Blue Mountains and Beyond

Blackheath

13 - 16 March 2019

We had left the camper trailer for repairs at the Cub factory in Sydney and spent the night with friends Anne and Stephen before heading up to the Blue Mountains. We weren't sure exactly how long it would be before we could collect the trailer, having been told it could be up to two weeks. We had decided to book accommodation until the end of the weekend and then see where to go after that. 

We left Sydney with plenty of time to kill before we reached Blackheath so we headed out through Windsor where we stopped for moring tea and a look around this historic town. Established in 1810 by Governor Lachlan Macquarie, Windsor is situated on the Hawkesbury River and is a great place to stop before heading up to the Blue Mountains via the scenic and quieter Bells Line of Road. 

The weather was cold and drizzly so we were glad to be able to check in early to our cabin in the caravan park at Blackheath, our home for the next three days. We hoped to be able to get out and see a few of the local sites while we were in the area.

We chose the famous Govettts Leap, with its magnificent view over the Grose Valley for our first morning excursion. The name "leap" comes from a old Scottish word meaning waterfall or cascade and has nothing to do with anyone jumping off the cliff, despire persistent tales suggesting just that. It was "discovered" and named by Government Surveyor William Govett in about 1831, although I think the local Darug and Gundungurra peoples would have a different story.

Did I mention the fabulous view from the lookout? Not on the morning of our visit! Shrouded in cloud the atmosphere was quite other-worldly. We did revisit later in the day and were treated to the promised views. We also walked the Bridal Veil Falls track which takes you down for a different view of Govetts Leap.

The caravan park in the fog.

Govetts Leap in the fog.

Banksia flower

Banksia flower

Govetts Leap with the weather lifting.

Creek crossing on the Bridal Veil Falls track.

Not many birds on this leg of the journey. New-holland Honeyeater.

A visit to the Three Sisters is also a must when staying in the Blue Mountains. This iconic destination located at Echo Point is visited by millions of visitors each year. There are walking paths which allow the crowds to spread out a bit, as well as a visitor centre. For the more energetic there is a walk that goes from Scenic World to Echo Point. Scenic World is the location of several attractions including the Scenic Railway which takes visitors down into the valley on the steepest railway in the world, built to service a coal mine.

The iconic view of the Three Sisters.

We left Blackheath in drizzling rain - again - and headed further west towards Lithgow, where we stopped for coffee and a look around.



Kandos

16 - 18 March 2019

Once again the weather seemed to be against us as we drove through Lithgow and on to Kandos. We chose Kandos for a couple of nights because of its proximity to Capertee Valley and its birdwatching opportunities. We had camped in the National Park, on our very first trip with the camper trailer, and were keen to return. A very detailed birding location map is available, which  includes GPS co-ordinates of spots where you are likely to find particular birds. 

There were clouds in the sky so, after a stop at the local markets in Rylestone we set off on the trail. The rain held off for a while, but unfortunately we had to bail out before lunch time. We were hopeful that the sky would clear, but it wasn't to be. I guess we'll just have to come back another time.

The good news, though, was that the camper trailer was  ready to be picked up on Monday morning so we planned an early start and steeled ourselves to battle the Sydney traffic. We must have been just at the tail end of peak hour as we made it to North Rocks in good time. 

We weren't sure how far we would be able to travel but were hopeful we would make it to around Taree.

Ganguddy (Dunn's Swamp) and Wombeyan Caves

Ganguddy - Dunn's Swamp

29 - 31 October 2015

We left Mudgee by 9.30am and drove back down the Castlereagh Highway toward Lithgow – turning off towards Rylestone, on the way to Ganguddy (Dunn’s Swamp). This is Wiradjuri country, home of the Dabee people and it is beautiful! We arrived at lunchtime after a short stop for coffee in Rylestone. This is a popular campsite but we found a spot a little way away from a big group of caravans and campers. The weather was beautiful so we ventured out for short walk. There are a  number of walks that leave from the camp and picnic grounds.

Nearly always the first creature encountered in a new camp.

Weather sculpted, sandstone outcrops and Scribbly gums give this landscape its unique character.

Another photographer pointed out a spot where he had photographed lyrebirds so Mick was keen to check that out. He was rewarded with a good look but only passable photos, but the big excitement on the way back to camp was the, so far, elusive rockwarbler. This is New South Wales’ only endemic species, and Mick has been chasing it for some time, and it was less than 50 metres from our camp!

A rockwarbler at last!

Superb Lyrebird.

We took the Campsite Rocks walk, where interpretive signage explains the history and geology of the area. The rock overhangs were used by the Dabee and hand stencils can still be seen. As in many parts of Australia, this area also has a shameful history of massacre of local aboriginals.

There was some firewood supplied so we collected some, anticipating a cold night – and we weren’t wrong. A camp fire before bed, and both quilts ensured we were snug and warm throughout the night. It was only 7 degrees at 7am so a slow start was in order.

Despite the cold overnight temperature, the morning was clear and bright and shaping up to be another beautiful day. We decided on the walk that took us to the Cudgegong Picnic spot and along the water. This was a very good choice. The well-made track was fairly level and made for a pleasant amble through the bush. Not many birds but lots of photos of the magnificent scenery.We spent some more time walking in the afternoon around the campground rocky outcrops.

Cudgegong picnic place.

Platypus Point

We decided to stay an extra night because this was such a beautiful spot, so paid an extra night’s registration on Friday morning. We headed out after morning tea on the Weir Walk. Again a beautiful walk, but much more challenging than the one we did the previous day. This one had a number of steep climbs and required a few rest stops. The morning was hot, which didn’t help. I called a stop when we reached the bottom of the stairs up to the lookout. Mick accepted the challenge and climbed to the top to take some photos. We headed back to camp rather than continuing on to the weir.

Australian Painted Lady

Butterflies and wildflowers were abundant along the walking tracks.

The view was spectacular, but the walk challenging

Later in the day our friendly neighbours – also Queenslanders - offered us the use of their kayak, so we each had a short paddle on the water. This is a popular pastime here.

Striated thornbill

Superb fairywren

White-throated gerygone

Cunningham's skink

This campground is reasonably priced at $6 per person per night (self-registration on arrival), and well set out with sites suitable for tents, caravans and trailers. There are toilets scattered around and lots of fire pits as well. Well done NSW Parks and Wildlife! I think Ganguddy is now on my list of must see places.

Wombeyan Caves Karst Conservation Park

31 October - 2 November 2015

We left Ganguddy and drove into Kandos for supplies. There is a big IGA supermarket as well as a butcher and op shop. We went back to the Castlereagh Highway, then turned off at Ilford for the alternative route to Bathurst. We stopped at Sofala, another old gold town, and had a coffee at the little museum in the back blocks. There were also a couple of coffee shops and a pub in the main street. From there we drove through Bathurst, towards Oberon. We finally spotted a picnic area for lunch at the Fish River. It had picnic tables and a toilet and was right on the river. From there we made our way to Oberon. Because the weather was looking very nasty, we thought we’d shout ourselves a cabin for the night, but the caravan park was fully booked. Perhaps people stay there on the weekend to visit Jenolan Caves, as the road from Oberon is better than the one from Lithgow. 

We drove on to Wombeyan Caves as this was where we intended to go next anyway. We settled into a powered site in the caravan park section and the rain started to fall. Lucky we arrived when we did. The temperature dropped significantly and the wind blew – but we remained warm and dry in the camper trailer. 

The morning dawned with clear skies, even though it was still quite cold. We spent some time getting the washing done (cheapest washer and drier ever - only $1 per load!), and by that time the temperature had risen and we set off on the Waterfall Walk. Again a challenging walk with the narrow path, very loose underfoot, skirting the high bank along the creek. There were plenty of up and down sections too. We only went as far as the first creek crossing - about 1 kilometre – then headed back to camp for lunch.

Satin bowerbird

Male Satin bowerbird

After lunch we went for a walk down to Victoria Arch. You can visit a number of the caves on a guided tour, or one as a self-guided tour, but all have many stairs. The Arch is easy to access and is still quite a sight – not unlike the Grand Arch at the entrance to Jenolan Caves. We spent some time there – with the temperature noticeably colder as you enter.

The very impressive Victoria Arch

On returning to camp, the evening was much warmer than the previous one, and the camp ground much more deserted – all the weekend visitors had left. Our peaceful night was not to last long as another fierce thunderstorm crashed around us, and without internet or phone access we were unable to get any details (such as the BoM weather radar or warnings). The worst of the storm didn’t last too long, but we did shelter for a while at the laundry as the lightning flashed nearby. Once the worst was over, we returned to the camper and settled down, only to be woken again in the early hours by more wind and rain. The camper withstood the onslaught, and was mostly dry by the time we came to pack up. We missed the next shower of rain by minutes only.