Gluepot Reserve – Sitella Campground and Bellbird Campground

10 – 14 November 2024

We left Loxton and stopped in Waikerie to get groceries, and then drove down to the park for lunch by the river. Waikerie is a good place to stop before going on to Gluepot because of the facilities, easy parking and proximity to our final destination. After lunch we crossed the Murray River on one of the many ferries and continued on to the access road. A visit to Gluepot takes you through some private property before entering the reserve. This time, the roads were in fairly good condition and we made good time getting to the visitor centre where we checked in.

We nearly always end up adding a couple of days to our stay at Gluepot so this time we booked in for four nights at Sitella Campground. There are three campgrounds and we have stayed at all of them – each a little different but all fabulous. We found a nice spot, in the almost empty campground.

As always, Gluepot was all about the birds and Mick spent most mornings and afternoons out at one or other of the bird hides. Because of the size of the reserve and the distance to some of the bird hides and walks from Sitella we decided to spend two nights there, then move on to Bellbird for two nights. This would allow easy access to most of the best spots without too many long drives.

We moved campgrounds and set up at Bellbird, and again the campground was almost empty. The layouts of the campgrounds allow for a degree of privacy and accommodate caravans, camper trailers and tents. Most people who visit Gluepot are birders or other naturalists. It’s too far out of the way for people who are just looking for a cheap place to camp and the total ban on fires and dogs at all times also puts many off. We find this a bonus as we prefer the peace and solitude. Mick did meet a few other birders and lots of useful information was shared.

While we were at Bellbird campground we went out early one morning to the Malleefowl walk. This is an easy walk up and over vegetated sand dunes. There’s lots of good birding but we didn’t see one of these elusive megapodes this time. Last time we did the walk we did manage to catch a fleeting glimpse of one as it crossed the track, so we know they are there.

We watched a storm approach one afternoon

On our final morning we rose early and packed up to get to one of Mick’s favourite hides before the sun was too high in the sky. He wasn’t the only one with that idea, but there was still  room for him and his camera gear. While he photographed birds I made us a cuppa. Before leaving the reserve we drove back to the visitor centre where we purchased t-shirts for ourselves, with the promise we would never wear them at the same time.

From Gluepot we headed towards Adelaide on our way to Mount Compass.

Loxton

9 – 10 November 2024

We drove through the mallee and farmlands, stopping at a rest area near Lake Cullulleraine to have some lunch. We continued on across the border into South Australia, adjusting to another new time zone.

Many of the towns and campgrounds along the Murray River are still recovering for the flooding that occurred a couple of years ago and the caravan park at Loxton was no exception. Because we were only staying overnight, and because we needed to charge up batteries before heading into Gluepot, we opted for a powered site where we were able to stay hooked up.

There are heaps of spots to camp on the Murray River

We went for a walk down to the river and saw that a spot down in the lower section would be a good place to be, once all the infrastructure is restored. We planned to stop in Waikerie on our way to Gluepot to pick up supplies, so made a reasonably early start from Loxton in the morning.

 

Hattah-Kulkyne National Park – Lake Mournpall Campground

7 – 9 November 2024

We drove across the Murray River and into Victoria and stopped in Robinvale for morning tea and some grocery shopping before heading into Hattah-Kulkyne National Park. We had booked ahead to stay at Lake Mournpall Campground. We’ve stayed at Lake Hattah and Lake Mournpall, but have decided we like Lake Mournpall best for its proximity to some of the best tracks for birding.

There are lots of campsites around the lake and we chose one that had a view of the water as well as a well placed fire pit. It was also only a short walk to the toilets. We had some shade and a big open space to catch some solar to recharge the batteries.

We went for a drive late in the afternoon to re-acquaint ourselves with the birding spots, and also to check out the condition of the tracks. We had some firewood that we had been carrying around for some time (since our trip to Cape York) so were keen to use it up. We figured that this would be our last chance as we were entering fire ban season in Victoria. With light winds and a cool night it was the ideal time to have a fire – just because we could.

It was the perfect night to have a fire

Mick went out early both mornings and also in the late afternoon chasing a number of birds he was hoping to find, and we went for a couple of walks by the lake. There was no-one camped close to where we were for most of our time there, with most other campers setting up further around the lake. This made for a very peaceful and relaxing time.

We didn’t feel the need to head off too early, so packed up once Mick was back from his early morning birding expedition, and headed towards South Australia. We planned to visit Gluepot Reserve in the Riverland, but would need an overnighter along the way. We chose Loxton just because we’d never stayed there before.

Balranald

4 – 7 November 2024

We called ahead to the caravan park in Balranald and booked a powered site for the night, followed by a cabin for the next two nights when the temperature was expected to reach 40 degrees. We were only travelling a short distance so stayed in the national park campsite until after morning tea. We were grateful that we were able to check into the caravan park early so were set up there before lunch time.

Our site in the caravan park was a drive-through so we were able to stay hitched up. It was only a short walk to the shops and the park was right on the river so there was no need to drive anywhere. There are walking tracks along the river so we did a bit of exploring in the afternoon and the following morning.

Balranald sits on the Murrumbidgee River

Our cabin was scheduled to be cleaned first in the morning and we were able to move in as soon as it was ready. The temperature was already starting to rise so we were glad to have the airconditioning, as well as a nice view of the river. The cabin was basic but it did the job and kept us out of the oppressive heat for a couple of days, and away from the crowds taking advantage of the Victorian public holiday.

While we were in Balranald we planned and booked our next national park stay – back to Hattah-Kulkyne which is another favourite.

Yanga National Park – Mamanga Campground

2 – 4 November 2024

I’d had Yanga National Park on the “possible” list many times but we never seemed to be in a position to go and stay there, so we were hopeful we could do that this time. We needed some supplies so drove into Balranald where we visited to local IGA supermarket, then drove the 10 minutes back to Yanga NP. Campground bookings are essential but we had read that Telstra service was good in the campground so we took the chance and headed in.

We’d been watching the weather and there was a very windy day forecast for the following day, and a day of extreme heat in a few days’ time, so we needed to be mindful of that when making our decisions.

We drove into Mamanga Campground and found a great spot right on the Murrumbidgee River. Camping is free, but you do need to book and pay a $6 booking fee – no matter how long you want to stay. With this in mind we booked for two nights and hoped that the wind wouldn’t be too bad.

Although there was some wind during the next day, it was never bad enough to stop us cooking and enjoying this fabulous spot. It was just so nice sitting on the banks of the river watching the water. We went for a couple of short walks around, and Mick took some photos of the local birds – of course.

Sunset over the Murrumbidgee River

We had been prepared to leave Mamanga if the wind had made things difficult, but there was no need so we stayed for the two nights we had booked. Our next challenge was finding somewhere to stay during a heatwave, with the Melbourne Cup public holiday coming up. We knew continuing on towards the Murray River would be pointless so we made the decision to stay for a few days in Balranald.

Hay

1 – 2 November 2024

We had been up since just on sunrise and had been out birding until 10:00am so we weren’t keen on a long drive from Lake Cargelligo. We decided to head off and stop around lunch time. We were eventually going to Gluepot Reserve in South Australia so had a general direction, but again no firm plans. We stopped briefly in Rankin Springs then continued on to Hay.

We decided Hay would do for an overnighter and we found a caravan park on the Murrumbidgee River where there was plenty of room to stay hooked up. With no rain forecast we were also able to set up without bothering with the awning. We did some washing and had a restful afternoon. The caravan park was nothing special, but was more than adequate for our needs.

The next morning we were able to get away quickly and were on our way towards Balranald.

Hay!

Lake Cargelligo

30 October – 1 November

We set off from Eumungerie and drove through Narromine then on to Condobolin where we had lunch in a park by the Lachlan River. From there we continued on to Lake Cargelligo. We headed to the caravan park where we found the office closed, but a sign inviting guests to choose a site and return to check in later in the day. We found a nice unpowered spot with some shade, but enough open space to set up the solar panels, and just across the way from our friends.

We arranged to meet for drinks later in the afternoon and went for a drive to a bird hide near the lake. There were lots of photo opportunities so we ended up spending quite a bit of time there, and also made a return visit.

Back at the caravan park, we had drinks with Rob and Cheryl and were also joined by some other travellers who were camped just near us. We hung around in the morning until our friends had left, and set off for another local birding spot along the road near the lake. That one wasn’t as successful as we had hoped. 

We decided that we’d only stay for two nights so made a plan to attempt an early morning run out to another “hot spot” known locally as “chat alley”. We were confident we could get out and back in plenty of time to pack up and check out of the caravan park at the required time. The plan was a good one, but the birding wasn’t so great. We did, however, have a close encounter with a fox that showed an unusual interest in the car, and then followed Mick around for quite a while.

We didn't expect to see a curious fox
while we were out birding

When we returned to town we drove down to the lake for a look before gooing back to the caravan park, packing up and setting off once again.