A Quick trip up north - Atherton Tablelands

Once again we decided to make a short trip to the Atherton Tablelands to escape the oppressive heat on the coast. Even as regular visitors we are always on the lookout for new places to stay and this trip – without the camper trailer – was to be no exception. With one new location, a return to an old favourite, as well as a return to a new favourite, this was to be a trip full of bird photography opportunities.

From a bird watching and photography point of view, North Queensland in summer offers many great opportunities that are not available in the more comfortable winter months. Summer migrants like the Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher and Metallic Starling are busy nesting. The colourful Blue-faced Parrot Finch can be found at its favourite feeding sites on Mt Lewis and Superb Fruit-Doves are vocal prior to nesting.

I had a wish list of tropical specialties, that I had seen in the past but had not photographed satisfactorily, to look for on this trip. In addition to the birds mentioned above, Tooth-billed Bowerbird, Barred Cucko-shrike, Atherton Scrubwren, Fernwren, Bridled Honeyeater and Mountain Thornbill were all on the list. I also hoped to photograph Boyd's Forest Dragon, a lizard I had often looked for but never seen. Mick

Wondecla

27 – 30 December 2017

We headed up the Bruce Highway towards the tablelands and stopped for lunch at Henrietta Creek campground. Last time we were here we had camped overnight. There is a shelter with picnic tables so it seemed the ideal spot to stop. We then drove into Atherton for a visit to Platypus Park, and then some shopping before making our way to Wondecla. Had we not had time to kill and a need to shop, we could have turned off at Millaa Millaa towards Herberton to reach our destination.

Our first stay was new to us – a birdwatchers cabin inWondecla. There is only one cabin on the property so guests are assured of peace and quiet in the very well-appointed cabin which faces out into the wet sclerophyll forest. A number of bird feeders have been set up a short distance from the verandah. There is a network of walks, some well-established and some being created, mostly along the creek which unfortunately had little water.

Here my target was the Superb Fruit-Dove. Several birds could be heard along the walking tracks but I only saw one briefly at a great distance. Oh well, we'll just have to return for them another time. This is a wonderful place to indulge in my favourite type of bird photography... sitting on a verandah with the camera on a tripod and clicking away at whatever comes in for the feeders. To me this is blissful, as I'm not carrying a heavy camera around! One of the highlights was a visit from Mountain Thornbills. Mick

Eastern Spinebill, one of the many honeyeater species that visited regularly.

Macleay's Honeyeater

Yellow-faced Honeyeater

Scarlet Honeyeater

White-naped Honeyeater

White-cheeked Honeyeater

Red-browed Finch

Mountain Thornbill

Sub adult Australian King-Parrot

Male Australian King-Parrot

A family of Pale-yellow Robins come in to drink around sunset.

Peaceful Dove

The property owners are very happy to share their knowledge and also offered to take us spot-lighting which we declined this time. During our three night stay we completed the loop walks – retracing our steps to the best spots, and spent hours on the verandah watching (and photographing) the birds as they came and went for food and water. We didn't leave the property, just enjoying the peace and quiet - including no phone or TV which is something we quite enjoy.

A Green-eyed Tree Frog waiting for bugs on the window.

Brush-tailed Possum

 Coppery Brush-tailed Possum

A Northern Brown Bandicoot foraged around the cabin in the evening.

Northern Sword-grass Brown Butterflies were common.

There were lots of nocturnal visitors and the regular calls of frogs despite the lack of water in the creek.

Julatten

30 December 2017 – 2 January 2018

Our next stay was at Kingfisher Park – another birdwatchers’ spot – at Julatten. We first visited more than 25 years ago and even though the place has changed hands several times since then, it remains a specialist birding destination. At this time of year the attraction is the buff-breasted paradise kingfisher. Visitors include many international birdwatchers.

Leaving Wondecla in the morning we visited Hasties Swamp (another regular stop-over) and then Platypus Park for lunch. Grocery shopping in Atherton, then the drive through Mareeba to Julatten.

Nankeen Night Heron at Hasties Swamp.

Azure Kingfisher at Platypus Park.

 There are lots of good spots on the property but one of the big attractions of a stay at Kingfisher Park is its proximity to World Heritage rainforest at Mount Lewis. We spent two mornings on the mountain staking out the blue-faced parrot finches. An unexpected bonus was a sighting of Atherton Scrubwrens.

It was great to see Atherton Scrubwrens but this was the best pic I could manage.

Blue-faced Parrot Finch

 I was happy to get shots of Blue-faced Parrot Finch and the Atherton Scrubbie on Mt Lewis but they could have been a lot better. I didn't even get time to look for Fernwren, another very challenging bird to photograph. So it looks like we will have to come back for another try next summer. Mick

Red-necked Crake bathing near our room. These could be heard calling at night.

Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher

Noisy Pitta sub-adult

Dinner on New  Year's Eve at the nearby Highlander Tavern was a bit of a treat - nice meal and a fabulous view.

Eastern stony creek frog at Kingfisher Park

As we were packing to leave Kingfisher Park we noticed a musty smell in the car. A quick check didn't reveal the source - we suspected wet clothing or boots, so we headed off towards Mareeba and a stop at the op-shops. By the time we arrived the smell had started to become unpleasant but we still couldn't find it. 

Lake Eacham

2 January - 5 January

We stopped at The Humpy at Tolga to pick up some fresh produce, snacks and other goodies from this popular fruit and veggie shop. Their selection of other things is fabulous and we always stop and buy ourselves something as a treat. Getting back in the car the smell had started to smell distinctly like something dead!

We stopped for a while in Atherton then made our way through a tropical rainstorm to Lake Eacham and Crater Lakes Rainforest Cottages. We have stayed once before and really liked the accommodation, location and the many visiting birds - so now it's on the favourites list.

On arrival we decided to unpack the car as completely as we could to try to find the source of the offending odour, but without any luck. By this time Mick had decided there was something dead in the air conditioning system, as the smell seemed to be worse we first starting the car. I wasn't so sure and really didn't want to have to start removing bits of the car to find it. I eventually found the instructions for removing the aircon filter - first you have to remove the glove box - and Mick set about the task. Well, he was right - there was a decomposing and very smelly antechinus (native mouse) just behind the filter. Fortunately it wasn't too hard to get it out - just really stinky. A quick drive into Atherton the next morning for a new filter and some heavy duty air freshener was in order. We have no idea how this lovely creature came to find itself in the air conditioner, but we suspect it climbed up into the engine bay when we first arrived at Wondecla looking for warmth - it was very cool in the afternoons and overnight there. We checked that off as a new experience and one we had no desire to repeat.

The climate on the tablelands is significantly cooler than on the coast, but at the height of summer, it was still hot enough away from our rainforest hideaway to go for a swim. Lake Eacham is a very popular spot and there were heaps of people there when we visited each morning. The water was perfect and there was plenty of room for everyone. We also visited Lake Barrine and had morning tea at the tea house - another favourite place. There are walks right around both lakes as well as shorter ones. We went on short walks looking for birds of course!

Lake Eacham is a reliable place to find Barred Cuckoo-shrike.

Little Black Cormorant

Boyd's Forest Dragon

Bridled Honeyeater

Dance practice for a young Victoria's Riflebird.

Lewins Honeyeater

Ginger flower

Tooth-billed Bowerbird at Lake Barrrine

Most of our time was spent at the cottage, feeding and photographing the birds. Mick was also excited to see and photograph his first Boyd's forest dragon. Once again, we enjoyed the peace and quiet of a beautiful spot.

Metallic Starling

On the way home in Tully's Gum Boot Park I found Metallic Starlings nesting down low. Unfortunately it was raining so I only had a very quick session with these amazing birds. Mick

Mission Beach

28 - 29 January 2015

Reports on Eremaea Birdlines of some interesting birds in the Yungaburra area have inspired this short northern excursion. Near the shores of Lake Tinaroo, Red-rumped Swallows, Barn Swallows and a solitary Ruff have been spotted by local birders. The prospect of a few cooler nights and swims in Lake Eacham were added incentive to pack and go chasing birds. First though we headed to Mission Beach, a place with so much to offer I find it almost impossible to drive past. 

It felt counter intuitive to be heading north at the height of a heatwave in the middle of the wet season. A languid northerly wind pushed sodden, hot equatorial air down past Townsville making life very uncomfortable in the tropics. Ingham, just to the north of us was experiencing its umpteenth day above 37 degrees C. As we drove through most of the residents appeared well, some looked medium well and a few were  definitely medium rare. 

Chequered Swallowtail butterfly refueling with onlooker. Taken after the trip as the migration came through Townsville.

The further north we traveled, the more Chequered Swallowtail butterflies we passed heading the opposite way. A mass southern migration appeared to be in progress. Each individual was flying fast and low and I didn't see any stopping. Sadly, many were scattered lifeless on the road and would never reach their mysterious destination. I contemplate these little bio-machines with awe... how can they can travel so far on so little fuel while appearing to expend so much effort.

Well here we are in Mission Beach again. We headed off and had our first stop for coffee at Frosty Mango, between Townsville and Ingham (no need to rush!) Next we stopped the op shops in Ingham and Cardwell, then lunch in Cardwell and op shop and Kitchen Essentials in Tully (sound familiar?).

The weather forecast suggested temperatures in the high 30's - and they were right. We decided to stay at the Eco Village this time. We have stayed here quite a few times before, but this was the first time without the girls with us. A quick cup of tea then into the pool. Although not as cool as we had hoped, it was still a nice break from the heat. A nice way to relax after the drive - and our room was just a few steps away - you can't get much better than that.

Fork-tailed Swift flying high.

A Lesser frigatebird was also spied flying high overhead while in the pool.

There is no shortage of Pied Imperial Pigeons at Mission Beach

From the pool I watched a large flock of Fork-tailed Swifts hawking above us (the manager told us that there were heaps of flying ants around so these may have been the prey). The swifts are very hard to photograph because... well they are so swift and I'm not. Also seen from the pool were Black Butcherbirds, Metallic Starlings and Pied Imperial Pigeons feeding on the fruit of the surrounding palms.

This adult Metallic Starling was regurgitating fruit to feed the two young birds flanking it.

Cute little Fig Parrots flew in and out of the same tree as we watched.

After breakfast we visited the park to look for fruiting fig trees in the hope of seeing one of my all time favourite little birds... the Double-eyed Fig Parrot. These birds can be a challenge to locate being not much bigger than the leaves they feed among and about the same colour. Their high pitched screeching call told me there were some close by and I soon found a pair to photograph. Mick.

Yungaburra - Atherton Tablelands

29 January to 1 February 2015

We arrived in Malanda at about lunch time and the heat was oppressive - mid thirties and certainly not what you expect up here. Usually the temperature on the Atherton Tablelands, even at the height of summer, is markedly cooler than on the coast. We spent a few minutes in each of the two op-shops then into the supermarket for supplies and over to Yungaburra. We had opted to return to another favourite spot - Bushland Cottages. We have stayed there quite a few times before and always enjoy the surroundings. There are two cottages - we had Birdwing (2 bedroom) situated just on the edge of Yungaburra village, with a large deck looking out onto the bushland that slopes down to Petersen Creek. The cottage is well appointed with just about everything you could need.

The deck

Not a great angle. On each visit, Yellow-eyed Cuckoo-shrikes were seen in a fig tree at Lake Eacham.

Because of the heat we decided to head over to Lake Eacham after lunch and a rest. A swim in the lake was the perfect way to spend the afternoon. There were lots of people there, but it didn't feel crowded - there was plenty of space for everyone. On the way home we took a detour down to Lake Tinaroo (Tinaroo Dam) to look for a Ruff that has been reported there - without any luck.

The beautiful Lake Eacham.

Little Pied Cormorant at Platypus Park

On Friday morning we headed off early - before 8.00am and called into Lake Eacham for a quick photo opportunity with some Yellow-eyed Cuckoo-shrikes that Mick had spotted the day before, then over to Atherton and a stop at Platypus Park, then some serious bird spotting at Hasties Swamp. While we were there Mick met a fellow birder who told him exactly where to find the Ruff at Lake Tinaroo. We also spotted the platypus, but didn't get a photo this time. It's unusual to see one during the day - they are supposed to be nocturnal, but we have actually seen quite a few in the day time.

We stopped in Atherton to have a coffee, buy beer and fill up with petrol, then back over to Tinaroo for another - unsuccessful - look for the bird. Lunch at home, an afternoon nap and then back over to Lake Eacham for another swim. A few clouds were starting to build, and even though it was still hot, there was the promise of rain.




We opted for dinner at The Lake Eacham Hotel (otherwise known as the Yungaburra Pub). Good pub meals at reasonable prices, in a beautiful old building with lots of interesting photos and old world charm. There are several pubs like this one on the tablelands that still reflect their former glory.

Australasian Pipit Lake Tinaroo.

A welcome afternoon storm cooled things down but our planned walk along Petersen Creek had to wait until morning. The walking track and surrounds are well maintained and constantly improved thanks to an active, hard working local land care group. The occasional song of a Shrike-thrush cut through the all pervasive, pulsating buzz of countless cicadas singing from the gums above us. We strolled down the track to a swimming hole below some little rapids and watched dragonflies patrol and then rest on rocks in the stream bed.

There are supposed to be Tree Kangaroos along this walk but we have never been lucky enough to see one. There is always plenty of other wildlife to see if you are quiet and patient. We saw Eastern Yellow Robin, Pied Monarch, Dusky Honeyeater and Varied Triller along with Water Dragons and a snake that slithered away into the creek well ahead of us.

Red-rumped Swallow, one of the targets of the trip, better than nothing!

Juvenile Olive-backed Oriole.

Grey Teal at Hasties Swamp.

There are plenty of places to stop and take in the serenity.

Stuck in a spider web.

Cicada shell on one of the many picnic tables along the walk.

This Goanna eyed us suspiciously as we passed.

This is probably the well disguised nest of a Monarch.

An unusual fungi growing from the base of a tree along the track.

What a racket these make! The sound of summer in the bush.

On Saturday morning, after our walk along Petersen Creek, we drove over to Malanda to the Nerada Tea Visitor Centre. Despite being regular visitors to the Tablelands (Mick for over 50 years) we had never visited Nerada, so we had it on the must do list. The brochure we had indicated the centre was open every day of the week. Wrong! A sign at the turn-off announced that the centre would be closed for the month of February - no problem it was only 31 January, so off we went. A pleasant drive of about 10km through rolling hills and we arrived - only to find another sign about the February closure, and another stating "closed Saturday and Sunday". Bugger! I checked their website later and it does show the new trading hours - but no mention of the February closure. We picked up more supplies and headed back to the cottage. A rainy afternoon cooled the temperature slightly and also restricted the birdwatching somewhat.

Before we headed for home on Sunday morning we had one last look for the elusive Ruff and spotted a platypus instead.  Back down the Palmerston Highway with a stop in Cardwell and lunch in Ingham, then home.

The last morning and still no Ruff. Pacific Black Duck.

Buff-banded Rail by the road on the way to the lake.

Golden-headed Cisticola