Tasmania - Orford and Scamander

22 - 26 January 2017

Mick has always wanted to go to Maria Island and the opportunity presented itself when Julia and Josh made the decision to move to Hobart and needed help with transporting a load of boxes one weekend. We drove straight to Hobart where we duly delivered the household goods and then headed towards Orford for a couple of nights. It had been our intention to stay at Orford and visit Maria Island on Monday, but when Mick called to book a few days before, he was told there were no seats left for Monday but we could go on Tuesday. Despite the less than ideal weather forecast we accepted this alternative and booked our ferry tickets.

After a big day's drive we found our accommodation at Orford, went for a short drive to get our bearings and planned our next day's activities. On Monday morning we set off to explore the area, starting first with a drive to Triabunna where we would catch the ferry to Maria Island. For a small village there was plenty to keep us occupied for a while including a short walk along the shore, an art gallery, museum, men's shed and op-shop. We enjoyed our visit so much we returned later for lunch of fish and chips from the van located near the marina. Good, tasty and fresh!

Orford is a popular fishing destination.

Back at Orford we walked along the beach and part the way along a designated walk that has interpretive information via qr code which has been created by the local school students. We also walked along the "10 minute walk" through the bush from the main road to the beach.

Juvenile Yellow Wattlebird

Green Rosella

A Pacific Gull has a bath in a tidal creek at the finish of the 10 min walk.

The east coast is supposed to be a good location to see Swift Parrots. I have not had any luck finding these rare birds and that did not change on this trip. As a consolation, I had not photographed Cape Barren Geese before and they are abundant on Maria Island. At Scamander, there is a fenced off breeding area for Little and Fairy Terns as well as Red-capped and Hooded Plovers. It is important not to go too close to this area as it may disrupt breeding. However, plenty of birds venture out to hunt in public areas where they can be observed and photographed. It's a favorite place of mine. Mick.

On Tuesday morning we set off for the 9:00am ferry from Triabunna to Maria Island. When we booked the tickets the weather forecast had indicated "windy" but unfortunately by Tuesday morning it now read "gale force winds with 2 - 3 metre swells". I'm not much of a sailor so I was not looking forward to the journey in a smallish ferry. Despite the swells the journey was not as bad as I thought it would be and I managed to get there and back without the slightest hint of seasickness. 

On the way over the ferry captain advised that most walks should be done in a clockwise direction so that you would not be walking into the wind on the exposed sections. We didn't mean to ignore this advice but that's how it worked out. We initially set off for the Reservoir Walk, in a clock wise direction, but the wind made bird photography impossible so we continued on past the turnoff and onto the Fossil Cliffs walk. This didn't seem so bad while we were walking through the treed area, but once we came out onto the exposed hills we fully understood why we should have gone the other way! We went down for a closer look at the fossils in the cliff face and then battled back down to the jetty. Next time we will follow the advice given by those who know. Our poor planning resulted in a very uncomfortable and heavy going walk.

Although we only saw one Wombat, they are supposedly common.

Spectacular coastal scenery near Fossil Cliffs.

A bi-valve fossil.

This old equipment shed offered some respite from the howling wind towards the end of the walk.

We made our way down to the picnic area in the campground for lunch and found a fairly sheltered spot. There are no shops on Maria Island so you have to carry everything you need with you. We enjoyed a picnic lunch and a rest then set off up the hill towards the Painted Cliffs. We didn't get far before deciding against that particular venture. We were booked to return on the 2:30pm ferry and didn't think we could get there and back in the wind. We were also feeling very tired from the previous walk too!

Cape Barren Goose

I found White-fronted Chats around the camp ground.

We spent some time exploring around the old town of Darlington. Maria Island was initially established as a penal settlement, before the establishment of the more famous Port Arthur. There are convict built structures and others from later times when the island was home to farmers and whalers. Some of the buildings have been restored, and others are to be restored. You can enter some and learn more about the inhabitants. As a National Park, a current parks pass is required when you visit. There is camping and accommodation in the old penitentiary building. Transport around the island is by foot or pushbike which can be hired on the island.

The return journey was even rougher than on the way over, and as a consequence the ferry arrived a good bit later than anticipated. Once back on dry land, we hit the road to Scamander. We stayed there last year and enjoyed a great location right on the beach. This time, the restaurant attached to the motel was open so we treated ourselves to a really nice meal after a very big day.

Our accommodation is bottom left.

The river mouth at Scamander.

Juvenile Pacific Gull

Australian Pied Oystercatcher

'Let's count those legs again' Silver Gull

Red-necked Stint. There were lots of these little waders around.

Swamp Harrier

Fairy Tern. These breed on the beach. This one was having some quiet time away from the nest.

Caspian Tern.

Juvenile Black-faced Cormorant.

On Wednesday morning we drove up to St Helen's then on to Tea Gardens where we stopped at various beach and lagoon spots to take some photos and absorb the fabulous scenery of the Bay of Fires. We returned to Scamander for lunch and later in the day I drove up into the hills to visit another friend  who moved from Townsville to Tassie. Mick spent some time on the beach taking photos and I joined him for a walk.

Bay of Fires. We would probably have had a swim but forgot our swimmers.

On Thursday morning we drove back to Devonport, through "the middle", stopping at St Mary's for coffee and then Deloraine for lunch. Mick felt it appropriate to have a pie, seeing it was Australia Day.

Tasmania - Cradle Mountain

16 - 18 January 2017

Every tree trunk is a miniature garden.

Cradle Mountain has been a favourite destination since our first visit 11 years ago. We always try to spend a few days there and this trip was no exception. Because we only booked a few weeks in advance we could only get two nights at our chosen accommodation. We drove from Devonport through Forth and on to Cradle Mountain (actually Cradle Valley but everyone knows it as Cradle Mountain). We checked into our cabin and spent a relaxing afternoon soaking up the atmosphere with a bush view.

Black Currawong (endemic). The following shots were all taken from the balcony of our cabin.

Scrubtit (endemic).

Echidnas are fairly common.

Tasmanian Scrubwren (endemic).

Tasmanian Scrubwren (endemic).

We decided this visit to go to Devils@Cradle, a Tasmanian Devil Sanctuary. This conservation facility houses devils, as well as their nearest living relatives, the Spotted and Eastern-tail Quolls. This is a research, breeding, education and tourist facility that I can highly recommend. For $18 per adult we could wander the grounds on our own or join a tour - we did both. Advertised as taking about 45 minutes, ours took much longer as our experienced and highly knowledgeable guide provided essential information about the plight and future of the Tasmanian Devil. All aspects of devil life and behaviour were covered, including the fascinating but worrying Devil Facial Tumor Disease. Please visit if you get the chance.

Spotted-tailed or Tiger Quoll.

Eastern Quoll

Tasmanian Devil, a close relative of the quoll.

One of the residents.

This Flame Robin was gathering food for nestlings as we walked around the enclosures.

Besides the devils and quolls, this is also a great birding destination. I saw Flame Robin, Yellow-throated Honeyeater, Scrubtit, Tasmanian Scrubwren and Crescent Honeyeater. Mick

In the afternoon we set off for the visitor centre where we obtained our bus tickets. Visitors require a National Parks Pass, which entitles you to free transport to and from Dove Lake by bus. The bus makes a number of stops along the way - at the Ranger Station, Snake Hill, Ronny Creek and Dove Lake. The walk around Dove Lake is well worth the effort but we chose to disembark at Ronny Creek and walk a short way towards Lake Lilla and then backtrack to the bus stop, then down to Snake Hill, all along the boardwalk. This is a beautiful walk which is on boardwalk with some steps up and down hills. The views are fantastic and there is the opportunity to see wombats and echindas.

The boardwalk winds through Button Grass and alpine ferns.

We returned to Devonport via Sheffield with its magnificent views of Mount Roland, which had the photographer stopping to take a few snaps.

Tasmania - Lower Beulah (Near Sheffield)

8 - 10 January 2017

We planned a short stay not too far from our temporary home in Devonport and found a cabin in the bush near Sheffield at Lower Beulah. It only took about 3/4 hour to get there so we arrived early in the afternoon on a very hot summer's day - over 30 degrees which is exceptionally hot for Tassie. The cabin is on a hill overlooking the property and near the Minnow River. It's a very nice spot and perfect for a relaxing Sunday afternoon.

Eastern Spinebill.

 Apart from the Eastern Spinebill, I didn't do much bird photography at this location. Mick

On Monday morning we set off into Sheffield, the nearest town. Sheffield is well known as the "Town of Murals" and these works of art adorn many buildings in and around the town. The town also has magnificent views of Mount Roland. Although only a small town, there are a number of cafes, a pub, various shops and a good visitor information centre. Oh, and there is also a fudge shop! Yes, we did come away with a box of six different, delicious flavours.

Mount Roland

We decided to return the long way to Devonport on Tuesday morning  - going out to Mole Creek to visit the caves there. We took the back roads towards Paradise then the Mole Creek Road before turning towards Mole Creek Caves. There are two caves at different locations - Marakoopa and King Solomons. We chose the closest one, with the easiest access, Marakoopa. Tour tickets are purchased at the main office, then it is a short drive up to the cave entrance. Tours are scheduled throughout the day and there are a couple of options. Because it was so busy, extra tours had been scheduled so we didn't have to wait too long. 

Our tour, Underground River and Glow-worms involved a few stairs as well as some low and narrow passages. The cave had been closed since about May 2016 due to flood damage and had only recently been re-opened with all new electrical and lighting. Although not as spectacular as some of the better know caves (eg Jenolan Caves in NSW) this was still a beautiful and worthwhile tour.

We stopped for lunch in Mole Creek and then drove on to Chudleigh where we stopped at the Honey Farm. There are so many different flavours of honey which you can sample before purchasing your favoutrite(s) which of course we did. 

Tasmania - Derwent Bridge and Lake St Clair

30 December 2016 - 1 January 2017

We   left around lunchtime for the drive to Derwent Bridge via the Great Lakes. The GPS tried to get us to go via Burnie which would have added about 100km and 1 hour to the trip - but we weren't fooled, having driven this way before. This drive does take you along unsealed roads, but apart from a couple of very short narrow sections and a couple of tight corners, it's a good road and easy driving in good weather. There are a few lookouts along the way and the usual spectacular views once you achieve some altitude. This part of Tasmania does get snow and Julia, Josh and Jo had driven through falling snow just two weeks prior - yes, that's right it snowed in Tassie on 18 December and we have the video to prove it!

It took about 2 1/2 hours to get to Derwent Bridge so we were too early to check into our cabin. We drove the short distance up to Lake St Clair and picked up a couple of  booklets and brochures from the National Parks office and had a coffee at the cafe (it was awful) before heading back down the road to check in. Our cabin was close to the main road but quiet and with a view out towards the bush. Being a Friday we ventured down to the pub (Derwent Bridge Wilderness Hotel) for a drink. We discovered that caravans and campervans can now use the carpark for overnight stays. Not real flash but certainly a good incentive to spend a bit more time in the area, and a welcome break on the drive between the West Coast and Hobart.

Yellow Wattlebirds were around but further away and higher up than the ideal.

Yellow Wattlebird. My photography bogie bird. This is an improvement on what I had but still a very large crop.

Taken near our cabin. Like the Yellow Wattlebird, this Green Rosella is a Tasmanian endemic.

Juvenile Laughing Kookaburra.

Because we have visited the area several times, we accepted the advice of the cabin owner to drive out to Laughing Jack Lagoon. The turn-off was almost all the way back to Bronte Park, and then along 12 km of unsealed road. This road provided a couple of blind corners and narrow bridges but was otherwise a fairly good road. For part of the way it follows the old pipeline, some of which is made of timber! Part way along the road we came to an old dam wall on the Clarence River, then eventually found Laughing Jack Lagoon, another dam. On the way back to the highway we stopped to look for birds and to take some photos.

It was cold and windy when we found Laughing Jack Lagoon.

This is a section of steel hooped, wooden pipeline that is still in operation. We passed a few spurting leaks but it is still good.

Detail of the tensioning system.

Native White Iris (Diplarrena moraea) were flowering in the surrounding bush.

Striated Pardalote

We had decided to have lunch at the pub but changed our minds when we saw the uninspiring menu. We have eaten both lunches and dinners here and have never been disappointed until this visit. Instead, we had a really nice burger at the Hungry Wombat Cafe just down the road then drove back up to Lake St Clair for another look around. We stopped at the dam and walked across the wall - this is close to the headwaters of the Derwent River which rises in Lake St Clair, flows through the highlands, ends up in Hobart and eventually empties into the Tasman Sea at Storm Bay. 

From there we drove out towards Pumphouse Point. This luxury accommodation can be seen from across the lake but can only be accessed by road via a locked gate. Just before reaching the gate there is a parking area with signs indicating public pedestrian access to fishing spots. We walked through the bush close to St Clair Lagoon and Derwent Basin, eventually coming out at the Pumphouse Point property. It was then just a short walk back down the road to the carpark.

Strong-billed Honeyeater at Pumphouse Point.

We had been told by the National Parks officer about a new, as yet unfinished, walk along the southern shore of Lake St Clair so that was next on the agenda. This walk is accessed via the road to the boat ramp, but you have to park at the main car park. The track is clear but travels over small rocks or large pebbles for much of the way so sturdy footwear is essential. After a few hundred metres the path disappeared under water so that's where we turned around. It was a pleasant short walk and we look forward to its completion.

I love the patterned bark of blue gum trunks in Tassie.

We enjoyed a quiet New Year's Eve with some nice food we had brought with us and a few bubbles. We didn't feel like joining the crowds expected at the pub. In the morning we set off for home, again via the Great Lakes. The day was clear and bright as we headed off, but when we drove along the edge of Great Lake we could see some unusual cloud in the distance. Not sure if it was an incoming storm or just cloud, we eventually discovered it was indeed low cloud. We drove carefully due to the significantly reduced visibility. We had spotted the Pine Lake Nature Trail on the way up to Derwent Bridge and wanted to take this short walk on our way home. Undeterred by the cloud, we donned our warm jackets and beanies and set off along the boardwalk, It was quite weird to be walking in the clouds in such a magnificent spot. There were wildflowers blooming everywhere and good interpretive information. The walk ended at Pink Lake - not that we could see much of it!

Old fence posts disappear into the mist.

Bright green cushion plants can be seen in the foreground.

Well...there's a view there somewhere.

Ancient pines dotted the flowering alpine heath giving the impression of a Japanese garden.

We eventually came out of the clouds and drove on to Deloraine for lunch at the pub - fabulous soup and wood fired pizza bread - then home to Devonport.