Malanda

26 - 28 November 2014

Our last minute booking has turned out really well. The unit is very well set up with a good kitchen-with just about everything you might need – as well as a decent sized lounge area, separate bedroom and small private veranda. We went for a walk around the grounds – down to the creek and along the edge of the bush. It's a very quiet, pleasant setting.

Lillipillies were flowering all around the grounds attracting lots of bees and butterflies. Most were too high up to photograph but I was able to catch a couple on lower shrubs. There were also plenty of birds around the place, including Rufous Whistler, Rufous Fantail, Silvereye, Bower's Shrike-thrush, Lewin's Honeyeater and Eastern Spinebill. Mick.

Bower's Shrike-thrush

This White-headed Pigeon was photographed next to the unit.

Common Jezabel

Green Awl

On Thursday morning we headed out fairly early - for us - and made our first stop at the Curtain Fig Tree. This magnificent example of a strangler fig has always been a favourite spot. After a walk around the boardwalk which circumnavigates the tree we made our way over to Lake Barrine, another favourite spot.

Little Shrike-thrush at the Curtain Fig Tree

Lake Barrine is one of two crater lakes on the Atherton Tablelands. It is popular with tourists as there is a boat tour as well as a remnant of days gone by - Tea Rooms. This facility has been run by the same family almost continuously since the 1920’s. Apart from this small pocket of privately owned land, the rest of the surrounding area is National Park.

Through the gardens to the Tea Rooms by the lake.

A great view with lunch.

Eastern Spinebill

From the car-park we heard Superb Fruit-doves calling but could not locate them. I would love to get a shot of one of these little beauties but they blend perfectly with the rainforest canopy and are very hard to find.

The beautifully maintained gardens at Lake Barrine are a good place to find  Eastern Spinebill, Dusky Honeyeater and Lewin's Honeyeater. 

There is usually a variety of waterfowl present on the lake. You may see Pelican, Pacific Black

Male King Parrot

Duck, various Cormorants, Eurasian Coot, Dusky Moorhen, Australasian and Great Crested Grebe. The latter can be found in large numbers out in the middle of the lake. The occasional  bird will come closer to shore but usually still too far for a good photograph.

The cruise around the lake is recommended. It's fun and not too expensive. You may be lucky and see a Amethystine Python sunning itself near the lake edge. Turtles and eels are also seen. Mick.


When we arrived, Mick spotted a fellow birdo – you could tell by the binoculars around his neck - a dead giveaway! Anyway, Mick asked if there was anything interesting around and he suggested we might see Tooth-billed Bowerbird on the 600m ‘rainforest walk’ so of course, that was where we headed. Although we have visited Lake Barrine lots of times we had never taken this particular track. It was a very pleasant walk, but we didn’t see the Bowerbirds even though we could hear them. When we came to a fork in the path, we decided to take the 4.7km walk back to the tearooms – definitely the long way round! It’s actually a really nice walk around the lake, through the rainforest. The path is mostly flat with a few gentle uphill sections and a small number of easy stairs. It took us about 2 hours, but only because we kept stopping to try and photograph birds. We made it back in time for lunch at the tearoom, with a beautiful view of the lake.

Male Chowchilla, a bird of the rainforest floor, difficult to photograph in the low light.

Near our table, this female Olive-backed Sunbird returned again and again to add to it's nest.

After lunch we headed in to Yungaburrafor a look at a new shop – a fudgery which has only been open for a short time. We believe in supporting small, local businesses so made a small purchase. Next we made our way down to Peterson Creek. There has been a significant amount of re-vegetation carried out by the local Landcare group and the walk along the creek is very pleasant – mostly flat with some gentle uphill sections. We didn’t see much birdlife (too hot and dry) but Mick did spot a Green Ringtail Possum asleep in tree. Much easier to photograph than birds which keep flying away!

Red-browed Finch

Green Ringtail Possum

Green Ringtail Possum

Sleepy looking Bush Stone-curlew sitting on eggs

Next stop back home to the unit and a well deserved swim. It’s usually cool up on the Tablelands, but this time it was really hot. 

We left for home fairly early on Friday and stopped at Cardwell for coffee. We decided to visit Big Crystal Creek for lunch. There is a camping area, a picnic area and a creek for swimming. We'll file this one away for future reference.

Kuranda

25 – 26 November 2014

After a leisurely morning at The Sanctuary, with cassowary encounter, we headed up the highway to the Atherton Tablelands – another of our favourite spots. We stopped for coffee at a cafe near Millaa Millaa, at the op-shops in Malanda, and in Atherton where we also had lunch. We always manage to drag our journeys out as much as possible.

We arrived at our destination – a rainforest cottage near Kuranda, but there was no-one there. When the owner returned it seemed there had been a mix up with our booking and she had us booked in for three nights next week, not this week. She was able to offer us other accommodation which we accepted for one night only. The mix up was a bit of a blessing in disguise – the cottage was “rustic” to say the least, with the certainty of nocturnal creepy crawlies, and the alternative was a little better, but very small. We also discovered late in the evening that the hot water wasn't working! (This was sorted out in the morning – but didn't make for a pleasant stay).

We were rewarded in the morning with another “up close” encounter with not one, but two, cassowaries. They spent about an hour wandering around near the upper level deck where breakfast is served to B&B guests. The male was known to be the father of a chick but the young one hadn't been seen for a number of days – causing some concern. The chick was far too young to be wandering around on its own so fears for its safety were genuine. We will probably never know of its fate.

Southern Cassowary taken from the veranda

Musky rat-kangaroo

We packed up and headed to Mareeba to consider our accommodation options over coffee and then lunch in the park near the visitor centre. We found a couple of likely options and tried calling but no-one was answering their phones, so we moved on to Atherton and Platypus Park – another regular stop. We tried calling again and this time did get an answer of sorts – he would phone me back in a few minutes – he didn’t!

We drove back to the Atherton visitor centre and tried calling places again – and this time the owner of Johnstone River Retreat answered and advised that, yes, she did have a unit available (and yes the price was very reasonable) so we headed over to have a look (just in case it wasn't quite as described). Although it is really a garden setting rather than our preferred rainforest, it is on the river so we booked in for two nights. The unit is spacious, has a private veranda and there is a swimming pool.

Mission Beach

24 - 25 November 2014

We've done it again - headed to Mission Beach as the first stop on a short break away - but this time we have broken with tradition and have chosen a different place to stay. After our usual coffee and op shopping in Ingham, and lunch in Cardwell, we arrived at the Sanctuary Retreat. Not really in Mission Beach (the address is Garner's Beach) the retreat is a few kilometres north. Perched on a ridge with views to the ocean, this is a very peaceful place to stay - but there's not a lot to do (which may be why some people stay here).

The view from the long house deck at sunset.

On arrival at the car park, guests must contact reception via a phone provided to be collected by 4WD. The road up to the accommodation is extremely steep and private vehicles are not permitted on this part of the property. We had read in various places that the road and walking paths are very steep, and only suitable for those with a reasonable level of fitness - and they weren't kidding!

Our cabin was nestled in the rainforest with canopy views. Although quite small (compared to places we usually stay) the room is well set up and private, but not air-conditioned. A table and chairs on the balcony allowed us to sit and enjoy the afternoon breeze. There were surprisingly few birds, so no action with the camera. Because it was so hot, we decided to go for a swim. Down the steep path was hard enough but coming back was a killer - short but really steep, sure had the heart pumping.

Because you don't have easy access to your car, you're sort of locked in to eating at the retreat restaurant. The menu is small, changes daily and has a selection of genuine vegetarian options, as well as meat dishes. Although I'm a meat eater it was nice to be able to order a proper vegetarian meal. Our meals were very tasty, beautifully presented and reasonably priced considering guests are pretty much a captive audience.

It's not so bad being a captive audience.

Being in the middle of the rainforest we expected the usual night noises but it was actually very quiet. In the morning we opened the curtains and enjoyed the early morning view of the treetops. The breakfast menu was just as good as the dinner menu, again with various vegetarian options. Mick deviated from his usual bacon and eggs to try the eggs benedict with ham - delicious. My scrambled eggs came just as I like them - fully cooked (I really don't like runny eggs).

Walking back to our cabin after breakfast we spotted a few butterflies so Mick collected the camera and started to stalk these elusive creatures - but what a surprise when he spotted a cassowary. This magnificent and highly endangered species is declining in numbers due to a number of factors including loss of habitat, dog attacks and vehicle accidents so it is always a treat to see one in the bush. Mission Beach has always been a good spot to see cassowaries. Visitors will often see "recent cassowary crossing" signs along the road from Tully and around Mission Beach.

Southern Cassowary

Southern Cassowary

At first this one was snuggled into the bush drinking from a water point, but after a while it began to walk across the track and into the bush for a feed, then up the track towards us. We kept our distance as cassowaries can be dangerous - their enormous claws can inflict serious injuries and we had no desire to antagonize this particular specimen. We both took lots of photos - some completely out of focus, but with a few good ones.

This was was not the greatest birding location I've been to. What it lacked in variety, however, was certainly compensated for by this wonderful encounter. The Cassowary is as beautiful as it is dangerous and any interaction should be from a safe distance and with an escape route for both you and the bird in mind. At this time of the year male birds may have a chick or two at heel and could react savagely to any perceived threat. Their stout legs and sharp claws make formidable weapons. With this in mind, I believe I have an excuse for the slightly shaky shots above. Mick.

Atherton Tablelands

25 - 28 October 2014

Our next stop would be the beautiful Atherton Tablelands. From Cairns you can travel north and go via Kuranda and Mareeba, or go south via Gordonvale and straight to Yungaburra. We opted for the longer journey via Kuranda. Both the Gillies Highway and Kuranda Range Road are steep and windy, and both can be dangerous, but Kuranda Range itself is much shorter. Besides we had all day to get to The Canopy in Tarzali.

Once we reached Kuranda, just on 9.00 am, we stopped for coffee only to discover that Kuranda doesn't really get going until later in the morning - we suspected once the tourists start arriving via Skyrail and the Kuranda Rail. We did find one coffee shop open and enjoyed our coffee - complete with milk art - before checking out the local op shop. We also did a spot of Christmas shopping in one of the few shops that were open.

Great work by the barista, worth a photo!

As luck would have it we had booked this visit on the weekend of the famed Yungaburra Markets, so this was to be a definite stop. Yungaburra Markets started as a fundraiser for the local primary school, and have grown into the biggest and best markets in the north. They are held on the fourth Saturday of each month, except December when they are held before Christmas. We wandered through the numerous stalls selling local produce, clothing, natural remedies, soaps, gift ware and numerous foods. We bought nitrate free bacon and fresh local vegies, as well as some more Christmas gifts. Traditional Swiss bratwurst hot dogs and a deep fried, battered potato twist was not the healthiest lunch - but it sure tasted good! 

Christie is serenaded by a barber shop quartet as she chooses a dip.

Not only was it markets day, it was also Tablelands Folk Festival weekend, so like Green Island, Yungaburra was packed with tourists, but unlike Green Island, these were a different breed altogether. Everyone was relaxed and friendly, polite and courteous. Despite the crowds, it was a nice place to be.

Green-eyed Tree Frog found in the bath room.

From Yungaburra we drove on to Malanda to pick up more supplies and then on to The Canopy. We had stayed here before and chose to return as it is a beautiful spot in the rainforest, with abundant birdlife. Bird seed and over-ripe bananas are provided so you can attract the locals and it didn't take long for Mick to get the camera set up on the tripod on the balcony of our pole house. Brush turkeys were the noisiest visitors and catbirds the greediest. King parrots, Macleays honeyeaters, Victoria's riflebirds and many others visited throughout the afternoon. 

This is the boss turkey. There were at least six others in his entourage constantly hanging around, totally obsessed with getting a share of whatever food was on offer.

Light levels were always very low in the rainforest, making photography very difficult. I found myself pushing the ISO up to numbers I'd not attempted before and still not even getting 1/160 s. As a result, close up detail has suffered and lots of shots were blurred and unusable. Luckily, modern cameras can handle high ISOs very well and in in conjunction with noise reduction and editing software, a decent image is possible. 

I set up my camera with a flash attached on a tripod at the other end of the deck from where birds came in to feed. Whenever birds came in I clicked away like crazy. Unfortunately the feeder is at the darkest part of the deck. This was a great learning experience as I worked through different combinations of ISOs and fill flash values. Because of the lack of light the aperture was always wide open. Mick.

Spotted Catbird

Wompoo Fruit-Dove

I could never tire of this view.

Sunday was a relaxing day spent at the cabin, with Mick alternating between taking and processing photos. Some of the birds eat out of your hands and one of the king parrots was quite demanding – sitting on the table and making eye contact and noises until a handful of seed was made available.

Australian King-Parrot Female

Macleays honeyeater

Victoria's riflebird Male

Victoria's riflebird Female flicks banana into its mouth.

We were awoken by noises inside the cabin to discover a midnight possum raiding party. I had forgotten to close the louvres in the kitchen before retiring for the night! The Special K cereal was overlooked in favour of bananas, and date and walnut loaf as the food of choice for these very cheeky creatures. As Mick held the door open to shoo one out, another came strolling in. The trail of possum pee revealed that they had even been into the bedroom – perhaps checking that we were asleep. 

They are a pest but an irresistible one.

The local currency is banana.

We headed out - having cleaned up after the possum party - and made our way to Malanda and then Atherton for the op-shops. Then it was on to "Platypus Park" and Hastie Swamp for some bird watching. There is a great hide at the swamp, but not many birds on this occasion. Back to Malanda for lunch at the bakery - tasty pies and good service (they even provide hand sanitiser on the tables!) Back over to Yungaburra for a browse in the shops and you would never know the place had been crawling with thousands of tourists and visitors two days before - it was back to its sleepy and peaceful self.

Eastern Water-dragon.

Bridled Honeyeater sun-baking.

Gerygone feeding young in nest.

These three shots were all taken at another favourite birding place of mine, Platypus Park in Atherton. I make a point of visiting each time we are on the Atherton Tableland and am never disappointed. 

Because of the diverse habitat available in a relatively small area, there is always plenty of wildlife. Because this is a suburban park the wildlife is more accustomed to humans, so you are generally able to get a little closer. A large Evodia tree in the park blooms around Christmas each year and becomes the focus of a multitude of nectar-loving creatures. Several species of honeyeater, butterflies, lorikeets, beetles and other insects all flock to the abundant nectar supply. More pics to come. Mick.

On arriving home, we went for a short walk on the property to visit the turtle hangouts. These creatures know to expect to be fed when you arrive, and come to the bank in expectation. I held a handful of the turtle food provided and was bitten on the fingers for my trouble. I didn't expect that.

We spent our last morning just enjoying the surroundings - and taking more photos, so we didn't leave until almost ten o'clock. A good run home, with a stop in Cardwell for lunch.

Time to start planning the next trip....

Cairns

23 - 25 October 2014
We arrived in Cairns and checked in to the Mantra Esplanade - we've stayed here a couple of times before - and discovered we had been upgraded to an "ocean view" apartment rather than "city view". We had a one bedroom apartment near the corner of the building on the sixth floor (only one above us) with a  great view over the lagoon swimming pool and out over the ocean.

View of the lagoon and the entertainment space where twirling and juggling fire were the flavour of the week.

We had been considering a trip out to Green Island and decided to book for Friday. We booked through the hotel reception and they were able to give us a generous discount. Bonus! Dinner at "Cafe Thai" just off the Esplanade was very nice. We've never been to Thailand so don't know if it's authentic - but it was very tasty, good value for money and the service was great.

Cruise morning looked a little grey.

To avoid the crowds, we had checked in to the "Big Cat" the afternoon before - good decision, as there were heaps of people arriving as we were.

Our transport awaits.

We boarded the boat and waited to set off. Tea and coffee were available as were ginger sea sick tablets. These tablets work very well - I used them when we went on the "Bruny Island Adventure" cruise in Tasmania a few years ago. That trip takes visitors into the mountainous seas of he Great Southern Ocean, so anything to help settle the stomach has to be good. I decided to take one as a precaution even though the waters of the Great Barrier Reef are comparatively benign. The sea was a little lumpy and a number of passengers succumbed to seasickness. Yuk!

Leaving Cairns and the clouds behind.

Bridled Terns all in a row.

We saw turtles from the jetty but they were too quick for me to photograph.

Arriving on the, far from deserted, Island.

Our full day package tour promised 5 hours on Green Island, and we were on the go the whole time. We started with a stop in the resort village area and then headed out on the walk through the middle of this coral cay island, into the National Park. This pleasant walk highlights how small the island really is. If you weren't stopping to photograph birds and read all the interpretive signage, you could do this easily in about 15 minutes. The well made path is perfectly flat, and mostly boardwalk.

Out of all the bird species found on and around the island, I was particularly interested in photographing the Rose-crowned Fruit-dove. This bird appears on many Eremaea Birdlines lists for Green Island so I thought it would be fairly easy to shoot. Unfortunately, I only encountered two individuals. One zoomed overhead in a flash and the other was in an inaccessible area and had to be photographed from a long way away. Such a beautiful bird, I wish I could have got closer. Mick.

Pacific Golden Plover

Eastern Reef Egret, grey morph

 

Eastern Reef Egret, white morph

Rose-crowned Fruit-dove

Black-naped tern with lunch.

Buff-banded Rails are common and fearless on the Island. This contrasts with the skulking nature of their mainland cousins.

We arrived at the beach on the other side of the island, and made our way back around to the jetty via the beach. The total distance around the island is only about 1.5km - an easy 45 minute walk. You can swim and snorkel anywhere along the beach but are warned about the dangers of marine stingers.

We returned to the boat for the lunch included in our package, and then the (also included) glass bottom boat tour.

The glass bottom boat, a very touristy thing to do.

The fish are paid an appearance fee in the form of food. I suppose this makes the Silver Gulls the tax department.

Bat fish

Tea-leaf trevally

Back to the beach for a swim - you can't go to a tropical island and not swim. The water was very shallow - about knee deep, and surprisingly cool, but still a nice swim. Back into the rainforest to try again for some birds and then it was time to go home.

Green Island is a beautiful coral cay on the Great Barrier Reef - and worth visiting if it weren't for the hordes of ugly tourists. I know I was a tourist too but I didn't push past anyone to get to the head of a line, smoke in no smoking areas, tell people that seats were taken when they clearly weren't, invade others' personal space and stop in the middle of walk ways and entrances. (End of rant). I noticed a fair amount of litter around and am astounded that someone could consciously trash such a beautiful place. Mick.

On our return we walked along the Esplanade to observe the waterbirds - the tide was too far out for photos. From our balcony we were able to watch the entertainment near the lagoon pool - acrobatics and fire twirling.

Fire twirling performer taken from the balcony.

The weather has been beautiful and we have enjoyed our stay in this part of our beautiful country.

Next stop - Atherton Tablelands.

•  Cairns Esplanade is an all time favourite place of ours. Great for birds, people watching, eating and drinking.
• In the city (44 Spence St) you can find a huge variety of fresh local produce at Rusty's Markets.
• There are always birds feeding on the mudflats along the Esplanade.