Strzelecki Track - Montecollina Bore

 30 - 31 October 2021

The road from the Dig Tree turn-off was sealed all the way to Innamincka. We detoured into the town and were pleasantly surprised at the great facilities available. There was ample parking near the store and pub, adjacent to new looking toilets and showers. We fueled up at the Trading Post store and bought a coffee.

Chatting to the staff we learned that the Strzelecki Track had been closed because of rain in the last few days, but had just reopened the night before. Great timing on our part. As well as a very good variety of groceries, frozen food, and camping and fishing gear, the store also has a book exchange. If you don't have one to swap a donation to the RFDS will get you one too.

We drove down to the Town Common to have a look and use the dump point. You can camp on the Common and, with toilets scattered about, some shady trees and the creek, it would be a good spot. We decided to stick to our plan though and head along the track.

A few kilometres out of Innaminka the bitumen ends and the unsealed road begins. The condition varied and there were a couple of stretches of bitumen along the way. Signage indicated each was about 7km in length.

We stopped for lunch at the Moomba Rest Area. There is a picnic shelter and rubbish bins, but no toilets. The information shelter gives an insight into the Moomba oil and gas industry. We couldn't fathom why Santos, the company making a huge fortune from the natural resources, couldn't provide a loo for the travelling public.

We drove on to Montecoĺlina Bore Rest Area which is about half way along the track. Again, there is plenty a space to camp and we chose a spot next to an old picnic shelter. There are lots of small dunes creating a sense of privacy - although it wasn't needed as we were the only ones there.

There was a bit of wind and a few flies, but nothing that would make our stay unpleasant. Lots of birds around kept Mick happy and occupied with the camera for most of the afternoon. As night fell, the temperature started to drop and reached 12.5 degrees by morning. We had hoped for some cooler weather after sweltering in over 40 degrees, and we sure did get it.

Despite the cold, it was a beautiful morning with a stunning sunrise - I could see it through the window by my bed. Breakfast in a sunny spot helped to warm us up. Mick went out again with the camera and found one of the dingoes we had heard calling.

We decided to stay until after lunch and the move further on down the Strzelecki Track to another camp-site at the Old Blanchwater Station Ruins.

We almost missed the turn-off to the ruins as it is really only visible coming from the west - we only found it when we turned around. Thank goodness for Wikicamps. After a bit of a look around we decided to give it a miss. Many reviewers rate the ruins more highly than the bore, but we preferred the solitude and unusual landscape of Montecolllina so we continued on towards Copley for our next stop.

The Dig Tree

 29 - 30 October 2021

We left Thargomindah after a pleasant morning which included a walk along the path by the Bulloo River. Heading further west we eventually found a rest area at the Innamincka turn-off where we stopped for lunch.

We then continued on towards Innamincka, taking the well-signposted turn-off to the Dig Tree. The road from Thargomindah was sealed all the way to the turn-off. From there it was 14 km of dirt. Because of recent rain, there was some water over the road in parts. We had planned on visiting some time ago on a trip we weren't able to make due to state border restrictions as a result of Covid19. It was good to be finally making our way to this famous spot.

The Dig Tree is the where the ill-fated Burke and Wills expedition finally came to an end. The remaining explorers who had tried to reach the Gulf of Carpentaria returned to this camp-site only to find that the party who had waited patiently for more than four months had left only hours before. With little food, and severely weakened, Burke and Wills died. Despite the tragedy this is a beautiful and peaceful spot.

There is an information shelter and toilets at the entrance to the reserve. From there it is a few hundred metres to the creek - Cooper Creek - and the famous tree. The signage tells the story of there actually being two "dig" trees. It is worth spending some time brushing up on this part of Australia's history.

There is ample space for camping so we chose a shady spot near the creek to set up our camp. The weather had significantly improved and we enjoyed the cool breeze through the afternoon. The only down side was the huge numbers of marauding ants! They crawled up our legs and had us seeking solutions to avoid them - with very limited success. Even dark time didn't deter them.

In the morning we decided to move on, with a stop in Innamincka before tackling the Strzelecki Track. We knew there was rain forecast for Tuesday and wanted to allow a couple of days to camp somewhere on the track.

Thargomindah

 28 - 29 October 2021

We left Cunnamulla after making the decision to book a cabin based on the weather forecast. We stopped at a couple of likely birdy spots on the way towards Eulo, including Paddabilla Bore. We had camped there with the kids about 15 years ago. It would be a nice spot of not for the heat and wind. We also stopped for a picnic lunch in Eulo at the little park adjacent to the Old Police Cells.

From there we drove further west and had a quick look at Lake Bindegolly before arriving in Thargomindah. We checked into the cabin and did some washing while the temperature hovered just above 40 degrees. I decided to walk the short distance to the shops for supplies and was warned by the staff about the approaching dust storm. As I made my way home, I could see what they were talking about. I have seen dust storms before but this was positively apocalyptic. Along with just about everyone else in the caravan park, we took photos as it approached, then retreated inside as it hit. It was quite an experience and we were very glad we weren't in the camper trailer.

The storm eventually passed and some overnight rain meant a fresh and clear morning. Again checking the weather, we decided to aim for the Dig Tree as our next overnight stop.

We didn't feel the need to get away too early so we took the opportunity to walk along the river adjacent to the caravan park. There is a well made walking path with some interpretive signage, as well as picnic tables and even recliners to relax in and admire the view.

We stocked up on a few essentials, and called into the Toyota dealer who was able to reset the offending warning light as well as sell us fuel. We the headed west towards the South Australian border.

Cunnamulla - Charlotte Plains

 25 - 28 October 2021

We went for a walk on the property before leaving Charleville, bound for Cunnamulla. We usually stay at Bowra Bird Sanctuary but it had closed for the season so we decided to give Charlotte Plains a try. Mick had spoken to some fellow bird photographers who recommended the Bore Camp so we booked 2 nights.

On our way south from Charleville we noticed a warning light had come on indicating a problem with the car's timing belt. Given that this particular item had (or should have) been replaced at the 150,000km service only 1000km ago, we were a little concerned. Once we arrived in Cunnamulla we headed to the local RACQ agent who, although unable to reset the warning, was able to reassure us that is was just a reminder that should have been reset at the service.

Happy that all was well with the car, we drove back to the park near the visitor centre for a picnic lunch. A quick look in the Visitor Information Centre and we were armed with some information about possible places to stay on our way west, we then headed east towards St George, before turning off for Charlotte Plains Station.

We made our way to the homestead where we checked in and chatted to owner Robyn, before driving back the way we had come to the Bore Head Camp ground. This open area is situated along the bore drain, with some shady trees, flushing toilets, hot showers and baths for soaking in the artesian water. Although rustic and basic, the amenities were clean and there was plenty of room to find a good spot in the campground.

Of course Mick spent much of the time trying to photograph the abundant birdlife. Fortunately the weather had improved and it was not as hot as the previous few days. A cool breeze contributed to a very pleasant afternoon.

The temperature dropped considerably overnight and the cool breeze made for a beautiful morning. We decided to sample the delights of an artesian bath mid-morning. Lying in the warm water watching and listening to the birds was a perfect way to relax.

We spent the rest of the day chasing the shade and doing what we enjoy - reading for me and photographing birds for Mick. There were other friendly birders here so lots of opportunity to compare notes. During the afternoon we decided on an extra night, giving us three here. We knew the forecast was for another really hot day after a couple of milder ones, but it would be the same no matter where we stayed.

A bird, the bush and a bore drain - how much better can it get?

Tuesday night wasn't as cool as Monday had been, but the temperature did still drop during the might. On Wednesday morning, Mick rose early to go down to a now favourite spot, and once again we luxuriated in a bore bath before smoko. The temperature continued to work it's way towards 40° and we really struggled in the heat. We found a bore bath in the shade during the afternoon. Filling it while the water was still relatively cool made it a pleasant soak and a relief from the heat.

The temperature kept rising through the afternoon making it very difficult to do anything except follow the shade. After dinner, when the bugs were out in force we soaked in a tub and marvelled at the stars and satellites above us. Thursday morning was shaping up to be another hot one, and with no internet access we were unable to check the forecast. We packed up in a leisurely fashion and made our way into Cunnamulla. We filled a gas bottle and then headed to the bakery cafe where we checked our messages and the all important weather forecast.

As much as we would have liked to visit a few camping spots as we made our way towards Thargomindah, the promise of 40 degrees and thunderstorms had us making the decision that it would be another cabin night.

Charleville

 23 - 25 October 2021

After looking around Barcaldine, we set off towards Charleville. We stopped for morning tea in Blackall, and at a couple of rest areas for a stretch. The forecast was once again high 30's and it was about 39° when we stopped for lunch in Augathella.

We drove through town to a lovely spot by the (dry) river where you can also camp. It was a great spot for lunch despite the hot wind. We will keep it in mind as a possible camping spot in the future - nice clean toilet block, picnic shelters and lots of birds, and just a short walk to the pub. You can't get much better than that.

We had decided on a couple of extra nights in a cottage in Charleville where we had stayed once before and had booked in advance. As much as we love camping, it's not much fun when the temperature rises and the nights don't bring any relief. Our cottage at the Charleville Bush Caravan Park would have to be one of the best resourced we have ever stayed in. It has its own yard and everything needed for a very comfortable stay.

The view from our cottage at Charleville

After settling in, Mick spent a good bit of time wandering around looking for birds to photograph, while I settled into the air conditioning with a good book.

There was some rusty old junk to ponder

There were flowers to enjoy

On Sunday we spent a quiet morning at "home" with Mick wandering with the camera for most of the time. In the afternoon we visited the Charleville Cosmos Centre. It was necessary to book ahead, which we did online. The Cosmos Centre is one tourist attraction that I had always wanted to visit but we opted just to go along for the free "Astronomy by Day" self guided tour. Unfortunately we were rather disappointed for a number of reasons.

On entry, our booking was not checked and we were just directed in to wander around. The displays were interesting but the audio on a couple of the videos was so bad that we could not understand what was being said. The "Outback Stargazing Theatre" featured NASA videos (again with dreadful audio) that didn't seem to have anything to do with the Australian outback.

The absence of Australian content on the interactive map of the world showing how ancient civilizations viewed the solar system was astounding. We also found it unusual that there was nothing in the self-guided tour to encourage participation in the other tours available.

The late afternoon was again very hot but Mick still managed to go out walking with the camera. We also decided on, and booked, our next stop at Charlotte Plains near Cunnamulla.

There is always kangaroos around

Striated Pardalote

On Monday morning we tidied and packed the car ready for the journey further south, and hopefully better weather.

Barcaldine

22 - 23 October 2021

We rose early on the final morning in our house and had finished all the last minute chores, ready to leave at 7:00am. We had planned a big day's drive from Townsville to Barcaldine. Because of the extreme heat forecast we planned to stay in a cabin for our first night away from home.

Heading out of Townsville we made our way to Charters Towers where we stopped for coffee and to top up with fuel. From there we continued along the Flinders HIghway to Torrens Creek, then turned off onto the road to Aramac. Stopping for lunch at a rest stop along the way, the temperature had hit 40°, with a hot wind.

We continued on through Aramac and on to Barcaldine. It was only mid-afternoon but we had been up early, and had been on the road for 8 hours so we chose our accommodation based on two very important criteria - air conditioning and a swimming pool. The Ironbark Inn had both. The cabin was basic, but adequate for one night. We dined at the on-site restaurant and the meal was very good.

In the morning we spent some time looking around. We went down to the park at Lagoon Creek so Mick could try to photograph some birds. We also went to have a look at the "Tree of Knowledge". The original ghost gum was the site of meetings during a shearers strike in 1891. Following the unsuccessful strike, the Australia Labor Party was formed. This iconic tree was poisoned and died in 2006. The new memorial site is quite magnificent and definitely worth a visit.

Leaving Home

We love to travel and have been on many months-long trips in the last 7 years, so we finally made the decision to sell our home in Townsville and travel full time in our Cub camper trailer. After a few very hectic months we were finally able to set off as "happily homeless" grey nomands. Mick is a keen bird photographer, we love to visit national parks and our daughters live in Tasmania, so they are our starting points for planning our journey. Due to current bordrer restrictions, and some uncertainty about the future we made the decision to travel through central western Queensland and along the Strzelecki Track into South Australia. From there we will travel to Tasmania. After that we plan to return to South Australia, and over to Western Australia. After that, we're not sure. We hope to spend at least 12 months "on the road", before deciding where to settle.