Thursday 26 January 2017

Tasmania - Orford and Scamander

22 - 26 January 2017

Mick has always wanted to go to Maria Island and the opportunity presented itself when Julia and Josh made the decision to move to Hobart and needed help with transporting a load of boxes one weekend. We drove straight to Hobart where we duly delivered the household goods and then headed towards Orford for a couple of nights. It had been our intention to stay at Orford and visit Maria Island on Monday, but when Mick called to book a few days before, he was told there were no seats left for Monday but we could go on Tuesday. Despite the less than ideal weather forecast we accepted this alternative and booked our ferry tickets.

After a big day's drive we found our accommodation at Orford, went for a short drive to get our bearings and planned our next day's activities. On Monday morning we set off to explore the area, starting first with a drive to Triabunna where we would catch the ferry to Maria Island. For a small village there was plenty to keep us occupied for a while including a short walk along the shore, an art gallery, museum, men's shed and op-shop. We enjoyed our visit so much we returned later for lunch of fish and chips from the van located near the marina. Good, tasty and fresh!
Orford is a popular fishing destination.
Back at Orford we walked along the beach and part the way along a designated walk that has interpretive information via qr code which has been created by the local school students. We also walked along the "10 minute walk" through the bush from the main road to the beach.

Juvenile Yellow Wattlebird
Green Rosella
A Pacific Gull has a bath in a tidal creek at the finish of the 10 min walk.
The east coast is supposed to be a good location to see Swift Parrots. I have not had any luck finding these rare birds and that did not change on this trip. As a consolation, I had not photographed Cape Barren Geese before and they are abundant on Maria Island. At Scamander, there is a fenced off breeding area for Little and Fairy Terns as well as Red-capped and Hooded Plovers. It is important not to go too close to this area as it may disrupt breeding. However, plenty of birds venture out to hunt in public areas where they can be observed and photographed. It's a favorite place of mine. Mick.

On Tuesday morning we set off for the 9:00am ferry from Triabunna to Maria Island. When we booked the tickets the weather forecast had indicated "windy" but unfortunately by Tuesday morning it now read "gale force winds with 2 - 3 metre swells". I'm not much of a sailor so I was not looking forward to the journey in a smallish ferry. Despite the swells the journey was not as bad as I thought it would be and I managed to get there and back without the slightest hint of seasickness. 

On the way over the ferry captain advised that most walks should be done in a clockwise direction so that you would not be walking into the wind on the exposed sections. We didn't mean to ignore this advice but that's how it worked out. We initially set off for the Reservoir Walk, in a clock wise direction, but the wind made bird photography impossible so we continued on past the turnoff and onto the Fossil Cliffs walk. This didn't seem so bad while we were walking through the treed area, but once we came out onto the exposed hills we fully understood why we should have gone the other way! We went down for a closer look at the fossils in the cliff face and then battled back down to the jetty. Next time we will follow the advice given by those who know. Our poor planning resulted in a very uncomfortable and heavy going walk.

Although we only saw one Wombat, they are supposedly common.
Spectacular coastal scenery near Fossil Cliffs.
A bi-valve fossil.
This old equipment shed offered some respite from the howling wind towards the end of the walk.
We made our way down to the picnic area in the campground for lunch and found a fairly sheltered spot. There are no shops on Maria Island so you have to carry everything you need with you. We enjoyed a picnic lunch and a rest then set off up the hill towards the Painted Cliffs. We didn't get far before deciding against that particular venture. We were booked to return on the 2:30pm ferry and didn't think we could get there and back in the wind. We were also feeling very tired from the previous walk too!

Cape Barren Goose
I found White-fronted Chats around the camp ground.
We spent some time exploring around the old town of Darlington. Maria Island was initially established as a penal settlement, before the establishment of the more famous Port Arthur. There are convict built structures and others from later times when the island was home to farmers and whalers. Some of the buildings have been restored, and others are to be restored. You can enter some and learn more about the inhabitants. As a National Park, a current parks pass is required when you visit. There is camping and accommodation in the old penitentiary building. Transport around the island is by foot or pushbike which can be hired on the island.

The return journey was even rougher than on the way over, and as a consequence the ferry arrived a good bit later than anticipated. Once back on dry land, we hit the road to Scamander. We stayed there last year and enjoyed a great location right on the beach. This time, the restaurant attached to the motel was open so we treated ourselves to a really nice meal after a very big day.

Our accommodation is bottom left.
The river mouth at Scamander.
Juvenile Pacific Gull
Australian Pied Oystercatcher
'Let's count those legs again' Silver Gull
Red-necked Stint. There were lots of these little waders around.
Swamp Harrier
Fairy Tern. These breed on the beach. This one was having some quiet time away from the nest.
Caspian Tern.
Juvenile Black-faced Cormorant.
On Wednesday morning we drove up to St Helen's then on to Tea Gardens where we stopped at various beach and lagoon spots to take some photos and absorb the fabulous scenery of the Bay of Fires. We returned to Scamander for lunch and later in the day I drove up into the hills to visit another friend  who moved from Townsville to Tassie. Mick spent some time on the beach taking photos and I joined him for a walk.

Bay of Fires. We would probably have had a swim but forgot our swimmers.

On Thursday morning we drove back to Devonport, through "the middle", stopping at St Mary's for coffee and then Deloraine for lunch. Mick felt it appropriate to have a pie, seeing it was Australia Day.


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