fruit-Dove

• Great walks through diverse habitats including mangroves, woodland and vine scrub
• Excellent beach with wonderful photo opportunities
• Good birding

Eungella

25 - 28 August 2014

We're on the road again - this time to Eungella and then Cape Hillsborough in the Mackay district. We made a fairly early start but still managed to drag a 5 1/2 hour drive out to almost 7 hours - with stops at Op Shops and for coffee in Ayr, lunch and Op Shops in Proserpine and petrol at Bloomsbury. No need to rush!

We decided to try a new place to stay this time and, although it's not as close to the National Park and platypus viewing it does have a fabulous view out across the Pioneer Valley, and is a bit more spacious. Mountain Edge Escape is definitely worth a look if visiting Eungella - there are one and two bedroom cabins.

View of the Pioneer River Valley from our accommodation at Eungella

It was warm when we arrived but as the afternoon wore on the temperature started to drop significantly and we were very glad of the reverse cycle air-conditioning in both lounge room and bedroom.  

We enjoyed a leisurely start then headed off on the short (5km) drive to Broken River to see the platypus and were once again rewarded with lots of sightings. Evidently the platypus here didn't get the memo about being nocturnal - they were out feeding in the middle of the day, in the bright sunshine! Mick took lots of great photos. An added bonus was a Regent Bowerbird that flew right across the path in front of us, then sat in a tree across the river, to have its photo taken.

Broken River

This part of the National Park has been improved since we were here a couple of years ago. There was a bush track under the bridge and along the river to which is now a boardwalk and pathway, with a couple of viewing platforms. We have found platypus at the main viewing platform (which has been there for years and is well signposted) as well as under the bridge as well as the pool at the end of the boardwalk.

You will also see turtles while looking for Platypus

 We went home for lunch and returned later in the afternoon and once again saw a number of platypus, and a few birds. We ran into our neighbours who are also here birdwatching and Mick shared notes with them. 

brown cuckoo-dove

Bassian thrush

We started the next day with a drive out on the Crediton Loop Road. We stopped at a spot we had been told about and took a short walk into the rainforest but didn't go far. This track is actually 8km long but we only went as far as a little bridge. On the way back to the road we spotted another platypus! We drove on to Crediton Hall where there is a very nice little camping area. There was green grass, toilets, BBQ and a creek nearby. Maintained by Mackay Council, and only $5 per person per night, this is one to keep on the list for future reference. From there we drove the rest of the loop and back to the dam road, then back towards the main section of the park, to look for platypus again. This time we didn't see any, which was very unusual. From there we drove out along Diggings Road. We had tried this once before but had bailed out due to the condition of the road, but this time the condition was much better so we made it all the way to the camping area. This would be a nice place to camp, lots of trees and right by the creek, but no facilities (no toilets, no water etc). It also looks like it might be popular with local 4WDrivers. The road does continue on - through the creek and up the other side - but not for us.

Eastern Yellow Robins are quite common in the area and don't mind getting their photo taken

 Later in the afternoon, after getting some advice, we headed off down Dalrymple Road and then Chelman's Road to look for the elusive Eungella Honeyeater. We ran into our cabin neighbours again and, following their directions, Mick was finally rewarded with some photos of this little bird.

The Eungella Honeyeater is a bird with a very limited range.

On our final morning we decided to say farewell to the Platypus so headed back down to Broken River - and the platypus had finally remembered they are nocturnal and were nowhere to be seen! Despite this we enjoyed our walk along the river to the various viewing spots. We set off down the range and turned off to go to Finch Hatton Gorge (still part of Eungella National Park). We ventured out on the Araluen Cascades walk - described by National Parks as having some short uphills sections - but which in fact was mostly uphill! Never believe what you read.... It wasn't a difficult walk despite the long uphill bits, and at the end you reach the river and the cascades - quite beautiful.

Back to the main Mackay - Eungella road and on to the Op Shop at Mirani (of course) and then into Marian for a spot of shopping. Last time we were here there was the (sugar) mill and not much else, but now there is a brand new shopping centre complete with supermarket, discount petrol, pharmacy, bottle shop and take-aways. It seems Mackay is spreading out in this direction.

Back on the road and on to Cape Hillsborough.
  

• The most reliable and accessible Platypus viewing we have experienced
• Great Birding 
• Nice rainforest walks
• Reasonably priced accommodation options

Townsville

15 August 2014

And so to home....

Rock pool and strand

We set off fairly early for the 400km+ drive home to Townsville, stopping for petrol at the Lynd Junction, coffee at Greenvale and lunch at Bluewater Springs. The drive home was uneventful until we reached the top of Hervey's Range - in the rain - and realised we were driving through very low cloud with very limited visibility. The positive side of the rain was that Townsville had been receiving some rain during the day.

We finally made it home mid-afternoon after 25 days away, about 3500 km, 3 gorges and visits to some places we hadn't been before, and return visits to favourites. The journey was almost without incident - no flat tyres or car trouble, just one broken shoe (which I repaired and will be replaced - thanks Ray's Outdoors) and one lost diamond ring! (If you find a solitaire diamond ring, probably between Normanton and Georgetown - please let me know).

It took several days to unpack and clean the car, do all the washing, and pack everything away. Now to start planning the next adventure.

We've been chasing birds around the State and other parts of the country but I haven't mentioned the birding in our home town of Townsville. Townsville is in the dry tropics of Queensland so it's not suited to all tropical species but there is a wonderful variety of birds around the city and suburbs if you know where to look.

If you could only pick one birding destination here, the Townsville Town Common is the place to visit. Worth a try are the three bird hides that overlook ephemeral wetlands but don't be disappointed if there's not much about, drive slowly, stopping to walk a track or two and you will encounter some of the resident or visiting fauna.

The Common is not a particularly attractive place but this doesn't worry the birds. It can be very hot and dry in early summer. There are problems with introduced weeds, feral animals and lots of mosquitoes at times. Be sensible and carry adequate water and repellant, wear shoes and a hat and visit early morning or late afternoon. The gate is open 6.30am to 6.30pm.

This is a good place to find Brolgas, Pheasant Coucal, Red-backed fairywren, chestnut-breasted mannikin, Crimson Finch, Rainbow Bee-eater and many others. Below is a selection of shots from The Common. I will add more from time to time. Mick.

A wind swept Pheasant Coucal at Palaranda

White-browed Crake at Blakey's Crossing

Red-necked Crake at Queens Gardens

Curlew sandpiper

Sharp-tailed Sandpiper

 

Royal Spoonbill landing

Sharp-tailed Sandpiper

Black-winged Stilt 

Marsh Sandpiper

Black-tailed Godwit

Red-kneed dotterel Juvenile

Red-kneed dotterel

Mount Surprise

14 - 15 August 2014

The Crazy Woman (GPS) strikes again! 

We had thought about taking the "back roads" from Cobbold Gorge, through Einasleigh to The Lynd Junction, but because Mick was feeling unwell, and had both had enough of unsealed roads for a while, we decided that we would stop for the night at Mount Surprise, and follow that with the long drive back home to Townsville in the morning. After stopping in Georgetown to visit the Op Shop I set the GPS for Mount Surprise and she told me it was only 52 kms away, despite the road signs saying it was 90km. Not to worry, it's straight along the Savannah Way, so we headed off, and surprise, surprise, the Crazy Woman was spectacularly wrong - she had the town of Mount Surprise smack bang in the middle of the Einasleigh River!

We arrived in this little village and were able to get a cabin for the night so the patient could rest in the afternoon, which he did! Later in the afternoon we went for the walk that leaves from the back of the caravan park, and goes down to the creek. Unlike the creek walk in Julia Creek, this one was well described in the literature, and well marked. It was an easy walk down to, and along the creek. Quite a pretty spot where it would be very nice to have a picnic.

Red-winged Parrot are common in these parts

Seen on the walk... stone stacking appears to be a thing now

 The walk to the creek is along a narrow track that winds through open bushland and through a couple of fences. The ground is scattered with countless basalt rocks that are testament to the volcanic history of the area. Not far away are the Undara Lava Tubes, great long caves formed by the passage of lava, tens of thousands of years ago. Undara has become a popular tourist destination and Mount Surprise is often a base for travelers wishing to see the tubes.

For us, there were more birds around the van park than on the walk to the creek. We only saw a couple of Grey Fantails. I suspect that this would vary with the time of day. I was not well enough to sit quietly  waiting for birds to come in to drink that day.

Lucky I didn't as the temperature dropped and some light rain moved in not long after we returned to the cabin.

Squatter pigeon in the van park

This caravan park was fairly full, and we were glad we hadn't opted to camp in the tent - the 2 tent camping areas were full to overflowing due to the presence of a school tour group. Enthusiastic, giggling teenagers - but they did remain quiet later in the evening. The caravan sites are all set out with trees and shrubs between sites - very thoughtful. We would be happy to stay in one of those when we visit next.

An early start in the morning and then home.....

Cobbold Gorge

12 - 14 August 2014

We had heard about Cobbold Gorge, but were unsure about whether to visit or not, but had kept it on the "maybe list". After talking to a number of travellers along the track, all of whom said it's a "must do", we decided to take their advice. Despite the really crappy condition of the road from Forsayth, this was a spot that we were very glad we visited. We asked to have a look around the camp ground and facilities before deciding where we would camp - powered, unpowered or ensuite. We were very pleasantly surprised and would have been happy to camp in any of the available sections, but we opted for an unpowered site amongst the trees. 
 

The nights were clear and cool and lit by a 'super moon'

The owners here have done an excellent and thoughtful job in setting up their camp ground. Between the trees, where there is not room for a car or tent, they have provided a fire pit, complete with bbq plate, grill plate and hook, as well as seats. These were scattered all around the camp ground. There were taps close by and a great BBQ area with heaps of bench space. The amenities were the best we have seen - look brand new, with individual bathrooms, as well as a laundry and well-equipped camp kitchen. There are also cabins, a shop, cafe/restaurant and - the highlight for us - an infinity pool!

Yes we are camping.

A harmless tree snake was also using the pool

 The main camping area sits behind a dam wall and even though there was very little water in the dam, it was still a great spot for some bird photography. We were fortunate that the place wasn't crowded so we enjoyed the peace and quiet. 

Some of the parrot species around the village

This Rainbow Bee-eater hawked insects from a tree above the dam

 You cannot access the gorge on your own so we took the half day tour on Wednesday morning. Again, the attention to details and quality was evident. We departed the reception area at 10.00am on a very flash 4WD bus, and drove across the private property to an enormous shed where the bus was parked and some information about the flora, fauna and history was provided. From there we began the walking part of the tour, up to the escarpment overlooking the gorge. There are no safety rails, so I opted to stand well back - I don't do heights!. 

Looking down into the Gorge

From there the group was taken up to a grave site, then finally back down to the gorge itself for the boat tour. Travelling in solar powered electric boats, we were guided through this unique - only 10 000 year old - gorge. The boat is narrow and quite cramped but this is necessary in order to access the part of the gorge where it is little more than 2 metres wide. This really is a "must do" activity.

The gorge steadily narrows as we progress. It is impossible to turn the boat making it necessary to have a motor at both ends.

Freshwater crocodiles are encountered at the beginning of the boat trip

Cobbold Gorge is a very well presented tourist facility - great staff, stunning scenery, and all the facilities you need. We decided we could happily camp here, even without the gorge tour, and hope to return "after the wet".

• Great range of accommodation and facilities
• Plenty of birds are attracted to the water and nectar producing native plants around the village
• Bring firewood in from outside for use in the fire places as there isn't that much close by