Tasmania once more

15 December 2018 - 7 March 2019

Our trip to Tasmania this time was to be very different to our previous ones. This time we would stay at our daughter's house in Hobart, with our very own granny flat. Repairs, renovations and improvements were sure to keep us busy, but we hoped to get out and about a bit on this, our eighth visit to the Apple Isle. An added bonus this time was that our younger daughter had also made the decision to move south so we would be spending time with her too.

After a reasonable calm night crossing we met up with Jo and Miller and drove to Hobart in convoy with them. The week before Christmas was filled with preparations and the excitement that goes  with being together at this time of year. Christmas day gave us beautiful, warm weather and the opportunity to enjoy lunch outside.

Musk Lorikeets attacked the backyard fruit trees.

One angry looking bird!

In the end we didn't get away as much as we had hoped but we did manage a couple of excursions. We had wanted to travel south but fires raged throughout the forests of southern Tasmania making travel into this part of the state impossible. The fires were so extensive at times, we could see and smell the smoke in Hobart over a  number of weeks.

The smoke cloud that frequently engulfed Hobart.

Mount Field National Park

Mount Field is a bit of a favourite place and we planned to meet Josh's family for a picnic lunch. We had hoped to go up to the alpine section of the park but it was closed due to the risk of bushfire. We had to settle for the main section near the beautiful Russell Falls. We took the short walk to the falls then  set up in a picnic/BBQ shelter area near the river. After lunch we set off on the Russell Falls walk again but this time we took the longer walk that meets up with the Tall Trees walk. Some sections involved many stairs and a few quite steep climbs, but it is always worth it to be in the forest.

Russell Falls

Salamanca Markets

No visit to Hobart is quite complete without a visit to the weekly Saturday markets at Salamanca Place. Selling all sorts of local produce, food, crafts and other locally made wares, there is always a crowd. If the weather is good it's a great way to spend a Saturday morning. The day Mick and I decided to go, the way into the city from our home on the eastern shore was closed to allow for erection of a new pedestrian bridge so we took advantage of the free ferry service from Bellerive. A short stroll from home and we were just in time to board. There is no regular ferry service in Hobart from the eastern shore to the city, so this was quite a treat for locals and visitors alike. Our timing was out for the trip home so we caught the bus instead - not nearly as much fun as the ferry.

Puddleduck Vineyard and Winery
A guided tour of this small family vineyard and winery was the perfect gift from Julia and Josh. Only 15 minutes from out temporary Hobart home, we booked for a day when the forecast was for perfect weather - and it just happened to be New Year's Eve. With only one other couple on the tour, we had a really personalised look at the winery, and tasted some wine straight from the barrel. We also learned about the different methods used for making sparkling wine. After the tour we settled in for a wine tasting which we accompanied with a platter of delicious local goodies. Working our way through the various wines including Bubbleduck, riesling, rose and pinot noir, the biggest surprise was the verjuice. I always thought (thanks to Maggie Beer) that this was used solely in cooking but you can drink the good quality product and it is delicious! Who knew? Of course we took home a bottle of bubbles to see in the new year - and it was very nice indeed - even the beer drinker enjoyed it.

The wine tasting was perfectly complemented by a platter of local produce.

Taste of Tasmania

Each year the Taste of Tasmania is held on the Hobart waterfront. Originally aimed at giving Sydney-Hobart Yacht Race participants and visitors a reason to stay on a bit longer, this week long festival has now celebrated its 30th year. Busy and fun, with over 100 stallholders entry was free (although there is talk that this might change), but there were also a number of paid activities such as cooking workshops, demonstrations and classes, and a New Year's Eve celebration. Julia went along to a cooking class - well, ice cream and sorbet actually, but I guess you can count that as food. We went in with Jo and Miller to meet her for lunch afterwards. It was a beautiful warm and sunny day, just perfect for a day out. It was so hard to choose what to have to eat, and the array of locally produced wine, cider, gin and whisky left our heads spinning. Something we have noticed in Tassie is that vegetarians and vegans are generally well catered for, and Taste was no exception.

The maxi yachts are surprisingly accessible to the public.

The winner Wild Oats XI with Taste of Tassie in the background.

Some of the Taste entertainment.

Inside the big food hall.

Summer Record Fair

Mick collects vinyl records so a visit to the Hobart Record Fair was a must. Julia came along with us to the Republic Hotel in North Hobart where a number of traders had set up stalls. We arrived early (to get the best pick) but everyone else seemed to have the same idea. There were so many records you were almost guaranteed to find something worth buying. It looks like the fair is held twice each year - summer and winter.

We also took in some Hobart street art.

'I don't want my photo taken'

Eaglehawk Neck Pelagic

Mick has wanted to go on a pelagic trip for some time and we found a Facebook group dedicated to just that. I joined and kept an eye on the posts advertising upcoming trips, and bingo, there was to be one out of Eaglehawk Neck while we were in Hobart. We decided to make a weekend of it so booked a cottage nearby for two nights. A cold early morning start, and not the calmest of seas, but well worth it for the bird photographer.

Buller's Albatross

Northern Giant Petrel

White-capped Albatross

White-capped Albatross

White-chinned Petrel

Yellow-nosed Albatross

Kettering

Once again we headed to a location because of the chance for a particular bird sighting. (Lewin's Rail) Kettering is on the D'Entrecasteaux Channel and is where you catch the ferry to Bruny Island. We booked a couple of nights and spent the days exploring the area as well as looking for birds. We went for a drive along one of the back roads to Cygnet and Huonville (on the Huon River). When the bushfires were at their worst the road south from Huonville was closed, but had been reopened by the time we visited. We stopped for lunch in a pub but didn't travel further south, instead returning to Kettering along another back road via Woodbridge.

The view from our accommodation at Kettering.

Tasmanian Native Hen or Turbo Chook as the locals call them.

Spotted Pardalote

Dusky Woodswallows settle for the night.

Apparently a good spot for Lewin's Rail. Not today though.

 Bruny Island

After a couple of nights in Kettering we boarded the ferry to Bruny Island, this time staying in a cabin in the caravan park at Adventure Bay. The ferry is now operated by SeaLink and runs about every half hour. The cost for a standard vehicle is $38 return. There is no charge for passengers, and cheaper rates are available for early morning and mid-afternoon sailings. Once on Bruny we headed for the Bruny Island Cheese Company for cheese - of course - then we had hoped to do the Cape Queen Elizabeth walk but the small parking lot was full. We decided we would try again another day, but we were out of luck - the car park was full each time we went past. We also stopped at Truganini Lookout and the new carpark had plenty of parking spaces. We walked along the boardwalk to the beach then decided to tackle the stairs to the lookout. We must be fitter than when we first visited  in 2004 when we didn't make it all the way to the top. I guess we do a lot more walking these days. We stopped for picnic lunch at Adventure Bay before settling in to our cabin, with a lovely view of the bay.

The barge sails out of Kettering.

Beautiful views and beautiful weather.

The Neck lookout on Bruny Island.

Southern end of Adventure Bay.

Green Rosella

Getting shots of Swift Parrot really made the trip worthwhile.

I saw a family of Brown Quail around our cabin but could not get close enough for a decent shot.

On the other hand, this Dusky Robin was very obliging.

Hooded Plovers are a real favourite of mine.

Hoodies

Kelp Gull

Juvenile Kelp Gull

There's always a Pied Oystercatcher to photograph.

I wanted to keep it simple for this trip to Kettering and Bruny Island so I decided to concentrate only on two birds I hadn't seen before, Lewin's Rail and Swift Parrot. Anything else would be a bonus. No luck with the Lewin's but I found Swift Parrots in a flowering gum in front of the caravan park. There were probably about 15 - 20 that I saw and heard higher in gums along the beach and around Adventure Bay.

Blue-winged Parrot

Blue-winged Parrot

Juvenile White-fronted Chat

A bird guide who was staying next door told me about a road on North Bruny where he had seen Blue-winged Parrots. We checked it out and found the parrots with no trouble. They were very skittish and always stayed further away than I would have liked. All the same, it was an enjoyable birding session. Mick

A Quick Trip to Tasmania

11 May 2017

We have never been to Tassie in the cooler months so when we found ourselves with plane tickets we had to use (due to having to cancel a planned trip at Christmas) we decided to be brave and visit in May. Daughter Julia and her partner Josh moved from Devonport to Hobart earlier in the year, so we have a new base for our Tassie travels.

Flying into Hobart (or anywhere in Tasmania) from North Queensland is a bit of a drag - you have to take three different flights. In our case it was Townsville - Brisbane, Brisbane - Melbourne and Melbourne - Hobart so there was plenty of sitting around in airports. Flying in also presents the challenge of what not to pack. Of course there was the mountain of camera gear, our electronics as well as the winter warmies. We did manage to fit in our Ugg boots too.

Little Wattlebird in Julia's back yard.

Salamanca Markets - Hobart

13 May 2017

Despite our many trips to Tasmania (this is our seventh) we have only been to the famous Salamanca Markets once - on our first trip for the last market before Christmas 2004. That day, the crowds were unbelievable so we were hoping this time would be less crowded and make for a more pleasant morning out. Although it was cold (especially so for North Queenslanders) there was no rain in sight.

The dark, still water of Hobart's harbour shows the most vivid reflections.

Hobart is a beautiful city. In the background, kunyani/Mount Wellington is shrouded in cloud.

Our first stop was to have a look to see if the resident seal was home - and as luck would have it, it was, and happily posed for photos. The fur seal (perhaps Australian or maybe New Zealand) hangs around the docks feeding on scraps from the fish restaurant boats. Apparently it has been a regular visitor for some years.

Waiting for Sammy the Seal.

Sammy the seal waiting for a hand out.

Black-faced Cormorant in abstract reflection.

From there we walked around to Salamanca Place and the markets. The market is well known and on many tourists' "must do" list for the vast array of wares on sale. You can buy anything from local produce, leather goods, clothing, second hand goods, photographs, arts and crafts, fresh fruit and vegetables, and so much more. We spent a good bit of time browsing before heading back to the docks for a lunch of fish and chips at one of the many seafood cafes.

A small section of Salamanca markets.

Christie and Julia

Looking for a bargain.

There is so much delicious food to choose from.

Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens

14 May

Sunday was Mother's Day so Julia planned a picnic in her favourite park, the botanical gardens. She and Josh visit often as they both have an interest in plants and botany. Although there were clouds off in the far distance, the day was clear and crisp. We found a spot in the sun to enjoy our scrumptious picnic before setting off to explore the gardens. We even ventured into the Sub-Antarctic display which was more than a little challenging temperature wise. We also visited the veggie patch made famous by the ABC show "Gardening Australia". The gardens are well worth a visit with fabulous botanical displays, a cafe and magnificent river views. And it's free!

A picnic in the park.

Lots of people were enjoying the gardens.

Lots of Autumn colour was still visible though the leaves were piling up on the ground.

Coles Bay - Freycinet Peninsula

15 - 18 May

We caught the bus into the city on Monday morning and before collecting a hire car, and walked back down to Salamanca Place to have a look at the many interesting shops there. While the markets are great, the shops are also worth visiting. There are a number of art galleries, as well as local artisans, second hand books and many gift wares.

Once we had the car, we returned to Julia's to pack up then stopped to do some shopping before heading north to Coles Bay. We had rented a house for three nights hoping for some nice weather to visit Freycinet National Park. It was very late afternoon when we arrived so we settled in as the sun went down. Sunset was at 5:00pm!

View from the deck.

In the morning we went for a walk on the beach which was accessed via a track from the back gate of the house. It didn't look far, but by the time we had climbed over the dune, we had travelled a fair distance, and then we had to climb back up again. Later we headed into Coles Bay village for coffee and then over to the Freycinet National Park Visitor Centre to check the parks pass details, and collect walking track information.

Eastern Spinebill

An endemic Green Rosella enjoying an apple dinner.

A regular visitor to the place we stayed was this Scarlet Robin.

We decided to return to the National Park in the morning and tackle a couple of short walks. There are a number of fabulous walks, and some quite strenuous ones, but we opted to stick to the easy Great Oyster Bay walk from the visitor centre and the spectacular Cape Tourville walk along the clifftop to the lighthouse. If staying a few days and the weather is good, the famous Wineglass Bay Lookout is a must do, but there are very many stairs. The view from the lookout, however, makes it all worthwhile.

Coles Bay

Coles Bay looking towards The Hazards.

Great Oyster Bay is an appropriate place for this Australian Pied Oystercatcher.

We had tossed up the idea of going on the Wineglass Bay Cruise on Wednesday but had decided against it when we saw that the sky was cloudy, but when we woke to clear skies on Thursday morning we decided to see if we could get packed up quickly enough to make the 9:30 check in time. When it was clear we would be able to make it easily, I rang to book our seats. We were so glad we made this, somewhat last minute, decision as it was a magnificent day out.

On arrival at the wharf, check in at the office was quick and easy. Staff provide a couple of ginger sea-sickness tablets to each passenger just in case. We have used these before on very rough seas in the Southern Ocean off Bruny Island and they certainly do work for us. The forecast for this trip, though, was for fairly calm seas.

We set off on a calm sea.

Heading out through Coles Bay, the commentary provided was interesting and informative. Because of the time of year, there was a fairly small number of passengers so moving about the boat was easy. It also meant that getting to a spot on the railing at the front of the boat to take that great photo was also simple. Wildlife sightings were promised and we weren't disappointed. We saw seals, dolphins, white bellied sea eagle, albatross and other sea birds.

Buller's Albatross

Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross

Short-tailed Shearwater

The boat leaves the bay to travel north up the coast and into Wineglass Bay for a lunch stop. Lunch consisted of a bento box of fine tassie produce - cheese, dried fruit, smoked meats, smoked salmon, salad and chocolate. Plentiful and delicious. After lunch the boat returns to Coles Bay at about 2:00pm. It was a great day out with fine weather, calm seas, wildlife and spectacular scenery and very attentive staff. Thoroughly recommended!

Australian Fur Seal

Very young Fur Seal.

Bottle-nosed Dolphin swimming in front of the boat.

Bottle-nosed Dolphin swimming in front of the boat.

Wine Glass Bay for lunch.

We disembarked and hit the road north, bound for Bicheno.

Bicheno

18 - 20 May 2017

We've stayed at Bicheno a couple of times, but decided not to book ahead and just take our chances when we arrived. As luck would have it we were able to get two nights at a small apartment in a small complex right on the water, close to town. The place was well appointed and had the added bonus of the promise of penguin sightings on the property. We settled in and kept a lookout once the sun had set and, as we were told they would, a number of penguins wandered up and across the lawn, through the small paved patio and around behind the building. It's almost impossible to photograph them because you are prohibited from using flash, but it is such a treat to be able to see them at such close quarters.

Fishing boat, Bicheno.

In the morning we were surprised - although we shouldn't have been - to be awoken VERY early by the penguins calling before their return to sea. We are used to early morning birdsong, but this was a first for us. Later, we decided to walk over to Diamond Island where there is a penguin rookery. You can get there at low tide so we set off after breakfast to allow plenty of time without getting our feet wet. Unfortunately we were only able to spend a short time there as the rain that we had seen in the distance when we set off, started with just a drizzle but enough to have us heading back.

We found a very nice cafe for lunch but spent the rest of the day indoors as the weather wasn't conducive to outdoor activities. Once again we had a close look at the penguins as they came in for the night.

On Saturday morning we awoke to a very grey day and a forecast for heavy rain. We packed up and headed off before the rain started so we made a stop at the blowhole. The sea was quite rough so the blowhole was really blowing. Back on the road and home to Hobart and another visit to Salamanca Place, this time with Julia and Josh to catch the end of the markets and wander around the shops.

The very strange looking Musk Duck seen at Orielton Lagoon on the way back to Hobart.

Richmond

21 May 2017

Sunday was another nice looking day so we all jumped in the car for a drive out to Richmond. We'd driven through a couple of times years ago, but had never stopped to explore. We ended up spending most of the day there. This is a great place for antiques with a number of shops selling a huge variety of old wares and genuine antiques. There are also boutiques, gift shops, cafes and Julia's favourite, the shop that sells Christmas.

As well as the shops there is the Richmond Gaol and the famous Richmond Bridge. Nearby are a number of vineyards with cellar doors and a great cheese shop too. It's only about 1/2 hour drive from Hobart and a fantastic way to spend a day. And to top it off, the weather was beautiful.

Autumn colours.

Australian Wood Duck male.

Australian Wood Duck female.

Little Pied-cormorant.

The fattest Tasmanian Native Hen I've ever seen. They are obviously over feed by the well meaning public.

Hobart

22 May 2017

We headed off to a birdwatching spot we had visited before - Goulds Lagoon at Austins Ferry. A short drive up the highway and this lovely spot was where a Freckled duck had been reported a few days before so it was out with the camera and fingers crossed. Mick was rewarded with a good look at this and other ducks, but was not happy with the position of the sun, so suggested we might return later in the day.

Common but very beautiful, this male Chestnut Teal is not so shy.

Freckled Duck. Not one I get to see very often.

After lunch back at Julia's we donned the thermals for a drive up kunanyi/Mount Wellington. We were aware that the temperature at the summit would be significantly colder than in the city so we prepared accordingly. We were glad we did. Even though the car recorded a temperature of 19° as we drove through town, the Bureau of Meteorology records showed 9.2° at 2:00pm when we were there, with an apparent temperature of 2.2°. Never underestimate the potential to be cold in Tassie, even on a sunny day! The drive towards Fern Tree and up the mountain is, as expected, windy and steep in parts. Once you reach the summit, the view is magnificent. Interpretative signage allows visitors to orient themselves with key natural features including Derwent River, Bruny Island and D'Entrecasteaux Channel.

Looking towards Bruny Island.

Looking down on the city of Hobart.

On our way home we decided to revisit Goulds Lagoon in the hope of better light. Even though the sun didn't seem to have moved much, Mick walked right around the lagoon to get the shots he was wanting.

Australian Shelducks can be very hard to approach. These didn't stay long after they saw me.

Australian Shoveler.

Chestnut Teal yoga.

Tahune Airwalk

23 May - 26 May 2017

We set off from Hobart for the Tahune Airwalk at about 9.30am. According to the GPS the journey would take 1 3/4 hours - not the way we drive! We didn't arrive until 3:00pm - 5 1/2 hours later. The journey started normally - through the city and onto the Southern Outlet road towards Kingston when we made the snap decision to take the road to Margate instead of continuing on to Huonville. We stopped to have a look at a second-hand shop, and the op-shops in Margate itself, and had morning tea in a bakery as well. 

Back on the road and we decided to keep going the long way instead of back-tracking through Kingston. We had been as far as Kettering several times before, but had never been further south on the Channel Highway. We were really glad we did, despite the significantly extra kilometres. We drove through a number of small villages and settlements including the cutely named Flowerpot. We stopped several times to take photos of the beautiful scenery. We stopped in Cygnet to look at the shops, then on to Huonville for a stop at the supermarket and a (very late) picnic lunch by the river.

Lots of great scenery on our drive along the D'Entrecasteaux Channel.

The very picturesque Deep Bay.

As we neared our destination the sky grew very dark.

From there we made our way to the Tahune Airwalk where we had booked a two bedroom cabin for three nights. When we finally arrived we were very pleased to find the heaters on, making it toasty warm inside despite the dropping temperature outside. The Airwalk has one cabin and a lodge, as well as space for a few campervans. Entry into the Airwalk is included in the tariff if staying in the cabin or lodge which makes it good value. There is no television reception but there are movies available and there is also great WiFi, again contributing to the excellent value for money.

Ferns

In the forest every tree trunk is a vertical garden.

On Wednesday morning we awoke to grey skies and showers of rain so we resolved to be ready to head out as soon as the rain stopped. We made our first walk to the Airwalk itself - just one of a number of walks available. The Airwalk is between 20 and 30 metres above the forest floor, with the cantilever section being 50 metres above the river. The views are magnificent, even on a dull day.

Taking a selfie on the cantilever.

Tasmanian Scrubwren.

Birds were scarce and the light was terrible. This male Pink Robin was the highlight for me.

Later in the day we walked the Huon Pine Walk which takes you along the Huon River and the short walk down to the hang gliding spot. Both are easy walks but care should be taken in the wet.

A wobbly walk across the river.

View from one of the suspension bridges.

Flood debris lines the banks of the Huon River. The water is the colour of weak tea due to tannins.

On Thursday morning we tackled the longer Swinging Bridges Circuit. This loop crosses the Huon and Picton Rivers via suspension bridges, and takes about an hour. Not far along the track we started to notice different varieties of fungi so Mick was happy to photograph these stationary subjects. There were no birds around anyway. We were actually quite amazed at the number of different fungi we saw. Crossing the rivers was a bit of a challenge for those of us (well, me) who are afraid of heights. The bridge does swing as you walk across and it is best to wait until the person in front gets off to minimise the swing. This was possible as were just about the only ones there, but would be difficult in peak season.

Jelly Fungus

Mycena interrupta

Later in the day Mick ventured out on his own with camera and tripod to go fungus hunting. He was quite successful too. On Friday morning we also went fungus hunting before we set off for (Julia's) home. We took the short way home - straight up the highway to Hobart.

Hobart

26 - 29 May 2017

We spent our last few days in Tasmania, in and around Hobart. We drove back out towards Richmond to visit another cheesery on Friday afternoon. On Saturday, after an early morning visiting garage sales. we went to Salamanca Markets again. There is so much to see there it was worth another visit. On Sunday we drove out to New Norfolk but were disappointed to find that many of the interesting craft and antique shops were not open. We browsed through the ones that were open before having a nice pub lunch. On Monday we flew home. The day started out at 4° in Hobart and finished at 23° in Townsville.