Eyre Peninsula - Tumby Bay, Coffin Bay, Elliston and Kimba

Tumby Bay

25 - 26 November 2015

The wind was howling and the temperature had reached 38 degrees, so we were glad to stop in Tumby Bay and check into a cabin for the night. We felt a bit soft doing this, but there were at least three other camper trailers parked outside cabins by night time.

Tumby Bay in the morning.

Before we left in the morning we took a walk on the beach - it looks like a nice spot, shame about the wind. We decided to head to Port Lincoln and then over to Coffin Bay.

Coffin Bay

26 - 27 November 2015

We had a short drive to Port Lincoln where we stopped for coffee on the waterfront, then over to Coffin Bay by lunchtime. We stopped at the caravan park and chose a reasonably level site, close to the amenities and camp kitchen. The wind persisted so we figured it would be good to be able to use the kitchen to cook dinner.

This young Pacific gull hung around the park hoping for a hand out.

The view just across the road from the caravan park.

A sleepy Fairy tern was a new bird for me.

A Sooty oystercatcher is right at home in this area which is so famous for its oysters.

We decided to drive over to have a look at the Yangie Bay campsite in the Coffin Bay National Park, but hadn't factored in the $10 park entry fee. We considered this a waste of money just to have a look, so we went back into the town and headed out for a drive in the area. We found our way to Wangary and Mount Dutton Bay, just s short drive away. On the way back, we followed the signs to the Pig Farm and Antique Shop. What a find! The piggery and antique shop are on the same property, and the shop has an amazing collection of antiques and old wares, as well as bacon and pork products. Definitely one of the most quirky businesses we have visited for a while. A pleasant afternoon out, with some fresh bacon as well.

Australian ringneck (race zonarius) seen on the drive.

In the morning we packed up and drove the 1/2 hour to the Yangie Bay campsite. 

Yangie Bay - Coffin Bay National Park

  

27 - 28 November 2015

This National Park is one of few that has self-registration at the entrance, so we paid when we arrived, deciding on one night only. We figured we could always drive back to the pay-station and pay for another night if we decided to stay longer. Because it was only a short distance we had camp set up in time for morning tea. Then we noticed the bees. The park brochure advised that bees come looking for water in the summer, and I suppose it was close enough to 1 December that the bees thought it was already summer. We thought if we put a bucket with some water in it away from our camp, they would leave us alone. WRONG! That just seemed to attract more. It was quite unpleasant and we had to make sure there was no moisture at all, to keep them at bay. It was a losing battle and we were unable to do much with them swarming all over our things. One night only for sure!

A small flock of Brown-headed honeyeaters visited a nearby She-oak.

White-browed (spotted) scrubwren (race maculatus). These were common but where were the bee-eaters?

Yangie Bay is the only campsite in Coffin Bay National Park that can be reached by conventional vehicle - along sealed roads. All the other campsites require beach and sand dune driving, and a great deal of skill. The parks information advised that tyres must be deflated for sand driving and we weren't geared up for that. Yangie is a very pretty spot - right on the beach, and even though the sites nearest the beach are designated for tents, there was plenty of room for the camper trailer.

In this area it is possible to see species such as Western whipbird, Blue-breasted fairywren and Western yellow robin without going across the Nullabor to WA to do so. This was a good reason to include the Eyre Peninsula in our itinerary. The Western whipbird has a reputation as a very hard bird to find and not surprisingly, I dipped out. In the morning, the Western yellow robin appeared near our camp for a couple of seconds and was not seen again. Luckily I had my camera! The Blue-breasted fairywren was much more co-operative. Mick.

Blue-breasted fairywren

Western yellow robin.

Later in the afternoon we walked along the Yangie Beach Hike - 2km up to the lookout and then looping back through the bush and along the bay. It was a really nice walk, not too challenging, with lots of interpretive signage (interestingly using a "Heath Goanna" character to convey the message), and some awesome views. It would be nice to spend a few days here at a different time of year.

View from the lookout along the Yangie Beach Hike.

We packed up - dodging bees all the while - and headed into Coffin Bay for lunch. Coffin Bay oysters are available at the local cafe so of course I had some - natural. They were absolutely delicious and so fresh, needing nothing extra. Almost like eating them straight off the rocks! After lunch we headed north up the coast to have a look at some of the western peninsula towns and perhaps stay another night in this part of the state.

Elliston

28 - 29 November 2015

We stopped at Elliston (at the suggestion of a chap we had met in Quorn) and decided this pretty little spot would do for our next stop. The caravan park we chose was right on the beach - although behind the sand dunes. A walk over the dune and you are on a really nice beach. There are cabins up on the dune with great views.

There is a "Clifftop Drive" so we did the tourist thing and went out to have a look. The drive is close to town and affords some fantastic views. There are also a number of sculptures featured along the way.

Great views from the clifftop drive.

Elliston seems like a nice little town - a grocery store, bakery, pub, 2 caravan parks - just about all you could need. We stopped for groceries before heading off on Sunday morning.


Kimba

29 - 30 November 2015

We wanted to visit the Gawler Ranges, so decided to head up the coast to Streaky Bay, then across to Wudinna, but our plans changed as we drove. Our first stop was Venus Bay - what a beautiful spot! We walked out along the curved jetty where a number of people were fishing. There were quite a number of small boats (tinnies) in the bay as well. Fishing is obviously the thing to do in Venus Bay.

Back up the coast to Streaky Bay, where we considered staying, but it really wasn't all that attractive (compared to the other places we had visited). We pushed on and headed inland.

As always our journey was influenced by the possibility of bird photos, and the Gawler Ranges seemed to be a likely destination. You can enter the park from a number of towns so we were able to be flexible about where to stay. We drove through a number of towns, none of which suited us. The caravan parks were generally on the highway, and offered little shade.

We made it into Kimba and had a look at the caravan park - again on the highway. Kimba does however have a couple of free camp sites in the town. We chose the Central Park - an initiative of the local Lions Club. A big open area to set up camp (all gravel) but with shade, toilets, a picnic shelter and BBQs. All this for a donation to the club. There was a caravan and a campervan there when we arrived, and we were later joined by two other vehicles. This is indeed a popular spot.

The forecast for Monday was for wind up to 40kph and temperatures in the high 30's - then for a cool change and stronger winds! We hit the road again before it became too hot.

We abandoned plans to visit the Gawler Ranges National Park and headed instead for Lake Gilles Conservation Park - about 17km east of Kimba. Lake Gilles is a salt lake, of which there are very many in South Australia. We did as was suggested on the signage on the edge of the lake - we went for a walk out on the salt. It was weird walking on a lake, and our shoes became encrusted with salt. We chased some birds and made our way further east as the temperature continued to rise and the wind howled.

The salt lake.

The bird guide book I have suggested the possibility of seeing Rufous treecreeper in the Lake Gilles Conservation Park area but this was not to be. We did see Mulga parrots and Yellow-plumed honeyeaters. Mick.

Yellow-plumed honeyeater

Female Mulga parrot.

We stopped for lunch at Port Germein and then kept on going south - all the while hoping the wind and temperature would drop. We called in to Port Wakefield but decided we might as well head for the Adelaide Hills and Hahndorf and get a cabin for a couple of nights. We have friends nearby who we wanted to visit and the weather forecast suggested camping would be unpleasant.

Clare and Quorn

Clare

21 - 22 November 2015

We drove from the Coorong National Park, back through Meningie and on to Murray Bridge on our way north. We made a couple of stops along the way, but the day was one for getting as far as we could. We decided Clare would be a good place to stop so checked into the caravan park at about 3:30pm.

The Banded Stilt is often seen in large flocks but this one was seen feeding alone at one of our stops.

The park is on the highway, but well laid out with lots of trees and a great camp kitchen. It was still windy so we made use of this facility - as did many others. It was a nice spot for an overnighter - with the Tourist Information Centre right next door.

Before leaving Clare we drove up to Gleeson Lakes wetland. This is a really beautiful spot being developed and maintained by the local Lions Club. They are doing a great job! 

On to Quorn with a stop for morning tea in Laura - many places were closed as it was a Sunday so we were pleased to find a nice coffee shop, and an "old wares" shop as well. 

Quorn

22 - 24 November 2015

We arrived at Quorn in the middle of the day, and the caravan park office was closed. The sign said to go find a spot, so we did. This caravan park is almost like being in the bush, but with all the advantages (hot showers and a laundry) of a caravan park. Friends had stayed here earlier in the year so we were glad to find their positive description accurate. Once the office opened again at 4:00pm we ventured up and found that they also hire DVDs, for a donation to Friends of Warren Gorge.

Crimson Rosella race subadelaidae.

Crimson Rosella.

We made use of the camp kitchen and escaped the cold in the camper watching a movie on Mick's computer. Such luxury!

Two different Eucalypts were flowering in the park attracting Red Wattlebirds.

In the morning we headed off to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens in Port Augusta. We had visited when we went to South Australia last year, and promised ourselves we would be back. There were lots of plants in flower and lots of birds around, so Mick was happy. It was hot, and after 5 hours (which included a nice lunch in the cafe - featuring local produce) we called it a day and drove back to Quorn.

Young White-fronted honeyeater.

Goanna.

Young Nankeen Kestrel.

Chirruping Wedgebill. We found it impossible to catch this bird in the open.

At the suggestion of the manager of the caravan park, we decided to venture out to Warren Gorge then next morning. The information pamphlet described a 5.2km walk which leaves from the day visitor carpark, or the campground. We decided on the carpark as the forecast was for 35 degrees and we figured that we would get the steepest climb over in the earlier part of the day. The pamphlet rated the walk as easy to moderate - and I was struggling after the first 500 metres! The path was steep, narrow in parts and very loose underfoot. The view, however, was magnificent. We reached Smoke-Oh Lookout and then made our way to the cairn marking the highest point on the walk. There was a visitor log book so we signed, and checked to find the names of friends who had come this way in July. The rest of the walk was indeed easier, but still very tricky in parts, and the heat didn't help.

Lots of great views on this walk.

Adding our names to the log book.

Grass trees... called Yakkas in South Aus.

We finally reached the bottom, and we still hadn't seen the gorge. We pushed on, and the gorge started to appear, with rocky walls where Mick hoped to find a Yellow-footed rock wallaby. Unfortunately, most creatures were well hidden so most photos were of the spectacular scenery. As we came closer to our starting point we realised we could have driven into the gorge and skipped the walk completely. It was good exercise, but plenty of water and stops were needed.

Back to the caravan park to try to escape the heat in the (slightly) cooler camp kitchen, only to be inundated by small biting mosquitoes! We just can't win. At least the wind died down and we were able to cook dinner without battling the gas blowing out.

The forecast for Wednesday was 40 degrees, and winds of up to 40kph, so we said goodbye to Quorn, and after a very short stop at the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens - just in case the Chirruping Wedgebill was waiting to have its photo taken - we headed down the Eyre Peninsula. The wind persisted and the temperature reached 38 degrees at lunchtime, so a night in a cabin was in order. 

Meningie, Robe and The Coorong

Meningie

15 - 18 November 2015

We stopped at Ouyen for coffee and some supplies then headed off towards the South Australian border. We had thought to stay in Murrayville - the last town with a caravan park before the border, and arrived at lunch time, so stopped in the park for a picnic. Our aim was to use up all the fresh fruit and vegies before we crossed the border. We went and looked at the caravan park, considered the time, and decided to push on, knowing that we would lose our fresh food.

Just before the quarantine station coming into South Australia there is a small area where we pulled over and ate the remaining orange - a big, sweet, juicy Valencia. On to the station and we handed over a few onions, some potatoes, the last of the avocado, a small tomato, a couple of mushrooms and some spring onions. The friendly officer checked the fridge and then handed back the potatoes and onions - but everything else had to go. It is wise to run down your supplies before you cross into South Australia. Quarantine regulations are available at Quarantine - Domestic and it pays to be familiar with them when travelling.

Our aim was to get to the Coorong National Park, after a stay in a caravan park to refill the water tank and recharge the battery, so we chose Lake Albert Caravan Park in Meningie. What a good choice! Our site had uninterrupted views out to the lake - with heaps of birds to photograph. It seems there are lots of walks and drives so we decided to stay a little longer.

Pelicans roost across from our campsite.

After a windy night we set off in the morning along the lakeside walk towards the town - lots of stops along the way to photograph the birds and look at the interpretive signage. This is Ngarrandjeri country and their proud history is interwoven with that of early European settlers as well as environmental aspects of this area. It's a pleasant and easy walk into town.

This place was one of the highlights of our trip so far for me. My only complaint would be the lack of amenities at our end of the park. We regularly got our daily 10,000 steps, especially when having a quiet sundowner or two. We were camped under some flowering gum trees that were regularly visited by beautiful little Purple-crowned lorikeets. This was a new bird for me so I was thrilled, what a busy little bird though! So hard to photograph!

Whiskered tern.

Young White-faced herons

There are so many waterbirds around the Coorong it is such a pity there aren't more hides to view them from. Luckily we had lots to see at the park. Whiskered and Caspian terns, Pelicans, Egrets and Herons regularly flew past enhancing the already lovely view of the reed lined lake. Mick.

Purple-crowned lorikeet.

Purple-crowned lorikeet.

Common bronzewing.

Hoary-headed grebe.

We visited the tourist information centre (housed in the local craft business) but there was very little available - very disappointing. We had picked up more local information at the caravan park. After coffee and a banana and walnut muffin - yum - from the coffee shop, we returned to camp for lunch.

After lunch we headed off on the Lake Albert Loop - a scenic drive that takes you around Lake Albert. The road skirts the lake, quite close in parts, and takes you to The Narrows at Narrung where Lake Albert meets Lake Alexandrina. The 24 hour (free) vehicular ferry takes you across The Narrows to rejoin the road, passing Point Malcolm Lighthouse (the only inland lighthouse in Australia) and eventually  back to the Princes Highway.

Vehicular ferry across The Narrows.

The pink lake.

Australian shelduck.

Pink-eared ducks with some Grey teal.

In the morning we drove up past the school to the boardwalk and bird hide they had created. Inside the hide there were lots of information sheets created by the students. A great initiative, and they are so fortunate to have such a great resource just outside their back gate.

Wood Sandpipers. Another lifer for me!

Latham's snipe. This hide is a great place to catch a glimpse of this secretive wader.

We did some shopping at the local IGA supermarket, butcher and baker before going into the back blocks to the fish shop. We had visited the previous afternoon, but were told they had no fillets and to come back in the morning. We were in luck - fresh local mullet - caught during the night, for dinner. And it didn't disappoint.

We made more visits to likely bird spots - the boardwalk and the lake, and visited the National Parks Office which is not well advertised, but can be found off the Long Point Road. After a cool night we awoke to the news that the state would be experiencing extremely high temperatures and that most districts were subject to total fire bans. We had already booked our campsite online (as is required in South Australia) so we checked and discovered that the Coorong National Park was in a district with a total fire ban, and that even gas stoves couldn't be used. I phoned the National Parks Office and was able to move our booking back a couple of days.

We considered our options,  and checked the forecast maps. We had thought to stay on in Meningie - it's  a beautiful spot - but we discovered that Robe was not expected to have the heat so we decided to head there.


Robe

18 - 20 November 2015

We left Meningie, with the temperature forecast of mid-30's, and headed south. We drove along the Coorong. Our first stop was at Jack's Point Observatory - a short drive off the highway, then a 1km walk through the sand dunes to a shelter looking over the water and islands where the pelicans breed. We walked back along the beach to avoid the squadrons of mosquitoes we had encountered on the walk there. From there we drove on and called into the camping spot we would be returning to later in the week. It looked like a nice spot - but was very hot when we stopped for lunch there. It's only 5 km off the main road, along an unsealed, but good, road.

On through Kingston SE (there is also a Kingston on the Murray) and then to Robe. We don't understand why Robe is so much cooler than the rest of the state, but we were glad it was. Much of South Australia was experiencing temperatures up to the high 30's and in Robe it was mid 20's. We settled into a caravan park and went exploring. This small town is very prosperous thanks to the crayfishing industry. There are a number of beaches and lakes which make for good bird spotting. We drove passed the Lighthouse and Obelisk at Cape Dombrey and stopped at Pub Lake as well.

Rufous bristlebird not far from the park.

In the morning we stopped again at Pub Lake and a couple of friendly locals pointed Mick in the direction of an unpublicised bird hide at nearby Fox's Lake. We had coffee in town and then drove out to Little Dip Conservation Park for a look. This park is only about 12 km from Robe, along mostly sealed roads. Our first stop was at Long Gully Campground. It's a big grassy area, with toilets, but nothing much else. From there we drove on to Old Man Lake campground. This one looked much nicer - the open camping area is right on the lake. There was a picnic area with a table and chairs as well as a toilet. There is also a walk you can do which goes right around the lake. We didn't, but it is only a short walk.

Sharp-tailed sandpiper from the bird hide.

Common greenshank from the bird hide.

We spent the rest of the day catching up on shopping and errands in Robe, including much-needed haircuts for both of us. In the morning we packed up and headed off the relatively short (110km) distance down the road to the Coorong.


42 Mile Crossing - Coorong National Park

20 - 21 November 2015

Because we knew we didn't have far to go, we didn't hurry to get packed up, and only left the caravan park at about 10.00 am. We stopped for a walk down to the beach before hitting the road north. We stopped at the bakery in Kingston SE, and drove through the town, just because we could.

We continued on to 42 Mile Crossing in Coorong National Park. When we called here on Wednesday it had been about 32 degrees, but was a much more pleasant 18 degrees - at least it was pleasant if you could get out of the wind! We set up camp and were settled in by lunch time so had a lazy afternoon. We did venture along the walk towards the beach, but didn't go all the way. I had been expecting steep climbs over the dunes, but apart from the first section (and we guessed the last) it was actually a fairly easy walk. The path snaked its way along between the dunes. We stopped and turned back when we realised we were quite thirsty. You really do need to take water with you, even on cooler  days.

Beautiful firetail.

Little wattlebird.

As the afternoon wore on, the wind persisted and the temperature dropped. We had the distinct feeling we were in for a cold night, and we retreated into the camper to catch up on some blogging and photo editing.

The wind continued to howl throughout the night so we were glad we had only booked one night. As we packed up a number of groups of people started to arrive - another good reason to be leaving. Along the way back up the Coorong we drove down to Parnka Point for a look. There are a couple of nice camp spots (Pelican looked the best) but the only toilets are right down at the point.

We had planned a long day with Quorn our ultimate destination, but knew we wouldn't make it in one day, so headed for Clare as a reasonable overnight spot.