The Last Leg - Queenscliff to Tasmania

Queenscliff
12 - 14 December 2018

Rain was forecast, but from the afternoon so we were able to get packed up with the canvas dry. The last thing we wanted when storing the trailer was to have wet canvas which would be very stinky and mouldy by the time we returned in a couple of months time. We left Werribbee and tackled the freeways to get the camper trailer to a storage facility on the outskirts of Melbourne. The sky remained clear all the way there and for the rest of our journey back down the Belleraine Peninsular to a cabin in a caravan park at Queenscliff.

Our decision to get a cabin was based on the weather forecast and it was the right one. The rain started shortly after our arrival and continued throughout the two days we were there. We had to completely repack the car to accommodate the fridge and various other bits and pieces we had taken out of the trailer for our time in Tasmania. It wasn't much fun doing it in the rain, but it would have been way worse if we had the trailer with us still. We had hoped to do some exploring in the area as we hadn't been there before, but the weather was against us.

We were booked onto the Spirit of Tasmania for a night sail so were grateful we were able to get a later checkout enabling us to have an early lunch before heading into Geelong to kill some time. After an afternoon at the movies -and a parking ticket - we set off for Melbourne earlier than planned due to a severe weather warning.

We could see the storm ahead as we drove along the motorway, but had no idea just how bad it was until we were right in it. Being on the motorway there was no way we could pull over, so with white knuckles and a knot in my stomach, we drove on. Turning off the motorway to make our way to Station Pier lead us to the scariest moments as we found ourselves in the middle of a traffic jam caused by rising water across the intersection ahead and no way around it. Vehicles were driving through it in all directions, some were turning around and a few were stuck in the middle. We opted to drive through as we didn't know where else to go and other high clearance vehicles were getting through. Holding my breath I drove on and around the corner, sticking to the highest point in the middle of the road. More water over the road, but not as bad, saw us crawling along with the rest of the traffic. We were very relieved to arrive at our destination and the queue to check in to the Spirit of Tasmania.

Some of the heaviest rain we had ever experienced at the worst possible time.

Safely onboard at last! You have no idea how welcome these drinks were.

By the time we had boarded, the storm had all but passed and we enjoyed a couple of well-earned relaxing drinks before dinner. The overnight Bass Strait Crossing was not as calm as we hoped, but calmer than we had expected. Arriving in Devonport we had breakfast and met up with daughter Jo and drove the final leg to Hobart where we were to spend about 10 weeks.

The Great Ocean Road to Wye River and Werribee

Wye River

9 - 10 December 2018

We've driven the Great Ocean Road a few times now, and have visited most of the sites, so on this trip we didn't feel the need to stop at the many lookouts. Our first stop after leaving Portland was Port Fairy to go to Griffiths Island. This was a very busy spot with lots of people walking along the paths. Our mission was birds, of course, but most visitors were there to see the lighthouse - just one of many along this part of the coast (known as the Shipwreck Coast).

We didn't have any luck with birds but were able to find a sheltered spot out of the relentless wind, to have a picnic lunch in the nearby park. It would have been a very pleasant spot if it hadn't been so blowy.

From Port Fairy we travelled along the coastal route through Warrnambool and on to Bay of Martyrs. This is one spot we hadn't been to. As with all the sites along the Great Ocean Road, this one was fairly busy, but not as busy as the better known ones. We were pleased to find ample parking for long / towing vehicles in a well made car park. Still windy so we didn't stay long. 

We continued along the coastal road, through Apollo Bay and on to Wye River. We chose the caravan park with a bush setting and were very happy to be able to set up right on the little creek that runs through the park. Wye River township and community was devastated by bushfires on Christmas Day 2015, but despite the evidence of burnt bush, it is still a lovely place to visit. The pub up on the hill adjacent to the caravan park was a fabulous spot for an sundowner with a view.

In the morning we walked on the beach and along the little bush track that runs beside the caravan park. If we had more time, we would have stayed longer. We had to push on to get closer to Melbourne for our Friday night sail to Tasmania, so our next stop was Werribee.

Werribee

10 - 11 December 2018

Mick has wanted to visit the Western Treatment Plant at Werribee for some time, so I could no longer avoid this as a destination. As with some other birding hot-spots, access to this one is restricted. Visitors must apply for a permit and obtain a key from the Visitor Information Centre located at Werribee Zoo. This turned out be an easy process with the frinedly volunteers offering all sorts of information.

Our stay at a nearby caravan park meant we were able to make a very early start to take advantage of the best light. You drive throughout the complex, beside the various treatment ponds and along near the shore. It's well signposted and made for a nice morning out, although Mick felt it would have been better to have gone with someone who had some local knowledge.

Black Swan

Red-necked Avocets, Red-necked Stints, Sharp-tailed Sandpipers and curlew Sandpipers.

Sharp-tailed Sandpipers

Whiskered Tern

A great place to visit and the abundance of bird life is truly amazing. It is the place for flock and group shots but that's not really my thing. We saw thousands of Curlew Sandpipers, Sharp-tailed Sandpipers and Red-necked Stints as well as a good variety of ducks. Mick

While staying in Werribbee we made preparation for our journey to Tasmania. The weather forecast for the couple of days prior to sailing was for rain so we made the decision to put the camper trailer into storage and spend the last two nights in a cabin.

Portland

6 - 9 November 2018

After leaving Bool Lagoon we drove south through Mount Gambier then took the coast road to Nelson, where we stopped for coffee. Driving across the border into Victoria we had to reset our watches and lost 1/2 hour in the process. From Nelson it was an easy drive into Portland. 

The reason for our visit (a return for us) was a chance to see (and photograph) the resident gannet colony close up. Mick had been able to make contact with a local volunteer and had made a tentative arrangement for Friday evening.

The hot days continued so we sought refuge in any air conditioned space we could find. The local library, with access to free wifi, was a favourite. Our bird guide was fitting us in around other commitments as well as keeping an eye on the weather forecast. With the possibility of rain in the evening, he suggested a middle of the day excursion to Point Danger. We readily agreed, despite the heat, knowing this may be our only chance.

We also found some wildlife to photograph closer to home. In the caravan park, a familiar roar alerted us to the presence of a Koala in a nearby tree. On an outing to the foreshore, we also found a couple of Fur Seals and Musk Ducks. Despite the heat and harsh light of the early afternoon, the gannet colony was the highlight of our stay. It took a while but I eventually fount a Cape Gannet among the Australasians. Another new bird! Mick.

They do sleep a lot.

A rare shot with eyes open.

Down at the waterfront, Fur Seals wait for fishermen to come in and clean their catch.

Fur Seal

We also saw a couple of Musk Ducks hunting crabs.

Anyone can visit the Point Danger gannet colony but to get a close up look beyond the fence you must go with a local volunteer. This was arranged through the Visitor Information Centre and even for this non-birdwatcher, was a very special and worthwhile experience. Being so close to a large number of these birds was quite amazing.

Australasian Gannets

A Cape Gannet showing its long Gular stripe very well.

Cape Gannet

Air brakes.

While in Portland we also took a tourist drive out to The Blowholes (not really blowing), The Petrified Forest (really a series of limestone tubes) and Bridgewater Lakes (too crowded). It was a nice drive and interesting to see some local attractions though.

On our final morning we visited Fawthrop Lagoon, another popular birdwatching spot. A walking path and boardwalk goes right around the lake, but we only went for a short walk. Next we were off along the Great Ocean Road towards the east.

Mount Barker and Bool Lagoon

Mount Barker 

2 - 5 November 2018

We had called in to Mount Barker on a previous trip to have a look at Laratinga Wetlands and thought it would be nice to spend a bit of time there, so we made that our next destination. After a morning at the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens we stopped for a picnic lunch at Crystal Brook then drove towards the Adelaide Hills. The wind continued to blow hard throughout the day and was still very strong when we arrived at Mount Barker.

The strong winds made setting up the awning on the camper trailer quite a challenge but once the job was done we decided to make a trip to Laratinga Wetlandst to kill some time. We had to get used to a different sunrise/sunset pattern now that we had travelled east into South Australia and daylight savings time. In WA we were woken by sunrise just after 4:00am, in SA the sun wasn't getting up until closer to 7:00am, but was staying up until about 8:00pm. Resetting the body clock would take a few days.

While in Mount Barker we visited the wetlands each morning and evening to be able to catch the best light. We were fortunate to have lovely weather for each day of our visit with only gentle breezes after the first night. Laratinga Wetlands in on the outskirts of town and is a really popular spot with locals walking, cycling, running and walking dogs. There is a network of paths and lots of seating throughout - oh, and heaps of birds.

Hoary-headed Grebe

Australian Spotted Crake

Australian Spotted Crake

Baillion's Crake

Baillion's Crake

Pink-eared Duck

Pink-eared Ducks are often very shy so I made the most of this situation.

Yellow-billed Spoonbill.

Grey Teal

Grey Teal

Chestnut Teal

Black-tailed Native Hen

Black-fronted Dotterel

The next generation of Black-fronted Dotterels on the way.

 We also did the tourist thing and went to Hahndorf, a short drive away. This was an opportunity to pick up some more gourment delights as we had eaten all the goodies we bought in Margaret River. Hahndorf wears its German heritage with much pride and it is easy to spend a few hours browsing along the main street.

Worth every cent!

We made one last visit to Laratinga Wetlands before setting off for Bool Lagoon, just past Naracoorte.



Bool Lagoon - near Naracoorte 

5 - 6 November 2018

After a short morning at Laratinga Wetlands we headed for Bool Lagoon, just past Naracoorte We had hoped to visit once before but were informed at the Visitor Information Centre that, at that time, the lagoon was dry. I checked and discovered that this time, there was plenty of water so we planned a visit.

We set off along the freeway, through Keith where we stopped for a picnic lunch, then on through Naracoorte. The hot weather continued and it was over 30° when we arrived mid-afternoon. Visitors must pay a $10 per vehicle entry fee, and camping ($10 per person per night) must be booked and paid online. We found the campground easily and set up in the best shady spot we could find. The campground is right beside Hack's Lagoon. Unfortunately the reeds were so high you couldn't actually see the water, but there were definitely birds around.

There are a number of short walks within the park and, despite the heat, we walked a short distance along Pat-Om Walk, an easy Grade 1, partly along boardwalk. Shortly after the boardwalk ended the track became overgrown so we turned back. It looked like the perfect place for snakes. From there we drove down to the Tea Tree Boardwalk. This 1 kilometre return walk snakes its way across the water of Bool Lagoon to a bird hide.

Lots of birdlife but very few photo opportunities. Sharp-tailed Sandpipers from the boardwalk.

We only stayed at Bool Lagoon for one night and enjoyed being the only ones in the campground. That doesn't happen very often! In the morning we set off for Portland, in Victoria.

Back Across the Nullarbor

Fraser Range

28 - 29 November 2018

Leaving Esperance just after lunch we began what we knew would be a few long days on the road. We weren't sure where we would stop but with the temperature well over 30, we figured we might as well go as far as we could. In the end Fraser Range was our choice. We had stayed there on the way west three months ago and we were happy to stay again.

This was just an overnight stop, but in a lovely spot. We were up early - we never did get used to the (approximately) 4:15am sunrises! 

Nullarbor Roadhouse

29 - 30 November 2018

We had a bit of an idea about staying at Madura Roadhouse because when we saw it on the way west we thought it looked nice. The day was again hot, and stopping at a roadhouse early to camp isn't all that appealing so we kept going. We worked out that we could get to Nullarbor before dark.

Crossing over the border into South Australia meant we lost 2 hours, but it also meant an end to the very early mornings. We kept on driving and arrived at Nullarbor Roadhouse after 7:00pm, but the sun was still up. We picked a spot in the camping area and went into the bar for a burger and drink. The meal was good and the drink welcome after such a long day.

The reason Mick had wanted to stay at Nullarbor was the Nullarbor Quail-thrush so we headed out along a dirt track in the morning. The guide book Mick uses gave instructions for driving along the fenceline so that's what we did. We found the spot - but no Quail-thrush so eventually turned around and headed back for the main road. Part way along the track a bird sat a little way in front of us - yes, it was the Nullarbor Quail-thrush. Unfortunately it flew away before Mick could get a photo. We spotted another one flying off into the bush a little further along.

A truck hits the road heading towards a spectacular sunrise.

Sun's up, time to go hunting birds.

Slender-billed Thornbill. A second new bird for the morning and a decent photo as well.

Slender-billed Thornbill

We returned to the campground, packed up and headed off towards Streaky Bay.

Streaky Bay 

30 November 2018 - 1 December 2018

Again it was a very hot day so it was more comfortable in the car than outside. We chose the caravan park at Streaky Bay that had ensuite sites and a view of the bay. It was still really hot when we arrived after 3:00pm so we were glad to be able to spend some time in the cool of the well-appointed recreation room.

The forecast was for strong winds through the night so once again we had to attach extra ropes to the awning. Rain was also forecast for the morning. With the rain clouds looming we packed quickly and managed to avoid getting wet canvas. 

There were storms around and high winds forecast for most of the state so we weren't sure what to do. We decided to drive towards Port Augusta and make up our minds along the way.

Port Augusta

1 - 2 November 2018

We drove through a couple of showers but the further east we drove, the nastier the weather became. The wind was very strong and there were some very ominous looking clouds ahead. Then we saw lightning! We stopped at Kimba for lunch in a cafe just ahead of the storm. As we were leaving there was a huge clap of thunder.

Approaching storm.

We drove on and kept checking the weather radar. It looked like the storms would impact any of our proposed overnight stops. We had hoped to go down onto the Yorke Peninsular but in the end we decided a cabin in Port Augusta would be our best option. 

We arrived mid-afternoon and checked into a near-new cabin at the caravan park where we had stayed on the way to WA. The rain and thunder continued, and the wind blew throughout the afternoon while we enjoyed air-conditioning and television. After 100 days on the road we figured we deserved this treat.

After a lazy start to the morning we set off for yet another visit to the Australian Arid  Lands Botanic Gardens. The weather was kind and there were a few birds about. From there we headed to Mount Barker in the Adelaide Hills.

Not many birds about but I managed a few shots. White-browed Babbler.

White-fronted Honeyeater

Male Superb Fairywren

Two More National Parks - Cape Le Grand and Cape Arid

Cape Le Grand National Park - Lucky Bay Campground

25 - 27 November 2018

As of 1 November 2018 campgrounds in the popular Cape Le Grand National Park must be booked online so we did just that once we had settled on dates. There is also a park entry fee. The smaller Le Grand Beach campground was fully booked so we booked a site at Lucky Bay. Some people had told us Lucky Bay was the best campground, while others favoured Le Grand Beach. We arrived early - before lunch - and chose our site. There are more than 50 sites, and not many unoccupied from which to choose. We settled on one with a view of the bay - WOW it's gorgeous!

The beaches are stunning.

A double rainbow at Lucky Bay! You would think that could be a good omen... not for birdwatching as it turns out.

Lucky Bay from the road.

The beautiful Lucky Bay again.

Lucky Bay campground has been redeveloped fairly recently and boasts warm (solar) showers as well as "camp kitchens" with BBQs, tables and washing up sinks with hot water. The downside is that it is somewhat like a large caravan park with very little vegetation and all sites are very exposed.  

The water at Lucky Bay, and many other beaches and bays that we visited during our time on the south coast of Western Australia, is spectacularly blue. It's also really windy and we had to put extra ropes on the camper trailer awning to secure it against the forecast high winds. During the night the wind howled and blew but our little home held fast. We heard on the radio in the morning that gusts of 54 kilometres per hour had been recorded not far away in Esperance. 

We decided to do some exploring so drove to have a look at Le Grand Beach and the campground, with a view to maybe having a couple of nights there too. It looked more like the sort of campground we prefer - with lots of trees and sheltered camp sites nestled in the bush. We could only get one night so decided against it.

We also visited Hellfire Bay, Rossiter Bay and Thistle Cove. Thistle Cove has an amazing natural feature in Whistling Rock, which echoes the sound of the waves. It's hard not to keep taking photos of all these beautiful spots.

At Rossiter Bay, we had a short walk to the beach through flowering heath.

Birds were a little scarce on this leg of the trip but I did have a fly-past by this Caspian Tern at Rossiter Bay.

Whistling Rock

Looking towards Thistle Cove.

Thistle Cove

Cape Arid National Park - Belinup Campground

27 - 28 November 2018

We wanted to visit Cape Arid while we were in the area so headed there next. It's only about 120km from Lucky Bay so we knew it wouldn't take too long to get there. Our neighbours at Lucky Bay had been down for a drive and told us the unsealed road was in good condition. We found our way to the park entrance (entry fee payable at the entry station) and noticed some warning lights had come on in the car. Bugger! We decided we might as well keep going the short distance to the campground anyway as the car was still driving OK and the brakes were working. It would only be a one night stop though so we would have time to stay in Esperance again if needed.

The campground on the Thomas River is just what we like - sheltered spots with lots of bush. There are even a couple of spots for larger groups. There is self registration at the entrance to the campground so we paid our fee and settled in. Late in the afternoon we noticed a couple of Carnaby's Black Cockatoos had settled into the tree on the edge of our camp. While Mick was getting his camera, a few more came in, and then more and more! Eventually there were so many it was impossible to count them. Lots of photo ops there!

Carnaby's Black Cockatoo.

Carnaby's Black Cockatoos.

On our way out the following morning we called in to Dolphin Cove. There is a walk from the car park over rocky outcrops that provides views of the cove, but it does not go down to the beach. On the way back towards Esperance, we stopped and called the local Toyota dealer who were happy for us to bring the car in as soon as we arrived in town. The problem was located and a fix identified. They had us back on the road in under two hours. We appreciated the great service.