Kununurra

 23 – 30 July 2022

We left Keep River and headed towards the Western Australian border. Because of time zones we knew we would gain 1 ½ hours so we took our time leaving the national park and arrived at the border crossing at about 10:00am WA time, or 11:30am NT time. We decided to have an early lunch in the rest area at the border before proceeding through the checkpoint.

We had eaten the last of the fruit at the Keep River National Park, and used the last of our honey there also. We'd cooked and eaten all the fresh vegetables we had also. We had familiarised ourselves with the biosecurity rules and had a small bag of food scraps ready to hand over. The border check was quick and easy and we were on our way to Kununurra.

We had 7 days booked with stays in 2 different caravan parks. We chose well as they couldn’t have been more different even though they were only a few kilometres apart. The first, Kimberleyland, is right on the man-made lake and has a beautiful view to the water from many sites – not ours unfortunately. It was only a short walk down to the water where there were lots of birds and even a resident freshwater crocodile which could be seen sunning itself on the grassy bank most mornings and afternoons. We sat down by the water on a couple of afternoons and enjoyed the view.

Across the road from the caravan park is the Celebrity Tree Park – another beautiful grassy area with a walking track skirting the water and through the park. The main feature is the large number of trees that have been planted over many years by a variety of celebrities from royalty, to engineers to musicians. Adjacent to each tree  a plaque bears information about the celebrity who planted it. We spent quite a bit of time in the park because there were also lots of birds to photograph there.

We visited the National Parks office and purchased a year pass as we knew we would be visiting quite a few national parks while in Western Australia. A visit to the Visitor Information Centre was also on the agenda, and we picked up a few brochures for places we expected to visit. We also scoped out some possible birdy spots on the outskirts of town.

We had four nights at Kimberleyland then moved across town to Hidden Valley, and what a contrast it was. This caravan park is adjacent to Mirrima National Park and across the road from Kelly’s Knob so it has the most awesome views of the rock formations. There is an access track from the back of the caravan park into the national park so we had a quick look on our first morning there but didn’t go far.

We found a good birdy spot out along the road from the caravan park, near one of the irrigation channels so we spent a couple of afternoons there. We also went for a drive to the Sandalwood Factory where a large variety of sandalwood based products are sold, and also the Hoochery, a distillery which also has a coffee shop. On the way back home we drove into Mirrima National Park and went for one of the short walks that start from the carpark. There are a number of walks varying in length and difficulty – we chose the shortest and easiest, Banan derdbe-gerring gooleng theniyinhang which, a 500m Class 1 loop which was mostly along boardwalk and well-made paths.

We chatted to our neighbours one morning and they suggested entering the park from a different track which would make a shorter walk so we took their advice and went that way. The track was easy to follow but it did take us to a rock face that we would have had to scramble up, without knowing what was on the other side. I really didn’t feel comfortable attempting it so we backtracked and cut across on another track that joined up to the main one from the caravan park. We continued and met up with Gerliwany-gerring Banan walk, which continues on to the carpark. We didn’t go all the way to the carpark, instead taking a side track to Demboong Banan (Gap Trail). When we reached the end of the track, where there were views of Kununurra through a gap in the rocks, we realised we were at the top of the rocks we had approached from the other direction. The hiking app I was using confirmed this so we decided we would scramble down. We made our way down very carefully, and returned to the caravan park via the track we had started out on. The whole loop was just over 2 kilometres and was a great walk. The views of the rock formations, which are known as the “Mini Bungles” was fabulous.

We had three nights at Hidden Valley and once we had restocked, fuelled up and repacked we were ready to head to Purnululu National Park for the next 6 nights.

Keep River National Park - Goorrandalng Campground

 20 - 23 July 2022

We booked three nights at Keep River National Park as our final stop in the Northern Territory. We didn't know much about the park but the information we read suggested stunning views and some nice walks. After a nice lunch stop at Saddle Creek we continued west almost as far as the WA border before turning off into Keep River.

Not far from the park entrance there is a water point - a tap where you can obtain fresh water that may or may not be suitable for drinking. Someone had placed a dish underneath the tap and some birds were taking advantage and having a drink and a dip. We parked up in the shade of a tree and Mick spent some time taking photos. From there we continued in to Goorrandalng Campground. The road was in fair condition with a few dry creek crossings and lots of corrugations on the 15km drive.

We arrived at the campground and set up on the site we had booked. There wasn't a whole lot of shade but there was plenty of space to set up the solar panels to catch the sun for most of the day. We went for a short walk to look at the rock formation in the centre of the campground and Mick was surprised to see a White-quilled Rock Pigeon. Chatting to some other campers, we discovered they are quite abundant in this area so there would be ample opportunity to get some photos.

We decided on a fairly early start in the morning for the Goorrandalng Walk - a 2km, grade three loop walk. We took way longer than the estimated 1 hour as we kept stopping to admire and photograph the amazing views, as well as the rock pigeons that seemed to be everywhere. Despite not having been on any serious walks for about a month, we found this one to be relatively easy.

Mick spent a morning session the next day at the water point again and as the day warmed up we discovered that the place to be was in the shade of the rocks in the middle of the campground. The temperature there was significantly cooler than at our campsite across the road. While there we chatted to some other campers and ended up joining them for drinks by a campfire later in the evening.

The following day, Mick revisited the water point late in the afternoon, and we again joined the neighbours and some other campers for drinks around the campfire. It was lovely to chat to some different people who were all enjoying the surroundings as much as we were, and to share ideas on other places to visit.

In the morning we packed up and again stopped at the water point for a while before driving on to the Ranger Station for morning tea. There is a small dam at the back but not the abundant birdlife we had expected. From there we returned to the highway, bound for Western Australia.

Timber Creek

 18 - 20 July 2022

We seem to have revisited a number of places we'd already been to on this trip and previous journeys and Timber Creek was one of them. We stopped there for a night when we travelled Australia in 1991 so we thought a return was in order.

It was only just over an hour from Sullivan's Creek in Judbarra National Park so we hung around the campground chatting and sharing stories before having morning tea, then setting off for Timber Creek. We were set up at the hotel caravan park in time for lunch. We drive down to Hickey's Beach in the late afternoon to look for birds. Not much luck in that department, but a nice spot to spend and hour or more, despite the lack of promised beach.

In the morning we went for a drive to two scenic lookouts just out of town. The first is home to a monument to the "Nackeroos", a local army unit which assisted in the defence of the North during World War ll. As with many such units, little is known by the general population so it was interesting to learn the story of the North Australian Observation Unit.

The second lookout is a little way past the first and offers great views over the township of Timber Creek and out the the Victoria River. The road up to the escarpment is narrow and windy in parts but well worth the short drive.

Freshwater crocodiles inhabit the creek at the back of the caravan park and are fed several times each week. We were there for the Tuesday feeding, which also included feeding the resident black and whistling kites. We don't remember any such entertainment last time we were there when we made our own by taking a bucket of ice and some beers down to the creek. Such simple pleasures are well remembered. 

On the way out of Timber Creek we stopped to walk on the Bradshaw Bridge. This robust structure provides a link from the Victoria Highway to the Bradshaw Field Training Area. You can walk across the bridge but cannot drive across or enter the military area. 

From there we continued west with a lunch stop at a rest area/free camp at Saddle Creek. There were lots of caravans set up there. Although the rest area itself is not very well kept the view is fabulous. After lunch and a chat with some fellow travellers we drove on to Keep River National Park.

Judbarra/Gregory National Park - Sullivan (Creek) Campground

 15 - 18 July 2022

At 13 000 square kilometres Judbarra National Park can be accessed from a number of points. We chose the most accessible and closest to the Victoria Highway. Sullivan Campground does not have marked campsites but must still be booked online before arrival. There are picnic tables, firepits with barbecue plates and a drop toilet. There is a small waterhole a short walk from the campround. 

We chose a spot on the loop road which allowed access to a picnic table and also provided some shade. We were able to get the solar panels into good sunlight each morning. Although it is just off the highway and used by many as a rest area, we found it to be a peaceful and relaxing spot to spend a quiet few days. There were lots of birds around the campground and waterhole and Mick happily chatted to fellow birders while attempting to take photos.

The weather had improved and we enjoyed warm days and cool nights without the wind we had experienced in Katherine. Once again, we were able to keep ourselves busy for a few days without really doing much. The next stop for us was to be Timber Creek.

Katherine

 8 - 15 July 2022

We booked another week in Katherine for a number of reasons. We are still in no hurry as we didn't want to be in Broome until mid-September. Katherine is a good sized town and the caravan park we stayed in on our way north is great - shady and well maintained. We were going to spend some time with friends we had met on a Cape York trip in 2016 and were very much looking forward to catching up on travel stories with them. Unfortunately a serious car accident in Queensland resulted in their caravan being written off and them having to return to their home in Victoria. We were devestated for them, but glad to hear they were unhurt and the car undamaged. We hope to be able to meet them somewhere along the track one day.

In the end Katherine became very much a home and chores week. We took the car in for a service and I also needed to visit a GP and dentist. We also became eligible for a fourth Covid vaccination/ booster so we did that as well. We also studied the map and calendar and pencilled in a number of stops on the Western Australian leg of the trip. We even went ahead and booked in some more national parks as these were filling up fast. We kept busy for the whole week even though we didn't get out and about much. Sometimes it's nice just to hang out and get a few things done. 

After a nice week in Katherine it was time to finally head west and set off for Judbarra/Gregory National Park for a few days. We went for one last walk along the river before we left.

Nitmiluk National Park - Leilyn (Edith Falls) Campground

 6 -8 July 2022

We left Pine Creek and stopped at a couple of spots along the way where we might find some birds to photograph. One was just off the highway but we couldn't figure out how to get down to the river and the other was on the road into Leilyn. Mick had been to a spot that we think is known as Dead Woman Waterhole before, so he knew we could get in with the camper trailer.

This waterhole is only a little way in from the main road, with a loop track at the end. There was water and a few birds so we stayed a while, and finished up with morning tea before setting off for the campground. 

As we had expected, it was full with many families enjoying the natural surrounds. Our spot was, once again, not ideal, but was better than the one we'd had previously. The layout and orientation of many of the campsites makes them difficult to get into. The sizes on the map may be accurate but the length given for some is actually the width. Hopefully someone in NT National Parks will fix this as it makes it a bit tricky when booking using the new online system.

Although the sun was shining, there was a cold wind blowing so swimming was not on our agenda this visit. We did walk down to the pool and there were some brave souls in the water. We opted for an ice cream from the cafe instead. 

We rose early the next morning to go back to the waterhole. Mick wanted me there as spotter as he had heard dingoes during the night and was a bit worried about sitting there all alone in his throw-over hide. We spent a good while there then drove back down to the free camp near the highway where he had previously seen Gouldian Finches. We didn't stop this time as it was absolutely packed with caravans and other campers. Back at our camp we relaxed away the rest of the day, with Mick doing some more photo editing. 

We had a leisurely final morning, with Mick spending some time with the camera in the campground and day use area before having morning tea once we were packed up. We then set off for Katherine where we were to spend the next week.

Pine Creek

 4 - 6 July 2022

We decided to revisit Pine Creek for another session with the Hooded Parrots, and because it is a nice spot. It was quite busy on our last stay and even busier this time. We had to settle for an unpowered site and we found a nice one in the shade, which actually provided a good bit of sun in just the right place for the solar.

The cold nights looked like they would continue for at least another week, although the days were beautful - mid-twenties and sunny. Mick went out with the camera early and we pottered around at camp during the day. We also went down to have a look at the nearby Miners' Park with its extensive display of old mining equipment and interesting interpretative displays.

We had dinner at the Lazy Lizard again and as luck would have it, it was pizza night. We shared a pizza which was delicious. The pub and attached caravan park have built a good reputation and seem to be working hard to keep it. Amenities are well maintained, grounds are well kept and staff are friendly. 

We left Pine Creek to travel back to Nitmiluk National Park to stay again at Leliyn (Edith Falls). As always we had booked ahead and being school holidays, we knew it would be crowded.

Kakadu National Park - Djaradjin Campground

2 - 4 July 2022

After a lunch stop at the Mary River Ranger Station we drove on to Djaradjin Campground. There are no bookings for Kakadu campgrounds so we hoped we would get in. Being school holidays we expected it to be crowded but when we arrived at about 2:30pm, there was only 3 other camps set up.

Once we were settled we headed to Burrunguy (Nourlangie Rock) to have another look for the Banded Fruit-Dove along the Barrk Sandstone Walk. This is a difficult and challenging walk and we only walked the first 250 metres to the spot where I'd seen the fruit-dove a few weeks before. Unfortunately we didn't even hear them calling this time.

Back at camp, the campground had filled up and we were surrounded by campervans, tents and a couple of caravans. There was even a school group at one end of the campground. The ranger came around to collect our fees which must be paid in cash. He stopped to chat and provided some information about where to find particular birds. Mick already knew most spots, but it was good to have it confirmed.

We were a bit wary about the possibility of the mosquitoes being bad due to the proximity to wetlands and billabongs but apart from a small number just on dusk and again at sunrise, they were not much of a problem.

After getting up before the sun we drove to Nawurandja Lookout hoping for rock pigeons - not this time - then down to Anbangbang Billabong where Mick spent some time trying to photograph the resident Rainbow Bee-eaters.

We spent the afternoon enjoying the quiet at camp and then drove down the road for another session looking for birds. We returned to camp and lit a fire even though it wasn't that cold, but we did cook on it. It seems for some people that if you have a fire pit in the camp, you should light a fire, no matter what the temperature.

We set off in the morning with a stop at the Mary River Ranger Station for morning tea before making our way back to Pine Creek for a couple of nights.

Adelaide River

 1- 2 July 2022

After leaving Litchfield and stopping for coffee in Batchelor we set off for Adelaide River. We decided to stop there simply because we had never stayed there before. We arrived early - just before lunch - and set up at the showgrounds caravan park. A little way out of town, and far enough from the highway to be quiet. Adelaide River, the township, is not to be confused with  Adelaide River, the river which is home of the various famous jumping crocodile tours. The township is on the river whereas the crocodile tours are on the way into Kakadu.

The weather had not improved much, it was no longer raining, but the wind continued and it was very cold. The temperature didn't go above 18° all day. It was quite funny to see everyone in jumpers and jackets. This was definitely not what you would expect in the Top End, even in winter.

We spent the afternoon catching up on photo editing and online tasks, and had dinner at the on-site bistro. The bar and bistro are run by the Adelaide River Show Society and the menu is typical pub grub, without the inflated prices seen in some places. It was Territory Day, the one day of the year when the lighting of fireworks by citizens is legal, and even encouraged, so of course some iof the locals set off some nice displays later in the evening.

In the morning we packed up and drove back in to the township to fuel up and also buy some fish from the trader at the small market operating in the park. It was still really cold - only 16° - but the forecast looked promising. We were headed back to Kakadu with the promise of high 20s and sunshine!

Along the way we made a short stop in Pine Creek which was crowded with people taking part in the annual Gold Rush Festival. Back into Kakadu we stopped for lunch at the Mary River Ranger Station. This facility seems to be unmanned but does provide clean toilets, information displays and a picnic area.

From Mary River we continued on past Cooinda to one of the National Park campsites not far from Burrunguy - Djaradjin.

Litchfield National Park - Florence Falls Old 4WD Campground

 28 June - 1 July 2022

We left Darwin and made our way back to Litchfield National Park to stay at Florence Falls again. We had booked three more nights in this beautiful spot. Along the way we stopped in Batchelor for a picnic lunch and then made our way to our campsite. 

The weather wasn't anywhere near as hot as on our last visit so we just went down to the plunge pool for a walk rather than a swim. Despite the cooler weather there were still heaps of people swimming there. 

On Wednesday morning the weather had changed and was cooler again, and very overcast. We hoped the skies would clear but it wasn't to be. We headed out in the afternoon to Greenant Creek and the Tjaetaba Falls walk. This 2.7km walk is relatively easy at the start but there are some steep and rocky sections as the track leaves the edge of the creek and climbs to the top of the falls. There is a lovely pool for swimming at the top of the waterfall. Lots were, but we didn't.

From Greenant Creek we went to Tollmer Falls Lookout. The lookout provides a great view of this spectacular waterfall. There is also a short walk along the creek from the viewing platform back to the carpark.

The weather had started to turn quite nasty - a drop in temperature, rain overnight and overcast skies. We decided to head in to Bachelor to get online and carry out some necessary tasks. We hoped that the forecast would show the weather getting better but it looked like it would be getting worse.

Back at camp and we had late afternoon drizzle which turned into rain through most of the night and early morning. Fortunately it had eased to just a slight spit by the time we had to pack up and move on. We did enjoy our relaxed stay even though the weather was against us.