Back on the Road - Port Macquarie to Devonport

Crowdy Bay

2 - 3 December

After three weeks waiting to have the camper trailer repaired we were relieved to finally get back on the road. Because of the delay we decided to head south to Tasmania and Christmas with daughter, Julia, rather than heading home and flying down as we had planned. With airline tickets cancelled and Spirit of Tasmania passage booked we left Port Macquarie for the short drive to Crowdy Bay National Park. We had booked a spot at Diamond Head Campground for an overnight stay before tackling the traffic going through Sydney.

As we expected the campground was almost full, with lots of families enjoying the sunshine and beautiful surrounds. We set off early in the morning for the drive through Sydney - one that we were not looking forward to at all.

Blayney

3 - 4 December

We drove south towards Sydney, making very good time on the motorway, but not enjoying the increasing traffic closer to Sydney. We stopped for a cuppa at a rest area, then lunch at Hawkesbury River Rest Area at Mooney Mooney. Refreshed, we drove on, turning west towards the Blue Mountains. Our aim was Bathurst and the GPS (otherwise known as the crazy woman) decided that the best way to get there was via Windsor and the Bells Line of Road. 

The drive through farmland and then mountains is quite picturesque in parts so we enjoyed this part of the drive. Because we made such good time we arrived in Bathurst earlier than intended so continued on the Blaney, where we stopped for another overnighter in the caravan park.

Yackandandah

4 - 5 December

Heading through Wagga and on to Albury we made the decision to continue on to a smaller town for our overnight stop. We chose Yackandandah and were pleased with what we found. A small and friendly town, in a lovely setting on the way towards the Victorian High Country, Yackandandah suited our needs very well.

I started having problems with my left knee at Crowdy Bay so was restricted to hobbling around slowly and painfully on this leg of the trip. As a result there are not many photographs. 

In the morning at Yackandandah I heard the telltale calls of Gang-gang Cockatoos in the surrounding bush. With an effort I managed to lug my heavy camera to the tree line to look for them. There were five or six cockatoos calling and flying between tall gum trees at the bottom of the park. Though too high and distant for any great shots, I was happy to get a record of these beautiful birds. Mick

Juvenile Gang-gang Cockatoo.

Male and Female Gang-gangs, possibly looking for a nest hollow.

Before heading off in the morning we stopped at the bakery for coffee and fresh bread. Next stop Bendigo.

Bendigo

5 - 7 December

We had found a caravan storage yard in Bendigo so made that our last stop before heading to Tassie. We checked into a caravan park for two nights, with the option of adding some more days if needed. We checked the weather forecasts, and the forecast for  Bass Strait, and decided to change our Spirit of Tasmania booking to the evening of 7 December. This gave us a sunny day and clear night before having to pack up the canvas for at least 6 weeks in storage. It also gave us a promised calm crossing. Perfect!

There were a number of Red-rumped Parrots around the park. This is a young male.

We spent the day in Bendigo, stocking up on a few things we needed, and having a look around the city. There are some beautiful buildings, thanks to the Victorian gold rushes.

On Wednesday morning we had plenty of time to get packed up. rearranging items to ensure we had what we needed for Tassie, and leaving behind what we didn't. After dropping off the trailer, we drove back into town to the Golden Dragon Museum. This museum tells the proud history of Bendigo's Chinese community. We could have spent much longer here had we not needed to get to Melbourne in time for the boat to Tassie.

Nanken Night Heron (breeding plumage). Patrolling the fish pond in the Chinese garden.

We set off after lunch and made our way into the centre of Melbourne - doing battle with the spaghetti loops of the multiple freeways and toll ways. We didn't really get lost this time, relying partly on the GPS and partly on instinct. Finding our way to Port Phillip Bay, we found parking and a cafe on the beach, where we had afternoon tea (OK - ice cream) before driving the short distance to Station Pier just on 5:00pm where we checked in for our Bass Strait crossing.

St Kilda beach. The bright and breezy weather had attracted scores of kite surfers and sailing boats.

Our ride, the Spirit of Tasmania in the distance.

The wind had dropped noticeably by the time we weighed anchor  for the 'Apple' Isle.

It was a calm and uneventful crossing... the best type.

Townsville to Sydney

Cape Hillsborough

7 - 8 October 2015

After several months at home meeting commitments to help organise a conference, we are finally back on the road, bound for Tasmania. This time we are heading down the coast (as we had intended to do in February before Cyclone Marcia thwarted our plans.)

We are picking up a new camper trailer in Sydney so have decided not to camp on the way. We will stay in cabins, pubs and motels along the way. Tonight’s stop is an old favourite, Cape Hillsborough.  We have a beachfront hut - right on the beach as you would expect. Our journey from home in Townsville was very familiar – op shops and fuel in Ayr (where diesel is 11cents a litre cheaper than in Townsville) then lunch at the Metropole Hotel in Proserpine.

On to Cape Hillsborough and a pleasant night on the beach - except for the incessant wind. We ventured out for a walk but the wind made it decidedly unpleasant – glad we weren’t camping.
 

This place is famous for its beach-going roos.

Volcanic rock looking like a site-specific wave sculpture.

A fairly early departure and a stop to walk along the Diversity Boardwalk. There weren’t many birds about, but it was a beautiful walk. There’s lots of interpretive signage to help visitors understand the significance of the land on which they walk.

A lace monitor was sunning itself on the track and was reluctant to move as we approached.

Blue Tiger. These were fluttering all through the bush as we walked.

Rockhampton

8 - 9  October 2015

After the lovely walk on the Diversity Boardwalk at Cape Hillsborough we headed back to the highway at Yakapari (yes it’s a real place), on through Mackay and then a stop in Sarina. The visitor information centre provides free, do it yourself, coffee and tea – and a lovely verandah to allow you to sit a while.

On the road again and lunch at Clairview – another beautiful beachfront, but the wind persisted so we didn’t linger long. The little park at the community centre is perfect for a lunch stop, and as a bonus the centre was open and selling the best ever jam drops. Wish we’d bought more!

On to Rockhampton and overnight at a caravan park just out of town. Nice enough but very noisy with the trains and trucks going right past all through the night.

Up very early to venture out along the Port Alma Road in search of the yellow chat. A local birder had provided Mick with very clear direction about where they could be found, but they weren’t there. Mick thinks they were sheltering from the wind. Looks like we’ll have to come this way again some time.

Nanango

9 - 10 October 2015

Morning tea at Bororen and a picnic lunch at Gin Gin, both with great parking for those towing. We turned off the Bruce Highway at Booyal and travelled the back road to the Isis Highway, then on to Biggenden and Ban Ban Springs, where we turned on to the Burnett Highway bound for Goomeri. We stopped at the visitor information centre and decided to keep going on to Nanango. Another stop at the visitor information centre and we found a quiet motel for the night.

Gilston / Nerang

10 - 11 October 2015

Saturday is market day! We left Nanango and made our way along the D’Aguilar Highway to Yarraman where we stumbled upon our first market for the day. From there it was on to Moore and a community op shop, then along the Brisbane Valley Highway to Toogoolawah and more markets, and finally lunch time in Esk – where there were more markets. From Esk we made our way towards the big city and turned off to the Gold Coast Hinterland.

Because this was a short day’s drive we drove up to Tamborine Mountain and went for a short walk at Witches Falls. We didn’t see any witches, but it was a beautiful walk, but with lots of steps.

From there we made our way down the mountain towards Nerang and our stop at a B&B for the night.

Common Bronzewing

The hosts have bird feeders out on the deck where breakfast is served. Crepes (the host is a French chef) and home-made jams, with the birds for company was a lovely way to start the day.

Galah.

Little Corella

Sulphur-crested Cockatoo

A Laughing Kookaburra catching some sun.

O'Reilly's ( Lamington National Park)

11 - 13 October 2015

Again, a short drive so we went back up to Tamborine – and made our first stop the markets. We headed over to another walk – but had to do battle with some serious traffic on the way. Seems everyone was out for a Sunday drive up the mountain.

Showground markets at Tamborine

Tamborine National Park – MacDonald Section provided us with a very pleasant and easy 1.5 km walk, away from the crowds. From there we found a nice park for a picnic lunch on the way back down the mountain to Canungra.

From Canungra it’s only 35 km to O’Reilly’s, but what a drive. It took nearly an hour – hairpin bends, one way sections, blind corners, give ways and steep climbs. You really do need to concentrate, but it is so worth the effort when you arrive at this most beautiful spot.

We checked into our room - with great views over the valley. Afternoon tea is served in the dining room, so of course we had to partake. We also ventured out onto the Booyang Walk and the Treetop walk. This takes you up into the canopy along an elevated suspended boardwalk - a bit scary when people walk quickly along making it swing.

The view from our balcony.

Eastern Whipbird

Male Regent Bowerbird

Satin Bowerbird at his bower.

Female or young male satin bowerbird.

Our package included breakfast, morning tea and afternoon tea. We opted for a casual dinner in the Rainforest Bar, where I was able to sample to local wine - a very nice Semillon Sauvignon Blanc from the O'Reilly's Vineyard.

Up early for the bird walk - but with a very large group this time. The mainly American tour group were absolutely fascinated by the Aussie birds, but it made for a very different walk. We peeled off after inspecting the brush turkey's mound, and went in for the best breakfast buffet ever. It's hard not to eat too much.

During the day we walked, ate lunch at the cafe, took lots of photos and generally enjoyed a beautiful day. Later in the afternoon we noticed storm clouds brewing in the distance and saw lightning and heard thunder. A check of the BoM (Bureau of Meteorology) weather radar revealed one of SE Qld's severe thunderstorms was headed our way. It was quite beautiful to see the lightning lighting up the sky. The worst occurred while we were up at the Rainforest Bar having another casual dinner. Most visitors sat glued to the spectacle. Fortunately the storm bypassed us and we only received a little rain up on the mountain.

We didn't get up for the early morning bird walk on Tuesday morning, opting instead to head down for breakfast early. We were rewarded with one of the window seats. During breakfast bird feeders are topped up and the local inhabitants gather round for a free feed. Quite a sight while having breakfast.

We fitted in another walk through the treetops before venturing back down the mountain and towards New South Wales.

Rose robin seen on the treetops walk.

Lennox Head

13 - 14 October 2015

We drove into New South Wales through the beautiful Numimbah Valley and via Murwillumbah. For us, this is much better than going through the Gold Coast - although we know many would disagree. We headed into Lennox Head and found a cabin in the caravan park across the road from the beach and adjacent to the lake - quite a nice spot. Our purpose for visiting was to catch up with a birdwatching friend we met on an earlier trip.

We arranged to visit Jo for morning tea and took the short drive out to Flat Rock at her suggestion. Mick was rewarded with a mixture of seabirds and waders. Despite the almost high tide he was able to get close enough for some photos.

Brahminy Kite with a fish stolen from a tern.

Red-necked stints land again after being spooked by the raiding kite.

It's exhausting migrating from the Siberian tundra and then being chased around by kites.

Lesser crested Terns

A Sanderling roosting with Red necked Stints.

Common Tern non breeding plumage

Little Terns

Ruddy Turnstone

Surfer at Flat Rock

This was a great little birding stop and a place I'd love to visit again for a longer stay. Thanks Jo for pointing it out! In my short photo sessions at Flat Rock I was able to see three new birds. They were not too flighty so I was able to get nice and close to some. Mick.

After morning tea with Jo we headed back to Flat Rock for some more photos, then on down the road for lunch at a park by the river in Ballina.

Golden Plovers and a Curlew Sandpiper at Lake Chickiba near Ballina.

Iluka

14 - 16 October 2015

We drove on to Iluka, once a small fishing village and still a fairly quiet place - at this time of year at least. Just before reaching the town we detoured to the Bundjalung National Park at Iluka Bluff for a look at the beach. We discovered there is a rainforest walk so we added that to the list of things to do.

We found a cabin in a caravan park by the river and settled in for two nights. In the morning we drove to the town end of the rainforest walk. It's only 2.5km and an estimated 1.5 hours each way, if you don't stop to take heaps of photos! We walked about 1.5km before turning around so we would be back in time for lunch.

Fruiting trees were full of figbirds, olive-backed orioles, Lewin's honeyeaters and fruit doves feeding noisily as we walked beneath them. Small yellow fruits plopped on the forest floor around us, dislodged by the foraging birds. Despite their number, any views of the birds were fleeting as the thick, dark foliage and glare conspired to hide them from us. A Rose-crowned Fruit dove flew briefly onto a branch in the open and I was able to get a shot.

Lower down, through the undergrowth and tangled vines, golden whistlers, wonga pigeons, eastern whip birds and brown gerygones could be heard. A rufous fantail hopped around not far from the track and I noticed it had been banded. Mick.

Rose-crowned Fruit dove

We went down to the small harbour and bought the freshest fish and chips we've had in a long time. The Fisherman's Co-op sells a range of seafood and the crumbed flathead was just delicious.

The perfect place to have fish & chips!

A walk out onto a break wall revealed that the banks of the Clarence River are guarded by an army of dragons. Every four or five metres, an Eastern Water-dragon eyed us cautiously from its rocky battlement as we passed. There were some fish and birds to look at also. Mick.

Eastern Water-dragon

Eastern Water-dragon

A Striated heron

Welcome swallows not long out of the nest.

 After lunch we walked for a short way along the river near the caravan park, then drove out to the surf beach for a quick look. We then went back to the harbour and walked along the foreshore walk from the pub to the playground.

On our return, hot and thirsty, we stopped for a refreshing and well-earned beer, with a lovely view. Up early for the long drive to Sydney, although we weren't sure we would get all the way - it's estimated as an 8 hour drive.


Pacific Palms (near Foster)

16 - 17 October 2015

We set off early, headed for Sydney. We hoped to be able to drive all the way, but were realistic enough to know that it probably wouldn't be possible. It was a very foggy morning, but was clear in Iluka by the time we left. A drove through the Clarence river valley, the fog reappeared. We stopped by the river at Ulmarra for photos.

Black duck in the fog.

Clarence River

We stopped for fuel in Grafton then drove on to Nambucca Heads for coffee. We detoured into Port Macquarie for lunch by the beach, then back to the highway to Taree. Just past Taree we left the highway to travel the Lakes Way, having made the decision to stay in the area for the night. We stopped in Forster where accommodation (that suited us) was scarce so we moved on, stopping at each caravan park along the way, only to find most also fully booked. We eventually found our way to Pacific Palms - a sleepy little corner nestled between Wallis Lake and the Pacific Ocean at Elizabeth Beach. A nice spot to spend the last night before hitting the "big smoke".

Tenterfield

28 February - 1 March 2015

We left O'Reilly's and drove (slowly) back down the mountain. The 30km takes up to an hour - depending on conditions. A short stop in Canungra for morning tea and a look at the markets (not much there) and then on through Beaudesert and Boonah and on to Stanthorpe where we stopped at the visitor centre and also picked up supplies. 

Queensland National Parks require that you book your campsite in advance so we checked the weather forecast and the rain radar, and rang to book. We then headed off towards Tenterfield. As we drove we could see a storm - presumably the very small one we had seen on the radar - and drove into torrential rain. We decided to go into Girraween NP anyway in the hope that the rain would have passed by the time we arrived but it wasn't to be. By the time we reached the park, the ground was muddy, with rivulets running through the campground. There was no way we could stay and camp so we moved on.

The rain persisted as we drove south, so we found a cabin at a nice caravan park in Tenterfield for the night. The rain kept up for a few hours, so we felt we had made the right decision.