Etty Bay

 12 - 14 June 2025

We chose to go to Etty Bay because we had the car booked in for a major repair at Toyota in Innisfail, and because of cassowaries. Mick has lots of photos of this magnificent bird, but he is always chasing the perfect shot. We left Atherton after lunch in the park and drove down the Palmerston Highway, arriving in Etty Bay mid-afternoon.

We pulled up at the caravan park reception and as I stepped out of the car, there was a cassowary only a couple of metres away from me. Naturally Mick grabbed the camera while I checked in. Eventually he was able to drag himself away long enough to set up camp.

The welcome cassowary

We realised there were two cassowaries active in and around the caravan park and beach and spent a lot of time trying to photograph them. One was more than happy to come right into our camp - looking for food. Feeding cassowaries is strictly forbidden, but that doesn't stop them helping themselves to whatever they can find.

On Friday morning we drove in to Innifail to drop the car off and pick up a hire car. On the way we saw a young cassowary on the side of the road  but didn't stop for photos. On the way home from Innisfail we drove down to Mourilyan Harbour for a look. There's not much to see, but we did see yet another cassowary on the side of the road on our way back. That made four for the trip - most times we have only seen one.

A spectacular moonrise was an added bonus

We were only going as far as Cairns then next day so took our time packing up, in between photograpy sessions. We left around 10:00 and headed north.

Etty Bay

1 – 3 October 2024

We’ve been to Etty Bay a number of times, including earlier on this trip and each time we hope to see Cassowaries. Although we have seen one on the road beyond the range twice in recent years, we haven’t seen one on the beach for many years, so Mick was more then a little anxious this time. He really wanted to add one to his "year list" for 2024 and this would be his last chance.

We settled on to a nice site with across from the beach. Most people there were hoping for a cassowary sighting and there were a number of other serious bird photographers camped around the park. Everyone was very helpful and it was easy to tell when one of the resident birds made an appearance as people started moving in the same direction as word spread. We were all quite excited to see such a magnificent and striking bird close up, moving around the beach and campground quite confidently.

It's pretty exciting to see a cassowary up close

We stayed for two nights and were treated to multiple sightings, including of a dad with his chick. Mick was very pleased to finally get the sort of photos he had been after. Even if he hadn’t, Etty Bay is still a really nice place to spend a couple of nights.

We had been trying to work out which way we would travel on our way south and decided to go back up though the Atherton Tablelands and along the inland route. Our first overnight stop would be Innot Hot Springs.

 

Etty Bay

22 – 24 July 2024

Etty Bay is well known for its resident cassowaries and there is a small caravan park so we set up camp there for 2 nights. The sites are laid out in such a way that we could see the beach even though we didn’t have a beachfront site. Mick was hopeful of getting a cassowary photo after missing out last time we visited. That time we didn’t see one until we were on the road just over the hill when leaving Etty Bay. Unfortunately photo opportunities were limited that time.

We enjoyed long walks along the beach and in the adjacent rainforest, but there was not a cassowary to be seen. Mick thought that maybe the time if year was to blame, with adults tending eggs and therefore not wandering around as they usually do. We would just have to come back again at a different time of year. It was a lovely spot for a few days anyway.

This stunning sunrise almost made up for the lack of cassowaries

Kurrimine Beach

4 – 5 October 2023

We left Cairns and headed south towards Kurrimine Beach. Because it’s a relatively short drive we decided to detour via Etty Bay, just south of Innisfail. Cassowaries are often seen near the beach at Etty Bay and we were hoping to add to our bird list for the trip. We drove down to the beach and made morning tea – all the while hoping for one of these magnificent, huge birds to come wandering along. Unfortunately there were none around that day.

We jumped back in the car to return to the highway and were very surprised and pleased to see a cassowary wandering along the edge of the road a few kilometres away from the beach, adjacent to some rainforest. We did get a good look but by the time we were able to turn the car (and camper trailer) around, it had disappeared into the bush. At least we were able to add it to the list.

We moved on to Kurrimine Beach and arrived at lunch time. The caravan park was fairly full even though it was late in the tourist season and we ended up in a spot near the road with little shade. It wouldn’t matter for one night but we were glad we weren’t staying longer. During the afternoon we went for a walk along the beach – always a favourite activity – and observed heaps of coral spawn washed up. Coral spawning occurs once a year after a full moon, generally in October or November and when sea temperatures are right. It appears there may be some healthy reef in this part of the Great Barrier Reef.

It has become our habit to go out for dinner on the final night of our long trips so we had chosen to stay at King Reef Resort and Caravan Park, which just happens to have a very nice on-site pub bistro. We sat outside to enjoy the view and were entertained by some of the local curlews who wandered around the tables.

We left early the next morning for the final leg of our almost two year journey – returning to Townsville to make a new home (for now at least).

Kuranda

25 – 26 November 2014

After a leisurely morning at The Sanctuary, with cassowary encounter, we headed up the highway to the Atherton Tablelands – another of our favourite spots. We stopped for coffee at a cafe near Millaa Millaa, at the op-shops in Malanda, and in Atherton where we also had lunch. We always manage to drag our journeys out as much as possible.

We arrived at our destination – a rainforest cottage near Kuranda, but there was no-one there. When the owner returned it seemed there had been a mix up with our booking and she had us booked in for three nights next week, not this week. She was able to offer us other accommodation which we accepted for one night only. The mix up was a bit of a blessing in disguise – the cottage was “rustic” to say the least, with the certainty of nocturnal creepy crawlies, and the alternative was a little better, but very small. We also discovered late in the evening that the hot water wasn't working! (This was sorted out in the morning – but didn't make for a pleasant stay).

We were rewarded in the morning with another “up close” encounter with not one, but two, cassowaries. They spent about an hour wandering around near the upper level deck where breakfast is served to B&B guests. The male was known to be the father of a chick but the young one hadn't been seen for a number of days – causing some concern. The chick was far too young to be wandering around on its own so fears for its safety were genuine. We will probably never know of its fate.

Southern Cassowary taken from the veranda

Musky rat-kangaroo

We packed up and headed to Mareeba to consider our accommodation options over coffee and then lunch in the park near the visitor centre. We found a couple of likely options and tried calling but no-one was answering their phones, so we moved on to Atherton and Platypus Park – another regular stop. We tried calling again and this time did get an answer of sorts – he would phone me back in a few minutes – he didn’t!

We drove back to the Atherton visitor centre and tried calling places again – and this time the owner of Johnstone River Retreat answered and advised that, yes, she did have a unit available (and yes the price was very reasonable) so we headed over to have a look (just in case it wasn't quite as described). Although it is really a garden setting rather than our preferred rainforest, it is on the river so we booked in for two nights. The unit is spacious, has a private veranda and there is a swimming pool.

Mission Beach

24 - 25 November 2014

We've done it again - headed to Mission Beach as the first stop on a short break away - but this time we have broken with tradition and have chosen a different place to stay. After our usual coffee and op shopping in Ingham, and lunch in Cardwell, we arrived at the Sanctuary Retreat. Not really in Mission Beach (the address is Garner's Beach) the retreat is a few kilometres north. Perched on a ridge with views to the ocean, this is a very peaceful place to stay - but there's not a lot to do (which may be why some people stay here).

The view from the long house deck at sunset.

On arrival at the car park, guests must contact reception via a phone provided to be collected by 4WD. The road up to the accommodation is extremely steep and private vehicles are not permitted on this part of the property. We had read in various places that the road and walking paths are very steep, and only suitable for those with a reasonable level of fitness - and they weren't kidding!

Our cabin was nestled in the rainforest with canopy views. Although quite small (compared to places we usually stay) the room is well set up and private, but not air-conditioned. A table and chairs on the balcony allowed us to sit and enjoy the afternoon breeze. There were surprisingly few birds, so no action with the camera. Because it was so hot, we decided to go for a swim. Down the steep path was hard enough but coming back was a killer - short but really steep, sure had the heart pumping.

Because you don't have easy access to your car, you're sort of locked in to eating at the retreat restaurant. The menu is small, changes daily and has a selection of genuine vegetarian options, as well as meat dishes. Although I'm a meat eater it was nice to be able to order a proper vegetarian meal. Our meals were very tasty, beautifully presented and reasonably priced considering guests are pretty much a captive audience.

It's not so bad being a captive audience.

Being in the middle of the rainforest we expected the usual night noises but it was actually very quiet. In the morning we opened the curtains and enjoyed the early morning view of the treetops. The breakfast menu was just as good as the dinner menu, again with various vegetarian options. Mick deviated from his usual bacon and eggs to try the eggs benedict with ham - delicious. My scrambled eggs came just as I like them - fully cooked (I really don't like runny eggs).

Walking back to our cabin after breakfast we spotted a few butterflies so Mick collected the camera and started to stalk these elusive creatures - but what a surprise when he spotted a cassowary. This magnificent and highly endangered species is declining in numbers due to a number of factors including loss of habitat, dog attacks and vehicle accidents so it is always a treat to see one in the bush. Mission Beach has always been a good spot to see cassowaries. Visitors will often see "recent cassowary crossing" signs along the road from Tully and around Mission Beach.

Southern Cassowary

Southern Cassowary

At first this one was snuggled into the bush drinking from a water point, but after a while it began to walk across the track and into the bush for a feed, then up the track towards us. We kept our distance as cassowaries can be dangerous - their enormous claws can inflict serious injuries and we had no desire to antagonize this particular specimen. We both took lots of photos - some completely out of focus, but with a few good ones.

This was was not the greatest birding location I've been to. What it lacked in variety, however, was certainly compensated for by this wonderful encounter. The Cassowary is as beautiful as it is dangerous and any interaction should be from a safe distance and with an escape route for both you and the bird in mind. At this time of the year male birds may have a chick or two at heel and could react savagely to any perceived threat. Their stout legs and sharp claws make formidable weapons. With this in mind, I believe I have an excuse for the slightly shaky shots above. Mick.