Kutini-Payamu National Park – Cook’s Hut Campground

21 – 24 August 2024

We travelled back down the Peninsula Devemopment Road (PDR to locals) and turned off towards Lockhart River and Kutini-Payamu  (Iron Range)National Park. Cooks Hut Campground is fairly small, and nestled in the rainforest so we were fully aware that we might get rained on. We had been there before, so had a good idea which spot to book.

Not much sun for the solar, but a still a great spot

When we arrived we were the only ones there, but later in the afternoon a large group arrived and set up camp in the space in the middle rather than in their designated campsites. This resulted in less privacy than we could otherwise have expected from the site we had booked. This seems to be a common occurrence with many people travelling in large groups, with little regard for other visitors.

Despite the somewhat crowded campground we did have a good time at Cooks Hut, with both daytime and nighttime birding excursions. Also camped there was a group of young people who were on the hunt for reptiles, but who were also interested in birds. Lots of information was shared with these young men.

The clear skies on our last day allowed the canvas to dry off before we packed up. It had rained a bit, just as we had expected. Because we only had a short distance to travel to our next destination, we took our time and stayed in the campground until after lunch. We then drove towards Lockhart River and The Greenhoose and five days of comparative luxury - or so we thought.

A Quick trip up north - Atherton Tablelands

Once again we decided to make a short trip to the Atherton Tablelands to escape the oppressive heat on the coast. Even as regular visitors we are always on the lookout for new places to stay and this trip – without the camper trailer – was to be no exception. With one new location, a return to an old favourite, as well as a return to a new favourite, this was to be a trip full of bird photography opportunities.

From a bird watching and photography point of view, North Queensland in summer offers many great opportunities that are not available in the more comfortable winter months. Summer migrants like the Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher and Metallic Starling are busy nesting. The colourful Blue-faced Parrot Finch can be found at its favourite feeding sites on Mt Lewis and Superb Fruit-Doves are vocal prior to nesting.

I had a wish list of tropical specialties, that I had seen in the past but had not photographed satisfactorily, to look for on this trip. In addition to the birds mentioned above, Tooth-billed Bowerbird, Barred Cucko-shrike, Atherton Scrubwren, Fernwren, Bridled Honeyeater and Mountain Thornbill were all on the list. I also hoped to photograph Boyd's Forest Dragon, a lizard I had often looked for but never seen. Mick

Wondecla

27 – 30 December 2017

We headed up the Bruce Highway towards the tablelands and stopped for lunch at Henrietta Creek campground. Last time we were here we had camped overnight. There is a shelter with picnic tables so it seemed the ideal spot to stop. We then drove into Atherton for a visit to Platypus Park, and then some shopping before making our way to Wondecla. Had we not had time to kill and a need to shop, we could have turned off at Millaa Millaa towards Herberton to reach our destination.

Our first stay was new to us – a birdwatchers cabin inWondecla. There is only one cabin on the property so guests are assured of peace and quiet in the very well-appointed cabin which faces out into the wet sclerophyll forest. A number of bird feeders have been set up a short distance from the verandah. There is a network of walks, some well-established and some being created, mostly along the creek which unfortunately had little water.

Here my target was the Superb Fruit-Dove. Several birds could be heard along the walking tracks but I only saw one briefly at a great distance. Oh well, we'll just have to return for them another time. This is a wonderful place to indulge in my favourite type of bird photography... sitting on a verandah with the camera on a tripod and clicking away at whatever comes in for the feeders. To me this is blissful, as I'm not carrying a heavy camera around! One of the highlights was a visit from Mountain Thornbills. Mick

Eastern Spinebill, one of the many honeyeater species that visited regularly.

Macleay's Honeyeater

Yellow-faced Honeyeater

Scarlet Honeyeater

White-naped Honeyeater

White-cheeked Honeyeater

Red-browed Finch

Mountain Thornbill

Sub adult Australian King-Parrot

Male Australian King-Parrot

A family of Pale-yellow Robins come in to drink around sunset.

Peaceful Dove

The property owners are very happy to share their knowledge and also offered to take us spot-lighting which we declined this time. During our three night stay we completed the loop walks – retracing our steps to the best spots, and spent hours on the verandah watching (and photographing) the birds as they came and went for food and water. We didn't leave the property, just enjoying the peace and quiet - including no phone or TV which is something we quite enjoy.

A Green-eyed Tree Frog waiting for bugs on the window.

Brush-tailed Possum

 Coppery Brush-tailed Possum

A Northern Brown Bandicoot foraged around the cabin in the evening.

Northern Sword-grass Brown Butterflies were common.

There were lots of nocturnal visitors and the regular calls of frogs despite the lack of water in the creek.

Julatten

30 December 2017 – 2 January 2018

Our next stay was at Kingfisher Park – another birdwatchers’ spot – at Julatten. We first visited more than 25 years ago and even though the place has changed hands several times since then, it remains a specialist birding destination. At this time of year the attraction is the buff-breasted paradise kingfisher. Visitors include many international birdwatchers.

Leaving Wondecla in the morning we visited Hasties Swamp (another regular stop-over) and then Platypus Park for lunch. Grocery shopping in Atherton, then the drive through Mareeba to Julatten.

Nankeen Night Heron at Hasties Swamp.

Azure Kingfisher at Platypus Park.

 There are lots of good spots on the property but one of the big attractions of a stay at Kingfisher Park is its proximity to World Heritage rainforest at Mount Lewis. We spent two mornings on the mountain staking out the blue-faced parrot finches. An unexpected bonus was a sighting of Atherton Scrubwrens.

It was great to see Atherton Scrubwrens but this was the best pic I could manage.

Blue-faced Parrot Finch

 I was happy to get shots of Blue-faced Parrot Finch and the Atherton Scrubbie on Mt Lewis but they could have been a lot better. I didn't even get time to look for Fernwren, another very challenging bird to photograph. So it looks like we will have to come back for another try next summer. Mick

Red-necked Crake bathing near our room. These could be heard calling at night.

Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher

Noisy Pitta sub-adult

Dinner on New  Year's Eve at the nearby Highlander Tavern was a bit of a treat - nice meal and a fabulous view.

Eastern stony creek frog at Kingfisher Park

As we were packing to leave Kingfisher Park we noticed a musty smell in the car. A quick check didn't reveal the source - we suspected wet clothing or boots, so we headed off towards Mareeba and a stop at the op-shops. By the time we arrived the smell had started to become unpleasant but we still couldn't find it. 

Lake Eacham

2 January - 5 January

We stopped at The Humpy at Tolga to pick up some fresh produce, snacks and other goodies from this popular fruit and veggie shop. Their selection of other things is fabulous and we always stop and buy ourselves something as a treat. Getting back in the car the smell had started to smell distinctly like something dead!

We stopped for a while in Atherton then made our way through a tropical rainstorm to Lake Eacham and Crater Lakes Rainforest Cottages. We have stayed once before and really liked the accommodation, location and the many visiting birds - so now it's on the favourites list.

On arrival we decided to unpack the car as completely as we could to try to find the source of the offending odour, but without any luck. By this time Mick had decided there was something dead in the air conditioning system, as the smell seemed to be worse we first starting the car. I wasn't so sure and really didn't want to have to start removing bits of the car to find it. I eventually found the instructions for removing the aircon filter - first you have to remove the glove box - and Mick set about the task. Well, he was right - there was a decomposing and very smelly antechinus (native mouse) just behind the filter. Fortunately it wasn't too hard to get it out - just really stinky. A quick drive into Atherton the next morning for a new filter and some heavy duty air freshener was in order. We have no idea how this lovely creature came to find itself in the air conditioner, but we suspect it climbed up into the engine bay when we first arrived at Wondecla looking for warmth - it was very cool in the afternoons and overnight there. We checked that off as a new experience and one we had no desire to repeat.

The climate on the tablelands is significantly cooler than on the coast, but at the height of summer, it was still hot enough away from our rainforest hideaway to go for a swim. Lake Eacham is a very popular spot and there were heaps of people there when we visited each morning. The water was perfect and there was plenty of room for everyone. We also visited Lake Barrine and had morning tea at the tea house - another favourite place. There are walks right around both lakes as well as shorter ones. We went on short walks looking for birds of course!

Lake Eacham is a reliable place to find Barred Cuckoo-shrike.

Little Black Cormorant

Boyd's Forest Dragon

Bridled Honeyeater

Dance practice for a young Victoria's Riflebird.

Lewins Honeyeater

Ginger flower

Tooth-billed Bowerbird at Lake Barrrine

Most of our time was spent at the cottage, feeding and photographing the birds. Mick was also excited to see and photograph his first Boyd's forest dragon. Once again, we enjoyed the peace and quiet of a beautiful spot.

Metallic Starling

On the way home in Tully's Gum Boot Park I found Metallic Starlings nesting down low. Unfortunately it was raining so I only had a very quick session with these amazing birds. Mick

Townsville to Sydney

Cape Hillsborough

7 - 8 October 2015

After several months at home meeting commitments to help organise a conference, we are finally back on the road, bound for Tasmania. This time we are heading down the coast (as we had intended to do in February before Cyclone Marcia thwarted our plans.)

We are picking up a new camper trailer in Sydney so have decided not to camp on the way. We will stay in cabins, pubs and motels along the way. Tonight’s stop is an old favourite, Cape Hillsborough.  We have a beachfront hut - right on the beach as you would expect. Our journey from home in Townsville was very familiar – op shops and fuel in Ayr (where diesel is 11cents a litre cheaper than in Townsville) then lunch at the Metropole Hotel in Proserpine.

On to Cape Hillsborough and a pleasant night on the beach - except for the incessant wind. We ventured out for a walk but the wind made it decidedly unpleasant – glad we weren’t camping.
 

This place is famous for its beach-going roos.

Volcanic rock looking like a site-specific wave sculpture.

A fairly early departure and a stop to walk along the Diversity Boardwalk. There weren’t many birds about, but it was a beautiful walk. There’s lots of interpretive signage to help visitors understand the significance of the land on which they walk.

A lace monitor was sunning itself on the track and was reluctant to move as we approached.

Blue Tiger. These were fluttering all through the bush as we walked.

Rockhampton

8 - 9  October 2015

After the lovely walk on the Diversity Boardwalk at Cape Hillsborough we headed back to the highway at Yakapari (yes it’s a real place), on through Mackay and then a stop in Sarina. The visitor information centre provides free, do it yourself, coffee and tea – and a lovely verandah to allow you to sit a while.

On the road again and lunch at Clairview – another beautiful beachfront, but the wind persisted so we didn’t linger long. The little park at the community centre is perfect for a lunch stop, and as a bonus the centre was open and selling the best ever jam drops. Wish we’d bought more!

On to Rockhampton and overnight at a caravan park just out of town. Nice enough but very noisy with the trains and trucks going right past all through the night.

Up very early to venture out along the Port Alma Road in search of the yellow chat. A local birder had provided Mick with very clear direction about where they could be found, but they weren’t there. Mick thinks they were sheltering from the wind. Looks like we’ll have to come this way again some time.

Nanango

9 - 10 October 2015

Morning tea at Bororen and a picnic lunch at Gin Gin, both with great parking for those towing. We turned off the Bruce Highway at Booyal and travelled the back road to the Isis Highway, then on to Biggenden and Ban Ban Springs, where we turned on to the Burnett Highway bound for Goomeri. We stopped at the visitor information centre and decided to keep going on to Nanango. Another stop at the visitor information centre and we found a quiet motel for the night.

Gilston / Nerang

10 - 11 October 2015

Saturday is market day! We left Nanango and made our way along the D’Aguilar Highway to Yarraman where we stumbled upon our first market for the day. From there it was on to Moore and a community op shop, then along the Brisbane Valley Highway to Toogoolawah and more markets, and finally lunch time in Esk – where there were more markets. From Esk we made our way towards the big city and turned off to the Gold Coast Hinterland.

Because this was a short day’s drive we drove up to Tamborine Mountain and went for a short walk at Witches Falls. We didn’t see any witches, but it was a beautiful walk, but with lots of steps.

From there we made our way down the mountain towards Nerang and our stop at a B&B for the night.

Common Bronzewing

The hosts have bird feeders out on the deck where breakfast is served. Crepes (the host is a French chef) and home-made jams, with the birds for company was a lovely way to start the day.

Galah.

Little Corella

Sulphur-crested Cockatoo

A Laughing Kookaburra catching some sun.

O'Reilly's ( Lamington National Park)

11 - 13 October 2015

Again, a short drive so we went back up to Tamborine – and made our first stop the markets. We headed over to another walk – but had to do battle with some serious traffic on the way. Seems everyone was out for a Sunday drive up the mountain.

Showground markets at Tamborine

Tamborine National Park – MacDonald Section provided us with a very pleasant and easy 1.5 km walk, away from the crowds. From there we found a nice park for a picnic lunch on the way back down the mountain to Canungra.

From Canungra it’s only 35 km to O’Reilly’s, but what a drive. It took nearly an hour – hairpin bends, one way sections, blind corners, give ways and steep climbs. You really do need to concentrate, but it is so worth the effort when you arrive at this most beautiful spot.

We checked into our room - with great views over the valley. Afternoon tea is served in the dining room, so of course we had to partake. We also ventured out onto the Booyang Walk and the Treetop walk. This takes you up into the canopy along an elevated suspended boardwalk - a bit scary when people walk quickly along making it swing.

The view from our balcony.

Eastern Whipbird

Male Regent Bowerbird

Satin Bowerbird at his bower.

Female or young male satin bowerbird.

Our package included breakfast, morning tea and afternoon tea. We opted for a casual dinner in the Rainforest Bar, where I was able to sample to local wine - a very nice Semillon Sauvignon Blanc from the O'Reilly's Vineyard.

Up early for the bird walk - but with a very large group this time. The mainly American tour group were absolutely fascinated by the Aussie birds, but it made for a very different walk. We peeled off after inspecting the brush turkey's mound, and went in for the best breakfast buffet ever. It's hard not to eat too much.

During the day we walked, ate lunch at the cafe, took lots of photos and generally enjoyed a beautiful day. Later in the afternoon we noticed storm clouds brewing in the distance and saw lightning and heard thunder. A check of the BoM (Bureau of Meteorology) weather radar revealed one of SE Qld's severe thunderstorms was headed our way. It was quite beautiful to see the lightning lighting up the sky. The worst occurred while we were up at the Rainforest Bar having another casual dinner. Most visitors sat glued to the spectacle. Fortunately the storm bypassed us and we only received a little rain up on the mountain.

We didn't get up for the early morning bird walk on Tuesday morning, opting instead to head down for breakfast early. We were rewarded with one of the window seats. During breakfast bird feeders are topped up and the local inhabitants gather round for a free feed. Quite a sight while having breakfast.

We fitted in another walk through the treetops before venturing back down the mountain and towards New South Wales.

Rose robin seen on the treetops walk.

Lennox Head

13 - 14 October 2015

We drove into New South Wales through the beautiful Numimbah Valley and via Murwillumbah. For us, this is much better than going through the Gold Coast - although we know many would disagree. We headed into Lennox Head and found a cabin in the caravan park across the road from the beach and adjacent to the lake - quite a nice spot. Our purpose for visiting was to catch up with a birdwatching friend we met on an earlier trip.

We arranged to visit Jo for morning tea and took the short drive out to Flat Rock at her suggestion. Mick was rewarded with a mixture of seabirds and waders. Despite the almost high tide he was able to get close enough for some photos.

Brahminy Kite with a fish stolen from a tern.

Red-necked stints land again after being spooked by the raiding kite.

It's exhausting migrating from the Siberian tundra and then being chased around by kites.

Lesser crested Terns

A Sanderling roosting with Red necked Stints.

Common Tern non breeding plumage

Little Terns

Ruddy Turnstone

Surfer at Flat Rock

This was a great little birding stop and a place I'd love to visit again for a longer stay. Thanks Jo for pointing it out! In my short photo sessions at Flat Rock I was able to see three new birds. They were not too flighty so I was able to get nice and close to some. Mick.

After morning tea with Jo we headed back to Flat Rock for some more photos, then on down the road for lunch at a park by the river in Ballina.

Golden Plovers and a Curlew Sandpiper at Lake Chickiba near Ballina.

Iluka

14 - 16 October 2015

We drove on to Iluka, once a small fishing village and still a fairly quiet place - at this time of year at least. Just before reaching the town we detoured to the Bundjalung National Park at Iluka Bluff for a look at the beach. We discovered there is a rainforest walk so we added that to the list of things to do.

We found a cabin in a caravan park by the river and settled in for two nights. In the morning we drove to the town end of the rainforest walk. It's only 2.5km and an estimated 1.5 hours each way, if you don't stop to take heaps of photos! We walked about 1.5km before turning around so we would be back in time for lunch.

Fruiting trees were full of figbirds, olive-backed orioles, Lewin's honeyeaters and fruit doves feeding noisily as we walked beneath them. Small yellow fruits plopped on the forest floor around us, dislodged by the foraging birds. Despite their number, any views of the birds were fleeting as the thick, dark foliage and glare conspired to hide them from us. A Rose-crowned Fruit dove flew briefly onto a branch in the open and I was able to get a shot.

Lower down, through the undergrowth and tangled vines, golden whistlers, wonga pigeons, eastern whip birds and brown gerygones could be heard. A rufous fantail hopped around not far from the track and I noticed it had been banded. Mick.

Rose-crowned Fruit dove

We went down to the small harbour and bought the freshest fish and chips we've had in a long time. The Fisherman's Co-op sells a range of seafood and the crumbed flathead was just delicious.

The perfect place to have fish & chips!

A walk out onto a break wall revealed that the banks of the Clarence River are guarded by an army of dragons. Every four or five metres, an Eastern Water-dragon eyed us cautiously from its rocky battlement as we passed. There were some fish and birds to look at also. Mick.

Eastern Water-dragon

Eastern Water-dragon

A Striated heron

Welcome swallows not long out of the nest.

 After lunch we walked for a short way along the river near the caravan park, then drove out to the surf beach for a quick look. We then went back to the harbour and walked along the foreshore walk from the pub to the playground.

On our return, hot and thirsty, we stopped for a refreshing and well-earned beer, with a lovely view. Up early for the long drive to Sydney, although we weren't sure we would get all the way - it's estimated as an 8 hour drive.


Pacific Palms (near Foster)

16 - 17 October 2015

We set off early, headed for Sydney. We hoped to be able to drive all the way, but were realistic enough to know that it probably wouldn't be possible. It was a very foggy morning, but was clear in Iluka by the time we left. A drove through the Clarence river valley, the fog reappeared. We stopped by the river at Ulmarra for photos.

Black duck in the fog.

Clarence River

We stopped for fuel in Grafton then drove on to Nambucca Heads for coffee. We detoured into Port Macquarie for lunch by the beach, then back to the highway to Taree. Just past Taree we left the highway to travel the Lakes Way, having made the decision to stay in the area for the night. We stopped in Forster where accommodation (that suited us) was scarce so we moved on, stopping at each caravan park along the way, only to find most also fully booked. We eventually found our way to Pacific Palms - a sleepy little corner nestled between Wallis Lake and the Pacific Ocean at Elizabeth Beach. A nice spot to spend the last night before hitting the "big smoke".