Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park - Twelve Mile Lagoon Campground

 9 - 11 August 2025

We felt our real Cape York adventure had begun when we left Endeavour Falls and headed towards Battlecamp Road that would take us into Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park. Along the way we stopped at Isabella Falls before entering the park. The unsealed road was in surprisingly good condition and we made it to Lakefield Ranger Station in time for lunch. From there we continued on to Twelve Mile Campground.

We generally choose campgrounds with toilets but wanted to stay somewhere different on this visit to Rinyirru so we booked a couple of nights at Twelve Mile. There are no facilities but the sites looked to be well spread out and we managed to book one right on the river. The track in is narrow and windy in parts and we had to stop at the turn-off for a group of five vehicles to leave before we could begin the drive to our campsite.

We had read lots of reviews and chose Site 5, and we are very glad we did. The site itself is huge and sits on the high bank of the Normanby River. Because there is quite a long track down to the site we weren't bothered by others driving by. Some of the sites are right on the road but ours was very private. We were able to position the camper trailer to get some sun and some shade. 

The view from our campsite

We spent a couple of very relaxing days watching the resident crocodile opposite our camp, and driving along the track to check out the other campsites - and to look for birds. We had collected firewood before we reached the camp so we were able to have a fire too.

We didn't need to hurry on our last morning as we were only going as far as Hann Crossing Campground so we took out time and headed out mid-morning.

Rinyirru National Park – Kalpowar Crossing Campground

11 – 12 August

We left Maryfarms and took the Battlecamp Road into Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park. We’d camped in the park before but not at Kalpowar Crossing. We stopped to collect firewood before we entered the national park and then at the old homestead where we had lunch. From there we continued on to the ranger station and had a look at the lagoon.

We made our way to our booked site at Kalpowar Crossing and set up camp. Kalpowar Crossing is a well laid our campground with very large sites suitable for all types of campers. There are toilets and access to the river – although swimming is definitely not permitted. There were a few people fishing while we were there.

You can walk down to the crossing - but beware of crocs

We had been having some issues with our solar set up and also discovered that our batteries hadn’t been charging properly while we drove. We were booked for two nights at Kalpowar but decided to just stay for one so we could go back to the main road and a powered site for a night. We had another three nights booked at Hann River Crossing, and had arranged to meet a birding friend there so didn’t want to have to cut that short due to lack of power.

We enjoyed a nice night at Kalpowar, and would probably stay there again, even though it was a mmuch busier campground than the stretch of isolated campsites at other spots within the national park.

 

Cape York - To The Tip and Back - Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park

Hann Crossing Campground - Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park

18 – 21 July 2016

We had booked our campsite at Rinyirru while we were in Seisia. The online booking system can be a pain, and you do need to work out when you will arrive, but we haven’t found this to be too much of a problem. We have been able to get good sites at the National Park campgrounds of our choice, throughout this trip. Our new travelling friends, Boyd and Ruth, were also booked in so we were looking forward to catching up with them.

A single Plumed Whistling-duck in the company of Wandering Whistling-ducks.

We drove from Musgrave into the national park, stopping briefly to look at a lagoon before we arrived at our Hann Crossing campsite, right on the North Kennedy River. We had some shade and plenty of room, although our site (number 11) was adjacent to another (number 12) which meant it wasn’t as private as some others.

Afternoon light. Some spuds in the camp oven for dinner.

The North Kennedy River in front of our camp.

Our humble home on the bank of the North Kennedy for three nights.

At night a full moon shone in the clear sky.

Drinks again.

Our three nights at Hann Crossing were magical. We drove out to the Nifold Plain in search of birds, and explored the area around the Hann Crossing campground. The campsites are spread out for several kilometres along both sides of the river. The side we were on looked to be the best with shady and private campsites. Those on the other side were more exposed to the road and lacked shade.

Peaceful Dove.

White-throated Gerygone in front of our camp.

Another Rainbow Bee-eater.

I'll call this a Zitting Cisticola because of the white tail tips and faint eyebrow.

Juvenile Star Finches. It's a shame I couldn't find any adults, they are spectacular.

Black-throated Finch dusting the edge of a lagoon.

Most of the lagoons are covered in waterlilies.

The lagoons are beautiful but danger could be lurking among the flowers.

Royal Spoonbills and Magpie Geese.

We spotted lots of wildlife from our camp including a goanna that sunned itself on the rocks, and a large crocodile that patrolled its section of the river each morning. We also spotted a snake swimming towards the other side of the river, another 4 snakes on the road while out driving, some lost cows, the usual wallabies, a goanna and a number of frogs who tried to take up residence in the camper trailer.

It turns out these are different goannas. This one has a tick behind its eye.

This one looks pretty fat.

This large croc patrolled it's territory each morning in front of our camp site.

Orange Plane Butterfly, also around the camp but not as dangerous as the croc.

Double-barred Finch, looking a bit disheveled.

We joined Boyd and Ruth for drinks in the evening for the two nights they were there and we made bread in the camp oven on the third day. There are no facilities at the campsites except for a hybrid toilet at the entrance to the campground, which was a long way away. We managed a decent wash with water drawn from the river using a bucket on a rope – staying well back in case of crocs.

It's nice to have a fire... making bread again.

Drinks at Ruth and Boyd's camp.

On our final morning we headed back out to the road towards the southern section of the park. We stopped at Pink Lily Lagoon and Catfish Waterhole – both lovely spots. Passing the New Laura Ranger Base, we headed towards Old Laura Homestead and Battlecamp Road. Last time Mick drove this road (over 20 years ago) it was a rough track, but it is much improved although yet to be completely sealed. Because of recent rains it was quite slippery in parts.

Taken at Pink Lily Lagoon.

The waterlily seeds are edible and taste similar to green peas.

They go through a range of colours as they dry out.

Nankeen Night-heron at Catfish Waterhole.

Mick had read about a likely birding spot (funny thing, that!) so we turned off onto McIvor Road, a few kilometres before Isabella Falls. We drove along about 24 kilometres before stopping at McIvor River. It was a very beautiful spot and we had lunch before searching for birds. Not much luck on the avian front, but a very pleasant spot to have a break from the road.

At McIvor River.

From there we backtracked back to Battlecamp Road, and on to Cooktown.