Paluma

1 -2 January 2015

We decided on a very short break to escape the enervating heat and humidity of wet-season Townsville. Our destination was "up the range" to Paluma for an overnighter. Situated on Mount Spec, Paluma is generally much cooler than the sun baked coastal plain at its feet. At the end of 22 k's of narrow winding road, the tiny village lies surrounded by lush rainforest and is often shrouded in mist.

Our first stop was at Little Crystal Creek - a popular swimming and picnic spot. Being New Year's Day there were lots of people about enjoying a dip in the cool rainforest creek. We had morning tea and Mick spotted a couple of Noisy Pittas hanging around the picnic area.

The single arch concrete bridge spanning the creek was constructed in the 1930's and is faced in natural stone.

The beautiful Noisy Pitta forages on the ground for snails and worms but this one has added picnic scraps to the menu.

Only an hour or so from Townsville, Paluma offers more than just a cool change. The high altitude rainforest is home to a great variety of birds not usually seen in the dry tropics below. Besides the Golden Bowerbird, documented below, Satin and Tooth-billed Bowerbirds are also found here. Crimson Rosella and Australian King Parrot aren't hard to find. Grey-headed Robin and Little Shrike-thrush are quite common. Early in the morning Chowchilla will be heard calling from rainforest gullies but finding them can be difficult. I have also seen Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher on the way up to the village. Mick.

Next we drove up to the top of the range and beyond towards the Paluma Dam. The unsealed road was in fairly good condition (and doesn't require a 4WD when it's dry - not sure about driving it in the wet). We travelled the 6.8km to Birthday Creek Falls where there is a decent sized parking area and a track down to the creek where you can swim. Half-way down the track is a known Golden Bowerbird bower. It has been there for many years, and we have been there before to photograph the bird but without any luck.

This time Mick was certain his efforts would be rewarded - and he was right. We had only been there a couple of minutes when the gorgeous creature obligingly posed for some photos at the bower and in the trees. At the start of the track we has met some fellow birders from Birdlife Townsville who were waiting for others in their group to arrive so we only stayed a short while at the bower, then walked down the the creek, but not all the way to the swimming hole. The track is reasonably easy, but downhill and then uphill on the way back, with a few steps. It was a hot day, and without our water bottles we did need a couple of rests.

My main aim this time was to photograph the Golden Bowerbird. On our first visit to the bower I only saw the bird flying in the distance and on the second visit did not see the bird at all. Third time lucky. The stunning male was actively decorating his bower with moss, twigs and flowers. This was a very special encounter for us. I should have concentrated on getting a great shot and tried different camera settings but instead I felt like we were intruding and hurried to leave the bird in peace. Low light is always difficult to contend with but a couple shots turned out OK. Mick.

Golden Bowerbird. Note the decoration of moss and flowers.

The male Golden Bowerbird posturing on a branch close to his bower.

Once back at the carpark we chatted with the club members - who were still waiting for the rest to arrive - then had a picnic lunch. There are no facilities there so it was a stand-up lunch at the back of the car. Just as we were finishing a few spots of rain started to fall. Fortunately the worst of the rain didn't start until we were back on the bitumen road to Paluma village. It absolutely poured down on the drive back.

If you don't like rain and mist, don't go to Paluma.

We had booked into the Rainforest Inn for the night, so had a coffee and checked in while we waited for the rain to ease. After a couple of hours it did stop so we headed off for the short walk to McClelland's Lookout and then along the road to the "H Track". Over came the rain again - oh well - we were in the rainforest. We got completely soaked by heavy, wind driven rain while hurrying back to our room. Mental notes were made about packing raincoats.

Later in the afternoon, the rain had stopped but the cloud came in - Paluma is sometimes known at "the village in the clouds" and it certainly lived up to its reputation!

The Rainforest Inn is only open from Thursday to Sunday and the restaurant only opens at night on Saturdays and only if there are bookings but we were able to have a meal provided to our room. There are no other dining options in Paluma at this time. The menu is small but the meals were well presented, tasty and reasonably priced.

After a hearty breakfast we packed up and set off once again for the "H Track" which runs along the alignment of a former logging track. This time the weather held out for us with only a few spots of rain along the way. This track is 1.3km long and starts near the Pottery and ends near the old Police Station. It is gravel, covered in leaf litter with a few uphill sections and some stairs. It is used by the Paluma Environmental Education Centre, so some seating is provided in a couple of outdoor classrooms.

Bracket Fungi stands out in the gloom of the rainforest.

Looking much better than it did a couple of years ago, the forest here is recovering from cyclone damage.

Back down the range with a short stop at Little Crystal Creek again and then home - back to the heat.

Blue Quandong fruit and leaves on the rocks. Fruit Pigeons and Cassowaries eat the fruit and spread the seeds.