Two More National Parks - Cape Le Grand and Cape Arid

Cape Le Grand National Park - Lucky Bay Campground

25 - 27 November 2018

As of 1 November 2018 campgrounds in the popular Cape Le Grand National Park must be booked online so we did just that once we had settled on dates. There is also a park entry fee. The smaller Le Grand Beach campground was fully booked so we booked a site at Lucky Bay. Some people had told us Lucky Bay was the best campground, while others favoured Le Grand Beach. We arrived early - before lunch - and chose our site. There are more than 50 sites, and not many unoccupied from which to choose. We settled on one with a view of the bay - WOW it's gorgeous!

The beaches are stunning.

A double rainbow at Lucky Bay! You would think that could be a good omen... not for birdwatching as it turns out.

Lucky Bay from the road.

The beautiful Lucky Bay again.

Lucky Bay campground has been redeveloped fairly recently and boasts warm (solar) showers as well as "camp kitchens" with BBQs, tables and washing up sinks with hot water. The downside is that it is somewhat like a large caravan park with very little vegetation and all sites are very exposed.  

The water at Lucky Bay, and many other beaches and bays that we visited during our time on the south coast of Western Australia, is spectacularly blue. It's also really windy and we had to put extra ropes on the camper trailer awning to secure it against the forecast high winds. During the night the wind howled and blew but our little home held fast. We heard on the radio in the morning that gusts of 54 kilometres per hour had been recorded not far away in Esperance. 

We decided to do some exploring so drove to have a look at Le Grand Beach and the campground, with a view to maybe having a couple of nights there too. It looked more like the sort of campground we prefer - with lots of trees and sheltered camp sites nestled in the bush. We could only get one night so decided against it.

We also visited Hellfire Bay, Rossiter Bay and Thistle Cove. Thistle Cove has an amazing natural feature in Whistling Rock, which echoes the sound of the waves. It's hard not to keep taking photos of all these beautiful spots.

At Rossiter Bay, we had a short walk to the beach through flowering heath.

Birds were a little scarce on this leg of the trip but I did have a fly-past by this Caspian Tern at Rossiter Bay.

Whistling Rock

Looking towards Thistle Cove.

Thistle Cove

Cape Arid National Park - Belinup Campground

27 - 28 November 2018

We wanted to visit Cape Arid while we were in the area so headed there next. It's only about 120km from Lucky Bay so we knew it wouldn't take too long to get there. Our neighbours at Lucky Bay had been down for a drive and told us the unsealed road was in good condition. We found our way to the park entrance (entry fee payable at the entry station) and noticed some warning lights had come on in the car. Bugger! We decided we might as well keep going the short distance to the campground anyway as the car was still driving OK and the brakes were working. It would only be a one night stop though so we would have time to stay in Esperance again if needed.

The campground on the Thomas River is just what we like - sheltered spots with lots of bush. There are even a couple of spots for larger groups. There is self registration at the entrance to the campground so we paid our fee and settled in. Late in the afternoon we noticed a couple of Carnaby's Black Cockatoos had settled into the tree on the edge of our camp. While Mick was getting his camera, a few more came in, and then more and more! Eventually there were so many it was impossible to count them. Lots of photo ops there!

Carnaby's Black Cockatoo.

Carnaby's Black Cockatoos.

On our way out the following morning we called in to Dolphin Cove. There is a walk from the car park over rocky outcrops that provides views of the cove, but it does not go down to the beach. On the way back towards Esperance, we stopped and called the local Toyota dealer who were happy for us to bring the car in as soon as we arrived in town. The problem was located and a fix identified. They had us back on the road in under two hours. We appreciated the great service.

Esperance

21 – 25 November 2018

With less than 100 kilometres to Esperance we took the opportunity to call in and have a look at Stokes Inlet on the way. This had been on our list of possible camp stops so we thought it was worth a look. Again, this National Park has a park entry fee.  We drove down to the campground which looked quite nice. A couple of spots had views of the inlet, and most were surrounded by bush. There were even a couple suitable for a couple of caravans for those travelling together.

After a look at the campground we drove down to the day use area further along the inlet. This is also a nice area with picnic shelters and toilets. There also seems to be a couple of walking tracks although we didn’t investigate these. After a good look around we decided to press on to Esperance.

We arrived in Esperance well before lunch time and chose a caravan park not far from town, near the beach. We hadn’t decided how long to stay, waiting to see what the weather would do, but we were given a “pay 3, stay 4” offer so that sealed the deal. The weather forecast was for pretty awful weather until after the weekend so 4 nights looked like it would be perfect.

We didn’t find Esperance to be a particularly appealing town, but it does have lots of interest for the birdwatcher, and also has lots of beautiful beaches. As well as our usual “town jobs” we also did a couple of “touristy” things.

The Great Ocean Drive – is a 40 kilometre loop drive that passes many places of interest worth a stop. Driving through town, along the foreshore, the first stop is the Rotary Lookout. From there the drive takes in a number of gorgeous beaches including West Beach, Salmon Beach and Twilight Beach. The next highlight is Observatory Point, then Nine Mile, Ten Mile Lagoon and Eleven Mile Beach.

The road then heads inland to the famous Pink Lake. Except it’s not pink any more. The salinity has declined to such a point that the algae which produces the distinctive pink colouring can no longer survive. What had caused this? The road and railway built nearby have contributed to the conditions which prevent the regular flushing of the lake. From the Pink Lake Lookout the road winds back to town.

West Beach

West Beach

Museum Village - The Visitor Information Centre is located within this precinct of historical buildings. Unfortunately that is the only reason I would recommend going there. The buildings’ former uses are identified by signs outside but there is no more information about them. We were expecting to see the work of local artisans and craftspeople but were disappointed to find only a couple of photo galleries, and the rest of the shops stocking mass produced items.

Kepwari Trails – Part of the Lake Warden Wetlands, this walking trail consists of 1.5km of raised timber boardwalks and 2.1km of surfaced trail. The walk is not a loop so we didn’t walk all the way. We had a look at one end, off Windabout Way, then drove to the other end off Lake Road. There are a couple of bird hides so we drove back to a spot on Fisheries Road where we could park close to the hides. This turned out to be a good decision as almost straight away Mick found some candidates for photos. We walked as far as the second of the two bird hides, before returning to the car. Both hides are situated over the water and have reasonably well hidden (from the birds) entries. There are no toilets at either end of the trail.

Western Wattlebird

Juvenile Red-eared Firetail.

Sacred Kingfisher

Hoary-headed Grebe, you've gotta love bird names.

 We shouted ourselves breakfast out on our last morning. There is so much unreaslied potential to develop the Esplanade and encourage eateries and refurbishment of the existing dated pubs. The fantastic views would surely draw people to this part of town. Our next stop was just a short drive away so we didn't need to hurry.

Further East - Fitzgerald River, Mason Bay, Munglinup Beach

Fitzgerald River National Park - Hammersley Inlet Campground

16 – 18 November 2018

Our next destination was Fitzgerald River National Park. There are several sections and campgrounds but we were headed to the eastern section, requiring a drive back up to the highway and through several towns. We stopped for coffee and shopping at Jerramungup. While there we had a quick look at the Biosphere Gardens. I say quick because it has to be the smallest botanic garden we have ever visited. The weather forecast was for storms and we drove through increasingly heavy rain on the way to Ravensthorpe. By the time we arrived it was raining heavily and there was lightning around so we decided on lunch at a café – it was impossible weather for our customary picnic lunch. Continuing on towards Hopetoun, then turning off to the National Park we saw clearer skies. 

Visitors to Fitzgerald River National Park are required to pay a park entry fee, but we had our Holiday Pass which was still valid so we didn’t need to do this. From the entrance station we drove through forests of banksias and hakeas on the way to Hammersley Inlet. Along the way we passed turnoffs to a number of lookouts, beaches and walks. Arriving at the campground we settled on a site which allowed us to face the camper trailer towards some bush. This campground, although within the national park, is run by Ravensthorpe Council so the fees are lower than national park camp fees at $10 per vehicle per night. Great value for a campground with clean toilets and a barbecue shelter. There is no drinking water so it is important to bring your own.

White-browed Scrubwren. There weren't many birds around the campground.

Western Thornbill

We went for a walk down to the inlet and were a little disappointed with the location of the campground in proximity to the water, as well as the lack of walks and amount of cleared bush. Grey skies didn’t help either. Camping here does allow access to lots of other lovely spots as we found out the next day when we went for a drive.

We knew the forecast for Saturday was for a warmer day, but without internet access we were surprised to wake to a very warm morning. It certainly seemed like the day would be warmer than the low to mid-twenties we were expecting. We decided to go for a drive to some of the beaches. Along the way we hoped to get internet access to check the forecast. The outside temperature gauge in the car showed over thirty degrees and when we finally reached a point with signal, we found the new forecast was for a top of 36°! Quite a change from the weather we had experienced over the previous weeks – high teens to low twenties.

Walking track with a view.

Hakea victoria

Hakea victoria

Hakea victoria

Banksia

A Western Fieldwren seen on one of the lookout walks.

Western Fieldwren

We stopped to have a look at West Beach, Cave Point and East Mount Barren before heading home to rest through the hottest part of the day. Later in the afternoon, we drove back past the park entrance to the bird hide at Culham Inlet, then back to Barrens Beach and Four Mile Beach. We also stopped at the two lookouts which provide views across the inlets and surrounding area. As we have come to expect, the temperature dropped in the evening.

There were huge numbers of waders at the bird hide but they were a very long way off.

A Scrub Python stops traffic while crossing the road

Goanna

Barrens Beach

Sea urchin

A great view of the inlet and Four Mile Campground.

A local skink.

In the morning we chatted with a fellow camper and of course the conversation turned to birds, specifically the ones Mick was chasing. As luck would have it, she told us about Mason Bay campground where she had seen and heard lots of birds, including wattlebirds. Mick played the call for the Western wattlebird, one that he had been trying to find throughout south-west WA. She was absolutely certain that was the one she had heard, so we added Mason Bay as our next stop.

Mason Bay

18 – 20 November 2018

Mason Bay is only a short drive from Hopetoun so we headed there for a coffee and a look around once we had left the national park. We then travelled on the unsealed road to Mason Bay and the council-run campground right on the beach. Being a Sunday, and still quite early (well before lunch time) there we lots of people there but we found a spot in a section where there was no-one else camped. Our spot was very sheltered from the wind, but still only a very short walk to the beach.

As we were setting up, Mick spotted the Western Wattlebird in a tree right by our campsite. What luck! Setting up camp was interrupted while he tried to take photos.

'What are you looking at?' This Tawny Frogmouth was opposite our camp and wasn't happy about the sun waking it up.

Much more serene later in the afternoon.

The afternoon was very warm so Mick put out a dish of water for the birds. It was amazing how many came in for a drink and a bath. We also spotted a Tawny frogmouth in a tree opposite. Mason Bay is a popular fishing spot but we were content to relax and Mick had a ball photographing all the birds.

The camper trailer was useful as a hide here.

At times the bathing birds looked like they were trying for a Guinness Book of Records record.

Silvereye

A long awaited Western Wattlebird.

Grey Fantail

New Holland Honeyeaters holding hands.

We spent two nights there, and once again packed up camp in between showers of rain. After a couple of days of milder temperatures, it was back to cold again. We keep waiting for spring to arrive, even though it was only two weeks until the start of summer.

Back on the road with no firm destination this time, just a plan to look at a couple of places then make up our minds when we'd had a good look around.

Munglinup Beach

20 -21 November

We had a bit of a plan – have a look at Munglinup Beach, then Stokes Inlet then Esperance. We’d stay at the first place we liked the look of. First stop was Munglinup Beach. We drove past the caravan park down to the beach where there is a day use area and a council run camping area. Although it might have been nice camping by the beach, we decided that a night in a caravan park was needed after four nights in campgrounds without showers. It would also allow us to charge up batteries and ride out some more rain in a nice camp kitchen.

This Spotted-thighed Frog made its home in the camp kitchen.

Arriving just after 10:00 am we decided on only one night. With more wind and rain we settled in and made use of the great camp kitchen, chatting to other travellers and even getting to watch TV for a while. All in all, it was a restful day in a nice spot.

Once again there were clouds in the sky and showers around as we packed up to head in to Esperance, or maybe Stokes Inlet.

South Coastal WA – Cheyne’s Beach and Bremer Bay

Cheyne’s Beach

11 – 14 November 2018

Our next stop was less than 50 kilometres away so we had another leisurely start, with a final walk to the beach before we headed off for Cheyne’s Beach. Cheyne’s is a small settlement of mainly fishing shacks (and some quite nice looking houses up on the hill), with a caravan park that services the part-time community.

The main reason for visiting this spot is, of course, the birding. A number of WA endemics can be found here so Mick spent most of the time out with the camera. Our spot in the caravan park had a nice, filtered, view of the beach, and with plenty of bush around, it made a nice place to stay. Unfortunately the weather on our second morning wasn’t great, with fine misty rain falling, but Mick still managed a very early morning bird walk.

Great granite boulders overlook the park.

A young roo has an engorged tick on its lip.

A curious roo. A couple of the large males looked quite scary.

The heath has a wide variety of nectar rich flowers.

Hakea cucullata

Banksia coccinea. Many species were in bloom and thankfully, not as hard to spot as the birds.

New Holland Honeyeaters were the most numerous.

New Holland Honeyeater

Tawny-crowned Honeyeater

White-cheeked Honeyeater

This is a wonderful birding location. The caravan park is right next to the Arpenteur Nature Reserve and has easy access to habitat containing the sought after Noisy Scrub-bird, Western Whipbird and Rufous Bristlebird. The caravan park owners are very helpful and will provide information about recent sightings. It is very important to familiarize yourself with the calls of these three birds and to allow a few days to find them. I found a Rufous Bristlebird territory the first morning but only heard the bird. The second morning I saw it singing in the open for a couple of minutes but missed the shot due to water on my lens. The third morning I managed to get a record shot. This all happened between 5:00 and 5:15am. I would have loved another crack at the Western Whipbird. I saw it briefly but it was too deep in the heath to photograph. Mick.

Around the caravan park; Red Wattlebird...

Usually very shy, the Brush Bronzewing is quite easily seen around the caravan park here.

Common Bronzewing courting behaviour.

White-breasted Robin

Back out in the heath; Carnaby's Black-Cockatoo.

Female Southern Emu-wren.

As I listened to a Noisy Scrub-bird calling in the heath, this male Southern Emu-wren continually popped up close by.

It's possible there was a nest nearby.

The only skulker I was able to photograph. Rufous Bristlebird.

Juvenile Western Spinebill.

Carnaby's Black Cockatoo BIF

The weather really didn't improve much but Mick still managed to get out a few times with the camera, including two very early morning starts which were moderately productive. Hoping for better weather, we set off for Bremer Bay, another relatively short drive away.

Bremer Bay

14 – 16 November 2018

Arriving in Bremer Bay to clear skies and warm(ish) temperatures we seized the opportunity to have a good look around during our two night stay. We walked a couple of sections of the Estuary Walk on the afternoon we arrived and again the next morning. We also followed a tourist driving route which took us to some of the most beautiful beaches and bays including Back Beach, Blossom’s Beach (named after a cow), Fishery Beach Marina, Short Beach and Native Dog Beach. At some of these we were the only ones there, while the warmer weather saw a few people out enjoying the sun at others.

This Grey Plover was very wary and kept its distance.

It was great to find a Red-capped Parrot feeding down low.

Fishery Beach Marina

Fishery Beach Marina

Beach washed sea bird, not sure what species.

Native Dog Beach

Native Dog Beach pano.

We also visited the Tooreburrup Lookout for a great view over the area. Bremer Bay is certainly worth a visit, especially if the weather is good. Unfortunately for us the afternoon saw the wind come up and the temperature drop significantly. Oh well, it was nice while it lasted.