Mission Beach

24 - 25 November 2014

We've done it again - headed to Mission Beach as the first stop on a short break away - but this time we have broken with tradition and have chosen a different place to stay. After our usual coffee and op shopping in Ingham, and lunch in Cardwell, we arrived at the Sanctuary Retreat. Not really in Mission Beach (the address is Garner's Beach) the retreat is a few kilometres north. Perched on a ridge with views to the ocean, this is a very peaceful place to stay - but there's not a lot to do (which may be why some people stay here).

The view from the long house deck at sunset.

On arrival at the car park, guests must contact reception via a phone provided to be collected by 4WD. The road up to the accommodation is extremely steep and private vehicles are not permitted on this part of the property. We had read in various places that the road and walking paths are very steep, and only suitable for those with a reasonable level of fitness - and they weren't kidding!

Our cabin was nestled in the rainforest with canopy views. Although quite small (compared to places we usually stay) the room is well set up and private, but not air-conditioned. A table and chairs on the balcony allowed us to sit and enjoy the afternoon breeze. There were surprisingly few birds, so no action with the camera. Because it was so hot, we decided to go for a swim. Down the steep path was hard enough but coming back was a killer - short but really steep, sure had the heart pumping.

Because you don't have easy access to your car, you're sort of locked in to eating at the retreat restaurant. The menu is small, changes daily and has a selection of genuine vegetarian options, as well as meat dishes. Although I'm a meat eater it was nice to be able to order a proper vegetarian meal. Our meals were very tasty, beautifully presented and reasonably priced considering guests are pretty much a captive audience.

It's not so bad being a captive audience.

Being in the middle of the rainforest we expected the usual night noises but it was actually very quiet. In the morning we opened the curtains and enjoyed the early morning view of the treetops. The breakfast menu was just as good as the dinner menu, again with various vegetarian options. Mick deviated from his usual bacon and eggs to try the eggs benedict with ham - delicious. My scrambled eggs came just as I like them - fully cooked (I really don't like runny eggs).

Walking back to our cabin after breakfast we spotted a few butterflies so Mick collected the camera and started to stalk these elusive creatures - but what a surprise when he spotted a cassowary. This magnificent and highly endangered species is declining in numbers due to a number of factors including loss of habitat, dog attacks and vehicle accidents so it is always a treat to see one in the bush. Mission Beach has always been a good spot to see cassowaries. Visitors will often see "recent cassowary crossing" signs along the road from Tully and around Mission Beach.

Southern Cassowary

Southern Cassowary

At first this one was snuggled into the bush drinking from a water point, but after a while it began to walk across the track and into the bush for a feed, then up the track towards us. We kept our distance as cassowaries can be dangerous - their enormous claws can inflict serious injuries and we had no desire to antagonize this particular specimen. We both took lots of photos - some completely out of focus, but with a few good ones.

This was was not the greatest birding location I've been to. What it lacked in variety, however, was certainly compensated for by this wonderful encounter. The Cassowary is as beautiful as it is dangerous and any interaction should be from a safe distance and with an escape route for both you and the bird in mind. At this time of the year male birds may have a chick or two at heel and could react savagely to any perceived threat. Their stout legs and sharp claws make formidable weapons. With this in mind, I believe I have an excuse for the slightly shaky shots above. Mick.