Kuranda

25 – 26 November 2014

After a leisurely morning at The Sanctuary, with cassowary encounter, we headed up the highway to the Atherton Tablelands – another of our favourite spots. We stopped for coffee at a cafe near Millaa Millaa, at the op-shops in Malanda, and in Atherton where we also had lunch. We always manage to drag our journeys out as much as possible.

We arrived at our destination – a rainforest cottage near Kuranda, but there was no-one there. When the owner returned it seemed there had been a mix up with our booking and she had us booked in for three nights next week, not this week. She was able to offer us other accommodation which we accepted for one night only. The mix up was a bit of a blessing in disguise – the cottage was “rustic” to say the least, with the certainty of nocturnal creepy crawlies, and the alternative was a little better, but very small. We also discovered late in the evening that the hot water wasn't working! (This was sorted out in the morning – but didn't make for a pleasant stay).

We were rewarded in the morning with another “up close” encounter with not one, but two, cassowaries. They spent about an hour wandering around near the upper level deck where breakfast is served to B&B guests. The male was known to be the father of a chick but the young one hadn't been seen for a number of days – causing some concern. The chick was far too young to be wandering around on its own so fears for its safety were genuine. We will probably never know of its fate.

Southern Cassowary taken from the veranda

Musky rat-kangaroo

We packed up and headed to Mareeba to consider our accommodation options over coffee and then lunch in the park near the visitor centre. We found a couple of likely options and tried calling but no-one was answering their phones, so we moved on to Atherton and Platypus Park – another regular stop. We tried calling again and this time did get an answer of sorts – he would phone me back in a few minutes – he didn’t!

We drove back to the Atherton visitor centre and tried calling places again – and this time the owner of Johnstone River Retreat answered and advised that, yes, she did have a unit available (and yes the price was very reasonable) so we headed over to have a look (just in case it wasn't quite as described). Although it is really a garden setting rather than our preferred rainforest, it is on the river so we booked in for two nights. The unit is spacious, has a private veranda and there is a swimming pool.

Mission Beach

24 - 25 November 2014

We've done it again - headed to Mission Beach as the first stop on a short break away - but this time we have broken with tradition and have chosen a different place to stay. After our usual coffee and op shopping in Ingham, and lunch in Cardwell, we arrived at the Sanctuary Retreat. Not really in Mission Beach (the address is Garner's Beach) the retreat is a few kilometres north. Perched on a ridge with views to the ocean, this is a very peaceful place to stay - but there's not a lot to do (which may be why some people stay here).

The view from the long house deck at sunset.

On arrival at the car park, guests must contact reception via a phone provided to be collected by 4WD. The road up to the accommodation is extremely steep and private vehicles are not permitted on this part of the property. We had read in various places that the road and walking paths are very steep, and only suitable for those with a reasonable level of fitness - and they weren't kidding!

Our cabin was nestled in the rainforest with canopy views. Although quite small (compared to places we usually stay) the room is well set up and private, but not air-conditioned. A table and chairs on the balcony allowed us to sit and enjoy the afternoon breeze. There were surprisingly few birds, so no action with the camera. Because it was so hot, we decided to go for a swim. Down the steep path was hard enough but coming back was a killer - short but really steep, sure had the heart pumping.

Because you don't have easy access to your car, you're sort of locked in to eating at the retreat restaurant. The menu is small, changes daily and has a selection of genuine vegetarian options, as well as meat dishes. Although I'm a meat eater it was nice to be able to order a proper vegetarian meal. Our meals were very tasty, beautifully presented and reasonably priced considering guests are pretty much a captive audience.

It's not so bad being a captive audience.

Being in the middle of the rainforest we expected the usual night noises but it was actually very quiet. In the morning we opened the curtains and enjoyed the early morning view of the treetops. The breakfast menu was just as good as the dinner menu, again with various vegetarian options. Mick deviated from his usual bacon and eggs to try the eggs benedict with ham - delicious. My scrambled eggs came just as I like them - fully cooked (I really don't like runny eggs).

Walking back to our cabin after breakfast we spotted a few butterflies so Mick collected the camera and started to stalk these elusive creatures - but what a surprise when he spotted a cassowary. This magnificent and highly endangered species is declining in numbers due to a number of factors including loss of habitat, dog attacks and vehicle accidents so it is always a treat to see one in the bush. Mission Beach has always been a good spot to see cassowaries. Visitors will often see "recent cassowary crossing" signs along the road from Tully and around Mission Beach.

Southern Cassowary

Southern Cassowary

At first this one was snuggled into the bush drinking from a water point, but after a while it began to walk across the track and into the bush for a feed, then up the track towards us. We kept our distance as cassowaries can be dangerous - their enormous claws can inflict serious injuries and we had no desire to antagonize this particular specimen. We both took lots of photos - some completely out of focus, but with a few good ones.

This was was not the greatest birding location I've been to. What it lacked in variety, however, was certainly compensated for by this wonderful encounter. The Cassowary is as beautiful as it is dangerous and any interaction should be from a safe distance and with an escape route for both you and the bird in mind. At this time of the year male birds may have a chick or two at heel and could react savagely to any perceived threat. Their stout legs and sharp claws make formidable weapons. With this in mind, I believe I have an excuse for the slightly shaky shots above. Mick.