Howard Springs

 23 - 28 June 2022

We drove the short distance from Darwin to Howard Springs where we would spend the next 5 nights. We had stayed there on our way in to Darwin at the start of the month and decided it would be a great spot to spend some more time and have a bit of a rest after some very busy weeks. 

Our plan was to catch up on housekeeping, shopping and photo editing, with maybe a few relaxed sessions at some birdy spots. We spent the first couple of days mostly around the camp but ventured out on Saturday morning to visit the nearby Fred's Pass Market. This small rural market has a number of food vans selling delicious smelling goodies, as well as crafts, plants and some produce.  

On Sunday morning we went down to revisit the Howard Springs Nature Park. We went on the short walk where Mick took a few photos before returning home. There had been reports of a rare bird sighting near the beach in Nightcliff so we headed there on Sunday evening. Mick chatted to some local birders who had seen it on previous days, but it failed to put in an appearance while we were there.

We enjoyed another lovely stay at Howard Springs and revisited the Nature Park when we finally left on Tuesday morning. There were lots of people around and we watched the resident barramundi take the fish a man and his daughter were throwing in for them. From there we continued south along the Stuart Highway to return to Litchfield National Park.

Darwin - Lee Point

 21 - 23 June 2022

We wanted to go back into Darwin because there were still some bird photography opportunites to be had - and because Lee Point was the focus for Gouldian Finches, we headed to the caravan park there. After a bit of an effort to find a suitable site, we finally settled on one that had a nice tree close by, but turned out to have no shade at all due to the orientation of the site. We had to keep chasing the shade provided by nearby caravans and buildings. We figured we could manage as we were only staying for two nights.

Mick spent each evening and morning at the Gouldian Finch spot and also at the boat ramp. He wasn't entirely happy with his photos of the finches - local interest in the birds had increased hugely due to media interest meaning many more people, and fewer opportunities for a good photo. He did have more luck with the rail he was after at the boat ramp.

Because we were only going as far as Howard Springs we decided we could fit in a visit to East Point and the Mangrove Boardwalk. We had a coffee by the lake before setting off on the walk. The tide was coming in and we spent quite a long time at the viewing platform at the end of the boardwalk. On our return we decided on a picnic lunch before heading off so we drove a little way along the road and found a spot by the beach. There are lots of great spots at East Point to stop and enjoy the view of the city and beach, as well as the lovely Lake Alexander. 

Back on the road and less than an hour and we were back in Howard Springs where we would spend 5 nights.

Corroboree Park

 19 - 21 June 2022

We left Jabiru, and made a couple of stops along the way to our next stop - two nights at the campground at Corroborree Park Tavern. We had chosen to go there so that we would have easy access to Fogg Dam. It's still about 35km away, but closer than Howard Springs. We found a nice shady spot and discussed our options.

We decided on an afternoon session, stopping first at Adelaide River to chase the Golden Mangrove Whistler. We arrived at Fogg Dam about an hour before sunset and again were amazed at the variety of birdlife. We even saw a Jabiru with a file snake in its beak - just caught. We spent time until the sun set on the dam wall watching and photographing the birds. After a very successful afternoon we had dinner in the tavern when we returned home.

Because it's such a great place, we returned to Fogg Dam for sunrise the next morning - and again it was a very successful outing. It was only spoiled when we set off on the Woodland to Waterlily Walk and were eaten alive by mosquitoes. They were heaps worse than the last time we went on the walk a few weeks previously. We retreated to the campground, and relaxed in the shade for the rest of the afternoon.

We just had to make one last visit to Fogg Dam before heading in to Darwin again so we rose early, packed up the camper trailer and were at the dam just after sunrise. We spent another 4 hours there and had an early lunch before driving in to Darwin and out to Lee Point for a couple of nights.

Kakadu National Park - Jabiru

 15 – 19 June 2022

When we arrived at Jabiru, it was still a bit too early to check in to the caravan park, and almost lunchtime, so we headed down to the lake for a picnic at the very nice picnic area. After lunch we checked in to the caravan park and hit the pool as soon as we were set up. Later in the afternoon we drove down to the Bowali Visitor Centre so Mick could look for a particular bird that might have been there – it wasn’t.

Yet again we were up early, this time so we could get to Ubirr and start the walk before the day became too hot. Ubirr has a number of art sites along the walk as well as a lookout with views over the floodplain. The walk is easy and even the lookout section is only moderately steep and just a few hundred metres. The rock art is a fascinating insight into Australia's past with one well-known piece clearly showing the extinct Thylocene - Tasmanian Tiger. 

After our walk we made coffee before driving to Bardedjilidji Walk. This walk is about 2.5km and meanders through sandstone outliers and along the now dry creek and also the river. From there we went down to Cahill’s Crossing – famous for the croc watching opportunities. We arrived about an hour before high tide and watched as the water rushed in over the road – and a few crocs started to gather to catch a feed. At this time of year there were only a small number visible, but later in the dry they gather in large number. We’ve seen videos and it is quite a sight. We stayed until the top of the tide, amazed at people taking photos on the road at the edge of the water, oblivious to the man-eaters they couldn’t see under the water. We were happy with the elevated vantage point we had chosen.

On Friday we decided we had been up early too many times in the last few weeks so we had a day at “home” catching up on housekeeping and editing photos, and swimming too of course. We made one last trek out to Nawurlandja Lookout at the end of the day and this time Mick was rewarded with a good sighting and photos of the Chestnut-Quilled Rock pigeon. We expected to find them on the rocks near the lookout and had almost given up when we heard their distinctive call – like a frog – and saw a pair wandering about nearby.

Friday was Mick's birthday so he chose a visit to another wetland as his birthday treat! Mamukala Wetland has the biggest bird hide we have ever seen, but there weren't many birds around, and the sun was in the wrong position to take advantage of the hide. There is also a short walk which did prove to be quite productive with a number of finches and other birds to be found. We returned to Jabiru and went down to the Marrawuddi Art Centre for a look around and a coffee.  

Late in the afternoon we returned to Nourlangie Rock in search of Banded Fruit Dove. Mick had information suggesting that they might be found about 500m along the Barrk Track. This track is a 12 kilometre loop that circles Nourlagie Rock and is rated difficult. We hoped the start would be relatively easy - but wasn't. The track was quite overgrown, steep and rocky in parts. I bailed out after about 250 metres and found a rock to sit on while Mick continued on. Unfortunately he didn't find the birds - but I did. I saw one fly amd then heard it calling from nearby. I spotted it on a branch across a gully. I was able to watch it for a while to be certain of the identification. No photo, but a positive ID I could put on my small list of bird sightings.

We were up early on our final day so we could revisit Mamukala Wetlands, before calling in to the boat ramp at South Alligator River for morning tea. The tide was out and we could see a large crocodile sunning itself on the far bank. We stopped again at the Mary River Day Use Area for a picnic lunch before continuing on to Corroborree Park Tavern for the next two nights.

 

Kakadu National Park – Cooinda

 12 – 15 June 2022

We had booked three nights at Cooinda so we could go on the early morning cruise on the billabong. Cooinda is another of the spots we stayed at on our round Australia trip in 1991 and we had always wanted to return. After settling in and locating the pool, we stumbled across happy hour in the bar. We decided it would be a lovely way to finish quite a long day.

We seemed to be making a habit of early mornings and on our first one in Kakadu we headed for Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) Rock just as the sun was starting to rise. Burrungkuy is the name for the upper section where rock art can be seen, and Anbanbang is the lower section and surrounding area. We weren’t the first ones there, a fellow birder Mick had made friends with in Darwin was there already. The short loop walk takes in a number of rock shelters and art sites. The art sites are evidence of continued occupation of the land by the Bininj and Mungguy people. There was a not too strenuous climb to the lookout with magnificent views and then an easy walk back to the start along a paved pathway.

After leaving Nourlangie Rock we turned off to visit Anbangbang Billabong, just a few kilometres down the road. There is a walk all the way around the billabong but we walked about half way then turned back because of the position of the sun.

Back home for lunch and a swim, then we drove to the famous Yellow Water (Ngurrungurrudja) Wetlands for a walk along the boardwalk where we saw a couple of crocodiles and lots of birds. We also drove down to Mardukal Billabong for another short walk. There is a large campground at Mardukal and a couple of walks. The one to the billabong is 500m each way, and there is a nice picnic spot by the water.

We were up even earlier the next day to go on the sunrise Yellow Water Cruise. We were picked up at the bus stop just outside the campground and bussed the short distance to the billabong for a two hour tour. Our tour guide, Adam, was knowledgable and engaging as well as being quite the comedian. We watched the sunrise and set off to explore the billabong and floodplain. There were lots of birds, as well as crocodiles, and we even saw feral pigs and buffalo.

We relaxed the day away – a swim and a then reading in the shade by the pool. Later in the afternoon we visited the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre then we drove back out towards Nourlangie Rock to the Nawurlandja Lookout Walk. This walk is fairly short with a moderately steep 300 metre climb up over rock. The view was magnificent but there was so much smoke in the air from seasonal burning.

We returned home and had an early birthday dinner for Mick at the bistro. We shared a very nice pizza that was just the right size for two people. In the morning Mick returned to Yellow Waters Billabong for a short while, before we finished packing up and moving on to Jabiru. As we needed to kill some time, we stopped in again at Nourlangie Rock and completed the walk again – still looking for some elusive birds. Because it was later in the morning when we arrived, there were lots more people there.

We continued on to Jabiru, where we would spend the next 4 nights.

Darwin

 5 - 12 June 2022

We arrived at the caravan park in Darwin and were able to check-in early, as arranged. Our site had an esnuite and backed on to the fence bordering some bushland. There wasn't much shade so we knew we would be in for some uncomfortable afternoons. We'd just have to make use of the pool again. Late in the afternoon we drove down to Holmes Jungle, a spot suggested by a birdwatching friend. That turned out to be a bit of an experience as it seems it is now used as a gay hook-up spot. Mick was definitely not going there on his own.

After checking out the swamp, we called in to the shopping centre for a few things before trying to find the Mangrove Boardwalk in the Casuarina Coastal Reserve - without success. We then headed out to Lee Point, another birdwatching spot where Gouldian Finches had been seen. Yes, they were there but Mick hadn't taken his camera on the long walk to the spot. 

After an afternoon of running around we finished the evening with dinner and sunset at the famous Mindil Beach Markets. There were so many people there, but it really is something fun to do when in Darwin. The markets run Sundays and Thursdays during the dry season. There are heaps of food and drink stalls to choose from as well as local arts and crafts. There is even entertainment as well as the sunset view from the beach.

The next morning we headed down to Knuckey Lagoon, again for the birds and then in to pick up some camping gear that we needed. We seem to have broken a few things in the last couple of weeks. We went back out to Lee Point to find the boat ramp for birding.

On Tuesday morning we went back to Holmes Jungle, together, and spent a couple of hours staking out a water point, without much success. In the afternoon we went back out to Lee Point, first to try to find the Gouldian Finches, and then back to the boat ramp. Mick didn't have much success at either place but we did meet someone who said that morning would be best for the finches.

Wednesday morning had us back at Knuckey Lagoon, then over to East Point. This precinct features many military relics from World War ll, as well as the Defence of Darwin Experience. Our reason for going was the Mangrove Boardwalk. This one was well signposted and a short 1.2km walk to the water. This spot turned out to be very productive. As well as lots of birds, Mick met a local birder who was happy to share her knowledge. 

From East Point we went to the Darwin Waterfront precint for lunch. Unfortunately it was too hot to sit outside and enjoy the view, we chose air-conditioned comfort instead. From there we went in to the CBD for a quick look, then on to the libray for free wifi and airconditioning.

Another early morning on Thursday and we were headed out to Lee Point in search of the Gouldian Finches. A couple of local birders had suggested that early morning was best - and they were right. After a good session with a few good shots, we went back down to the boat ramp just because we were close by.

Mick still didn't have the shot he wanted so it was back to Lee Point for sunrise on Friday - and this time he was happy with the outcome. We noticed from a local Facebook group that there would be a large group there on Saturday morning so we figured Friday would be our last chance. From Lee Point we went back down to the Mangrove Boardwalk at East Point. This time the tide was quite a long way out but there were still some birds about.

On Saturday morning, our last full day, we went back to Casuarina Coastal Reserve and walked in a 3km loop from the end of the road, along the walking track to another mangrove walk,  and then around the back of the hospital and back through yet another mangrove boardwalk to the beach where we had started. We also looked in at a spot in Coconut Grove that a local birder had told Mick about. It was a nice walk through the mangroves at low tide, to the beach, but not terribly productive.

On the way home we went down to the Fisherman's Wharf to buy some seafood - fresh prawns for lunch, mackeral for dinner and some frozen fillets for later.

We spent 7 nights in Darwin and apart from Mindil Beach Sunset Markets, we didn’t do any of the touristy things – but we did spend a lot of time birdwatching and Mick was well pleased with the number of new birds he was able to photograph. 

We decided to return to Darwin after Kakadu and booked a couple of nights out at the caravan park at Lee Point. We also started to plan and book a number of places over the next 6 weeks. We don’t usually travel this way, but with so many people on the road, and national parks requiring online bookings in Northern Territory and  Western Australia we thought it was the wise thing to do.

We set off from Darwin en route to Cooinda in Kakadu National Park, with a couple of stops along the way - to look for birds at the Adelaide River and lunch at the Mary River. We also stopped at the Bowali Visitor Centre to pick up a visitor guide. We had already purchased our Kakadu park passes online so we were all set for our week in Kakadu National Park.

Howard Springs

 2 - 5 June 2022

We called in to see the camp hosts at Florence Falls campground to give them the good news about the camera being found and they suggested a couple of stops along our way out of the park. We set off and had only gone a few hundred metres when we noticed a nasty sound coming from under the car. We had a look, could see nothing so continued on - slowly. The noise returned as the speed increased so we called in to the carpark at Buley Rockholes for another look. Still nothing, and no warning lights either. We decided to chance our luck and turned towards Darwin via Berry Springs. 

We stopped at Tabletop Swamp and had a good look around - mainly for birds. The noise under the car had persisted to that point but when we left we heard a couple of clunks and then we never heard it again. We hope that it was a stick or something similar caught in the wheel. 

We called in to Wangi Falls just before lunchtime and want for the walk down to the falls and plunge pool. The pool had not yet been reopened for swimming after the wet season. Contrary to popular belief there is not a salt water crocodile in there causing the closure. We were reliably informed that there is a marker below which the water must fall to enable  a thorough check for crocs, then the pool would be reopened. We bought lunch at the cafe and continued our journey to Howard Springs. 

We had been allocated a site in the "pets permitted" area of the caravan park, so requested a move. We are so glad we did as we ended up on a lovely shady site just a short walk from the amenities and not too far from the pool. We wasted no time in trying out the pool, and enjoyed the shade back at camp.

In the morning we went down to Howards Springs Nature Reserve to look for the Rainbow Pitta. Mick found it, but as usual it was more interested in staying in the shadows than coming out to have its photo taken. We had a look around the reserve and went down to the actual springs. You can't swim in the springs but there are some nice man-made pools to cool off in. 

Next morning we rose very early to be at Fogg Dam for sunrise and we timed it perfectly. Fogg Dam is a very well known birdwatching spot and Mick was not disappointed. We spent some time on the dam wall, and also walked along the Woodlands to Waterlily Walk. This walk skirts the edge of the dam and we saw lots of birds along the way. It's an easy 2.2km return. After our walk we stopped for coffee at the picnic area before heading back to Howard Springs and more relaxing in the shade and swimming.  

We had only a short drive of about 1/2 hour to get to our next destination in Darwin, and had arranged to check in early. We still took our time packing up and even fitted in a quick swim, before heading off. We enjoyed our time at Howard Springs so much we booked to return later in the month.

Litchfield National Park - Florence Falls Old 4WD Campground

 29 May - 2 June 2022

We headed off from Batchelor after morning tea and entered Litchfield National Park. As with all Northern Territory national parks we had already booked online so knew exactly where we needed to go. Along the way we stopped at the Magnetic Termite Mounds. There is some interpretative information as well as a very short walk. I remember marvelling at these when we visited Litchfield over 30 years ago. They weren't set up as a tourist attraction in those days.

We made it to the campground and found our site had been vacated already - as it should given it was almost lunch time. We set up and were very happy with our online choice. Some shade, some sun for the solar, a fire pit we were unlikely to use but in a good location, near the amenities and, best of all, just a short walk to the falls and plunge pool. 

Of course we had to try out the pool so headed down once we were settled in. What a fabulous spot, but so crowded in the middle of the day. The other major swimming spot - Wangi Falls - was still closed following the wet season so it seemed like everyone who wanted a swim had come to Florence Falls. We hoped it would be better in the early morning or late afternoon.

There are a couple of easy walks in the area so we started with the one that went from the Florence Falls Picnic Area to Buley Rockholes. The walk itself wasn't great because much of this part of the country had been burned - but the rockholes themselves was the perfect place for a swim. We also went on the walk from the campground to the plunge pool and then on to the picnic area. This was a lovely walk which we finished with a swim in the creek. This part of the creek is a designated swimming area and there are lots of spots where you can slide in. We went there a couple of times, and also to Buley Rockholes where we were able to snag a spot to ourselves. 

There is a lookout which is just a short walk from the car park, and which gives great views of the falls. Between the walks, swimming at Buley Rockholes and the picnic area, as well as at the falls plunge pool, we managed to fill in our time very well. 

Mick took some bird photos but also spent lots of time with the underwater camera photographing fish, and me, in the water - until he dropped it in the plunge pool! It was early morning so the sun wasn't shining enough to be able to see, and the pool is also very deep in parts. We agonised over what to do, and left a note with details for the camp hosts just in case someone found it. Anyway, at about 4:00pm that afternoon a car drove by our camp, slowed, stopped and the driver called out "did you lose a camera?" Dave and Sue had been swimming in the pool mid-morning and spotted the camera shining on the bottom. Dave had goggles so he dived down to retrieve it. They checked the photos, and matched my face to what they had seen on the camera. We shouted them a few cold drinks that night! We just couldn't believe how lucky we had been to get it back, and we are very grateful there are such nice people who would go to that much trouble to return something they found.

After three relaxing days we packed up and set off for Howard Springs, just out of Darwin.